(UPDATE: 3D Printed sunglasses holder for overhead). NOW WITH STL FILES TO PRINT.

[MileHigh]

 

[landmannnn]

Out of interest, what 3d printer did you buy?

 

[Shaky]

Looks good, what is it ??

 

[MileHigh]

So i designed and 3D printed a sun glasses holder with a three button garage door opener that fits into the area of the overheaed with out any switches.

PRinted in PETG-carbon fiber. The logo is from here,someone posted a STL or similar file of the LOGO. THat part of the door is printed on teh print bed so that it is flat. Came out pretty nice I think.

THe panel on teh overhead is really held on with clips you can't see. The panel is actually three panels all togtether. SO the 'panel' under my holder, and the two in front of it are all one piece that you can remove when yout take out the screws. You could cut the panel to gain some more room, but I didn't want to do that right now.

THe screws are a really coarse 4mm with hex head, that is different than the self-tapping screws that I was able to find. You need longer screws to attach the holder. 20mm from McMaster-Carr is what I used. I'd like to find the real screws in 20mm length.

The door is held by two 45 degree surfaces with magnets in tehm to help give it some 'stick'. The door slides back and then falls down. I need to add something to make it easier to grab.

The front kind of obscures the text for the buttons in front (lockers). I could make it shorter and eliminate the opener, or maybe move it so that the opener is in the middle.

I need some flocking or print some TPU/E on the glasses holder- that CF in the PETG is HARSH.

What do you guys think?

 

[MileHigh]

Printed on a PRUSA XL 5 head. You need a 'bigger' than standard model to print it. Main body is 258mm wide.

THe multihead let me print the different material.

The XL is a BEAST. Prints with very few problems so far. Waited a LONG time for the XL, it was a race of the snails as to what I'd get first- the IG or the XL... Happy with both so far.

 

[ADVAW8S]

Printed on a PRUSA XL 5 head. You need a 'bigger' than standard model to print it. Main body is 258mm wide.

THe multihead let me print the different material.

The XL is a BEAST. Prints with very few problems so far. Waited a LONG time for the XL, it was a race of the snails as to what I'd get first- the IG or the XL... Happy with both so far.

That is pretty sweet

 

[Grenji]

Great idea and execution. Knowing zero about 3D printing you appear to be performing witchcraft

 

[MileHigh]

Great idea and execution. Knowing zero about 3D printing you appear to be performing witchcraft

Thanks, I appreciate it. I’ve been doing 3D printing for over 10 years now. I approach it like eating an elephant- a bite at a time. People will recognize that I use TinkerCAD, which is what they let 1st graders use. I just can’t get past it, and it ‘works’ for me. On printers I started out on wooden Printrbots and just keep building the pyramid- though the printers are getting better and better, especially at removing some of the ‘little things’ that drive you crazy. Strongly recommend PRUSA printers. I have MINI, MK3, MK4 and the XL. So from $350 to $3500, they all work.

I finally can make stuff that I could never make with out a 3D printer.

I have more IG stuff in the pipeline!

 

[G. Zod]

Prusa makes great printers, I have a mk4 and a mk3 upgraded to mk4. Currently eyeing the XL, glad to hear you like it...!

 

[Grenji]

That excellent. I’m in Aurora and would love to connect on what you have cooking!

 

[Shopkeep]

Thanks, I appreciate it. I’ve been doing 3D printing for over 10 years now. I approach it like eating an elephant- a bite at a time. People will recognize that I use TinkerCAD, which is what they let 1st graders use. I just can’t get past it, and it ‘works’ for me. On printers I started out on wooden Printrbots and just keep building the pyramid- though the printers are getting better and better, especially at removing some of the ‘little things’ that drive you crazy. Strongly recommend PRUSA printers. I have MINI, MK3, MK4 and the XL. So from $350 to $3500, they all work.

I finally can make stuff that I could never make with out a 3D printer.

I have more IG stuff in the pipeline!

I am a big fan of Tinkercad as well but I suggest you give Onshape a try, like all CAD programs it takes a bit to initially get your head around but worth the effort. The ability to go back to any step, easily make a change and have that change flow through all stages is priceless.

