Transfer Case, Loss Hi Gear

[samnt650]

After a brief run in sand, my transfer case wont get out of of Low Gear.. Checked the top end (shifter) and appeared nothing broken (yes I have pull apart the top and side cover) I can see the locker cable move in/out.. having difficult finding where is the Hi/Li lever on the transfer case.. wondering anyone encounter this problem??

 

[Clark Kent]

After a brief run in sand, my transfer case wont get out of of Low Gear.. Checked the top end (shifter) and appeared nothing broken (yes I have pull apart the top and side cover) I can see the locker cable move in/out.. having difficult finding where is the Hi/Li lever on the transfer case.. wondering anyone encounter this problem??

I don't recall anyone reporting a loss of high range. It's possible that driveline wind up is stopping you from shifting out of low range. Drive in reverse while making some steering inputs for a short distance to unwind the driveline. Attempt to shift out of low range again.

The selectors are up high on the LHS of the transfer case. Follow the two cables in the area above the steel cooler pipes. I doubt you can get to them but might be able to look for movement when the shifter is operated.

 

[DustCloud]

I've had it jump out of gear moving from Low to High on a couple of occasions (always on the center-diff locked side), then moving from N to D. When this happens there's a sort of neutral on the transfer case between high and low which sounds horrible. I have the impression the actuator mechanism is poorly adjusted and the lever reaches some sort of stop before the lever which is reached before the transfer case is properly engaged in high range. On my list to mention to service agent...

 

[samnt650]

Actually found the problem The Hi-Low cable broke at the transfer case lever. It was absolutely PITA to push the lever back to Hi gear.

 

[Clark Kent]

Actually found the problem The Hi-Low cable broke at the transfer case lever. It was absolutely PITA to push the lever back to Hi gear.

Well that's not good. Other reports of broken cables here.
How did you move the selector lever at the transfer case. Any pro tips now that you have done it?

 

[samnt650]

Its a two person job. Truck needs to be on Neutral (engine running) and one person need to be under the truck (you arm is on the exhaust, trying to reach the top of the transfer case at the rear, not ideal) and do whatever you can push the lever toward front of truck, pop it back to Hi Gear. Best to be on incline, allow the truck to roll a bit. That helps pushing the lever in place.

 

[Clark Kent]

Its a two person job. Truck needs to be on Neutral (engine running) and one person need to be under the truck (you arm is on the exhaust, trying to reach the top of the transfer case at the rear, not ideal) and do whatever you can push the lever toward front of truck, pop it back to Hi Gear. Best to be on incline, allow the truck to roll a bit. That helps pushing the lever in place.

Its a two person job. Truck needs to be on Neutral (engine running) and one person need to be under the truck (you arm is on the exhaust, trying to reach the top of the transfer case at the rear, not ideal) and do whatever you can push the lever toward front of truck, pop it back to Hi Gear. Best to be on incline, allow the truck to roll a bit. That helps pushing the lever in place.

Thanks for the feedback. I'm tossing around some candidate scenarios for a write up of roadside recovery actions for a new section of @Rok_Dr's guide. The type of stuff that comes up in the SOS section so it's at hand if you have a copy of the guide. I want to say this one is too obscure and not worth prepping for but it's not the first cable to break so it might be worth a mention. Cheers.

 

[samnt650]

I'll try to get some pictures (when the truck is in the shop) for the repair instruction..

 

[samnt650]

@Clark Kent Let me know if you need the originals

 

[Clark Kent]

@Clark Kent Let me know if you need the originals

Thanks @samnt650.

My vehicle is currently at my agent for warranty replacement of the Steering Column Module (SCM) so I haven't had access to it to work on this.

The red callouts will disappear in a printed copy. If you wouldn't mind posting the originals then @Rok_Dr can add callouts using your markup as a guide.

Please confirm the direction of the range selector lever on the transfer case: Forward is High range and rear is Low range? That's consistent with your 19 Jan post.

 

[samnt650]

Posting the original here...
For the High Low gear lever >> move toward the front = High toward the rear = Low
For the Transfer Lock >> move toward the front = Unlock / open toward the rear = Lock
>> CORRECTION >> Lever toward front LOCK. Lever toward rear UNLOCK
For the transmission neutral lever >> move toward the ground, and find a way to hold it there = Neutral
For the Transfer case neutral >> Turn clockwise

 

[Rok_Dr]

Thanks @samnt650, @Clark Kent. I'll flag this post and in a week or so put some words together for a review

It won't make it into the next edition of the manual though and when/if it does it will be heavily qualified. Currently its a real edge case and I have safety concerns with people crawling under a running vehicle that is in neutral and having to reach around/over hot exhausts.

