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NATO socket jump start capability

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I remember from my times in military service that via a NATO socket basically every vehicle could jump start another. E.g. a Wolf (military G-wagon) could start a tank with drained batteries.

So does the NATO socket in the Grenadier has the same function? Supply power to an other vehicle (or implement like a winch) AND receive power to be jump started. Sorry if the question was already answered. Have not found anything on this special topic neither in the forum nor in the manual.

This is how this kind of jump start cable looks:
200899.jpg


Max
 

AnD3rew

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Short answer is that I don’t know, however it may depend on how flat the battery is, because to make the circuit live it depends on a relay and you have to switch the winch circuit on. If there isn’t enough juice to open the relay then it might not work.
 

Arkaig

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So does the NATO socket in the Grenadier has the same function? Supply power to an other vehicle (or implement like a winch) AND receive power to be jump started.

Max

Correct, or at least that is my understanding as to how it is meant to function.
 

bemax

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I remember from my times in military service that via a NATO socket basically every vehicle could jump start another. E.g. a Wolf (military G-wagon) could start a tank with drained batteries.

So does the NATO socket in the Grenadier has the same function? Supply power to an other vehicle (or implement like a winch) AND receive power to be jump started. Sorry if the question was already answered. Have not found anything on this special topic neither in the forum nor in the manual.

This is how this kind of jump start cable looks:
200899.jpg


Max
I guess that a really flat batterie will be a problem. But that is only a guess as I am not a car electriacan at all. I used the NATO Plug in my Defender some times to start other cars. But I had the typical pinces on the other side of the cable.
Anyway there are not enough cars wit a NATO plug out there. So it will not be usefull to carry such a cable.
 

DCPU

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Short answer is that I don’t know, however it may depend on how flat the battery is, because to make the circuit live it depends on a relay and you have to switch the winch circuit on. If there isn’t enough juice to open the relay then it might not work.
Exactly two relays if you lump the 30A winch pre-relay with the Albright solenoid it triggers. 👍

It has to be better/simpler just going off the MTA jump start connector under the bonnet. I haven't traced every inch of the cabling but suspect it's wired directly off the main battery positive.
 

muxmax

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IMG_2112.jpeg
I dug out this thread after trying to jump start another car today. Even at the risk of outing myself as the amateur that I am when it comes to electronics: what is the proper way to do that? Do I really have to uncover the starter battery or can I use the secondary battery or the jump start socket under the bonnet?

And, to close the circle to this thread, could I use a cable like that and simply jump the other car via the nato socket?
 

rovie

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Exactly. As I posted on another thread I started a Toyota Hilux that had a flat battery with my Nocoboost a few weeks back. A great bit of kit.
HI @Logsplitter which type of Noco Boost do you have?
 

marcusnilsson

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Have anyone of you had any issues opening the NATO socket?

I had my car at a (very) qualified workshop to get some work done, and they spent 2 hours trying to get the lid off. Without success. They had another ineos there and it was the same problem with that one.

They had a loose NATO socket to show how it was supposed to be opened, so I assume they understood the “mechanism”.

Known issue?
 

Jean Mercier

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Have anyone of you had any issues opening the NATO socket?

I had my car at a (very) qualified workshop to get some work done, and they spent 2 hours trying to get the lid off. Without success. They had another ineos there and it was the same problem with that one.

They had a loose NATO socket to show how it was supposed to be opened, so I assume they understood the “mechanism”.

Known issue?
Some week ago I tried to open it with my hand (as I did when I got my car), no way: I knew there was water inside the plug, and water = oxidation!
But I succeeded using a wrench.
 

Clark Kent

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Have anyone of you had any issues opening the NATO socket?

I had my car at a (very) qualified workshop to get some work done, and they spent 2 hours trying to get the lid off. Without success. They had another ineos there and it was the same problem with that one.

They had a loose NATO socket to show how it was supposed to be opened, so I assume they understood the “mechanism”.

Known issue?
I wouldn't call it a known issue but @DCPU noted some corrosion on the threads in this post.
If your vehicle has been in a corrosive environment then your cap might be corroded on. Road salt might be enough.
It could also be stiction between the cap and the gasket if the cap was overtightened.
Try some baby taps around the cap perimeter with a plastic mallet, or a light penetrating oil like WD-40.

If desperate, you could try applying a heat gun onto the center of the cap for a few seconds. You want just enough heat to cause the cap to release, which is likely about 5 seconds before the gasket melts.
Failing all that, it's time to bust out the slip jaw pliers but expect some cap damage.
I would apply a smear of rubber grease on the cap threads and gasket before refitting the cap.

Elke Technik Germany is the manufacturer.
 
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Tazzieman

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Closing the socket is a bit tricky given the soft threads. I painted some whiteout paint at 2 o'clock to prevent cross threading.
 

Tinerfeño

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Having jump started hundreds of cars I would like to point out some things:
  • Major problem is completely dead battery. Nothing is usually enough to overcome this.
  • Second problem are the clamps that are in all commercial jump start cables. As the current draw os starter motor is hundreds of A these clamps are not able to transfer anything even close to that. See below.
  • Next problem is voltage drop in cables. Small section area and long cable causes great voltage drop which prevents effective help. Typically at least the sectional area is too small in many cables. I like to use 50 mm2.
  • Cold weather adds challenge by lowering efficiency of battery and causing extra resistance to rotating parts. Pressing clutch helps in case of manual transmission as the gearbox doesn't need to rotate.
I have made fixed installation of these connectors to most of my cars with short 50 mm2 cables. The red one is classified to 350 A which is enough for starting purposes. A smaller grey (50 A) is used for freezer, compressor etc. Similar connectors on the receiving end of loose cables.

listaus_TRUKKILIITIN-SB175-KAKSINAPAINEN-PIN2-JOHTOON-600V_6329G6_2a37ae4916765c97d6fe9af2f2d8587d_1.jpg

What rating the NATO connector has? Anyhow there may be a problem with overall cable length. Total length: battery 1 -> car cables 1 -> loose cable -> car cables 2 - starter motor 2 will be over 10 metres x 2.

Voltage drop calculator:
 

muxmax

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I think I have to rephrase my earlier question a little more bluntly (and thus revealinig my ignorance): How do I help someone to jump start his car from my Grenadier? With the battery under the bonnet, that would be clear. But in the Grenadier, do I have to take the power from the battery under the seat (which means undoing the cover and all) or is there another, quicker way?
 

Lollo050968

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Maybe not the answer you want to hear: I have a noco jumpstarter everytime full charged with me. For my Grenadier, for others if needed. Less space than extra cables, faster than to park two cars beside. After use you can recharge with USB C while driving.
 
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