Continuous current for the internal usb connections

[bemax]

With ignition “on” I have power to the USB plugs in the cubby box and the one in the middle of the rear foot room.
When ignition is “out” I can switch the overhead power switch. However this online powers the rear usb plugs and not the ones in the cubby box.
Does somebody else has this problem as well?

 

[globalgregors]

I tested my power points with contact off (no key) and roof power switch on. The specs of my car are mentioned (since today) in my profile.

The next power points had current:

• USB power points passenger (2)
• 12V connector rear trunk (cigarette lighter)
• 12V connector Cubby Box (cigarette lighter)
• 12V connector right side footwell (with roof switch INT2 on)
• 12V external roof connector front right side (with roof switch INT1 on – this is a wiring mistake)
• 12V external roof connectors (3) front left, rear right, and rear left (with roof switch EXT3 on)

The next power point had no power at all:

• USB ports Cubby Box

Not tested (because not done anything with it yet):

• 12V connector left side footwell
• 12V connector under bonnet

I didn’t check which battery provides the power.

OK, @Jean Mercier I’m gonna leave this task In Progress for now, OK?

 

[MilesD]

I am becoming lost with all the gimmicks we will have to remember to ensure we have full functionality of the electrics in this vehicle.... 'Quality' is above expectations I was told!

Oft expectation fails, and most oft there where most it promises.

 

[DCPU]

Unless he wrote the pilots manual as well, in which case he may well be in Outer Mongolia.....

Maybe he's there now doing research for the DCPU Owner's Manual?

 

[Logsplitter]

Maybe he's there now doing research for the DCPU Owner's Manual?
View attachment 7818766

I little birdie tells me that’s exactly where the Ineos big wigs are now or were anyway
as an aside what do you think those very skinny tyres are for on the roofs of two of the vehicles.

 

[DCPU]

Yes, the tyres are an interesting thing. At first I thought they might be motorcycle tyres and this might be some form of recce for a new GS Trophy event; but zooming in they look huge.

 

[DaveB]

I little birdie tells me that’s exactly where the Ineos big wigs are now or were anyway
as an aside what do you think those very skinny tyres are for on the roofs of two of the vehicles.

I saw in a previous one they had camera men/women/folk on motorbikes

 

[jb_hamon]

Well, I have for sure also a wiring mistake, I already posted that a month ago when I got my car:
The right hand external Deutsch roof connector (for putting a light bar for instance, with 25A spec), is activated by INT1 instead of EXT2 on the roof panel. Today I removed the 10A fuse FI28, and it deactivates power on the that roof connector, therefore no way to put a powerful lightbar there. Not my intention by the way.
I am now wondering what the left hand auxiliary footwell PowerPoint is connected to!

Hi Jean.
I think the F128 fuse only protects the wires between the switches and the relay you can hear contacting when turning ON the « PWR » switch. It makes sens that these lines are protected too against short circuits. The power line from the fuse box (the one on the right side of the waterproof electrical box) to the outlets is protected by a 80A fuse. So it should be ok to connect a 25A load on the A plug or a 25A total load on B, C and D external plug.
I’ve asked my representative about this and will keep this thread posted…

 

[Jean Mercier]

Hi Jean.
I think the F128 fuse only protects the wires between the switches and the relay you can hear contacting when turning ON the « PWR » switch. It makes sens that these lines are protected too against short circuits. The power line from the fuse box (the one on the right side of the waterproof electrical box) to the outlets is protected by a 80A fuse. So it should be ok to connect a 25A load on the A plug or a 25A total load on B, C and D external plug.
I’ve asked my representative about this and will keep this thread posted…

Thanks, sounds logical! But I want to correct that wiring mistake anyway, either my dealer does it soon, or I will do it myself.

 

[jb_hamon]

Thanks, sounds logical! But I want to correct that wiring mistake anyway, either my dealer does it soon, or I will do it myself.

If you do it yourself, it would be interesting that you detail the process with photos and steps…

 

[Darby]

I tested my power points with contact off (no key) and roof power switch on. The specs of my car are mentioned (since today) in my profile.

The next power points had current:

• USB power points passenger (2)
• 12V connector rear trunk (cigarette lighter)
• 12V connector Cubby Box (cigarette lighter)
• 12V connector right side footwell (with roof switch INT2 on)
• 12V external roof connector front right side (with roof switch INT1 on – this is a wiring mistake)
• 12V external roof connectors (3) front left, rear right, and rear left (with roof switch EXT3 on)

The next power point had no power at all:

• USB ports Cubby Box

Not tested (because not done anything with it yet):

• 12V connector left side footwell
• 12V connector under bonnet

I didn’t check which battery provides the power.

Hi Jean!
Have you since discovered which battery provides the power? Would be interested if you can leave the roof power switch on with accessories having power and not worry about it draining the starter battery.
Thanks

 

[Eric]

Hi Jean!
Have you since discovered which battery provides the power? Would be interested if you can leave the roof power switch on with accessories having power and not worry about it draining the starter battery.
Thanks

I would expect that to be the starter battery for the INT switches since that is provided even if the aux battery isn't specified.

 

[DCPU]

I would expect that to be the starter battery for the INT switches since that is provided even if the aux battery isn't specified.

Plus it would defeat some of the functionality of the Smartpass.

 

[Darby]

I would expect that to be the starter battery for the INT switches since that is provided even if the aux battery isn't specified.

