GPS and external antenna

[CrazyOldMan]

So what if I ran a lead line from the cable on the side somehow (???) over to the center console side - not sure what the wire gauge is I would need for that - and then mount a 12v socket there? Just leave the stock line that comes with the Tread as-is? Of course, all in secret much later when my wife is in a better mood or away from home.

 

[anand]

So what if I ran a lead line from the cable on the side somehow (???) over to the center console side - not sure what the wire gauge is I would need for that - and then mount a 12v socket there? Just leave the stock line that comes with the Tread as-is? Of course, all in secret much later when my wife is in a better mood or away from home.

If all you're powering is the tread, 18AWG is fine; if you want to be able to use other devices up to the 10A that the footwell circuits can provide, 16AWG should be fine (assuming the run is <6ft from where you connect to the footwell to where you add a 12v socket)

 

[CrazyOldMan]

If all you're powering is the tread, 18AWG is fine; if you want to be able to use other devices up to the 10A that the footwell circuits can provide, 16AWG should be fine (assuming the run is <6ft from where you connect to the footwell to where you add a 12v socket)

Good point - maybe a marine socket w both 12v and a couple of USB adapters - something like this

Flip Pro Multi - Dual USB-C & 12V Power Socket

Our Scanstrut Flip Pro Duo is the absolute best combo port we've seen. Super nice spring loaded lid, dual voltage, and in stock. Get yours today!

newwiremarine.com

 

[parb]

That hardwire cable is a bit expensive.... Even if it stabilizes power at 12v it's a bit spendy.

Does anyone know how much the current draw is on the 10" unit? I would hook it up to the passenger side int circuit but I have my weBoost and Midland gmrs on that circuit, starting to worry about getting close to the max load on the circuit.

Can the claw be mounted to the passenger side grab handle?

 

[CrazyOldMan]

That hardwire cable is a bit expensive.... Even if it stabilizes power at 12v it's a bit spendy.

Does anyone know how much the current draw is on the 10" unit? I would hook it up to the passenger side int circuit but I have my weBoost and Midland gmrs on that circuit, starting to worry about getting close to the max load on the circuit.

Can the claw be mounted to the passenger side grab handle?

What do you have running off the driver’s side INT circuit? I’m kind of starting to think of running both sides (INT 1 and INT 2) over to the center (still no idea how I’m going to do that, but I’ll take the lead from anand on the 16 awg line), with some sort of marine class dual socket on each side of the center stack - 12v and USB-c. I’ll have to start popping panels to see how the line would run unless one of you have already run it across on either or both sides. Again, will have to be in secret and after my wife loses a little bit of her Grenadier resentment.

 

[parb]

on the right (passenger side) i have the weboost cell phone booster, the midland 50W GMRS radio and a USB-C and USB-A socket connected to the int 10A circuit (i think that is int 2).

I pulled one wire from the passenger side to under the rear seat where i put the weboost and the gmrs unit. I pulled a wire from the passenger side to an USB outlet that i hid under the passenger footwell. I snaked a USB cable from the central instrument cluster to the USB-C outlet for my powered QI compatible cradle that i mounted under the screen on the center console.

The wire from the drivers side is snaked down the interior of the car until the rear bumper. It controls a relay that i use to turn on the rear leitner chase lights. Its the only thing i have on that circuit.

 

[CrazyOldMan]

on the right (passenger side) i have the weboost cell phone booster, the midland 50W GMRS radio and a USB-C and USB-A socket connected to the int 10A circuit (i think that is int 2).

I pulled one wire from the passenger side to under the rear seat where i put the weboost and the gmrs unit. I pulled a wire from the passenger side to an USB outlet that i hid under the passenger footwell. I snaked a USB cable from the central instrument cluster to the USB-C outlet for my powered QI compatible cradle that i mounted under the screen on the center console.

The wire from the drivers side is snaked down the interior of the car until the rear bumper. It controls a relay that i use to turn on the rear leitner chase lights. Its the only thing i have on that circuit.

So what if you split the driver’s side that you have running the chase lights - put in a junction and take one over to the central console for the Tread and one to the back for your chase lights?

 

[parb]

So what if you split the driver’s side that you have running the chase lights - put in a junction and take one over to the central console for the Tread and one to the back for your chase lights?

You could do that but I don't love the idea of having to turn on the chase lights to use/charge the thread. I would rather pull power from the battery under the rear seat to the center console and hook up a relay on that which is controlled by the passenger footwell power (eg int 2) so one of the overhead switches control power to all my interior electronics.

 

[CrazyOldMan]

You could do that but I don't love the idea of having to turn on the chase lights to use/charge the thread. I would rather pull power from the battery under the rear seat to the center console and hook up a relay on that which is controlled by the passenger footwell power (eg int 2) so one of the overhead switches control power to all my interior electronics.

