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Battery %

AWo

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When I buy a new battery type the battery manufacturer support receives an E-Mail from me, where I ask about the specs. Then I choose the right charging scheme from my charger independent of how they call it. However, most of the time, AGM fits to AGM oder Gel to Gel, but not always. I use the Sterling B2B Charger in two of our cars and they are fine, so far. In other cars I want to test other chargers....I'm always curious...

BTW, I used AGM in the past as auxilliary batteries...but they were gone too soon. Actually I try Gel-type batteries and they proved to work much better, yet. Even under harsh conditions like -30°C to -40°C.

AWo
 

Tazzieman

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Harsh, harsher, the harshest, Australia.....

Did I got it right?

AWo
Australian mainland , yes. Extreme weather , flies, drongoes everywhere.
Tasmania no, none of that Unofficially, it's not part of Australia.
 

AWo

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Lappland, Sweden, the same, moskitos everywhere and horseflies big as thumbs, wolves, moose, bears (not beer!!! That is only available in a useful way in shops called Sytembolaget)....and....reindeer doody everwhere....

AWo
 
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Tazzieman

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Worst enemy in Tasmania is lack of cellphone coverage.
Don't let the nasty man scare you with tales of venomous spiders and snakes and white pointer sharks.
 
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Same here, I have a Ctek MXS 10 charger and always set it to the standard charge, not AGM because I'm told EFB's need to be charged that way.

I'm going to dissagree with that statement.
Both EFB and AGM batteries require special chargers in order to avoid overcharging them. The voltage shouldn never exceed 14,4V also, iIt’s important to stop charging when the indicator goes down to 2,5A.
Quality chargers have built-in control systems to prevent overcharging.

One of the benefits of EFB technology is that it can deliver a higher starting current (500A) over conventional batteries that can only get up to 300A.
They last longer than standard batteries and have a higher C rating (so charge much more quickly).
They are also better in colder weather and can be stored for a couple of years without degrading (unlike other types).

One of the problems with EFB batteries is that they have very strict charging conditions so it’s all too easy to overcharge and damage them.
So "No" do not set your charger to 'standard charge'.

Do not set your charger to AGM either as these types of batteries require 14.6 to 14.8V to charge correctly and if you give an EFB that voltage it will (over time) fuck it up..
In short you need a battery charger that is designed for a EFB battery.
 
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AWo

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Worst enemy in Tasmania is lack of cellphone coverage.
Don't let the nasty man scare you with tales of venomous spiders and snakes and white pointer sharks.
Dude....THAT's tough! No cellphone coverage.....HOW do you SURVIVE? And the kids....

AWo
 

Tazzieman

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Dude....THAT's tough! No cellphone coverage.....HOW do you SURVIVE? And the kids....

AWo
Kids are 25-33 now...
Phone drops out near my home , 10km from capital city. And of course anywhere west where the mountains are.
It's not so bad losing phone and internet when getting away from it all...
 

ECrider

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I'm going to dissagree with that statement.
Both EFB and AGM batteries require special chargers in order to avoid overcharging them. The voltage shouldn never exceed 14,4V also, iIt’s important to stop charging when the indicator goes down to 2,5A.
Quality chargers have built-in control systems to prevent overcharging.

One of the benefits of EFB technology is that it can deliver a higher starting current (500A) over conventional batteries that can only get up to 300A.
They last longer than standard batteries and have a higher C rating (so charge much more quickly).
They are also better in colder weather and can be stored for a couple of years without degrading (unlike other types).

One of the problems with EFB batteries is that they have very strict charging conditions so it’s all too easy to overcharge and damage them.
So "No" do not set your charger to 'standard charge'.

Do not set your charger to AGM either as these types of batteries require 14.6 to 14.8V to charge correctly and if you give an EFB that voltage it will (over time) fuck it up..
In short you need a battery charger that is designed for a EFB battery.
bugger, you think I need another charger than a Ctek MXS10? I'll research a bit but it's probably beyond my comprehension.
 

Bruce

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bugger, you think I need another charger than a Ctek MXS10? I'll research a bit but it's probably beyond my comprehension.
I was looking at the Victron IP65. Absorption mode looks like you can set it to desired voltage, which decreases as you approach full. I am just starting research and learning lots as I go. The IP22 with it's 30A is probably more than I need.
 

