Heater output

[Adventures]

My heater stopped working today, for about 2 hours. Then after starting the car again it worked!..
It has been a bit vague on occasion up to now. Sometimes seeming to take a long time to get going and others as expected. But today after a 2 hour drive it was still blowing cold. I stopped and picked up a trailer and then as if by magic it worked again. I had tried auto mode and also playing with the vent settings. Nothing worked.
I am wondering if there is a vent sticking somewhere or whether the car ‘thought’ it was hot and so was trying to cool down. I‘ll see what the dealer says.
Anyone had similar.

My heater did not work at all until I fill up the cooling system to the correct value and get the software update. Now it is heater model so called "polar storm".

 

[James]

Any further thoughts / updates on this? As the mornings get colder the low output of the heater is becoming more apparent - no warm air in the cab until oil temp shown at 75 degrees in the Offroad menu.

If you turn the ac off, and dont use auto climate, but just put the heater on and choose a fan speed, is it still poor?
those settings should work well. If not, talk to agent would be my suggestion.

ac can also be low on gas or have a leak initially From factory.

but in manual, your car should be capable of significant heating, and powerful cooling.

the performance of auto mode is definitely something many/most or possibly all cars struggle with.

 

[JOB]

If you turn the ac off, and dont use auto climate, but just put the heater on and choose a fan speed, is it still poor?
those settings should work well. If not, talk to agent would be my suggestion.

ac can also be low on gas or have a leak initially From factory.

but in manual, your car should be capable of significant heating, and powerful cooling.

the performance of auto mode is definitely something many/most or possibly all cars struggle with.

Unfortunately yes, still the same however the controls are configured.

The car had its AC re-gassed when it went for the software update as that was crap in summer. Now it’s below 10 degrees near enough all the time I can’t really test the AC, but the heater is not working effectively.

My gut feeling is that the interior temp sensor doesn’t work / is badly positioned.

 

[Bmac]

I’m told it’s a known fault and Ineos are working on a resolution. My heater doesn’t warm up for 15 minutes. Also the ducting is wrong as the drivers side vent always blows cold.

 

[Tom D]

I’m really noticing it now the weather has gotten colder. it has a mind of its own. Some journeys it works perfectly, other times its blowing hot out of one vent and cold out of another. Can’t get anything to come out of the screen vent unless I hit the de-mist button which puts the fan on full blast. One journey it will only blow cold and then the next it will work perfectly. I think it might be a software issue. Whatever controls the direction flaps in the heater sometimes just won‘t play ball.

 

[Gwynne]

Having absolutely same the same situation with mine (diesel).

ditto - poor heating in a diesel

 

[Michael Brindley]

ditto - poor heating in a diesel

Had fault with air con since day 1.Went in last week to have new air con pipe fitted poor mechanic spent 4hrs lying on engine to get to at back off engine,since then coolant was drained and refilled heater now hot but not much control

 

[bemax]

Just check the level of fluid in the reservoirs. It seems to be quite common that they haven't been filled up enough in the factory. Have a look at post #21!

 

[Skydance]

Just check the level of fluid in the reservoirs. It seems to be quite common that they haven't been filled up enough in the factory. Have a look at post #21!

Could you kindly explain how to check. I’ve opened the bonnet and it’s the two black reservoirs at the back on each side. One with a blue top. I can’t see how full they are as I can’t get my head under the bonnet enough. Is there any easier way such as a level indicator somewhere. I see on one side green fluorescent fluid upto half way on one side but not on the other. Thank you.

 

[Lollo050968]

Could you kindly explain how to check. I’ve opened the bonnet and it’s the two black reservoirs at the back on each side. One with a blue top. I can’t see how full they are as I can’t get my head under the bonnet enough. Is there any easier way such as a level indicator somewhere. I see on one side green fluorescent fluid upto half way on one side but not on the other. Thank you.

You can open the bonnet 90degree, and than it’s possible to look into the reservoir with blue cap. On the reservoir is shown the level for min./max. It is a plastic „lip“, the upper one is for max….

 

[Adventures]

Could you kindly explain how to check. I’ve opened the bonnet and it’s the two black reservoirs at the back on each side. One with a blue top. I can’t see how full they are as I can’t get my head under the bonnet enough. Is there any easier way such as a level indicator somewhere. I see on one side green fluorescent fluid upto half way on one side but not on the other. Thank you.

