Which M/T tyre for the Grenadier? 285/70/17

[Matt P]

Hi All,

I'm looking for a little advice if you'd be so kind. I've narrowed down the choice to the following (see below) but I'd love to hear your thoughts, especially if you've got a lot of experience with the tyres below. Honest pros and cons.

We're looking for:

• A good all-rounder
• All seasons ideally
• One that is particularly focussed on off-road capabilities in a variety of terrains (Around 75% of overall use will be off-road)
• Strong side walls (Min 3 ply)
• Good longevity

I'm aware there's various A/T tyres out there but we feel we need something a little more aggressive for what we generally do. So a M/T tyre is what’s been decided.

With all that in mind, please feel free to add your thoughts on which one is the best and why. If I've missed one you strongly recommend, I'm keen to hear what and why. Thanks so much in advance!

Here's the options we're looking at:

• General Grabber X3
• Falken Wildpeak M/T
• BF Goodrich KM3
• Toyo Open Country M/T
• Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ P3

I look forward to seeing what people think!

Matt

 

[Zimm]

I actually don’t know much about vehicle ‘level’ and why it isn’t level or what is the benefit of ‘leveling a vehicle’
If anyone can educate me. That would be very helpful. Thanks in advance.

The rear is higher stock so it sits level while towing a load. It's not a necessary feature, as it's not truly shifting load to the front tires if its designed that way, and with the 5 link I doubt the caster changes and creates the floaty steering sensation, but it is more comfortable to drive not looking up. Leveling it makes it more aesthetically pleasing to some, but I wonder with a heavy load if the headlights will move beyond direction adjustment and glare at oncoming traffic.

 

[Grenadiertrialgirl]

I am doing the Eibach lift w/ CV joint replacement to prevent issue and then getting larger tires. My Grenadier is also my daily, but we offroad when we can. I'm also taking it to Telluride and Moab in '26 so I want a good set of tires for off roading out there. Anybody have good suggestions for all weather, beefier look, with strong sidewall that I can also use off roading and on the cross country ride? Lots to ask for in a variety setting! Thanks so much

 

[Zimm]

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/types/category.jsp?category=ON_OFF_ROAD

Pick one with a 3 peak snowflake on it, and don't drive around on them for 10000 miles before you do your trip. Good winter traction on an AT is good for about one season.

 

[Sal]

The rear is higher stock so it sits level while towing a load. It's not a necessary feature, as it's not truly shifting load to the front tires if its designed that way, and with the 5 link I doubt the caster changes and creates the floaty steering sensation, but it is more comfortable to drive not looking up. Leveling it makes it more aesthetically pleasing to some, but I wonder with a heavy load if the headlights will move beyond direction adjustment and glare at oncoming traffic.

Got it. Thanks.

 

[Matt P]

Thank you for putting out great content. It is very enjoyable to watch and follow along with your travels.

Cheers Terdrocket! Glad you're enjoying following our little journey around the world!

 

[Matt P]

After plowing thru a bazillion tires, I’m more about rotating out tires at 60% tread than which tire tread is best. A new bfg will crush a 70% falken and visa versa. I doubt I’ll ever really be in developing remote world again, but if I was to feel spunky again when I retire, first and foremost for me is puncture resistance. Then keeping the treads fresh. It’s not that big of a money hit in the broad view, but you can also get a few bucks on Craigslist for 1/2 worn shoes.

Just a different perspective.

Appreciate this Zimm! "First and foremost for me is puncture resistance" this is a big one for us. We've just had few in close succession and so it's made me think a little more about this. Especially in sharp rocks. Which certain countries are full off, there's no escaping them, unless of course you drive on the road and we don't want to do that..

 

[Asnes]

I actually don’t know much about vehicle ‘level’ and why it isn’t level or what is the benefit of ‘leveling a vehicle’
If anyone can educate me. That would be very helpful. Thanks in advance.

It doesn’t sit level because of higher spring rate on rear suspension to accommodate more load on the rear axle.

For a given tire size that fits stock ride height, there is no benefit to leveling the vehicle (fitting spacers up front, or higher spring rate springs) - it’s only for looks.

For larger tires you need to raise the front end to fit them.

On a “level” truck the rear will sag when loaded, unless you fit airbags.

All fun and games.

 

[Zimm]

Appreciate this Zimm! "First and foremost for me is puncture resistance" this is a big one for us. We've just had few in close succession and so it's made me think a little more about this. Especially in sharp rocks. Which certain countries are full off, there's no escaping them, unless of course you drive on the road and we don't want to do that..

The difficult part about tire performance, is how anecdotal it is. I cut 3 brand new duratracks in 2 days in New England… was it the tires? Was it the sharp rocks? Was I having a spat of stupid? Who knows.

 

[Sal]

It doesn’t sit level because of higher spring rate on rear suspension to accommodate more load on the rear axle.

For a given tire size that fits stock ride height, there is no benefit to leveling the vehicle (fitting spacers up front, or higher spring rate springs) - it’s only for looks.

For larger tires you need to raise the front end to fit them.

On a “level” truck the rear will sag when loaded, unless you fit airbags.

All fun and games.

That makes sense. Thanks for the explanation. I’m new to this stuff and I appreciate all the help and guidance. This (forum ) is a great resource to have. Thank you!

