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Cable rubbing on prop shaft

Skydance

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Following on from someone who kindly posted cables rubbing on their prop shaft. I found mine in the same situation. Caught it just in the nick of time and good job it’s not worn straight through. I urge people to take a look just in case. What is this metal protected wire called? It runs above the prop shaft in right in front of the black central chassis cross bar. Noticed the cable fixing has broken off. Going in for a service next week with a long list. They will love me. I seem to posting lots of negative issues and fixes lately. Thanks to this forum, I think knowledge we gain and share is fantastic. The dealers should take a look. I want to let everyone know I absolutely love my Grenadier. It’s a tank and I absolutely love it. These issues is what gives it character!!
 

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Kevin Mokracek

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The hose hitting my drive shaft coupling didn't have a metal covering so probably a different hose. Mine had already worn a groove in the hose but luckily had not worn through. It was causing a extremely loud rattle that sounded like it was coming from the right front wheel area so it took me a while to find it since it was nowhere near that area.
 

Tom109

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It that one of the t-case shit cables? Mine does not have the silver heat shielding, only the plastic jacket. But I have a ‘24my.
 

Skydance

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I’m not sure what this cable is called, it a silver shielded cable that is right in front of the chassis cross bar towards the engine. It’s worn a groove in it but not gone through, thank god.
 

Lars

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I've been under my truck several times now after postings like this. The picture looks like the large diameter hard plastic hose from the transfer case going forward (breather??). It's within 0.5 inch of the front driveshaft, but I just don't see any other wires or hoses even close to the driveshafts. Is there differences in models? Mine is a gasoline trialmaster.
Now I'm obsessing about it!!
 

Kevin Mokracek

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I've been under my truck several times now after postings like this. The picture looks like the large diameter hard plastic hose from the transfer case going forward (breather??). It's within 0.5 inch of the front driveshaft, but I just don't see any other wires or hoses even close to the driveshafts. Is there differences in models? Mine is a gasoline trialmaster.
Now I'm obsessing about it!!
No difference in models, I think some just didn’t have the hoses secured properly at the factory. In my case the hose was like yours and when it hit a bump or was on a rough road the hose would hit the hex head nuts on the driveshaft coupling. I used a few zip ties to secure it.
 

bakepl

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In the below images the first shows the black plastic cable retainer that tends to drop off it's keeper - cable then has propensity to drop down and rub on shaft - caught mine just in time. Second image shows fix by SLRV who were superb and made this metal cable retainer/clamp up within an hour or so of chatting with them - the retainer is locked on with a nut and will not drop off.

cable fixing.jpeg
cable bracket markup.jpg
 

Skydance

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I've been under my truck several times now after postings like this. The picture looks like the large diameter hard plastic hose from the transfer case going forward (breather??). It's within 0.5 inch of the front driveshaft, but I just don't see any other wires or hoses even close to the driveshafts. Is there differences in models? Mine is a gasoline trialmaster.
Now I'm obsessing about it!!
Mines diesel. Front and rear lockers.
 

Tazzieman

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The cable above the front shaft in the original picture has about 1 1/2 finger width clearance when the cable is secured next to the transfer case.
Use a 7mm cable tie and never have to worry about it.
In fact, use 7mm cable ties for everything important!
 

Clark Kent

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The cable above the front shaft in the original picture has about 1 1/2 finger width clearance when the cable is secured next to the transfer case.
Use a 7mm cable tie and never have to worry about it.
In fact, use 7mm cable ties for everything important!
As my aircraft design engineer friend would say: "Triple redundancy in tandem if it's really important".
 

globalgregors

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No difference in models, I think some just didn’t have the hoses secured properly at the factory. In my case the hose was like yours and when it hit a bump or was on a rough road the hose would hit the hex head nuts on the driveshaft coupling. I used a few zip ties to secure it.
There’s certainly a difference in later deliveries versus early. We had the issue described by @Skydance however when I was under a later delivery I see the cable and routing are both changed versus what we have.

Ours came free as described above on the first trip, an issue that I found and resolved by pure luck chasing a rattle.
The rattle proved to be nothing more than a piece of gravel caught and making a racket on the cross member.

I’m thinking you guys stateside would all be getting the later Bowden cable configuration.

As @Tazzieman mentioned, some additional cable ties are prudent on our early examples.
 

MTNDOG

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Other discussion about rattles. Cable bracket has broken on some.
 

Makers52129

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I have what sounds like the same rubbing sound occasionally! It seems to happen after a bump at lower speeds. Guess I’ll be under the car this weekend. Fun!
 

Lars

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No difference in models, I think some just didn’t have the hoses secured properly at the factory. In my case the hose was like yours and when it hit a bump or was on a rough road the hose would hit the hex head nuts on the driveshaft coupling. I used a few zip ties to secure it.
Something I'll keep an eye on...
 

bbq4133

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For folks who have zip tied the hell out of those cables, any pictures of your zip ties and where you're putting them?
 

Tazzieman

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For folks who have zip tied the hell out of those cables, any pictures of your zip ties and where you're putting them?
If you look at the lefy hand pic at the start of the thread you will notice a ziptie around the cable. Next to the transfer case. Pop another one here , or 2 if it doesn't have one.
And then gaze up at the ceiling and see if anything else is dangling or seems vulnerable.
 

Logsplitter

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The fix on my Grenadier I will change the fixing on the top of the second photo to match the pipe clamp on the bottom fixing when I get the vehicle back
4c5425e7-27ae-4492-a38c-fdb9c48a9d93.jpeg
3015c980-f74d-45e7-b0fb-b27a39440fdd.jpeg
 
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Similar Damage report, cautionary tale;
3 exhaust/emissions cables damaged (Diesel particulate sensor/NOX sensor/Exhaust temperature sensor), all ripped off (one lost, one pulled off at plug at one end and one severed in 2 revealing 8 different coloured wires inside, all severed. This occurred after driving along recently graded and slashed service trails in Koreelah national park on NSW/QLD border, and having a 800mm length of vine caught around the driveshaft and flailing until the cables were damaged. I was alerted by sound and smell. Engine warning light on . We respliced the remaining wires by the roadside not really knowing what they were, and the car performance was unaffected, except for the disconcerting amber engine warning light. $1100 replacement cost. Will be taking a very close look at all underbody cabling making sure to reduce slack and future opportunities for similar entanglements. Just really bad luck rather than bad design but some extra cable tying to minimse slack might be worthwhile.
 

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