C-Tek Battery Tender (is this correct)

[Dfndr90]

Hello,

Thank you for the help with this quick question.

I need to place the Gren on a battery tender as it will sit for long periods of time.

I want to install the C-Tek Comfort Panel Indicator.

In the photos, marked in red I have highlighted the positions on the Aux battery and also where I want to install the panel.

Does anyone see any concerns with this installation?

 

[anand]

Easiest spot to wire the battery tender would be at the jump-start port under the hood as there is a great ground right there as well...

Are you trying to wire the battery tender only to the aux battery?

 

[Dfndr90]

Easiest spot to wire the battery tender would be at the jump-start port under the hood as there is a great ground right there as well...

Are you trying to wire the battery tender only to the aux battery?

Yes, to the AUX battery. I’m trying to make it clean and the CTek panel makes it plug and play.

If I keep the AUX battery full, the battery management system “should” top off the main battery, or have I read things wrong.

I figured I would ask hear before I cut a hole and wire the battery.

 

[anand]

Yes, to the AUX battery. I’m trying to make it clean and the CTek panel makes it plug and play.

If I keep the AUX battery full, the battery management system “should” top off the main battery, or have I read things wrong.

I figured I would ask hear before I cut a hole and wire the battery.

Assuming any loads on the main battery are less than the trickle charging ability of the CTEK Smartpass you'll be good!

 

[Dfndr90]

Assuming any loads on the main battery are less than the trickle charging ability of the CTEK Smartpass you'll be good!

Thank you. The Gren will be parked so I don’t think there will be a lot of load on the main battery.

 

[anand]

Thank you. The Gren will be parked so I don’t think there will be a lot of load on the main battery.

Not at all, as stated in the battery drain thread, after 31 days of being parked I was still at 12.6v (single battery)

 

[rovie]

Not at all, as stated in the battery drain thread, after 31 days of being parked I was still at 12.6v (single battery)

Hi @anand would you say this is independent of whether the vehicle is locked or not?

 

[anand]

Hi @anand would you say this is independent of whether the vehicle is locked or not?

Fantastic question, but I feel like the answer is yes. If I'm not mistaken the approximate time for the vehicle to go to "sleep" increases when it isn't locked (increasing from ~5 minutes to ~9 minutes). Logic would say that nothing should wake up after that, even when it is unlocked. Other vehicles (for instance, my better half's Subaru Forester) are constantly scanning for proximity keys or doing over-the-air software updates which leads to increased/continuous battery usage. The Grenadier has none of those features. With that being said, after sitting for the same amount of time, her Forester also had enough battery voltage to start, however it was very close to not cranking over (her battery capacity is ~50% of the Grenadier's).

So, who's going to leave one unlocked for a month to test... For science!

 

[rovie]

Fantastic question, but I feel like the answer is yes. If I'm not mistaken the approximate time for the vehicle to go to "sleep" increases when it isn't locked (increasing from ~5 minutes to ~9 minutes). Logic would say that nothing should wake up after that, even when it is unlocked. Other vehicles (for instance, my better half's Subaru Forester) are constantly scanning for proximity keys or doing over-the-air software updates which leads to increased/continuous battery usage. The Grenadier has none of those features. With that being said, after sitting for the same amount of time, her Forester also had enough battery voltage to start, however it was very close to not cranking over (her battery capacity is ~50% of the Grenadier's).

So, who's going to leave one unlocked for a month to test... For science!

I wouldn't suspect any difference either. I will leave the Grenadier for 2 weeks in the near future. And possibly for 4 weeks in the summer. If someone can try it out earlier, that would be great.

 

[Zimm]

Easiest spot to wire the battery tender would be at the jump-start port under the hood as there is a great ground right there as well...

Are you trying to wire the battery tender only to the aux battery?

My experience does not comport. I know what you've been saying and how it's "supposed" to work, but, I have only had effective charging at the battery terminals, and it's registered with the on board system.

 

[Tom109]

So, who's going to leave one unlocked for a month to test... For science!

Parked, unlocked, for 23 days. SoC indicated 80% upon return. Over the following 2-days I drove 3-4 trips, 3-4 hours total, and SoC hit 95%.

 

[Tom109]

My experience does not comport. I know what you've been saying and how it's "supposed" to work, but, I have only had effective charging at the battery terminals, and it's registered with the on board system.

Wonder if the NATO plug connection will work for a CTEK charger? Im trying to plan for my fridge.

 

[Zimm]

Wonder if the NATO plug connection will work for a CTEK charger? Im trying to plan for my fridge.

I don't have wiring diagrams, but both my NOCO and Optima charger stopped charging and read full at both locations after only a dozen or so minutes, and the on board electric read 80%. After directly charging each battery for 4-5 hrs or so (I wasn't really timing it,) it was 99%. The unit did go into "reconditioning" mode for some reason on both batteries.

these are basically lead acid batteries designed for stop/start use. Fully charging lead acid batteries slows sufation and extends battery life, BBBBUUUUUUTTTTT, one risks some off gassing. Notice where the batteries are located. One of the design issues with having front fender wings is the loss of engine bay space for ancillary items, and modern engines take up a bit of space, especially a straight 6. One of the things I DID NOT LIKE with the design was being in the same space as the batteries.... I'm going to toss out there a possibility of whats going on....

Since my top off and reconditioning, I've been watching the A/V meters, and the car is definitely trying to get the batteries into the 80's %. I'm now down to 89, and the charge voltage has dropped from 4,8 to 4,3, and amps can be as low as 1 at a 70mph cruise. So, it has the appearance that since Ineos put the batteries in the passenger compartment, they are keeping the charge % below the off gassing threshold, and it is resulting in lower than ideal states of charge for a lead acid based battery, and we are suffering premature sulfation for it.