Hello Skydance,
at first: Did you have the software update? It helps also.
second: Open the bonnet up to the second position (for this take out the "holding stick" from its original position and fix it in the hole near the black reservoir with the blue top and the black metal sheet at the middle of the bonnet on the right side)
third: Now you can have a view inside the reservoir. There is an indicator inside the reservoir. (also described in the manual)

Good luck ;-)

 

[Skydance]

Hello Skydance,
at first: Did you have the software update? It helps also.
second: Open the bonnet up to the second position (for this take out the "holding stick" from its original position and fix it in the hole near the black reservoir with the blue top and the black metal sheet at the middle of the bonnet on the right side)
third: Now you can have a view inside the reservoir. There is an indicator inside the reservoir. (also described in the manual)

Good luck ;-)

Thank you much appreciated. Was wondering how without getting my head trapped.

 

[Ever Pragmatic]

Just check the level of fluid in the reservoirs. It seems to be quite common that they haven't been filled up enough in the factory. Have a look at post #21

I topped my levels up at the weekend due to the heating being a bit feeble. Dealer told me to do it but it does seem to be a common issue.

i did not that when you put it on “defrost“ it does get hot, but only for the window vents. Once you press auto, it reverts to tepid at best. I’d guess it’s c 18/19° at most when I like it tropical in cold weather.. heated seats are the life saver.

I’ve not run it since I topped both tanks (black and blue lidded).

 

[JOB]

I topped my levels up at the weekend due to the heating being a bit feeble. Dealer told me to do it but it does seem to be a common issue.

i did not that when you put it on “defrost“ it does get hot, but only for the window vents. Once you press auto, it reverts to tepid at best. I’d guess it’s c 18/19° at most when I like it tropical in cold weather.. heated seats are the life saver.

I’ve not run it since I topped both tanks (black and blue lidded).

What did you use for topping up? BMW Coolant? Filling with water I would worry about a frost issue.

 

[Highwayman]

My car is at the agent to sort a few issues. It’s been there for ten days now and from a phone call this afternoon, they think they have found the root cause.

Long story short, one of the symptoms I have had is a poorly functioning heater. All the coolant fluid levels are normal (both cooling systems) and has never needed additional top ups. However, on investigation, despite the normal fluid levels and normal engine temperature readings, they have noticed cold spots on the radiator. It appears I have an air-lock somewhere, and have likely had it since new (now on 8,500 miles).

By coincidence, a technical bulletin has apparently been released today by INEOS with this exact issue. It seems many cars are being delivered with an airlock in the cooling system. (They are vacuum filled at the factory and not bled for air afterwards.) Although this is not causing the engine to overheat, or worse, it is leading to the symptoms many of us have experienced with the poor heater. The bulletin outlines a complex automated procedure the dealers need to follow to properly bleed the system. It involves holding down the accelerator pedal, then the brake pedal with the ignition on, the releasing both and starting the car whilst holding the brake pedal. This then starts an automated procedure in the ECU to run through a bleed cycle and takes circa 11 minutes. (Sorry - can’t be more specific as I have not seen the bulletin, just a very helpful explanation by my dealer.)

If you are having the issues with the heater not working, it may be worth a call to your dealer to get this checked out.

They are going to try and bleed mine tomorrow, as it needs to be carried out on a cold engine for the procedure to kick in.

 

[Gwynne]

My car is at the agent to sort a few issues. It’s been there for ten days now and from a phone call this afternoon, they think they have found the root cause.

Long story short, one of the symptoms I have had is a poorly functioning heater. All the coolant fluid levels are normal (both cooling systems) and has never needed additional top ups. However, on investigation, despite the normal fluid levels and normal engine temperature readings, they have noticed cold spots on the radiator. It appears I have an air-lock somewhere, and have likely had it since new (now on 8,500 miles).

By coincidence, a technical bulletin has apparently been released today by INEOS with this exact issue. It seems many cars are being delivered with an airlock in the cooling system. (They are vacuum filled at the factory and not bled for air afterwards.) Although this is not causing the engine to overheat, or worse, it is leading to the symptoms many of us have experienced with the poor heater. The bulletin outlines a complex automated procedure the dealers need to follow to properly bleed the system. It involves holding down the accelerator pedal, then the brake pedal with the ignition on, the releasing both and starting the car whilst holding the brake pedal. This then starts an automated procedure in the ECU to run through a bleed cycle and takes circa 11 minutes. (Sorry - can’t be more specific as I have not seen the bulletin, just a very helpful explanation by my dealer.)

If you are having the issues with the heater not working, it may be worth a call to your dealer to get this checked out.

They are going to try and bleed mine tomorrow, as it needs to be carried out on a cold engine for the procedure to kick in.

Thanks and very helpful. Do let us know if this was indeed the cause of the poor heater and that the solution works

 

[Krabby]

Thank you for the update! The whole heat thing is certainly of interest.

 

[[ Adam ]]

Automotive heating 101: Burp the coolant

 

[Highwayman]

My car is at the agent to sort a few issues. It’s been there for ten days now and from a phone call this afternoon, they think they have found the root cause.

