Continuous current for the internal usb connections

[bemax]

With ignition “on” I have power to the USB plugs in the cubby box and the one in the middle of the rear foot room.
When ignition is “out” I can switch the overhead power switch. However this online powers the rear usb plugs and not the ones in the cubby box.
Does somebody else has this problem as well?

 

[ADVAW8S]

Yeah I’m still trying to get comfortable with this scenario. Counter intuitive to what I’ve done in the past.

I'm just putting it out there. What if Ineos manufacturing got it wrong. In my uneducated opinion, The nato plugs and winch should connect to main battery. But I would think fridges, led bars and internal accessories go off the aux battery.

 

[bigleonski]

I'm just putting it out there. What if Ineos manufacturing got it wrong. In my uneducated opinion, The nato plugs and winch should connect to main battery. But I would think fridges, led bars and internal accessories go off the aux battery.

Then I’ll get it changed to suit my needs. I admit that electrics are a black art I never managed to master. The base components are there, they’ll just need to be reconfigured, albeit that’ll be a PITA. I’m considering potentially running an extra slimline lifepo4 in the back anyway (mainly to bulletproof running a fridge), so adjusting the setup could happen anyway.

 

[jb_hamon]

I think what could be done is :
1) remove connexion between fusebox S and A
2) connect fuse box S to smartpass input
3) connect smartpass output to auxiliary battery positive
4) connect auxiliary battery positive to fusebox A

What do you think ?

 

[DCPU]

I'm just putting it out there. What if Ineos manufacturing got it wrong. In my uneducated opinion, The nato plugs and winch should connect to main battery.

As they do.

But I would think fridges, led bars and internal accessories go off the aux battery.

You can put your fridge on either. Indeed, Ineos have given you 3 options:

1. Off main via existing sockets
2. Off aux via Smartpass
3. Off aux direct

The Smartpass just gives you safe options to ensure whatever happens, current draw wise, you'll always have something in the aux battery to crank the engine (provided you've not wired too much off the aux direct and left it on!).

 

[KDJDGrenadier]

It's a pain in the ass that we have to find it out all by ourselves, and that Ineos doesn't provide us with the wiring diagrams! I am really pissed of, like @DCPU said, I could do other things like finishing the endless list of jobs that my partner askes me to do

I agree Jean, wouldn't it be great to have the documentation as to where the wires run and the colours. Even a block diagram level just so we can trace the wires and work out what makes them 'live'.

 

[Xrford]

Ah that makes sense, I have been thinking of the whole concept backwards, as I am previously used to auxillary batteries in cars being responsible for all accessories and the main battery just for starting the car. Therefore, I hope the accessories only drain one battery / the main battery and not go onto the auxiliary battery next if I leave some accessories left on!

My only other worry is that the SMARTPASS120S states in the manual that it's battery guard feature is to protect the service/auxillary battery being damaged from over drained, but not the starter battery. Seems like the SMARTPASS is designed for all the accessories to be wired to the auxiliary/service battery or the output on the SMARTPASS.

View attachment 7819079

Smartpass will totally isolate the service battery from the starter if the engine/ignition is off, so unless you have other loads coming off your starter battery directly the starter battery should not get drained by the loads connected to your smart pass aux output (consumers in ctek speak) or other loads connected directly to your service battery. Also the smart pass aux output (the one with the fridge connected in the diagram) can accept up to 80amps of load and will shutdown the smartpass aux loads if the service battery drops below I believe 11.5v to protect the service battery from damage. Of course any loads you wire directly to the service battery will not be disconnected and can cause your service battery to be deeply discharged and damage it. Unless you have critical or high amp loads, I suggest you use the smart pass aux output instead of connecting loads directly to the service battery, to take advantage of this feature.

 

[Wueste]

With ignition “on” I have power to the USB plugs in the cubby box and the one in the middle of the rear foot room.
When ignition is “out” I can switch the overhead power switch. However this online powers the rear usb plugs and not the ones in the cubby box.
Does somebody else has this problem as well?

I believe that is correct. It works as intended

The front USB ports are also for data transfer from the Pathfinder / Roadbook.
The rear USB ports are for charging only.

So I guess the front ones are linked to the infotainment and the normal on-board electrics and the rear ones work via the optional auxiliary battery.

This is also recognisable from the symbols.
In the front the classic USB data symbol, in the rear the charging symbol.

It would be really good if something like this was in the manual and not x pages with instructions like: "don't drink petrol and wear gloves when refuelling...".


Greetings wueste

 

[Darby]

Smartpass will totally isolate the service battery from the starter if the engine/ignition is off, so unless you have other loads coming off your starter battery directly the starter battery should not get drained by the loads connected to your smart pass aux output (consumers in ctek speak) or other loads connected directly to your service battery. Also the smart pass aux output (the one with the fridge connected in the diagram) can accept up to 80amps of load and will shutdown the smartpass aux loads if the service battery drops below I believe 11.5v to protect the service battery from damage. Of course any loads you wire directly to the service battery will not be disconnected and can cause your service battery to be deeply discharged and damage it. Unless you have critical or high amp loads, I suggest you use the smart pass aux output instead of connecting loads directly to the service battery, to take advantage of this feature.

I understand what your saying and the smartpass concept, my concern is that ineos have wired all the roof and EXT outputs to the starter battery!

 

[AnD3rew]

I'm just putting it out there. What if Ineos manufacturing got it wrong. In my uneducated opinion, The nato plugs and winch should connect to main battery. But I would think fridges, led bars and internal accessories go off the aux battery.

That would be normal, some systems will connect starting and Aux together for winch

 

[DCPU]

I understand what your saying and the smartpass concept, my concern is that ineos have wired all the roof and EXT outputs to the starter battery!

Why does that concern you if the Smartpass effectively "saves" enough energy in the auxiliary to ensure starter always works?

 

[Darby]

Why does that concern you if the Smartpass effectively "saves" enough energy in the auxiliary to ensure starter always works?

As the starter battery is potentially not protected from over draining and being damaged with accessories left on overnight, as the smart pass is made to protect the auxillary battery from accessories, not the starter battery.

 

[DCPU]

As the starter battery is potentially not protected from over draining and being damaged with accessories left on overnight

Yes, I guess the key bit "potentially not protected" is what needs clarifying. There's a BMS on the starter battery, so conceivably it could have such protection?

It would be great if it did!