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Underbody Protection from Rival

grnamin

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I am having some trouble with installing the Rival engine transmission case skid plate.

The center beam that fits between the frame is slightly too long to fit. Should I use a rubber mallet or am I doing something wrong?

Thanks.

Edit: I flipped it around so that the open end is to the rear. It fits now.
Does the beam fit with or without the included spacers?
 

74CampySuperRecord

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Does the beam fit with or without the included spacers?
It definitely wouldn’t fit with the included spacers. I did not use them.

Flipping the beam around seems to fit better.

The included instructions do not have the best pictures.
 

grnamin

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It definitely wouldn’t fit with the included spacers. I did not use them.

Flipping the beam around seems to fit better.

The included instructions do not have the best pictures.
Yes, the final picture didn't have the bolts installed so one couldn't tell if the work was done right.
 

74CampySuperRecord

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Any idea when they will get the next batch in stock?
No idea. I somehow was able to pre-order about a month ago on their site.

Their transfer case skid plate is available for pre-order, though.
 

Loc Nar

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Okay, y'all, I have plenty of tips for installing the Engine and Transfer Skid plates based upon issues I encountered (and conquered!) - some more useful than others. Let's first start with some things that made the install easier for me.

6,500 lb. rated ramps plus rubber chocks from Harbor Freight

20240803_064321.jpg



Next up - my helping hands - two 4 ton Heavy Duty Bottle Jacks (from Harbor Freight) plus (from Amazon) two 1" Quad Heavy Duty Rubber Cane Tips (fit perfectly snug):

20240820_194542.jpg


And now for something that did not make the install easier, but was something I just wanted to do, because it did not appear that the supplied hardware (nuts, bolts, etc.) was particularly corrosion resistant:

20240804_073751.jpg


I painted the threads of every bolt used with this stuff.

Now, on to the install. I started with the Transfer Case Skid Plate because I'm a goddam masochist. I looked over the parts, part list, and instructions and just knew Step 1 (Deez Nutserts) was going to be a barrel of laughs. I figured I might as well tackle this while I'm fresh. The fun started by realizing the wire had snapped off one of my wired nutserts. Some superglue gel and a clamp restored that, and I added a square of duct tape right on top of the bond to hold it true. I also added a small piece of duct tape to the wired nutsert still in one piece. Getting this going, I carefully straightened out the wire, crawled underneath and gently threaded the wire down the beam - only to find out in short order that the wire is too DAMN SHORT to feed the nutsert to the hole. So, I carefully withdrew it, went and found a wired coat hanger, cut six or so inches off and duct taped it to the end of the nutsert wire (I did this to both wired nutserts). Now we were cooking with gas:

20240803_071259.jpg


You can see by comparing the length of coat hanger wire in the beam (which is in all the way to the end of the duct tape wrap) to the nutsert peeking through the hole that the supplied wire was just too short:
20240803_071410.jpg


Now, the next fun part is threading the bolt into the nutsert when you have no back pressure on it. I tried pushing up to find something to press against - no dice. You have to be really patient and careful here. It's a delicate dance. Slow is smooth and smooth is fast. After some trial and error and cussing, I learned that not all bolts play well with all nuts. As a result, it helps to test fit the nuts and bolts to find matches you know work before you are on your back trying to carefully get the threads lined up correctly in the hole without cross threading. I also found that with some of the fits, the bolt would screw in easily a few turns and then just come to a screeching halt, which made you think you were cross threaded. In one such situation, I tried screwing the bolt in from the back side of the nutsert and that seemed to improve things slightly when I tried the front again. Even with all of that work and after many tries, I still hit a wall with one of the nutserts and, I'm not proud to say I ended up just powering through that one with the torque wrench and *fingers crossed* everything appeared to turn out all right.

Also - in the pic above - see that small hole right above the nutsert peeking through? I figured out that's where you will want to stick the pointy end of a Phillips screwdriver when you tighten the bolt so that the bar of the nutsert will hit against it as you turn the bolt and give you the leverage you need to screw it down tight (when it's time to do so!). I told you this was fun! One more thing, when the dumb instructions say, such as in Step 2, "Loosen bolts M10x30 with washers 10 (item B, C) into insert nuts M10 from step 1" they mean to just insert the bolts (with washers fixed) enough rotations to get them going but don't tighten them all the way down.