 

[Survivor]

Looks really great. Is it possible to get the STL file? I’m really looking for something like that. Great work

 

[BenTN]

@MileHigh this is really cool!

You can post the stl for others to download if you want. I've posted a few things there.

Go here:

3D printed parts, upgrades and modifications

www.theineosforum.com

and click 'Add resource' button in upper right.

 

[MileHigh]

I’m going to try to post this a some other stuff this weekend. The model pictured was too ‘tall’ at the front- it masked some of the buttons from the drivers position- and I didn’t have a way to open it. I have a new version that I’ll try out. I’ll also put up a version that is ‘whole’ so that people can use it as a base for other mods.

 

[FlyersFan76]

I’m going to try to post this a some other stuff this weekend. The model pictured was too ‘tall’ at the front- it masked some of the buttons from the drivers position- and I didn’t have a way to open it. I have a new version that I’ll try out. I’ll also put up a version that is ‘whole’ so that people can use it as a base for other mods.

Which filament did you use or recommend? On some of my smaller parts I have Meade they do not like the heat and bend. Granted mine were for small Molle parts being suspended upside down and the weight pulled them to the point of it not being useful.

 

[MileHigh]

Which filament did you use or recommend? On some of my smaller parts I have Meade they do not like the heat and bend. Granted mine were for small Molle parts being suspended upside down and the weight pulled them to the point of it not being useful.

Good question. Right now I’m printing these in Carbon Fiber filled PETG. That stuff is STIFF, but I haven’t tried it out at internal car temps, that might be an issue for PETG, even if it is fiber reinforced.

I have some Prusament PC and PA resins (CF filled). The PA(11?) is probably as good as I can get for thermal resistance.

I also have ASA. A bit from PRusament, a bunch from Inland (Microcenter) and a couple of rolls from 3DXTECH.

3DXTECH

3DXTECH

www.3dxtech.com

I highly suggest the ASA from 3DXTECH, over the Inland. They have glass fiber filled, so you can get better printing and final properties. Plus, their fiber doesn’t ‘snap’/break like the Inland stuff does. Feels like Inland skimps on additives like an AO.

 

[FlyersFan76]

Good question. Right now I’m printing these in Carbon Fiber filled PETG. That stuff is STIFF, but I haven’t tried it out at internal car temps, that might be an issue for PETG, even if it is fiber reinforced.

I have some Prusament PC and PA resins (CF filled). The PA(11?) is probably as good as I can get for thermal resistance.

I also have ASA. A bit from PRusament, a bunch from Inland (Microcenter) and a couple of rolls from 3DXTECH.

3DXTECH

3DXTECH

www.3dxtech.com

I highly suggest the ASA from 3DXTECH, over the Inland. They have glass fiber filled, so you can get better printing and final properties. Plus, their fiber doesn’t ‘snap’/break like the Inland stuff does. Feels like Inland skimps on additives like an AO.

Thank you.

Since I only bought my AnkerMaker one as a hobby and learn with and didn't want to spend too much money I'll have to check the compatibilities on that machine.

The newest console organizer is much better than my first try but I figured out the correct supports and print orientation since then.

 

[MileHigh]

Thank you.

Since I only bought my AnkerMaker one as a hobby and learn with and didn't want to spend too much money I'll have to check the compatibilities on that machine.

The newest console organizer is much better than my first try but I figured out the correct supports and print orientation since then.

Most machines can go to 300C or close enough for PETG. PA should work too, at least some grades. Getting adhesion to the bed is one issue,. The main on for this project is that it is bigger than most print beds, that is why I print it on the XL. It could proabably be printed in parts.

 

[Survivor]

@MileHigh: maybe you can make the holder a tiny bit smaller so the bambulab guys can print it. there is the max 256mm. Otherwise I have to print it on my cr-10 in less good quality.

 

[Lollo050968]

Next week arrive our CreateBot 600 Pro 2…. I will wait, it’s on the Limit with the Ultimaker S7 , and for higher temperature the CreateBot is better…..keep you informed