Cheers
Steve

 

[samnt650]

Steve.. This is real risk when trying to move the truck into neutral via the transfer case bolt or the transmission lever. You use either method as last resort when the truck has no power. As soon as you put the truck in neutral, it is going to roll unless the hand brake is pulled. Main reason why I would consider this to be two person job...

 

[Tazzieman]

As soon as you put the truck in neutral, it is going to roll unless the hand brake is pulled. Main reason why I would consider this to be two person job...

For 45 years I've habitually used the handbrake when stopped, incline or not. I've noted over the years that folk in NA tend to regard it as a emergency brake and rely on the Park function of the auto transmissions to prevent rolling.

 

[Clark Kent]

Steve.. This is real risk when trying to move the truck into neutral via the transfer case bolt or the transmission lever. You use either method as last resort when the truck has no power. As soon as you put the truck in neutral, it is going to roll unless the hand brake is pulled. Main reason why I would consider this to be two person job...

If this scenario was developed into a recovery procedure then I think it's self-evident that preliminary action must be taken by the driver to stop the vehicle from rolling when either the transfer case or transmission was placed into nuetral. The hand brake should always be applied by the driver before leaving the cabin but many instead rely on the parking pawl in an auto transmission. Different learning and practices in different markets. Calling the park brake/hand brake an e-brake doesn't help. It's a normal control not an emergency control but we could debate that forever.

If the engine can be started but the vehicle cannot be driven then car wash mode should be used so there is no need to get under the vehicle at all.

This needs to be a two-person task regardless. Someone needs to be in the seat to operate the brakes and steer if the vehicle is going to be moved.

Edit: @Tazzieman just posted on the same point.

 

[Rok_Dr]

Thanks @samnt650 , @Clark Kent and @Tazzieman I’m in total agreement.
Cheers
Steve

 

[samnt650]

Photo of the transfer case out of the truck. The transfer case is resting on the neutral bolt side.
Photo is oriented as top of photo point toward front of truck...

 

[Clark Kent]

Photo of the transfer case out of the truck. The transfer case is resting on the neutral bolt side.
Photo is oriented as top of photo point toward front of truck...

Good pics thanks @samnt650

Pic 1 (img 7543) shows the centre diff lock lever at the bottom near the forward driveshaft flange and the hi-lo range lever at the top. Is that correct?

I have sent a draft procedure for this recovery to @Rok_Dr. It's on his to-do list. I wrote it with the trans in park, engine off, park brake on, etc. for maximum safety. I just revisited your post above and you said to have the engine running and trans in neutral. Was that the only way you could achieve high range, or did you not attempt it with the engine off?
I can see how nuetral could be necessary so the transfer case gears can rotate freely with movement of the selector but maybe car wash mode is sufficient. Engine off, key on, trans in neutral.

I have no feel for how much force is required to move the lever (forward) into hi range. Do you think a long cord looped over the lever/pivot ball on the t-case might be enough if you laid with your head near the engine and feet towards the rear and pulled on the cord?

 

[samnt650]

Good pics thanks @samnt650

Pic 1 (img 7543) shows the centre diff lock lever at the bottom near the forward driveshaft flange and the hi-lo range lever at the top. Is that correct?

I have sent a draft procedure for this recovery to @Rok_Dr. It's on his to-do list. I wrote it with the trans in park, engine off, park brake on, etc. for maximum safety. I just revisited your post above and you said to have the engine running and trans in neutral. Was that the only way you could achieve high range, or did you not attempt it with the engine off?
I can see how nuetral could be necessary so the transfer case gears can rotate freely with movement of the selector but maybe car wash mode is sufficient. Engine off, key on, trans in neutral.

I have no feel for how much force is required to move the lever (forward) into hi range. Do you think a long cord looped over the lever/pivot ball on the t-case might be enough if you laid with your head near the engine and feet towards the rear and pulled on the cord?

Pic 1 / img 7543 - You are correct. Left of pic is front of the truck.
It is possible to shift Hi Lo, Lock Unlock with engine off (we can do that w/ the shifter) That was something I couldn't achieve while under the truck. The Hi Lo & Lock Unlock lever requires force to move.

I think pull cord is easier help move the Lock Unlock lever. With the Hi Lo, its going to a challenge moving it to the Hi position

 

[Clark Kent]

Pic 1 / img 7543 - You are correct. Left of pic is front of the truck.
It is possible to shift Hi Lo, Lock Unlock with engine off (we can do that w/ the shifter) That was something I couldn't achieve while under the truck. The Hi Lo & Lock Unlock lever requires force to move.

I think pull cord is easier help move the Lock Unlock lever. With the Hi Lo, its going to a challenge moving it to the Hi position

Thank you. More thought required

On a related note, I spotted in a recent LRTime YouTube from Christian and Vera that the LR Disco 4 has an emergency neutral lanyard under the centre console. That's clever.

Edit: attached a screenshot.