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Can't remove one of the door hinge bolts (each side)

IG4Me

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I bought the Buzz Overland Hinge steps and started the install today.

Followed the instructions using a Torx 50 and 3 of the 4 door hinge bolts on the driver side loosened quite easily. Then the 4th refused to budge, and now I am close to (or may have already) stripped the head of the 4th. So I gave up on that side, popped over to the passenger side and had exactly the same problem (though not with the same position bolt!). Three came loose quite easily and the 4th won't budge.

Anyone else run into this issue? How did you solve?
 

RyanT

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I bought the Buzz Overland Hinge steps and started the install today.

Followed the instructions using a Torx 50 and 3 of the 4 door hinge bolts on the driver side loosened quite easily. Then the 4th refused to budge, and now I am close to (or may have already) stripped the head of the 4th. So I gave up on that side, popped over to the passenger side and had exactly the same problem (though not with the same position bolt!). Three came loose quite easily and the 4th won't budge.

Anyone else run into this issue? How did you solve?
Can you post up a photo of the head. Depending on how bad it is there are a few things you can do.

An impact wrench can also help break them loose.
 
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IG4Me

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Can you post up a photo of the head. Depending on how bad it is there are a few things you can do.

An impact wrench can also help break them loose.
Attached a pic. Both show some scoring as the right one was a bit stuck but loosened with some pressure. This is the bottom hinge (the top one both loosened quite easily).

The one on the left is the near or already stripped.

I have tried penetrating oil around the head and striking the center of the head sharply with a hammer/screwdriver - both of which have worked in the past on rusted stuck bolts. I realize this is not rusted but figured I would give it a shot nonetheless.
 

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Jiman01

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Did you notice any thread locker on the bolts you were able to remove?

If so, you might need to heat the area to soften the thread locker. Since you want to protect the surrounding painted area, I’d recommend something along the lines of a soldering iron. Insert the tip in the torx head and let the heat soak into the bolt/thread locker.

Is it possible that the weight of the door is causing the last bolt to bind? Maybe try reseuring all the bolts and start at the one that is stuck 🤷🏻‍♂️

I’ll be interested to hear how you solve the issue because I’m considering the same hinge steps.
 

rovie

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Attached a pic. Both show some scoring as the right one was a bit stuck but loosened with some pressure. This is the bottom hinge (the top one both loosened quite easily).

The one on the left is the near or already stripped.

I have tried penetrating oil around the head and striking the center of the head sharply with a hammer/screwdriver - both of which have worked in the past on rusted stuck bolts. I realize this is not rusted but figured I would give it a shot nonetheless.
I'm not sure if it will help in this case either, as the screws are probably very tight. However, I have made progress with it in another case.
View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4m_4nCQrLs0
 
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Need to hit the outer diameter with a large pin punch then use a smaller diameter pin punch down the center. Knock in the burred torx edges use either a larger torx bit or belt in a square ended cut Allen key. The idea is to broach the hole to give a good drive so drilling the hole may help. Torx are metric so AF allen keys can work better when the bolt loosens gently work back and forwards by hand and remove the bolt. Make sure the doors weight is supported or retighten the previously loosened bolts and remove the last tight bolt. Bolts painted at the factory can be better secured than locktite. There is no avoiding damaging the paint on the bolts so get some touch up paint. If the recessed torx bit heads are totally screwed may need to use a sandard Rh large drill bit to remove the bolt head a Lh drill bit to remove the remaining thread or a Rh drill and easy outs. Use heat as a last resort and after inspecting the opposite side as heat may damage some adhesives, fasteners, sealants.
 

ECrider

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I needed to use a good Torx key (Wera) and a 2 foot long half inch breaker bar on all my hinge bolts. From memory they are not holding any weight but appeared just for show. Bloody big bolts though.
 

IG4Me

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Did you notice any thread locker on the bolts you were able to remove?

If so, you might need to heat the area to soften the thread locker. Since you want to protect the surrounding painted area, I’d recommend something along the lines of a soldering iron. Insert the tip in the torx head and let the heat soak into the bolt/thread locker.

Is it possible that the weight of the door is causing the last bolt to bind? Maybe try reseuring all the bolts and start at the one that is stuck 🤷🏻‍♂️

I’ll be interested to hear how you solve the issue because I’m considering the same hinge steps.
No thread locker on any of the bolts that came out. I did retighten all three and try the last bolt, as I thought it might be a binding issue as well. I'm going to try a few of the other options suggested and will report back with what works. BTW, the steps are very solidly made - I'm excited to get them installed as I keep standing on the sill or the seat to reach items from the side of my rack.
 

scubadds

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I saw a new (or at least to me) product; It was cold spray to remove things like this (vs heat)
CRC freeze off....check it out;
I have not tried it on anything yet; but thought I would get a can to have around
 

Stu_Barnes

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No thread locker on any of the bolts that came out. I did retighten all three and try the last bolt, as I thought it might be a binding issue as well. I'm going to try a few of the other options suggested and will report back with what works. BTW, the steps are very solidly made - I'm excited to get them installed as I keep standing on the sill or the seat to reach items from the side of my rack.
I can’t add any more to the above unfortunately.

When you are reinstalling make sure that you use a correct grade replacement bolt for the damaged ones if they don’t come as part of the step kit, and torque them up to spec. The correct torque should be 60Nm for the painted door hinge bolts. I’m sure that buzz have updated the install instructions by now and you may have slipped through the net if you bought a while ago.
 
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Phred

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Are they Torx or Torx Plus...??

You can use Torx on TorxP (but not vise-versa) but, at higher torques, you can jimmy-up the fitting.

If they are TorxP, get a set of proper TorxP bits.

EDIT: I think they are TorxP-45.
 
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