Two days ago I ordered a 2 battery trickle charge unit (noco 5x2) that I will be attaching. If I'm right, merely charging the the aux and letting it trickle charge the main will not desufate the main. If I'm wrong well, then I overthought the whole thing and no harm no foul.

 

[n3qem]

Wonder if the NATO plug connection will work for a CTEK charger? Im trying to plan for my fridge.

The US trailer plug is also always hot for 12vdc. I cobbled-together a trailer port cable from Amazon with my NoCo Genius charger, and it keeps things topped-up quite happily. I believe it was pin 4, which is black on the harness I got off Amazon. I run the cable down past the driver door, and hang it from the door handle with a carabiner to remind me to detach before I depart.

 

[LabRat]

The US trailer plug is also always hot for 12vdc. I cobbled-together a trailer port cable from Amazon with my NoCo Genius charger, and it keeps things topped-up quite happily. I believe it was pin 4, which is black on the harness I got off Amazon. I run the cable down past the driver door, and hang it from the door handle with a carabiner to remind me to detach before I depart.

Yup, I had a 7-pin connection in the truck bed of my Chevy and used this to power my Dometic fridge/freezer.

Amazon.de : POLLAK 11-896 7-Way Power Outlet Adapter

Here's one that's wired - granted overkill, but does have the right wires to connect to the right pins.

Amazon.de : Nilight 50049R 7Way 8 Feet Heavy Duty 7 Way Plug Inline Trailer Cord for Truck Camper Blade Molded RV Cable Wire Weatherproof

 

[Tom109]

I don't have wiring diagrams, but both my NOCO and Optima charger stopped charging and read full at both locations after only a dozen or so minutes, and the on board electric read 80%. After directly charging each battery for 4-5 hrs or so (I wasn't really timing it,) it was 99%. The unit did go into "reconditioning" mode for some reason on both batteries.

these are basically lead acid batteries designed for stop/start use. Fully charging lead acid batteries slows sufation and extends battery life, BBBBUUUUUUTTTTT, one risks some off gassing. Notice where the batteries are located. One of the design issues with having front fender wings is the loss of engine bay space for ancillary items, and modern engines take up a bit of space, especially a straight 6. One of the things I DID NOT LIKE with the design was being in the same space as the batteries.... I'm going to toss out there a possibility of whats going on....

Since my top off and reconditioning, I've been watching the A/V meters, and the car is definitely trying to get the batteries into the 80's %. I'm now down to 89, and the charge voltage has dropped from 4,8 to 4,3, and amps can be as low as 1 at a 70mph cruise. So, it has the appearance that since Ineos put the batteries in the passenger compartment, they are keeping the charge % below the off gassing threshold, and it is resulting in lower than ideal states of charge for a lead acid based battery, and we are suffering premature sulfation for it.

Two days ago I ordered a 2 battery trickle charge unit (noco 5x2) that I will be attaching. If I'm right, merely charging the the aux and letting it trickle charge the main will not desufate the main. If I'm wrong well, then I overthought the whole thing and no harm no foul.

So connecting through a rear plug did not seem to reach full charge?

Also, what A/V meters do you use for each battery?

 

[DaveB]

Mine often sits for 2-3 days with a fridge, camera and 2 inductive phone chargers on.
Last Tuesday it was at 0% charge so I put it on my CTEK MXS5 charger overnight.
I connected it to the positive post under the bonnet and the engine lifting ring under the plastic engine cover.
This charges the main battery, which in Ineos configuration is the only battery that can go flat.
6:00 am Wednesday it was at 95% charge and after 2 x 200 kms of driving and sitting parked for 5 hours in between it was at 97%
This Sunday I will park it at Brisbane airport and pick it up again the following Friday afternoon.
I will turn everything off and unplug the fridge and see how it goes for charge.

 

[Zimm]

So connecting through a rear plug did not seem to reach full charge?

Also, what A/V meters do you use for each battery?

I was just using the built in unit. It matched the Optima charger which has a meter on it. I have battery load testers for data center UPS units, and the charger is nominally accurate for automobile work when I compared years ago. So, while I think the car is only reading the starter battery, so far I don't have a reason to think it's wildly inaccurate.

 

[Karearea]

Fantastic question, but I feel like the answer is yes. If I'm not mistaken the approximate time for the vehicle to go to "sleep" increases when it isn't locked (increasing from ~5 minutes to ~9 minutes). Logic would say that nothing should wake up after that, even when it is unlocked. Other vehicles (for instance, my better half's Subaru Forester) are constantly scanning for proximity keys or doing over-the-air software updates which leads to increased/continuous battery usage. The Grenadier has none of those features. With that being said, after sitting for the same amount of time, her Forester also had enough battery voltage to start, however it was very close to not cranking over (her battery capacity is ~50% of the Grenadier's).

So, who's going to leave one unlocked for a month to test... For science!

Ok… in the interests of science and anecdotal experiences here we go….
Bear in mind that Shitake is an early bird off the production run at vin 193 so definitely an MY23.0 model!
She had been sitting for about a month “unlocked” before locking and leaving for an additional two months! Three months in total. This was kind of deliberately experimental to be honest as I have sufficient options to restart in an emergency.
On return this week the Chinese battery monitor and on screen display both agreed at 12.53v and “low” power.
Started first time with zero hesitation. Diesel btw
Drove to town a distance of 25km battery charged up from 53% red to 63% amber
Happiest camper in Northland NZ
Here is the strange part that I have experienced many times……
On restarting the screen battery monitor now showing 83% green and has done ever since
I’ve given up trying to figure this discrepancy out and say again - she’s never let me down