ECrider

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I was looking at the Victron IP65. Absorption mode looks like you can set it to desired voltage, which decreases as you approach full. I am just starting research and learning lots as I go. The IP22 with it's 30A is probably more than I need.
Tks Bruce
 

Tazzieman

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Smart chargers , as opposed to the old ones ( known as "toasters") are smart. The product literature , available online for most reputable brands will indicate suitability and usage profiles for different batteries.
If any brand is dodgy it will soon be branded as such on any number of forums.
FWIW for Australian viewers I use a Kickass charger. I've watched it closely and It works as it should on all types.
 
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bugger, you think I need another charger than a Ctek MXS10? I'll research a bit but it's probably beyond my comprehension.

The MXS10 (from thir website) says WET-MF-GEL-AGM-Ca/Ca batteries and also sates 4 voltages at up to 10A.
One of those voltages is 14.4V which is what the battery needs.
If you can set that, then I don't think you need a new charger, CTEK are good, probably the best.

My question is, why do you need to externaly charge the battery ?
 

K1LL3M

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I'm going to dissagree with that statement.
Both EFB and AGM batteries require special chargers in order to avoid overcharging them. The voltage shouldn never exceed 14,4V also, iIt’s important to stop charging when the indicator goes down to 2,5A.
Quality chargers have built-in control systems to prevent overcharging.

One of the benefits of EFB technology is that it can deliver a higher starting current (500A) over conventional batteries that can only get up to 300A.
They last longer than standard batteries and have a higher C rating (so charge much more quickly).
They are also better in colder weather and can be stored for a couple of years without degrading (unlike other types).

One of the problems with EFB batteries is that they have very strict charging conditions so it’s all too easy to overcharge and damage them.
So "No" do not set your charger to 'standard charge'.

Do not set your charger to AGM either as these types of batteries require 14.6 to 14.8V to charge correctly and if you give an EFB that voltage it will (over time) fuck it up..
In short you need a battery charger that is designed for a EFB battery.
No disrespect intended, trying to understand how to get my stuff right. Where did you get this information?

The many and various reports I have read when trying to decide on connecting the agm profile wire of the 250se, show EFB batteries as being similar to AGM, requiring the same profiles even going so far as them being labelled as a "cheaper AGM betteries"

The Ineos installed system shows charge voltages of 14.8 being fed to the efb battery. I can't imagine they would do this if it was wrong for the battery

The 120s has the AGM profile wire connected. This lines up with the system charge voltages seen. Based on this I connected the AGM profile wire on the 250. Charge volatages to second battery without AGM profile wire connected are 14.4 with it connected 14.7.
 

ECrider

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The MXS10 (from thir website) says WET-MF-GEL-AGM-Ca/Ca batteries and also sates 4 voltages at up to 10A.
One of those voltages is 14.4V which is what the battery needs.
If you can set that, then I don't think you need a new charger, CTEK are good, probably the best.

My question is, why do you need to externaly charge the battery ?
Thanks. I need put the batteries on charge on occasion when I travel. Sometimes can be away a month so it's nice to have it charging/floating them while I'm away. I assume this is good practice.
 
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No disrespect intended, trying to understand how to get my stuff right. Where did you get this information?

The many and various reports I have read when trying to decide on connecting the agm profile wire of the 250se, show EFB batteries as being similar to AGM, requiring the same profiles even going so far as them being labelled as a "cheaper AGM betteries"
The Ineos installed system shows charge voltages of 14.8 being fed to the efb battery. I can't imagine they would do this if it was wrong for the battery
The 120s has the AGM profile wire connected. This lines up with the system charge voltages seen. Based on this I connected the AGM profile wire on the 250. Charge volatages to second battery without AGM profile wire connected are 14.4 with it connected 14.7.

Hi

None taken.
There are lots of refernces online (see below).

My friend (now retired) was working for Leamington Spa Batteries (I think it was part of the Shield group), he tolkd me many stories of damaged batteries duee to misscharging etc, failed alternators and using the wrong charger were the most common, especially on the newer Gel/AGM batteries.
Not fully understanding the 'C'rate or what happens as the battery disharges and charges and how this effects its longevity etc.
It does become pretty complex and I often need to get hold of Alistair to clarify/comprehend.

