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What did you do with your Grenadier today?

PNW_IG

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Went back to Owl in Portland for LP4s in the grill and Kings all around. Driveshaft boots at full droop looked very similar to stock shocks even though Kings are 1" longer. TeraFlex 1745000 CVs will be here tomorrow. I will check boots often and replace if needed. Looking forward to hearing more about double double cardan options.

Cheers.

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ECrider

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Went back to Owl in Portland for LP4s in the grill and Kings all around. Driveshaft boots at full droop looked very similar to stock shocks even though Kings are 1" longer. TeraFlex 1745000 CVs will be here tomorrow. I will check boots often and replace if needed. Looking forward to hearing more about double double cardan options.

Cheers.

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How does it drive with the Kings?
 

PNW_IG

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How does it drive with the Kings?
Long day yesterday, only drove on the freeway so difficult to quantify. I also had the alignment done so handling improvements could be attributed to either. I expect them to excel on long runs on corrugated fire roads because of the remote revivors. I will hit a trail this weekend and report back.

I just crawled under it and the driveshaft boots look perfect after 150 miles at 70+ mph. 🤞

Cheers.
 

rovie

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Today I drove to a Rockinger dealer and wanted to buy a jaw coupling for my quick-release trailer coupling. Unfortunately, it was too small for my agricultural tank trailer.
In the car park, a Toyota RAV driver asked me if I would sell the Grenadier. He was interested. I turned him down. I'm not selling it at the moment. It hasn't let me down yet and I basically like it. Even if there are things that bother me. But I can live with that.
 

holdmybeer

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I yanked all the chrome strips out of the grille. Very easy to remove if you don’t plan on putting them back.

Hey that's smart.

We agree chrome looks out of place on the Grenadier. I spent a few bucks and flat blacked out the chrome strips with vinyl.
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gulfcoastgrenadier

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Also put on my tire cover by Tougher with the zips for the spare wheel storage, but instead I have a GP rotopax mount underneath.
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parb

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Getting ready for Moab. Put on the steelies and the ko2. These bad boys are heavy!

Also found out that my low profile race Jack can't lift it high enough. I have an electro hydraulic jack that worked out but dang, I was worried for a minute.

A bit of mud was left on by the cap on the axle from a river crossing. hard to clean behind my other rims that covers the axles.
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Loc Nar

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So I completed a Maxtrax project today, and I'd like to thank @Zimm for guidance along the way. I have an Alu-Cab Gen 3R with a 200w Redarc solar panel mounted on my Grenadier and, of course, I was trying to figure out what to do with the remaining empty real estate on top of the tent and, naturally, started to look into Maxtrax mounts. I looked hard at GP-Factor's offering, pictured here (which also shows the solar mounting bracket I used), but decided that would not work well, because you would have to reach to the middle of the boards to lift them up, and I knew that would be a difficult reach on top of the tent from the sides. I wanted a solution that would have the pins positioned near the edge of the tent so I could access them easier with my RTT ladder. So, I looked into mounts, but so many of them wanted to mount things to the top of load bars. I wanted a flush mount approach like GP-Factor provided with the solar mounting bracket. I then did a lot of research and figured out I could cobble together some pieces and parts that should work.

I found this Rago Fabrication Hi-Lift Maxtrax Mounting Kit and my eyes lit up when I saw the two plates that had the Maxtrax 10mm mounting holes perfectly positioned. I thought I should be able to combine those plates with a set of Alu-Cab low profile load bar feet and a set of Maxtrax pins and another Alu-Cab 1250mm load bar, and I'd be in business. Well, I was, but Jesus Jumpin' Catfish, the tolerances were tighter than two coats of paint! I had to judiciously use 3mm stainless steel spacers and some low profile 10mm nuts to make the whole shebang work with what I had, and then had to tighten everything down in a certain order, but at the end of the day - success! The first thing I had to do was drill out the 6mm holes at the end of the plates to 8mm. Then I went round and round to sort out the magic combination of nuts and spacers to make this work (if anyone wants to replicate this and needs more guidance than what the pics show, just let me know). Anyway, here are some pics to show the progress - and note to GP-Factor - improve upon my design and make it so the Maxtrax pins can fold down when not in use, like these Cobbers figured out at Pirate Camp Co. (feel free to send me a prototype for testing).

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So I completed a Maxtrax project today, and I'd like to thank @Zimm for guidance along the way. I have an Alu-Cab Gen 3R with a 200w Redarc solar panel mounted on my Grenadier and, of course, I was trying to figure out what to do with the remaining empty real estate on top of the tent and, naturally, started to look into Maxtrax mounts. I looked hard at GP-Factor's offering, pictured here (which also shows the solar mounting bracket I used), but decided that would not work well, because you would have to reach to the middle of the boards to lift them up, and I knew that would be a difficult reach on top of the tent from the sides. I wanted a solution that would have the pins positioned near the edge of the tent so I could access them easier with my RTT ladder. So, I looked into mounts, but so many of them wanted to mount things to the top of load bars. I wanted a flush mount approach like GP-Factor provided with the solar mounting bracket. I then did a lot of research and figured out I could cobble together some pieces and parts that should work.

I found this Rago Fabrication Hi-Lift Maxtrax Mounting Kit and my eyes lit up when I saw the two plates that had the Maxtrax 10mm mounting holes perfectly positioned. I though I should be able to combine those plates with a set of Alu-Cab low profile load bar feet and a set of Maxtrax pins and another Alu-Cab 1250mm load bar, and I'd be in business. Well, I was, but Jesus Jumpin' Catfish, the tolerances were tighter than two coats of paint! I had to judiciously use 3mm stainless steel spacers and some low profile 10mm nuts to make the whole shebang work with what I had, and then had to tighten everything down in a certain order, but at the end of the day - success! The first thing I had to do was drill out the 6mm holes at the end of the plates to 8mm. Then I went round and round to sort out the magic combination of nuts and spacers to make this work (if anyone wants to replicate this and needs more guidance than what the pics show, just let me know). Anyway, here are some pics to show the progress - and note to GP-Factor - improve upon my design and make it so the Maxtrax pins can fold down when not in use, like these Cobbers figured out at Pirate Camp Co. (feel free to send me a prototype for testing).

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That turned out awesome.
 

Walter

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I installed the KC HiLites FE4 Grill Light Kit from Shadowmarq Industries. The installation was easy with the help of YouTube instructions, but the wire connections have been a pain—I still haven’t figured them out.

The lights look much better than the factory ones, though!

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