Americas Wolfbox is installed and it is very cool

[MileHigh]

I’ve asked about it before, maybe in a different thread, but I know it’s kind of geeky, but I’d like to have at least one camera under the body to help with offloading. More rocky than muddy out here in Colorado, and I’ll probably be doing some solo offloading, so that would help if I don’t have a spotter.


maybe a simple as some kind of rotary switch to slack the camera? I really don’t care about the forward facing camera.

 

[RayMe]

Yes, I still have it.

I never tried it, still in box.

I went with the wolfbox mount and the Amazon replacement ball adapter from the start and saw no reason to try the 67 mount.

Another question; does it appear that the 67 Designs mount offsets the mirror slightly to the left (…more than the Wolfbox mount) to get a little more clearance from the ADAS box? PM me with your details on buying your 67 Designs from you.

 

[ShootingCar]

Okay so what’s the final recommendation for the Wolfbox Model and size?

I see them from $150 to $250.

Some are 900, 930 or 840.

Do we need the 35’ extension cable?

What is the preferred mounting to the mirror or replace it with the Amazon ball mount or 67 designs?

Thanks
Jeff

 

[Tom109]

Another question; does it appear that the 67 Designs mount offsets the mirror slightly to the left (…more than the Wolfbox mount) to get a little more clearance from the ADAS box? PM me with your details on buying your 67 Designs from you.

I started with the 67d mount (I also have the Amazon parts but liked the idea of the slight offset and potentially better forward camera view). In your hand the mount appears very light duty but installed it is solid with no vibrations. Mirror position is also good and easily clears the sun visors.

@ShootingCar - I used the longer rear camera cable. When I was ready to install, I held the standard cable against my intended routing and felt is was too close for comfort (may have worked, or maybe not). The extra cable from the long one is looped and zip-tied above the headliner over the cargo area.

I bought my G900 six months ago when they offered a steep discount. I really like it and may buy the same model for my son’s car.

 

[ShootingCar]

Thanks Tom,
I have the 900 in my cart at $249 less 5% on Amazon. I will add the 35’ cable extension.

So the 67 design is the way to go?

Thanks again,
Jeff

 

[Tom109]

So the 67 design is the way to go?

I think so. For me, the big thing is ability to tighten the ball/clamps and avoid movement/bounce. 67d does this well.

 

[ShootingCar]

Is there a discount code for the 67 Designs Mount.

 

[ZemTyrion]

How did you route the other wires? Try to figure out the best option before i do it.

Oh boy. It's an adventure.

In the back, we pulled off the floor, the right side wheel well cover, and then the panels in the corner going up the side. The wheel well cover is a pain because of the seats. It takes a lot of pulling and jiggling. On the rear door, we removed the bottom panel behind the tray, and then the bottom half of the trim around the window.

Then we pulled out the grommets from both sides of the door. There is a lot of excess rubber in there, and we cut that away while maintaining a seal to the environment. Starting from the inside corner of the car, we used a wire coat hanger to fish the wire through that rubber conduit. Then we followed the existing wire inside the door. I pulled the grommet just below the wiper motor, made it a wee bit bigger, and shoved the plug through. From the camera, I just used the existing hole at the top for the door latch, used the coat hanger to get it down to the wiper motor, and joined the wires there.

Back to the car interior, we ran the wires up the very back inside corner with the trim removed. Then we shoved it between the head liner and the upper trim all the way around to the front. At the A pillar, we unscrewed the three bolts holding that plastic trim to make a little space, and then just shoved the wire between the head liner and the glass to the center of the windshield. We had maybe a 1-2 feet extra we shoved somewhere along the way.

That was the signal from the camera. For power, we went from the fuse box under the ignition on the driver's side. That's not too bad, and I used the supplied kit to cut into a cigarette lighter fuse. The power then went under the dash and up the driver side. That is easy except it's best to remove the panel that has the hood latch. To remove that panel, you need to take the door sill out. I also took out the hard black wire cover under that door sill, and that means at least shoving aside some of the floor mat/liner.

GPS: I don't know what this would be for, so I didn't put it anywhere.

This is for LHD. I expect power and signal would come in the same side for RHD.

 

[Tom109]

You shouldn’t have to cut anything, just disassemble/reassemble. I ran the camera cable:
- behind the rear door trim
- through the rubber accordion tube to the interior
- up the D-pillar to the headliner
- center of headliner to the overhead switch panel

For great power and GPS cable routing go to post #257 on page 13, by @AndyT

The GPS puck and cable are used for photo location metadata, and speed & direction display in the mirror. Both really nice features!

 

[Bluesurf]

I bought mine a 900 on eBay in an unopened box brand new for $165.00.

 

[AngusMacG]

You shouldn’t have to cut anything, just disassemble/reassemble. I ran the camera cable:
- behind the rear door trim
- through the rubber accordion tube to the interior
- up the D-pillar to the headliner
- center of headliner to the overhead switch panel

For great power and GPS cable routing go to post #257 on page 13, by @AndyT

The GPS puck and cable are used for photo location metadata, and speed & direction display in the mirror. Both really nice features!

So when I am in NJ on Oct 1st/2nd I can swing by and you can help me install mine?