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What did you do with your Grenadier today?

Jetjockey

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Checker Plates and Forum Badge installed.

The checker plates are DIY. As my dealer couldn't get the Ineos ones and I didn't like drilling into the wings anyway, I had some made at a local shop and powder coated. Colour and structure matching the side racks. I used a one component adhesive, that stays elastic. The only downside is, I told them, to make as many plates in sets of two as they can get out of the sheet so I won't leave them with too much scrap metal. In the end they got nine pieces out of it (should've been five lefts and four rights). After I had them coated and put them on the floor to check, I saw that I had seven lefts and only two rights... :ROFLMAO:

IMG20240426133435.jpg

IMG20240426153917.jpg


IMG20240426144808.jpg
 

Krabby

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Checker Plates and Forum Badge installed.

The checker plates are DIY. As my dealer couldn't get the Ineos ones and I didn't like drilling into the wings anyway, I had some made at a local shop and powder coated. Colour and structure matching the side racks. I used a one component adhesive, that stays elastic. The only downside is, I told them, to make as many plates in sets of two as they can get out of the sheet so I won't leave them with too much scrap metal. In the end they got nine pieces out of it (should've been five lefts and four rights). After I had them coated and put them on the floor to check, I saw that I had seven lefts and only two rights... :ROFLMAO:

View attachment 7854680
View attachment 7854682

View attachment 7854683
Are the plates symmetrical? I assumed (always dangerous) they were the same for both sides, just flipped over from one another.

Also - nice work with the medallion - perfect spot.
 

Krabby

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Checker Plates and Forum Badge installed.

The checker plates are DIY. As my dealer couldn't get the Ineos ones and I didn't like drilling into the wings anyway, I had some made at a local shop and powder coated. Colour and structure matching the side racks. I used a one component adhesive, that stays elastic. The only downside is, I told them, to make as many plates in sets of two as they can get out of the sheet so I won't leave them with too much scrap metal. In the end they got nine pieces out of it (should've been five lefts and four rights). After I had them coated and put them on the floor to check, I saw that I had seven lefts and only two rights... :ROFLMAO:

View attachment 7854680
View attachment 7854682

View attachment 7854683
Also - it's a day late and a dollar short, but the font IA used on the demo trucks for the Long-Lat coordinates can be downloaded from HERE! It's called Major SNAFU.
 

Jetjockey

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Also - it's a day late and a dollar short, but the font IA used on the demo trucks for the Long-Lat coordinates can be downloaded from HERE! It's called Major SNAFU.
Thank you anyway. All that stuff is made by a friend. I might just ask him to make another set of coordinates. :)
 

Jetjockey

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Are the plates symmetrical? I assumed (always dangerous) they were the same for both sides, just flipped over from one another.

Also - nice work with the medallion - perfect spot.
The spot looks even better, if you look from afar.
IMG20240426180533.jpg


Regarding the plates, I made a template from styrofoam (some old leftover wall insulation stuff). When I tried the template on the wings, I noticed, that the wings are pretty symmetrical, but the bonnet/hood isn't centered perfectly. That's why I made another template and decided to extend the plates in width to go under the hood.
I left a 5mm gap between the seal around the engine bay and the plates so that dirt doesn't get caught between the plate and (elastic) seal. And the most important part is, that any patchiness vanishes under the bonnet.
 

Shaky

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Those wing tops look great, probably like you I would be a bit nervous on drilling the wings due to stuff being under there. My luck to go to deep and mess something up !!

Will be interested how the adhesive holds up long term. I might have missed it, but I am assuming the plates are made of aluminium and then powder coated.
 

Jetjockey

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Those wing tops look great, probably like you I would be a bit nervous on drilling the wings due to stuff being under there. My luck to go to deep and mess something up !!

Will be interested how the adhesive holds up long term. I might have missed it, but I am assuming the plates are made of aluminium and then powder coated.
Right, Aluminum. I almost used stainless steel, but they were 7,5kg a piece...
 

TheDocAUS

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Very satisfying isn't it?
I've got more adapters than appliances it seems these days!
I saved around $300 making my own NATO to Anderson adapter.
The crocodile clips cut from the twin air compressor, will probably be mated with a 125 Amp Anderson plug and that can be plugged into my NATO to 125 amp Anderson cable.

It is very satisfying.
 

AngusMacG

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Register the patent before IA pinches your idea. ( and adds 200% on the construction costs aka IA marketing )
Ineos C=couldn’t get a patent in the US as there is prior art since he published the photo but that’s to say they wouldn’t copy it and still mark it up 200%
 

Jack123

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Urban “Black Shadow” single tube side steps arrived today… so yea I put them on straight away 😎.
Made a jig from scrap lumber to more easily position them, but in hindsight could probably have done it without the jig 🤔
Big improvement for ingress and egress so worth the investment👍

Beautiful KB! Thanks for sharing! Mine will arrive next week and I shall install right away! :)
 

MrMike

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TRAVEL BUDDY OVEN
Tasks today:
1. Wired the 50-amp Anderson plug to the Travel Buddy Oven. Fitted the KAON insulated door to the oven.
2. Fitted the KAON Travel Buddy mounting brackets to the rear roof shelf. The backing plates had been wrapped in black fabric tape to stop any rattles and let the backing plates blend into the shelf.
3. Fitted the Travel Buddy oven to the KAON brackets.
4. Plugged in and tested the oven - all working! The oven can be plugged into the rear power outlet shown below.
5. Placed spit tubing over the power cable to protect it, then tidied up the run of the power cable to the power outlet. When not in use, the Anderson plug is velcroed to the roof shelf.
6. After fitting the Travel Buddy, the driver loses some rear vision, but it is limited to part of the small rear door on the passenger’s side (RHD).

View attachment 7854354
The side on shot looks very similar to this image from the KAON website.
KC010_Website_Blog%20Content_Travel%20Ovens5.jpg


POWER TO THE CAR TRACKER
7. Used my rear power outlet to recharge the car tracker battery, which normally lasts around 6 months. Worked out how to lay permanent power to the tracker, if needed.
View attachment 7854355

REAR JACK
8. Removed the jack and stowed it in my drawer. The jack keeps working loose.

9. Off to the pool for a swim, then working on the Bushman fridge.

The build is coming together nicely now.

TRAVEL BUDDY NOT PART OF THE ORIGINAL BUILD
The Travel Buddy was never part of the build, until I fitted the rear roof shelf and thought of this upgrade. It offers some great options when driving around for better meals. When driving long stints I tend to eat take away, now I can cook my own food. It helped that I had power outlets already fitted to the rear.

Now I am not limited to a small butane stove when remote. Mounting the oven this was has used otherwise unused space. Win, win.

TO DO
Building the fridge slide is the next to do. After that a visit to Expedition HQ for the final work and then off the remote Channel Country in South West Queensland and the dinosaurs in June.

MAYBES
Rocks sliders/steps and maybe a small front LED lightbar on the Roo bar. Still thinking about a Redarc EGT and Boost gauge as well.
Travel buddys are dangerous, all you can smell is cooking whatever you have in it and makes one insanely hungry while driving, especially if it's slow cooked ribs in there :cool:
 

Eric

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95 miles on narrow undulating (on road high range only) roads in the Scottish Borders - 29.3 mpg.
With 3000 miles on the odometer the engine appears to be " loosening up "
 
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