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Eibach sway bars???

parb

Grenadier Owner
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Location
Silicon Valley, CA, USA
Anyone tried them out yet?
I find my antisway isn't as great as they could be. Anyone tried the new set from eibach yet?
 
Begs the question though: When do the modifications end and what is good enough?
Some people are compulsive modifiers. And that helps the economy.
I'm not easily swayed by advertising nor FOMO. I am bad for business ;)
Anyway what do these aftymarky swaybars promise?
 
Driving down to Cornwall on A30, Devon/Cornwall border and we saw a Smart car (original 2 seat upright thing) on other side of road, sadly no pictures. Had big ish off road tyres and I'm guessing a suspension lift.
Now that is too much modification. Kept me laughing all week.
 
If these are a bit stiffer I would be very interested. I feel the stock parts are woefully undersized. Combine this with a sway bar disconnect of your choice and get best of both worlds. Hopefully someone has some info, otherwise I will have to be the $550 Guinea pig.
 
If these are a bit stiffer I would be very interested. I feel the stock parts are woefully undersized. Combine this with a sway bar disconnect of your choice and get best of both worlds. Hopefully someone has some info, otherwise I will have to be the $550 Guinea pig.
Love the gold wheels on black, reminds me of JPS specials
 
Not me.

Begs the question though: When do the modifications end and what is good enough?
Peugeot 206
(yes, I've posted this before...)
I was driving on the highway with 2 adults in the car and probably 200kg in the trunk and 100kg on the roof, including the roof rack. I find that when driving at 65mph, or about 30m/sec for the metric crew 😀 that evading something laying on the asphalt has the effect of steering what feels a bit like a boat. It sways from side to side. Reminds me a lot of my 1972 GMC Jimmy...

I think it's because I have a decent load on the car with roof rack and the 270 awning. I didn't notice the so much before I put in the awning but it was there to a lesser extent. With the awning is pronounced.

I Have a strong suspicion that the stock sway bars are too soft, but I don't know if the eibach are stiffer. So I'm seeking feedback from the crowd. I know im going to change to King shocks because the stock shocks just doesn't absorb the washboard we have in the US West Coast high desert roads well enough. I'm at 11,000 miles and that has become very clear to me. But I'm considering changing the sway bar at the same time.

Any advice?
 
I was driving on the highway with 2 adults in the car and probably 200kg in the trunk and 100kg on the roof, including the roof rack. I find that when driving at 65mph, or about 30m/sec for the metric crew 😀 that evading something laying on the asphalt has the effect of steering what feels a bit like a boat. It sways from side to side. Reminds me a lot of my 1972 GMC Jimmy...

I think it's because I have a decent load on the car with roof rack and the 270 awning. I didn't notice the so much before I put in the awning but it was there to a lesser extent. With the awning is pronounced.

I Have a strong suspicion that the stock sway bars are too soft, but I don't know if the eibach are stiffer. So I'm seeking feedback from the crowd. I know im going to change to King shocks because the stock shocks just doesn't absorb the washboard we have in the US West Coast high desert roads well enough. I'm at 11,000 miles and that has become very clear to me. But I'm considering changing the sway bar at the same time.

Any advice?
I have a full rack on mine and I regularly drive with a 28' ladder. You can most certainly feel it when the ladder is up there, and it's not even that heavy.
 
I have a full rack on mine and I regularly drive with a 28' ladder. You can most certainly feel it when the ladder is up there, and it's not even that heavy.
Exactly. Prior to the awning i didn't think sway was very pronounced but with the awning on i definitely feel the sway much more, especially at speed on the highway.

Maybe i'll send an email to eibach and ask them.
 
...and here I was hoping for softer bars to allow for easier flex off road but I typically completely remove the bars from my off road trucks.
This is generally my method of attack as well. My last Defender didn't have any sway bars and drove fine. But to do that usually requires slightly higher spring rates or tons of shock dampening to slow things down at a minimum. The best of both worlds is to have a nice firm bar for typical road use and a disconnect for off-road use. Although it's common to use "offroad" sway bars which help reduce bias front to rear offroad.

If I can beef up the sway bars effect then I can reduce my Kings a couple clicks and get a better ride with the same safety as the stiffer settings.
 
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Titan Motorsports in FL just added them (and the Eibach springs, and the Eibach shocks) to their shop truck... Well, at least the springs have been on for a while, and I *think* they had the shocks at Overland Expo East last year.... Either way, they have the sways on there as well, as it is a street vehicle.

I don't think the gain in anti-sway would outweigh the negatives for off-pavement travel
 
Titan Motorsports in FL just added them (and the Eibach springs, and the Eibach shocks) to their shop truck... Well, at least the springs have been on for a while, and I *think* they had the shocks at Overland Expo East last year.... Either way, they have the sways on there as well, as it is a street vehicle.