Step 3, attaching the beam, was a piece of cake. Below is a pic right before Step 4 - installing the skid plate. You can see Permatex on the threads on the nutsert bolts. After I secured the plate, it was easy to just pull the wires off the nutserts, which reinforces how careful you have to be threading them through in the first place.

20240803_082642.jpg


Step 5 is another legit pain in the ass. Finding the rubber plug you need to remove is easy. I used a flathead screwdriver to start to pop it out and it was easy to pull out. Inserting the flanged nutsert (F in the Installation manual) was a ton of fun.

You have to fold out the flanges around the nutsert so that they are poking out of the hole while you try to insert it. Lots of fiddling here and make damn sure you do not insert the nutsert and the flanges all the way in the hole. I accidentally did that once and had to use some needle nose pliers to grab the flange and pull it back out. After you get it positioned, you have to hold onto a flange poking out of the hole and the mounting plate you are trying to affix while you attempt the again delicate maneuver of slowly and carefully docking the bolt with the nose of the cone like some damn Apollo 13 astronaut. The flange gives you the ability to exert a little back pressure, but not much and the damn thing is constantly at an angle (due to the flange poking through the hole), so you have to carefully angle the bolt to match it as you try to thread it in. After that is done, you can clip the exposed flanges off the nutsert with a wire cutter and shove the clipped ends in the hole with a flathead screwdriver. I took no pics of this process. Like a colonoscopy, it's just something you have to experience for yourself.

Everything else went on pretty easily - though here are a few more tips. When the instructions say don't tighten, they mean it. I learned that pretty quickly when I got to step 7 to install the additional skid plate and could not get anything to line up, because I had tightened bolts in earlier steps too much. Even loosened, I had to do some fiddling to make everything line up just right. Also, the instructions don't tell you clearly, but the bolts in Step 7 go from the top down through the holes. I could not use the torque wrench to tighten both of these because the space was too tight, and had to purchase an angled M10 wrench to screw them home and just tightened by hand to what I felt was around 34.7 lb./ft.

DONE!!!

Next up, the Engine Skid Plate. This one was easier, but there were still some surprises. First off, I'm embarrassed to say it took me longer than it should have to figure out where the hell the arrows were pointing to in the Rorschach image in Figure 1 Step 1. This is it (make sure you have a good flashlight handy - one with a magnetic base is even better):

20240804_071039.jpg


Like 74CampySuperRecord said, the spacers are too big to use when installing the beam in Step 3. The helping hands worked a treat with this step:

20240804_073533.jpg


After a lot of screwing around trying to face the open end of the beam towards the front and then towards the back to see if the spacers would fit in any orientation, I gave up on that idea. However, because I could see there was still a gap between the beam and whatever the hell I was bolting it to, I figured I needed to fill that gap. So, I went to Lowe's and picked up two 5-packs of Hilman M10 washers that looked like they would fit the space perfectly (for size comparison, the washer fit perfectly within the spacers provided):

20240820_205746.jpg


I ended up using six - three per side - and this seemed to fit and work great (the three washers are out of focus but you get the idea):

20240804_090951.jpg


Size comparison between three washers stacked and the spacers provided:

20240820_190154.jpg


Everything else was pretty straightforward, though remember to be mindful not to overly tighten anything down until the instructions tell you to do so.

FINIS!

20240804_173703.jpg


Bonus Pic! While I was under there, I took a pic of the Transfer Case Cable clamp, and it seemed fairly stout and secure? Maybe an upgrade from prior models?

20240803_074320.jpg


Have fun, y'all!
 
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grnamin

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I wish I had access to a hydraulic lift. The Harbor Freight ramps and jack stands are the next best thing. @Loc Nar , any reason not to use 4 ramps instead?
 

Loc Nar

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I wish I had access to a hydraulic lift. The Harbor Freight ramps and jack stands are the next best thing. @Loc Nar , any reason not to use 4 ramps instead?
Because my driveway is slightly sloped towards the front (see first pic above), I was able to just use two in the rear to give me the space I needed. Also, I would have a little concern using four, because I don't know how well those rubber chocks would fit under a tire on a ramp. Not sure whether the ramp instructions say only to use two.
 

DaBull

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Okay, y'all, I have plenty of tips for installing the Engine and Transfer Skid plates based upon issues I encountered (and conquered!) - some more useful than others. Let's first start with some things that made the install easier for me.

