Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS)

So the Grenadier is fitted with one of these located on the earth terminal of the starter battery:

A cursory Google of the details on the underside of the unit suggest:

"The IBS is a mechatronic component for monitoring the battery condition. The IBS is secured and connected to the negative terminal of the battery. The power supply for the IBS is fed across a separate cable. For data transmission, the IBS is connected to the DME (Digital Engine Electronics) or DDE (Digital Diesel Electronics) via the BSD (bit-serial data interface).

The software in the PC-board of the IBS calculates “State of Charge” and “State of Health” of the battery and sends the information to the DME via the Bit Serial Data link. Off-load current measurement: When the vehicle is not in use, the IBS continuously monitors the data relevant to the battery indicators. The IBS is programmed to “wake up” every 14 seconds so that it can update the measured values with new measurements. The measuring time is approx. 50 milliseconds (ms). The measured data are entered in the IBS memory for monitoring the offload current. When the engine is restarted, the DME / DDE reads off the off-load current curve. In the event of a deviation from the definedoff-load current curve, an entry will be made in the DME / DDE fault memory.

The sensor is very easily damaged by improper or rough handling during battery service."

From Hella:

So the interesting thing is that there is a 2nd version of the sensor, "used to monitor a second battery in the same communication network" ~ I wonder what it would take to get this to work in the Grenadier with the auxiliary battery?

DCPU said:

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So the interesting thing is that there is a 2nd version of the sensor, "used to monitor a second battery in the same communication network" ~ I wonder what it would take to get this to work in the Grenadier with the auxiliary battery?

Click to expand...

Seems like a very clever piece of kit. So does this in anyway change the thinking of people who are going to fit a Ctek D250se as this hella piece of kit seems to control alternator output according to battery state of charge. Is there any advantage other than of going to fix solar panels without an inbuilt mppt controller bearing in mind we already have the smartpass for the dual battery?
edit. - could this piece of kit be working against the Ctek D250SE if you connect the smart alternator cable ?

Logsplitter said:

Seems like a very clever piece of kit. So does this in anyway change the thinking of people who are going to fit a Ctek D250se as this hella piece of kit seems to control alternator output according to battery state of charge. Is there any advantage other than of going to fix solar panels without an inbuilt mppt controller bearing in mind we already have the smartpass for the dual battery?
edit. - could this piece of kit be working against the Ctek D250SE if you connect the smart alternator cable ?

Click to expand...

Perhaps this device is why Ineos does not connect and recommends against connecting the red wire on the Smart Pass 120? DaBull

Maybe, but I can't figure out how it would do it.

The CTEK sets itself according to whether there's a Smart alternator fitted or not ~ there's no other input signal other than the CTEK cable to make this switch.

I am thinking that Ineos is relying on the state of charge of the starter and aux battery to eventually equalize to the same level. By taking all the electric load from the starter battery, the starter battery should be equal to or at a lower voltage than the aux battery but never more. If the starter battery is lower and the ignition is off, the 120 will charge the starter from the aux battery, until both batteries equalize or a low voltage cut off is triggered. Thus if the aux battery needs charging then so does the starter. A low state of charge on the starter battery will trigger the IBS to signal the smart alternator to turn on, this will in turn raise the voltage (ie 14.2v) the 120 will sense the voltage increase and will connect the two batteries so now the aux will charge to the same voltage as the starter. No need for the 12v trigger to be connected to the 120 as the voltage increase is the default behaviour of the 120 to know when the engine is running and when to connect the two batteries together for charging. If however you start connecting electrical load from the aux battery directly or from the consumers output of the 120 then the aux battery can be lower than starter and the 12v trigger on the smart pass 120 should be connected to allow the aux to charge when the starter battery is fully charged and the smart alternator is off.

Xrford said:

If however you start connecting electrical load from the aux battery directly or from the consumers output of the 120 then the aux battery can be lower than starter and the 12v trigger on the smart pass 120 should be connected to allow the aux to charge when the starter battery is fully charged and the smart alternator is off.

Click to expand...

Wouldn't you think Ineos has to assume that people specifying the auxiliary battery would be using it in exactly this manner?

DCPU said:

Wouldn't you think Ineos has to assume that people specifying the auxiliary battery would be using it in exactly this manner?

Click to expand...

I think there are many constraints {cost, ease of assembly, aux battery not standard fitment on all models) that prevented them from setting up the aux battery to be used, out of the box, in this manner. I think the way they set it up was for the aux to be a backup to the starter not as an auxiliary battery in the traditional sense, that we have been a custom to in the adventure touring market. I think however a few simple modifications would allow it be used in this manner. Relocate the smart pass 120 temp sensor to near + on the battery, and connect the 12v ignition wire and you should be good to go. With your new Victron shunt I am sure you will be able put some analytics behind what is really going on with the aux setup.