 

[Commodore]

It doesn’t sit level because of higher spring rate on rear suspension to accommodate more load on the rear axle.

For a given tire size that fits stock ride height, there is no benefit to leveling the vehicle (fitting spacers up front, or higher spring rate springs) - it’s only for looks.

For larger tires you need to raise the front end to fit them.

On a “level” truck the rear will sag when loaded, unless you fit airbags.

All fun and games.

You don’t need to lift the front to fit bigger tires. You can get a 35” tire on stock wheels and stock suspension.

 

[Commodore]

I am doing the Eibach lift w/ CV joint replacement to prevent issue and then getting larger tires. My Grenadier is also my daily, but we offroad when we can. I'm also taking it to Telluride and Moab in '26 so I want a good set of tires for off roading out there. Anybody have good suggestions for all weather, beefier look, with strong sidewall that I can also use off roading and on the cross country ride? Lots to ask for in a variety setting! Thanks so much

What are you replacing the CV’s with?

 

[Max]

The difficult part about tire performance, is how anecdotal it is. I cut 3 brand new duratracks in 2 days in New England… was it the tires? Was it the sharp rocks? Was I having a spat of stupid? Who knows.

Interested Bystander: was it sidewalls and any idea of tyre pressures?...I have seen it happen in hot areas of Western Australia where your tyres are running hot and high pressure on the black stuff then you hit the dirt...whoops

 

[Zimm]

Interested Bystander: was it sidewalls and any idea of tyre pressures?...I have seen it happen in hot areas of Western Australia where your tyres are running hot and high pressure on the black stuff then you hit the dirt...whoops

Sidewalls, 33” duratrack, E rated, 18-20 psi, Appalachian mountain terrain, and 100 series LC.

Interestingly, same routes, 15-18 psi on 35” bfg mt’s, E rated, same rig, never an issue.

Temp isn’t an issue in this climate.

As I recall, Peischmann over at 4x4abc made a similar comment on a Gwagon site about 35’s.

Ultimately my philosophy on tires is really quite rudimentary….. load E. 35”. And keep the tread fresh. It’s kinda like your shoes. Make sure they fit your feet for the job, and useful wear of the soles isn’t when there’s a hole exposing your foot, its at about 60% tread. I think people overuse a tire for the simple reason of not wanting to spend money on something that LOOKS GOOD. after all, at 60%, it’s still deeper than a new sedan tire, so it’s still useful, right? Wrong.

 

[Matt P]

The difficult part about tire performance, is how anecdotal it is. I cut 3 brand new duratracks in 2 days in New England… was it the tires? Was it the sharp rocks? Was I having a spat of stupid? Who knows.

This is a very good point. Saying that, someone that has used a certain tyre over many years, in many different environments will have valid input I’d like to think. Pros and cons to consider at the very least. More so if they’ve then done the same again in the same vehicle but using another tyre and are able to make a direct comparison. Still not perfect but useful to take note of, especially if others support what’s being said with their own experiences. Unless of course we suffer from groupthink but I’d like to think that won’t be the case here.

 

[Max]

Sidewalls, 33” duratrack, E rated, 18-20 psi, Appalachian mountain terrain, and 100 series LC.

Interestingly, same routes, 15-18 psi on 35” bfg mt’s, E rated, same rig, never an issue.

Temp isn’t an issue in this climate.

As I recall, Peischmann over at 4x4abc made a similar comment on a Gwagon site about 35’s.

Ultimately my philosophy on tires is really quite rudimentary….. load E. 35”. And keep the tread fresh. It’s kinda like your shoes. Make sure they fit your feet for the job, and useful wear of the soles isn’t when there’s a hole exposing your foot, its at about 60% tread. I think people overuse a tire for the simple reason of not wanting to spend money on something that LOOKS GOOD. after all, at 60%, it’s still deeper than a new sedan tire, so it’s still useful, right? Wrong.

I was discussing with my BFG KO2 guy last week about my next set of tyres and he claims that my set on the vehicle now are made in the USA for Europe and your usage and they will wear not quite as well as the BFG KO2 that is made for our climate...I think they are great being a little softer never hurts when being a boy racer on the black stuff

 

[bigleonski]

I was discussing with my BFG KO2 guy last week about my next set of tyres and he claims that my set on the vehicle now are made in the USA for Europe and your usage and they will wear not quite as well as the BFG KO2 that is made for our climate...I think they are great being a little softer never hurts when being a boy racer on the black stuff

It’s interesting with the KO2’s.
I actually don’t feel overly confident in the wet on them to be honest - always feels like they are about to let go on turns.
My last 2 sets were Nitto ridge grapplers and Toyo OC’s, both more agressive, and both felt much more stable in the wet.

Matt, perhaps consider the Maxxis Razr MT’s. A friend who does lots of outback touring (and tows a camper trailer similar in size to yours) is now on his second set and rates them highly.
I am considering the Razr AT to replace the BFG’s when they are shot. And if they are any good would trade up to the MT’s when I’m ready to do more consistent remote touring again myself in a couple of years.

 

[Mike Morrison]

Also have a look at the Yokohama Geolander MT g003 - very similar to the
Toyo but a bit lighter.