Long story short, one of the symptoms I have had is a poorly functioning heater. All the coolant fluid levels are normal (both cooling systems) and has never needed additional top ups. However, on investigation, despite the normal fluid levels and normal engine temperature readings, they have noticed cold spots on the radiator. It appears I have an air-lock somewhere, and have likely had it since new (now on 8,500 miles).

By coincidence, a technical bulletin has apparently been released today by INEOS with this exact issue. It seems many cars are being delivered with an airlock in the cooling system. (They are vacuum filled at the factory and not bled for air afterwards.) Although this is not causing the engine to overheat, or worse, it is leading to the symptoms many of us have experienced with the poor heater. The bulletin outlines a complex automated procedure the dealers need to follow to properly bleed the system. It involves holding down the accelerator pedal, then the brake pedal with the ignition on, the releasing both and starting the car whilst holding the brake pedal. This then starts an automated procedure in the ECU to run through a bleed cycle and takes circa 11 minutes. (Sorry - can’t be more specific as I have not seen the bulletin, just a very helpful explanation by my dealer.)

If you are having the issues with the heater not working, it may be worth a call to your dealer to get this checked out.

They are going to try and bleed mine tomorrow, as it needs to be carried out on a cold engine for the procedure to kick in.

As a follow up to my post a few days ago, I collect my car tomorrow, and am assured it is fully resolved.

The airlock in the cooling system was the cause of the poor heater function. Now that the airlock has been cleared, the heater is working as we would all expect. My agent has been road testing my car for several days trying to isolate another issue, so I know it's well tested. Fantastic service from Heritage Gloucester, including update calls each evening after each test drive home.

Feedback from the agent is that since identifying the issue on mine, they have identified six others with the same air lock. He even found an air lock on one car where the heater was working OK.

To test for the airlock, when you engine is at normal operating temperature, switch it off. Then feel the bottom hose to the radiator and see how it feels in comaprison to the top hose - by hand they both should feel the same. (Mine was completely cold). Additionally, feel the radiator at the bottom (again, mine was completely cold) and then see how far you can get up the radiator before it starts to get warm (mine was half way up). Obviously if you have a proper thermometer, that would be better.

Any of these symptoms, go see your agent .............

My interest was piqued with this air lock issue and so I resorted to YouTube and searched for coolant air locks on BMW engines. Sure enough, there are many videos detailing the inbuilt bleed procedure for cars equipped with electric water pumps. Using this procedure, bleeding is (apparently) simple. Not using it however, the engines are (apparently) very difficult to bleed. My supplying agent is a BMW dealer, so I would have hoped this would have been something they would have checked as part of the PDI process, but clearly not. Leaves me speechless to be honest, but just re-inforces why I switched to Heritage Gloucester - thanks again guys.

 

[JOB]

As a follow up to my post a few days ago, I collect my car tomorrow, and am assured it is fully resolved.

The airlock in the cooling system was the cause of the poor heater function. Now that the airlock has been cleared, the heater is working as we would all expect. My agent has been road testing my car for several days trying to isolate another issue, so I know it's well tested. Fantastic service from Heritage Gloucester, including update calls each evening after each test drive home.

Feedback from the agent is that since identifying the issue on mine, they have identified six others with the same air lock. He even found an air lock on one car where the heater was working OK.

To test for the airlock, when you engine is at normal operating temperature, switch it off. Then feel the bottom hose to the radiator and see how it feels in comaprison to the top hose - by hand they both should feel the same. (Mine was completely cold). Additionally, feel the radiator at the bottom (again, mine was completely cold) and then see how far you can get up the radiator before it starts to get warm (mine was half way up). Obviously if you have a proper thermometer, that would be better.

Any of these symptoms, go see your agent .............

My interest was piqued with this air lock issue and so I resorted to YouTube and searched for coolant air locks on BMW engines. Sure enough, there are many videos detailing the inbuilt bleed procedure for cars equipped with electric water pumps. Using this procedure, bleeding is (apparently) simple. Not using it however, the engines are (apparently) very difficult to bleed. My supplying agent is a BMW dealer, so I would have hoped this would have been something they would have checked as part of the PDI process, but clearly not. Leaves me speechless to be honest, but just re-inforces why I switched to Heritage Gloucester - thanks again guys.

Ours is back in with Sandicliffe Nottingham for the same issue - I have armed them with the info you have provided which has been a great help.

Other snags on its second visit to the dealer () are malfunctioning window switch illumination, sticking door buttons and the front door foot wash waterfall fix.

This time I have been loaned another Grenadier at least, even if it is petrol and liveried as a mobile billboard!