The final picture does not display. Maybe it fell over ?Quite a good dynamic loading test:
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My experience with bike tubes (yes, it is extensive) is that they degrade quickly when exposed to the elements. So it will separate between you foot/spacer, spacer/outer-vertical-gutter, but not likely beneath the spacer.Browsed the DIY store today any might try these as spacers to move the mount feet closer to the car.
Glued one layer of rubber below. Packed the whole thing into a bike tube.
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Might do the trick?!
I believe this is user-error, as that foot is dual-acting. As you turn the knob to tension the gutter foot, it also locks the foot to the crossbar. Looks like the foot/crossbar position was not correct when they cranked the knob!Seen on Reddit - the pics below show the negative impact of attaching gutter mounts too close to the outside edge of the gutter (and not dialing in the placement of the mount on the cross bar correctly). Do any current owners have the Rhino Cross Bars they could show off so we could see how they are mounted?
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Thanks. I moved on and work on oak pieces whilst I try to get things 3D printed in time.My experience with bike tubes (yes, it is extensive) is that they degrade quickly when exposed to the elements. So it will separate between you foot/spacer, spacer/outer-vertical-gutter, but not likely beneath the spacer.
Can you source EPDM sheet?
I am not impressed by 90-degree mounting feet. I have experienced similar feet fail, three feet per side on a full length rack. I began using one piece racks (fully welded, not modular) with 4+ feet per side and no failures to date (20+ years). These are used on relatively flimsy gutters of a LR D1, RRC, and my Series 109.Uuh.
That is the worst I have seen.
It is all the way out there with max lever.
And also quite narrow mounts.
I getting looking into getting some patted inox inlays (D) done that move the mounts inwards towards the car for less lever and stress.
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Spacer B to move inwards. Spacer C to keep in place and protect car paint. Spacer A being spacer B plus some extra to keep bracket vertical.
I might also just buy 3 of the Rhino crossbars for this summer and wait for more reports from the field before building the larger setup. But they seem not coming in soon, so might be too late for this years trip.
I think that's a critical design feature for the best.Another modification, you could add tabs and bolts to tension the clamp as shown below. This mitigates loosening of the clamps adjustment slot, while still allowing for installation adjustability.
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Thanks for sharing your experience. Not sure what "tabs and bolts" translates to though.I am not impressed by 90-degree mounting feet. I have experienced similar feet fail, three feet per side on a full length rack. I began using one piece racks (fully welded, not modular) with 4+ feet per side and no failures to date (20+ years). These are used on relatively flimsy gutters of a LR D1, RRC, and my Series 109.
It appears that your DOT 200 foot has an angle design for the transition from vertical to horizontal, which is far better than Frontrunner. I understand your desire for flexibility and DIY, so if you are satisfied with the lateral stiffness of these mounts, I would increase the number of feet on each side of the vehicle. If you planned on two feet per side, increase that to four, or more! Another modification, you could add tabs and bolts to tension the clamp as shown below. This mitigates loosening of the clamps adjustment slot, while still allowing for installation adjustability.
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For my Grenadier I ordered the full length Rhino because I like the one piece side-panel/foot design. Granted I have not seen this in person, but it appears to be the best sight-unseen option, and possibly the best design to distribute loads over the four feet. For utility I need a full length rack. I do not anticipate exceeding the maximum roof load rating, but I will carry bulky items like a 17-foot canoe. While the canoe only weights 70lbs is puts enormous side loads on poorly constructed racks. Should be a good test for Rhino...
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Dave - you might also want to take a look at the rack from LeTech, shown in this video from approx 57:00 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gkm4LHXPCK8&t=11sThose gutters flexing is really starting to make the Black Sheep product look more and more like my choice.
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That looks fantastic.Dave - you might also want to take a look at the rack from LeTech, shown in this video from approx 57:00 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gkm4LHXPCK8&t=11s
Their website should be up-and-running with full product details, including the alternative twin LED lightbar, and prices in 4 weeks time.That looks fantastic.
The way it is finished off and works with the Safari windows is great.
I would like to see the roof light bar setup rather than the round lights.
I can't find anything on their website
Trust the Germans to come up with fantastic products.
That includes the Germans from Switzerland of course
Looks sharp. It does cover up the tie down bars though.Dave - you might also want to take a look at the rack from LeTech, shown in this video from approx 57:00 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gkm4LHXPCK8&t=11s
Nice to see the roof-rails and rubber strips of the original design put to use.Those gutters flexing is really starting to make the Black Sheep product look more and more like my choice.
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Yes, I like the Black Sheep using the tie down rails for support rather than the LeTech gutter mount, but the LeTech looks neater.Looks sharp. It does cover up the tie down bars though.
Looks sharp. It does cover up the tie down bars though.
Yes it does cover the tie down bars, but there's still plenty of secure lashing points available.Looks sharp. It does cover up the tie down bars though.
Potentially a lot less wind noise with the LeTech unit being a bit more aerodynamic too!Yes, I like the Black Sheep using the tie down rails for support rather than the LeTech gutter mount, but the LeTech looks neater.
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