I don't think the gain in anti-sway would outweigh the negatives for off-pavement travel
I disagree. The Grenadier has relatively soft springs rates for its weight. It has little trouble working through the factory sway bars. Even empty the truck can almost max out the stock shock travel. A slight increase in sway bar rate will not likely hurt it much at all but will make a great deal of difference for highway travel stability. And again you can add the disconnects or even the APEX links or whatever they are called and get more travel than stock.
 
I figured ultimately i would get either the metalcloak sway bar disconnect or the airlynx from agile offroad for disconnecting the swaybars when offroad.
I think i like the idea of the airlynx a lot, seems like with a stiffer swaybar you get a decent amount of ability to dial in both on-road and offroad characteristics with that approach.

I haven't seen the airlynx myself but what i hope to avoid is having to lay under the car and pump air into the swaybars after driving offroad. especially if i'm driving in mud and yuck... On one of the agile videos it looked like they snaked a hose up to the engine bay for the front airlynx. Not sure about the rear. Its probably one of the things i'd like to see in person before committing.

The metalcloak looks solid too, but from what i've read it can be a bit of effort to connect the swaybar after having disconnect them unless the ground is perfectly flat. I've never used mechanical disconnects, only magnetic disconnects prior so i may be a bit misinformed. I don't live far from metalcloak so i figure i would head over to them and check it out in person.
 
I figured ultimately i would get either the metalcloak sway bar disconnect or the airlynx from agile offroad for disconnecting the swaybars when offroad.
I think i like the idea of the airlynx a lot, seems like with a stiffer swaybar you get a decent amount of ability to dial in both on-road and offroad characteristics with that approach.

I haven't seen the airlynx myself but what i hope to avoid is having to lay under the car and pump air into the swaybars after driving offroad. especially if i'm driving in mud and yuck... On one of the agile videos it looked like they snaked a hose up to the engine bay for the front airlynx. Not sure about the rear. Its probably one of the things i'd like to see in person before committing.

The metalcloak looks solid too, but from what i've read it can be a bit of effort to connect the swaybar after having disconnect them unless the ground is perfectly flat. I've never used mechanical disconnects, only magnetic disconnects prior so i may be a bit misinformed. I don't live far from metalcloak so i figure i would head over to them and check it out in person.
Straight pinned disconnects can certainly be a bear. Usually you can grab the chassis and rock the truck enough to pin it, or simply wait until you're back on tarmac. That said, I think you will find you will need to get into some rough terrain to necessitate disconnecting sway bars even with the Eibach (assuming they are stiffer).

Disconnecting for most people is probably less advantageous than being connected. Thats because most people will never reach 50% of what their truck is capable of. Thats not a bad thing, just how it is.
 
Can you setup the airlynx with a T and put a schrader valve somewhere? Bumper or behind the fuel door would make for easy balanced adjustments.

Grenx has in coil airbags. Might be a cheaper and possibly more effective option than sway bars and new end links.
 
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I was driving on the highway with 2 adults in the car and probably 200kg in the trunk and 100kg on the roof, including the roof rack. I find that when driving at 65mph, or about 30m/sec for the metric crew 😀 that evading something laying on the asphalt has the effect of steering what feels a bit like a boat. It sways from side to side. Reminds me a lot of my 1972 GMC Jimmy...

I think it's because I have a decent load on the car with roof rack and the 270 awning. I didn't notice the so much before I put in the awning but it was there to a lesser extent. With the awning is pronounced.

I Have a strong suspicion that the stock sway bars are too soft, but I don't know if the eibach are stiffer. So I'm seeking feedback from the crowd. I know im going to change to King shocks because the stock shocks just doesn't absorb the washboard we have in the US West Coast high desert roads well enough. I'm at 11,000 miles and that has become very clear to me. But I'm considering changing the sway bar at the same time.

Any advice?
Well of course some context helps.
And thank you for the metrification 👍

Your roll centre is high due to the way your vehicle is configured and loaded. That's giving you more of the boaty 'Prado' sensation.
For sure a stiffer sway bar will reduce the body roll but it's not something you want to overcook for those rapid lane change manoeuvres or it will tend to unload the inside wheel and further reduce directional stability.

Stiffer shocks on the compression side will help to reduce the spring rate. Changing the sway bar is a straightforward job so I'd be inclined to do the shocks first then reassess with the vehicle loaded up and the shocks dialled in. If you need more anti-roll then look at a stiffer bar. If you do shocks and bar together and don't like the results you won't know what's contributing the most effect.

@singlefin's advice is solid. Load assist airbags act like a constant rate secondary spring. They are plumbed independently so there is no tendency to pump air from one side to the other around corners so they don't add to body roll unless you (incorrectly) run them at a high pressure at low vehicle weight.
If you run top-heavy regularly then airbags might be a good option. With ~20psi they will act to reduce compression of the softer top coils of the standard springs plus restore lost ride height from your weight. When you're running light weight around the streets you drop the pressure back to ~5psi to keep the airbag inflated but not adding to your spring rate and giving a stiffer ride when you don't want it. Given your configuration and trip weight airbags used correctly might give you more overall bang for buck than a stiffer sway bar.
 
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