6,500 lb. rated ramps plus rubber chocks from Harbor Freight

View attachment 7867404


Next up - my helping hands - two 4 ton Heavy Duty Bottle Jacks (from Harbor Freight) plus (from Amazon) two 1" Quad Heavy Duty Rubber Cane Tips (fit perfectly snug):

View attachment 7867409

And now for something that did not make the install easier, but was something I just wanted to do, because it did not appear that the supplied hardware (nuts, bolts, etc.) was particularly corrosion resistant:

View attachment 7867410

I painted the threads of every bolt used with this stuff.

Now, on to the install. I started with the Transfer Case Skid Plate because I'm a goddam masochist. I looked over the parts, part list, and instructions and just knew Step 1 (Deez Nutserts) was going to be a barrel of laughs. I figured I might as well tackle this while I'm fresh. The fun started by realizing the wire had snapped off one of my wired nutserts. Some superglue gel and a clamp restored that, and I added a square of duct tape right on top of the bond to hold it true. I also added a small piece of duct tape to the wired nutsert still in one piece. Getting this going, I carefully straightened out the wire, crawled underneath and gently threaded the wire down the beam - only to find out in short order that the wire is too DAMN SHORT to feed the nutsert to the hole. So, I carefully withdrew it, went and found a wired coat hanger, cut six or so inches off and duct taped it to the end of the nutsert wire (I did this to both wired nutserts). Now we were cooking with gas:

View attachment 7867412

You can see by comparing the length of coat hanger wire in the beam (which is in all the way to the end of the duct tape wrap) to the nutsert peeking through the hole that the supplied wire was just too short:
View attachment 7867413

Now, the next fun part is threading the bolt into the nutsert when you have no back pressure on it. I tried pushing up to find something to press against - no dice. You have to be really patient and careful here. It's a delicate dance. Slow is smooth and smooth is fast. After some trial and error and cussing, I learned that not all bolts play well with all nuts. As a result, it helps to test fit the nuts and bolts to find matches you know work before you are on your back trying to carefully get the threads lined up correctly in the hole without cross threading. I also found that with some of the fits, the bolt would screw in easily a few turns and then just come to a screeching halt, which made you think you were cross threaded. In one such situation, I tried screwing the bolt in from the back side of the nutsert and that seemed to improve things slightly when I tried the front again. Even with all of that work and after many tries, I still hit a wall with one of the nutserts and, I'm not proud to say I ended up just powering through that one with the torque wrench and *fingers crossed* everything appeared to turn out all right.

Also - in the pic above - see that small hole right above the nutsert peeking through? I figured out that's where you will want to stick the pointy end of a Phillips screwdriver when you tighten the bolt so that the bar of the nutsert will hit against it as you turn the bolt and give you the leverage you need to screw it down tight (when it's time to do so!). I told you this was fun! One more thing, when the dumb instructions say, such as in Step 2, "Loosen bolts M10x30 with washers 10 (item B, C) into insert nuts M10 from step 1" they mean to just insert the bolts (with washers fixed) enough rotations to get them going but don't tighten them all the way down.

Step 3, attaching the beam, was a piece of cake. Below is a pic right before Step 4 - installing the skid plate. You can see Permatex on the threads on the nutsert bolts. After I secured the plate, it was easy to just pull the wires off the nutserts, which reinforces how careful you have to be threading them through in the first place.

View attachment 7867419

Step 5 is another legit pain in the ass. Finding the rubber plug you need to remove is easy. I used a flathead screwdriver to start to pop it out and it was easy to pull out. Inserting the flanged nutsert (F in the Installation manual) was a ton of fun.

You have to fold out the flanges around the nutsert so that they are poking out of the hole while you try to insert it. Lots of fiddling here and make damn sure you do not insert the nutsert and the flanges all the way in the hole. I accidentally did that once and had to use some needle nose pliers to grab the flange and pull it back out. After you get it positioned, you have to hold onto a flange poking out of the hole and the mounting plate you are trying to affix while you attempt the again delicate maneuver of slowly and carefully docking the bolt with the nose of the cone like some damn Apollo 13 astronaut. The flange gives you the ability to exert a little back pressure, but not much and the damn thing is constantly at an angle, so you have to carefully angle the bolt to match it as you try to thread it in. After that is done, you can clip the exposed flanges off the nutsert with a wire cutter and shove the clipped ends in the hole with a flathead screwdriver. I took no pics of this process. Like a colonoscopy, it's just something you have to experience for yourself.