Got it - yeah, you might be overloading that line

 

[CrazyOldMan]

All right, you clowns - you’ve had your laugh. Congratulations. This ENTIRE TIME I just assumed the 12v socket in the console was a dud, since I didn’t order the “smoker’s pack” - so would need to do SOMETHING to get power to the Garmin unit up front. I even asked the manager at the IG dealer THIS AFTERNOON when I picked it up (have been out of town for this entire thread, and left it with the dealer for an oil change and to fix the door handle). “Yep,” he says, “that socket isn’t hot since you didn’t order the smoker’s pack, but let me ask our rep about what it would take to wire it up. Multiple customers have asked about that option.” So tonight I get home and check it - and it’s hot. I will still EVENTUALLY open up more sockets from the INT lines, but immediate problem solved with the EXISTING HOT 12v SOCKET IN THE CONSOLE. And since I’m not running a refrigerator in back and just plan to use the NATO plug / ARB twin mounted in the spare, I can use the rear 12v for the WeBoost. Good grief - you guys are something else. You’ll break out a drill and a soldering gun at the drop of the hat.

 

[anand]

All right, you clowns - you’ve had your laugh. Congratulations. This ENTIRE TIME I just assumed the 12v socket in the console was a dud, since I didn’t order the “smoker’s pack” - so would need to do SOMETHING to get power to the Garmin unit up front. I even asked the manager at the IG dealer THIS AFTERNOON when I picked it up (have been out of town for this entire thread, and left it with the dealer for an oil change and to fix the door handle). “Yep,” he says, “that socket isn’t hot since you didn’t order the smoker’s pack, but let me ask our rep about what it would take to wire it up. Multiple customers have asked about that option.” So tonight I get home and check it - and it’s hot. I will still EVENTUALLY open up more sockets from the INT lines, but immediate problem solved with the EXISTING HOT 12v SOCKET IN THE CONSOLE. And since I’m not running a refrigerator in back and just plan to use the NATO plug / ARB twin mounted in the spare, I can use the rear 12v for the WeBoost. Good grief - you guys are something else. You’ll break out a drill and a soldering gun at the drop of the hat.

Go kick your dealer and tell him to learn the simple intricacies of the vehicle he sells....

 

[CrazyOldMan]

Go kick your dealer and tell him to learn the simple intricacies of the vehicle he sells....

Well, first of all, I suppose all of you laughing at me is good medicine for my soul - I deserve it. So stupid not to have even checked. Secondly, yeah, this is more than a little disturbing that dealers don’t know as much about it as you would expect. I THINK, in the US market, there might be some differences. Idaho, Colorado, Utah IG dealers - those markets seem like they know what they’re doing, which in some ways isn’t a surprise. Camping, overlanding, and “truck culture” is a big part of life in those markets. It always surprises me when I go back to visit family in Boise - the OG Land Cruisers, modded out old Defenders and FJ’s - those guys are ready to party, and nobody is worried about their PPC wrap or sound system (other than the Californians who are visiting their places in McCall or Sun Valley). Other markets, maybe they’re just selling tricked out mall crawlers. I also noticed a difference interacting with the IG dealers - Boise’s parts guy has stock, knows what customers are doing, knows how it gets done. Easy. It’s just not uniform across the dealer network. At all.

 

[CrazyOldMan]

Oh BTW - on the original question of the best way to run additional access points off the INT 1/2 lines, Rovie sent me a BRILLIANT write-up and pictures, adding some more detail to what he posted last year. Maybe he could be induced to publish that for everyone.

 

[rovie]

So what if I ran a lead line from the cable on the side somehow (???) over to the center console side - not sure what the wire gauge is I would need for that - and then mount a 12v socket there? Just leave the stock line that comes with the Tread as-is? Of course, all in secret much later when my wife is in a better mood or away from home.

Hi @CrazyOldMan Perhaps the mood is better now or the wife is actually not in at home.

Perhaps this will help you with your considerations: https://www.theineosforum.com/threa...footwell-power-point.12412359/post-1333197181

 

[CrazyOldMan]

Actually, the wife is NOT home so I am in the garage dealing with the rattling camp table! Thank so much, BTW - your write-up is truly fantastic. I think a ton of owners will appreciate it.

 

[Michael_in_Baja]

I’m thinking about getting the Garmin Tread and mounting it to the Owl accessory rail (picture attached). HOWEVER, since it wouldn’t be on the dash, I’m wondering if this would weaken either the GPS or InReach performance, and whether I need to get external signal boosters (also picture attached). Owl tech support says they don’t need the external antennae, but would be curious to hear from you guys. And if you did add it, where did/would you run the cables? If I use that accessory rail, the Tread is right in the middle of the control panel, so I would need a clean routing solution to run the lines out.

I have had similar units mounted near or adjacent to the dash and they were fine.