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Auxiliary Battery setup components

Go to a trusted auto electrician and get their advice.
 
There's Good News and Not So Good News: Good News: Adding an auxiliary battery to manage a car fridge/CB radio/ camping lights etc is not a great obstacle and well within the capabilities of a local automotive electrician.

Not so good news: If you are contemplating copying the setup as per vehicles which have the so-called "electrical preparation" including additional start battery as an auxiliary.. then sadly: NO. This option was added in during assembly and has additional heavy duty wiring front and rear, additional busbars, fuses, switches, outlets etc as well as software implications. Furthermore there is as yet no easily obtainable wiring diagram...( waiting....waiting)
The wiring- aux battery option, the "Rough Pack" (f/r locking diffs) and the Safari windows were the three "now or never" major options which had to be specified in advance.
 
There's Good News and Not So Good News: Good News: Adding an auxiliary battery to manage a car fridge/CB radio/ camping lights etc is not a great obstacle and well within the capabilities of a local automotive electrician.

Not so good news: If you are contemplating copying the setup as per vehicles which have the so-called "electrical preparation" including additional start battery as an auxiliary.. then sadly: NO. This option was added in during assembly and has additional heavy duty wiring front and rear, additional busbars, fuses, switches, outlets etc as well as software implications. Furthermore there is as yet no easily obtainable wiring diagram...( waiting....waiting)
The wiring- aux battery option, the "Rough Pack" (f/r locking diffs) and the Safari windows were the three "now or never" major options which had to be specified in advance.

Thank you for the good news.

And yes sadly Ineos customer support confirmed the same bad news.
 
Thank you for the good news.

And yes sadly Ineos customer support confirmed the same bad news.
Do you have the switch panel and no aux battery which was always an option or did you do with no aux battery and no aux switch panel?
 
Do you have the switch panel and no aux battery which was always an option or did you do with no aux battery and no aux switch panel?
I bought it without the AUX battery and without the AUX switch panel.

The switch panel is not important. I’m just looking for a way to do the aux battery setup just like the factory, to run as a backup and for the fridge.
 
That is easy to do just need to get the pieces. You can get a dc dc to charge the battery and it adds solar, get a fuse block, another battery and then get plugs. You can always buy something like a control hub which gives you many of the things you need since you aren't running high power accessories. Also you can buy a switch pro if you are looking to be able to control it on the fly.
 
Fairly easy and straight forward, however, if you aren't comfortable just find a competent off-road/overland shop who has experience in it. There is a lot of room for fitting an aux battery, DC-DC charger, etc; the options are almost endless to suit your needs (EFB/AGM or LiFePO4, capacities, etc).
 
There are several longer threads here in the forum where owners have posted labelled images of the underseat battery compartment when fitted with and without the second battery. You can probably come pretty close to duplicating the system if you search around. For example - LittleFuse makes the bus bars and sells them to the public and the Ctek unit is available over the counter as well.
 
I got my Fieldmaster without the Auxiliary Battery and now I regret that.

Is it easy to add that now? What components I need to buy?
I am in a similar situation,bought intending to fit Lithium as an auxillary.Have the Ctek 120s and 250se and the plate to join them but no original mount for the 120s and ,of course, no securing bracket for the auxillary battery.Local agent does not have a parts diagram so unable to order from Ineos.....any one have either of these items surplus to their requirements?
 
I am in a similar situation,bought intending to fit Lithium as an auxillary.Have the Ctek 120s and 250se and the plate to join them but no original mount for the 120s and ,of course, no securing bracket for the auxillary battery.Local agent does not have a parts diagram so unable to order from Ineos.....any one have either of these items surplus to their requirements?
Do you have a photo of what is installed under your rear seats? I am no sure what you are missing, as I thought all AU models came with a 120S and hence a mounting bracket (so that must be wrong).

If you do not have a battery retaining bracket for the second battery; a universal battery bracket may work, like the ORD Universal Battery Bracket or this here and other examples here and here. Choose your battery, find a universal bracket that will work with your chosen battery and a decent mechanic, fabricator or a good DYIer could make it fit.

Dan (aka ninetubes) managed to fit a Lithium battery into the area.
 
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I am in a similar situation,bought intending to fit Lithium as an auxillary.Have the Ctek 120s and 250se and the plate to join them but no original mount for the 120s and ,of course, no securing bracket for the auxillary battery.Local agent does not have a parts diagram so unable to order from Ineos.....any one have either of these items surplus to their requirements?
If you're doing the rest of the system, the brackets to secure everything should be an easy solution, the threaded bolts/holes all exist in the chassis
 
I have the switch panel, but not the aux battery. Frankly, it didn't make any sense to pay that much for a measly 1kwh of extra power. I plan to put a 5kwh lifepo4 pack in the trunk and run it through the switch panel back to the main bus. Only real wiring I'll need to add is a main battery disconnect because I don't want the pack charging the main battery when I have it on.
 
I have the switch panel, but not the aux battery. Frankly, it didn't make any sense to pay that much for a measly 1kwh of extra power. I plan to put a 5kwh lifepo4 pack in the trunk and run it through the switch panel back to the main bus. Only real wiring I'll need to add is a main battery disconnect because I don't want the pack charging the main battery when I have it on.
I gotta ask... what's your plan for 400Ah??
 
Now I'm even more confused about why so much storage for winch operation, when you're completely fine with <100Ah of SLA for winching operations
 
You will need 2 brackets for the spare battery, one goes on the side and the other toward the front. I have installed a redarc battery isolator that joins the 2 when needed automatically, or with a switch. Pretty sure Ineos wired everything to essentially run off the starting battery, and the 2nd battery is for back up only, which is essentially the way I have everything ran. I relocated my subwoofer to the middle section of the under seat compartment to make room for the 2nd battery.
 

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Robert pepper doing the lords work. I was reading through the comments from his second interview. Someone posted saying that Robert was taking it easy on Justin. The commentator mentioned the dual battery system. Robert replied that he has an interview with the UK Ineos technician around the battery set up. Why did they do it the way they did, why no lithium and why didn't they put a isolator in. He also asks about the NATO plug. Robert says he will he releasing the video soon. Then Robert commented that he also has a video coming out about the new CTEK charger and interview with CTEK.

Robert is our inside man right now.
 
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There's Good News and Not So Good News: Good News: Adding an auxiliary battery to manage a car fridge/CB radio/ camping lights etc is not a great obstacle and well within the capabilities of a local automotive electrician.

Not so good news: If you are contemplating copying the setup as per vehicles which have the so-called "electrical preparation" including additional start battery as an auxiliary.. then sadly: NO. This option was added in during assembly and has additional heavy duty wiring front and rear, additional busbars, fuses, switches, outlets etc as well as software implications. Furthermore there is as yet no easily obtainable wiring diagram...( waiting....waiting)
The wiring- aux battery option, the "Rough Pack" (f/r locking diffs) and the Safari windows were the three "now or never" major options which had to be specified in advance.

It should be a breeze using a battery integrator, I have one in my Toyota 70s series, and it works great. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2659887949...d=link&campid=5338980679&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
 
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