Everything else went on pretty easily - though here are a few more tips. When the instructions say don't tighten, they mean it. I learned that pretty quickly when I got to step 7 to install the additional skid plate and could not get anything to line up, because I had tightened bolts in earlier steps too much. Even loosened, I had to do some fiddling to make everything line up just right. Also, the instructions don't tell you clearly, but the bolts in Step 7 go from the top down through the holes. I could not use the torque wrench to tighten both of these because the space was too tight, and had to purchase an angled M10 wrench to screw them home and just tightened by hand to what I felt was around 34.7 lb./ft.

DONE!!!

Next up, the Engine Skid Plate. This one was easier, but there were still some surprises. First off, I'm embarrassed to say it took me longer than it should have to figure out where the hell the arrows were pointing to in Figure 1 Step 1.

Like 74CampySuperRecord said, the spacers are too big to use when installing the beam in Step 3. The helping hands worked a treat with this step:

View attachment 7867420

After a lot of screwing around trying to face the open end of the beam towards the front and then towards the back to see if the spacers would fit in any orientation, I gave up on that idea. However, because I could see there was still a gap between the beam and whatever the hell I was bolting it to, I figured I needed to fill that gap. So, I went to Lowe's and picked up two 5-packs of Hilman M10 washers that looked like they would fit the space perfectly (for size comparison, the washer fit perfectly within the spacers provided):

View attachment 7867421

I ended up using six - three per side - and this seemed to fit and work great (the three washers are out of focus but you get the idea):

View attachment 7867423

Everything else was pretty straightforward, though remember to be mindful not to overly tighten anything down until the instructions tell you to do so.

FINIS!

View attachment 7867424

Bonus Pic! While I was under there, I took a pic of the Transfer Case Cable clamp, and it seemed fairly stout and secure? Maybe an upgrade from prior models?

View attachment 7867425

Have fun, y'all!
Hi Loc Nar, Just received one set from Rival. Waiting for the other. Thanks for posting your funnier then hell install. I know it's going to be super helpful and hopefully I will be grinning and laughing the whole time as I tackle this. Glad you went first. DaBull
 

Loc Nar

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Hi Loc Nar, Just received one set from Rival. Waiting for the other. Thanks for posting your funnier then hell install. I know it's going to be super helpful and hopefully I will be grinning and laughing the whole time as I tackle this. Glad you went first. DaBull
You got this! Happy to help and I look forward to hearing about your hard won tips!
 

LeonD

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Received the engine skid plate from Rival, very well built, and I am impressed and pleased. Attempted to install and encountered similar issues with the center beam. It simply is to long, close but still too long. Forget the spacer(s), the beam is too long. I assume that the spacers were apart of the design to accommodate slight variations in the frame.

I flipped the center beam, rotated it and I was able to attach it. But, I was unable to rotate the center beam so that the two welded M10 nuts on the center beam lined up with the skid plate and as a result the two M10x30 bolts. I could have but did not pound the center beam in place. Instead I removed all items assembled and contacted Rival. Rival responded quickly, which I always appreciate.

Rival responded with the following: The US team is aware of minor variations on the Ineos frame. Seems like no reports from EU market yet. For the cross beam in step 3 we are advising those with tight fitment to not use any spacers between the beam and the frame. In rare instances where the beam does not fit at all the US warehouse will be sending out replacement beams as soon as they arrive to them next month. For the time being, if you are comfortable, you can grind down the cross beam to create the clearance you need to fit it between the frame. We apologize for any inconvenience this has caused, but rest assured we will do everything we can to make it right.

I placed an order for the replacement center beam.
 

Loc Nar

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Tough break, LeonD. I know that was frustrating, but it's great to see such a prompt and professional response from Rival.
 