We have been chatting about batteries and i have been discussing some of the issues that have arisen (cars unable to start in the middle of the woods etc).
The system seems to be extremely/overly complex on the Grenny which in part is because the car needs to meet some stringent emmissions criteria.
I did encourage users to get these cheap battery monitors so we could share data and see if the system was actually charging the battery/batteries as intended.
We got some data but the threads were interrupted and the data dwindled out/was derailed by a couple of members who felt that having a U$10 device wasn't good enough and you needed a US100 device.


 

simonpa

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Hi

None taken.
There are lots of refernces online (see below).

My friend (now retired) was working for Leamington Spa Batteries (I think it was part of the Shield group), he tolkd me many stories of damaged batteries duee to misscharging etc, failed alternators and using the wrong charger were the most common, especially on the newer Gel/AGM batteries.
Not fully understanding the 'C'rate or what happens as the battery disharges and charges and how this effects its longevity etc.
It does become pretty complex and I often need to get hold of Alistair to clarify/comprehend.

We have been chatting about batteries and i have been discussing some of the issues that have arisen (cars unable to start in the middle of the woods etc).
The system seems to be extremely/overly complex on the Grenny which in part is because the car needs to meet some stringent emmissions criteria.
I did encourage users to get these cheap battery monitors so we could share data and see if the system was actually charging the battery/batteries as intended.
We got some data but the threads were interrupted and the data dwindled out/was derailed by a couple of members who felt that having a U$10 device wasn't good enough and you needed a US100 device.



Having followed these recent comments which charger ( Uk ) would you recommend for a single battery Grenadier Station Wagon ?

Thanks
Simon
 

K1LL3M

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Hi

None taken.
There are lots of refernces online (see below).

My friend (now retired) was working for Leamington Spa Batteries (I think it was part of the Shield group), he tolkd me many stories of damaged batteries duee to misscharging etc, failed alternators and using the wrong charger were the most common, especially on the newer Gel/AGM batteries.
Not fully understanding the 'C'rate or what happens as the battery disharges and charges and how this effects its longevity etc.
It does become pretty complex and I often need to get hold of Alistair to clarify/comprehend.

We have been chatting about batteries and i have been discussing some of the issues that have arisen (cars unable to start in the middle of the woods etc).
The system seems to be extremely/overly complex on the Grenny which in part is because the car needs to meet some stringent emmissions criteria.
I did encourage users to get these cheap battery monitors so we could share data and see if the system was actually charging the battery/batteries as intended.
We got some data but the threads were interrupted and the data dwindled out/was derailed by a couple of members who felt that having a U$10 device wasn't good enough and you needed a US100 device.


Thanks for the info. I had read all but one of those in my quest to find an EFB charge profile. I think I am comfortable using the AGM profile as only 1 doc reports a max 14.4 for the batteries, and I feel that is incorrect.

I dont have any data to confirm my observations but I spent quite a bit of time watching my charger and voltages and system and yes, I think the emissions side of things is an over complex problem with the batteries where the system does appear to like to keep the start battery around 85-90% for the smart alternator. the 250se addition helps boost that charge, but the emission stuff remains a problem which is why they dont have the smart alternator wire connected. I will connect that one day.

I have seen the 250 push current when the 120 is doing sfa (hard to tell exactly what). But charge volatages on second battery without agm profile wire are 14.4 with profile wire 14.7. Main battery I think the max I have seen is 13.1

Frankly it is overly complicated, but I have been camping with solar for up to 5 days so far and have not had a problem. Until I do, I will play their game. If I have a problem, I will bin it all and put a more traditional 2 battery system in.
 
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Having followed these recent comments which charger ( Uk ) would you recommend for a single battery Grenadier Station Wagon ?

Thanks
Simon

It's not really my place to 'recommend' but you do need a modern 'smart charger'.
The CTEK MXS10 fits that profile. there are other makes out there.
Ring, Clarke, Sealey and this one from Draper which is probably the one I would choose as spending over £100 on a battery charger seems a bit OTT

 
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