That's a fair assumption as surely they wouldn't change the wiring for cars with the extra auxiliary switches. Will be interesting to know if the EXT switches are also off the starter battery, otherwise what uses the aux battery to make it worthwhile?

 

[jb_hamon]

Hi Jean!
Have you since discovered which battery provides the power? Would be interested if you can leave the roof power switch on with accessories having power and not worry about it draining the starter battery.
Thanks

Hi Darby.
I don’t have the auxiliary battery. I will fit an LiFePo later, as well as a DC/DC charger.
However, I‘ve found that the roof plugs as well as the 25A under bonnet outlet are supplied by the smallest red wire, at the far right in the fuse box A on the picture below from the Post in thread 'Main fuses used in INEOS Grenadier'.
I suspect that the two larger wires are supplying the front winch and the rear NATO plug. I wasn’t able to check on that : as I understood from another post, a software issue is preventing, hopefully until the next update, the NATO plug to be supplied when the front winch isn’t… and I don’t have the front winch. Maybe @Jean Mercier can confirm this?
Anyway, by analyzing the wiring of this picture, I think that it’s the main battery which is supplying all the electrical appliances, from the fuse box A. If I understood ok the CTEK manual, it is just managing the current flow to the batteries according to their states of charge when the engine is running.
Hope that helps…

 

[jb_hamon]

That's a fair assumption as surely they wouldn't change the wiring for cars with the extra auxiliary switches. Will be interesting to know if the EXT switches are also off the starter battery, otherwise what uses the aux battery to make it worthwhile?

As I understood, the auxiliary battery’s fonction is to assist the main one to start the engine in case it’s been drained by the accessories while the engine was off.

 

[DCPU]

However, I‘ve found that the roof plugs as well as the 25A under bonnet outlet are supplied by the smallest red wire, at the far right in the fuse box A on the picture below from the Post in thread 'Main fuses used in INEOS Grenadier'.

The 80A wire? Do you know the physical location of the fuse box it feeds - I think it's this one:

Which consists of:
5A mini - feed wire for one of the 30A relays (labelled 614) which is the winch pre-relay referred below (* also the trigger feed for the NATO socket which isn't working for those without a front winch).
25A mini x 3 and the remaining 3 x 30A relays (labelled 614) are for the under bonnet 25A outlet (bare wires), 3 side and rear roof lights and single front roof light (together making up all 4 of the roof boxes).

I suspect that the two larger wires are supplying the front winch and the rear NATO plug. I wasn’t able to check on that : as I understood from another post, a software issue is preventing, hopefully until the next update, the NATO plug to be supplied when the front winch isn’t… and I don’t have the front winch. Maybe @Jean Mercier can confirm this?

I understand that Fuse box A serves the following:
300A - Smartpass
350A - Rear Winch via the Albright relay/solenoid. The trigger wire for the Albright relay is via a Winch pre-relay (RL04 30A/micro) which has a separate trigger wire via a separate fuse (FL04/5A mini).
80A - as above...

I think the front winch takes it's feed directly from the MTA jump start terminal, via the Red Winches thermal circuit breaker and a second front mounted Albright relay/solenoid. The trigger wire for the Albright relay is via a Winch pre-relay (RL04 30A/micro) which has a separate trigger wire via a separate fuse (FL04/5A mini) (the same pre-relay as for the rear winch).

 

[Jean Mercier]

Maybe @Jean Mercier can confirm this?

I regret, my car is at my dealer since yesterday, I am driving a real gentleman's car now, a Mercedes with a lot of weird and scaring warnings when I don't stay very well in my lane (horrible vibration) , when I drive too close to another car, etc.
But, they called me, to tell me they discovered at least the problem of my airco (not working): a crack in the low pressure line.

 

[Eric]

I regret, my car is at my dealer since yesterday, I am driving a real gentleman's car now, a Mercedes with a lot of weird and scaring warnings when I don't stay very well in my lane (horrible vibration) , when I drive too close to another car, etc.
But, they called me, to tell me they discovered at least the problem of my airco (not working): a crack in the low pressure line.

Actually finding a fault is a good result - it can be fixed. Having an unidentified intermittent fault that is much more irksome.

 

[Darby]

As I understood, the auxiliary battery’s fonction is to assist the main one to start the engine in case it’s been drained by the accessories while the engine was off.

Ah that makes sense, I have been thinking of the whole concept backwards, as I am previously used to auxillary batteries in cars being responsible for all accessories and the main battery just for starting the car. Therefore, I hope the accessories only drain one battery / the main battery and not go onto the auxiliary battery next if I leave some accessories left on!

My only other worry is that the SMARTPASS120S states in the manual that it's battery guard feature is to protect the service/auxillary battery being damaged from over drained, but not the starter battery. Seems like the SMARTPASS is designed for all the accessories to be wired to the auxiliary/service battery or the output on the SMARTPASS.

 

[bigleonski]

Ah that makes sense, I have been thinking of the whole concept backwards, as I am previously used to auxillary batteries in cars being responsible for all accessories and the main battery just for starting the car. Therefore, I hope the accessories only drain one battery / the main battery and not go onto the auxiliary battery next if I leave some accessories left on!

My only other worry is that the SMARTPASS120S states in the manual that it's battery guard feature is to protect the service/auxillary battery being damaged from over drained, but not the starter battery. Seems like the SMARTPASS is designed for all the accessories to be wired to the auxiliary/service battery or the output on the SMARTPASS.

View attachment 7819079

Yeah I’m still trying to get comfortable with this scenario. Counter intuitive to what I’ve done in the past.