LeonD

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Tough break, LeonD. I know that was frustrating, but it's great to see such a prompt and professional response from Rival.
Agreed, it is a welcome response from Rival. I waited several months for the skid plates, I can wait a few more. In the mean time I will just admire the quality of the aluminum skid plate in my garage. It truly is a nice piece. Who knows, maybe I will pull it out to celebrate "festivis" in December :)

The story of festivis:
View: https://youtu.be/1njzgXSzA-A
 

Krabby

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…for the rest of us.
 

e_k_powell

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I installed my engine skid last night. Took about 30 min. Used blue loctite for all the bolts and torqued to 35 ft-lb. The instructions appear to show the center beam open face to the front of vehicle but mine fit better the opposite way. Spacers wouldn’t fit on the ends but I used three Grade 8 washers on each end instead. The cross beam fit tight but there was still a gap between end of beam and the frame rail on the edge and the washers filled that gap. Nice product for a little extra protection but I don’t think it will hold up too well for heavy rock crawling. I had UnderCover Fab 3/8” 6061-T6 aluminum skids under the 2017 Rubicon Recon and I felt very confident with those. Not as much with these but that rig was built for rock crawling. My Grenadier is a deer lease, camping, light trail vehicle for me and the Rival skids will work just fine for that.
 

nuclearbeef

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Received the engine skid plate from Rival, very well built, and I am impressed and pleased. Attempted to install and encountered similar issues with the center beam. It simply is to long, close but still too long. Forget the spacer(s), the beam is too long. I assume that the spacers were apart of the design to accommodate slight variations in the frame.

I flipped the center beam, rotated it and I was able to attach it. But, I was unable to rotate the center beam so that the two welded M10 nuts on the center beam lined up with the skid plate and as a result the two M10x30 bolts. I could have but did not pound the center beam in place. Instead I removed all items assembled and contacted Rival. Rival responded quickly, which I always appreciate.

Rival responded with the following: The US team is aware of minor variations on the Ineos frame. Seems like no reports from EU market yet. For the cross beam in step 3 we are advising those with tight fitment to not use any spacers between the beam and the frame. In rare instances where the beam does not fit at all the US warehouse will be sending out replacement beams as soon as they arrive to them next month. For the time being, if you are comfortable, you can grind down the cross beam to create the clearance you need to fit it between the frame. We apologize for any inconvenience this has caused, but rest assured we will do everything we can to make it right.

I placed an order for the replacement center beam.
I installed mine yesterday. The beam would not fit in any orientation, so I took the grinder to it.
I probably took off 1/8" or less on each end.
Not across the entire face of the end plate, but just on the lower forward corner of each end.
I did not use spacers or washers.
 

LeonD

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I installed my engine skid last night. Took about 30 min. Used blue loctite for all the bolts and torqued to 35 ft-lb. The instructions appear to show the center beam open face to the front of vehicle but mine fit better the opposite way. Spacers wouldn’t fit on the ends but I used three Grade 8 washers on each end instead. The cross beam fit tight but there was still a gap between end of beam and the frame rail on the edge and the washers filled that gap. Nice product for a little extra protection but I don’t think it will hold up too well for heavy rock crawling. I had UnderCover Fab 3/8” 6061-T6 aluminum skids under the 2017 Rubicon Recon and I felt very confident with those. Not as much with these but that rig was built for rock crawling. My Grenadier is a deer lease, camping, light trail vehicle for me and the Rival skids will work just fine for that.
Agreed. I purchased it to provide some protection for the plastic transmission pan. There is a post on the forum where a stick punctured the transmission pan. Yikes.

 

Ovrland Bill

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Had mine installed today and the tech also had an issue with the center beam.
 

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I just installed mine an hour ago. Pretty easy except the center beam as others have called out. I had to trim the edge with a angle grinder, about 5mm or 1/8" of an inch on the corner where the bar meets the frame on both sides. Once cut and polished I realized I had no paint at home except some old touchup paint for my metallic blue Volvo xc90.

The ends of the middle bar is now a lovely shade of Volvo blue...

It came together easily after that. I really like the quality of the kit, for what I'm doing this is going to be great!

Pinged Rival today about the gas tank protection, they say that its likely not until past thanksgiving.
 
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AUDIOBUS

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I'm with @parb and @LeonD -- An easy install that would have been easier if the crossmember fit. Nothing that a 4 pound hammer couldn't remedy ... sometimes, you do need a bigger hammer! It took about 4 test fits, noting where it was binding, then to the bench for some forced alterations. No room for any washers or the spacers, after "fitting" it's pretty flush, orientation per instructions.

Now that the transmission pan is protected, (as noted elsewhere...) it's time for some FUN because it's way too clean under here!

Checked the driveshaft while I was under there--looks fine. Boot's good, not a drop of oil anywhere.

RivalSkid.JPG
 
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