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Unused electrical connector (rear right)

Jean Mercier

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Have a rattling noise in the back of the car since some weeks. Therefore I dismounted my right rear trim this afternoon, to see if something behind it is loose. Had not done it before.

Anyone knows what this connector is for? (unused, 1.7 volts fluctuating when contact off, and 2.0 volts, fluctuating when motor running):
20231009_172927 what is this.jpg


The only thing that was loose was the cable powering the Albright relay (for powering the NATO plug):
20231009_173140 loose.jpg

You can notice the loose clip. there is hole where you can plug it in (not visible, I did it by feeling)

But this wasn't the cause of the rattling.
I think it is the other (left) side panel, where I broke two clips some months ago while dismounting, but not sure yet.
 
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Clark Kent

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Hi Jean. Firstly, thank you for the wealth of information you have contributed to this forum.
It looks like you have the towing option? On my vehicle most of the towbar wiring harness connects at the larger connector above. Pin 9 is supplied by a single 2.5mm green/purple 12v supply from the connector you have marked. I cannot recall if it is live 12v or ignition switched, probably the latter.
 

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Jean Mercier

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Clark Kent said:
Hi Jean. Firstly, thank you for the wealth of information you have contributed to this forum.
It looks like you have the towing option? On my vehicle most of the towbar wiring harness connects at the larger connector above. Pin 9 is supplied by a single 2.5mm green/purple 12v supply from the connector you have marked. I cannot recall if it is live 12v or ignition switched, probably the latter.
Click to expand...
Haha, thanks for the explanation.
No, I don't have the towing option!
That is why you have much more wires coming out of the bigger connector.
That seems indeed to be the purpose of the single wire connector. But even with ignition on I had only some 2 Volt on it!
 
Ragman

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Jean Mercier said:
Haha, thanks for the explanation.
No, I don't have the towing option!
That is why you have much more wires coming out of the bigger connector.
That seems indeed to be the purpose of the single wire connector. But even with ignition on I had only some 2 Volt on it!
Click to expand...
What is connected to the battery cables in the photos?
 
Jean Mercier

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Ragman said:
What is connected to the battery cables in the photos?
Click to expand...
as @DaBull explained, and for those who are less "electricity minded", here how it works:
20231009_173140 Albright Relay.jpg


When motor runs, a tension is applied (most probably 12V, low current) to the black and green wire of the "Albright" relay. Therefore the switch inside the black box closes (red lines), and 12V is passed through from the red battery cable to the red/black NATO plug cable.

If I forgot something, please correct me.
 
Eric

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Jean Mercier said:
Have a rattling noise in the back of the car since some weeks. Therefore I dismounted my right rear trim this afternoon, to see if something behind it is loose. Had not done it before.

Anyone knows what this connector is for? (unused, 1.7 volts fluctuating when contact off, and 2.0 volts, fluctuating when motor running):
View attachment 7829226
Click to expand...
Is that connector into the CANBUS circuit??
 
AWo

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Jean Mercier said:
Have a rattling noise in the back of the car since some weeks. Therefore I dismounted my right rear trim this afternoon, to see if something behind it is loose. Had not done it before.

Anyone knows what this connector is for? (unused, 1.7 volts fluctuating when contact off, and 2.0 volts, fluctuating when motor running):
View attachment 7829226

The only thing that was loose was the cable powering the Albright relay (for powering the NATO plug):
View attachment 7829227
You can notice the loose clip. there is hole where you can plug it in (not visible, I did it by feeling)

But this wasn't the cause of the rattling.
I think it is the other (left) side panel, where I broke two clips some months ago while dismounting, but not sure yet.
Click to expand...

You'd better bought the Grenadier as a CKD-Kit.... :LOL:

AWo
 
AWo

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Jean Mercier said:
Euh, I don't understand your question :unsure:


You should know I hate abbreviations :mad:;)
Click to expand...
CKD = Completely knocked down - These are car kits send from the manufacturer to companies who put all together and sell it. Land Rover used to send CKDs to Turkey to get them build together and sold there.

I.t.o.k.f.y.?

AWo
 
Jean Mercier

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And for the interest of this forum, I could make a picture of the label of the module behind the trim of the rear seat belt right side:
20231009_172927 Helbako Fuel Control Unit.jpg

According to internet:

2019-2021 BMW G07 X7 Fuel Control Unit Helbako FPC High​

 
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nzmark said:
Sounds more like "floating voltage" being induced in the cable, rather than a purposeful "here is a 2V supply". It's such a strange value ...
Click to expand...
Is it a pull up or pull down voltage due to that cable being connected to a module or ECU at the other end?
 
Eric

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Jean Mercier said:
Euh, I don't understand your question :unsure:
Click to expand...
Since you have a petrol version I was wondering if it was the controller for the Adblue system and the on screen monitoring of the Adblue warning level.
 
Jean Mercier

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Eric said:
Since you have a petrol version I was wondering if it was the controller for the Adblue system and the on screen monitoring of the Adblue warning level.
Click to expand...
Ah, I see, this could indeed have been an explanation. But according to the other answers it is related to towing :)
 
Mr. Largo WINCH

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Bonjour à tous
Moteur éteint, j'ai mesuré la tension sur l'arrivée identifiée 12V sur la photo de l'installation sous le cache Arrière droit dans le coffre.
12,57 Volts - Moteur coupé
14,16 Volts - Moteur en fonctionnement.

En revanche, je n'ai pas de tension sur la prise OTAN (capuchon vert à l'arrière).

1697007872809.png


J'ai essayé avec PWR sur On et EXT4 sur On.
Toujours pas de tension sur la prise OTAN à l'arrière.

Est-ce quelequ'un sait ce qu'il faut faire pour que la prise OTAN soit alimentée ?
Merci de vos retours.

1697008221618.png

1697008372919.png
 
Jean Mercier

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LARGO WINCH said:
Bonjour à tous
Moteur éteint, j'ai mesuré la tension sur l'arrivée identifiée 12V sur la photo de l'installation sous le cache Arrière droit dans le coffre.
12,57 Volts - Moteur coupé
14,16 Volts - Moteur en fonctionnement.

En
View attachment 7829355
Click to expand...
To be honest, I didn’t check if there was tension on the NATO plug.
 
Clark Kent

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Hi. Sorry, I can only respond in English 🙏.

No power at the NATO socket is a known fault if you do not have the front winch option on your vehicle. This may be fixed in the current software update to version 1946. I'm not sure about that though.
While you're waiting for a fix from Ineos you have two choices to get power to the NATO Socket:

1. Move the large red cable from the right terminal of the relay (called an Albright solenoid) to the left terminal so both red cables are stacked onto the left terminal. This will bypass the Albright solenoid so the NATO socket is live all the time. There is no risk of draining your battery unless you leave a load plugged in for a long time and the engine is not running. Disconnect your battery or batteries before doing this because the left solenoid terminal is live as you have measured.

2. Follow these instructions to connect an ignition switched 12v signal to the Albright solenoid so it closes whenever the ignition is ON. This method uses the spare 'compressor' wires under the back seat to activate the solenoid by putting 12v onto the spade terminal to close the solenoid. This is the method I have used temporarily. Extend the yellow ignition switched wire and connect it to the spade terminal in place of the green wire. Leave the green wire unplugged.
 
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