The under body protection thread.

[Tom109]

Big FF user.

 

[NoMoTaco]

Has anyone used this product from Blaster?

I’ve seen a fe different videos/reviews and it looks promising.

SURFACE SHIELD

I Have used this for the past two seasons on my daily driver (2007 4Runner) and also on my dedicated off roader (2011 Tacoma)
Prior to using Blaster Shield, I had been using Fluid Film on both vehicles seasonally/Regularly.

The Blaster Shield becomes waxy after a month or so of regular driving (took longer on my tacoma as it wasn't driven as regularly) however it still collects dirt and grime over the waxy protective layer, so it is not aesthetically pleasing (and bit dirty when wrenching underneath the vehicle) but when wiped away (which takes some vigor) it does protect well.

When I went to reapply this past fall, the waxy layer was still somewhat present on the 4Runner, and VERY present on the Tacoma (But the Tacoma was never driven in the winter conditions, and only had about 3,000 miles put on it over the year)

FWIW (sorry @Jean Mercier) I plan to use Blaster Shield on the Grenadier.

 

[Miki]

FWIW (sorry @Jean Mercier) I plan to use Blaster Shield on the Grenadier.

Yes it has Lanolin in it but the driers preclude it from being painted over (so I presume it never sets), it has a cedar perfume added, it's not bio-degradeable, it doesn't stop rust (you need a tannic acid for that) and it comes in a spray can.
It contains a petroleum distillate and compressed LPG which makes it highly flammable.
Around 10% is lanolin.

Great marketing though.

Surface Shield FAQs - B'laster Products

blasterproducts.com

https://blasterproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/SS-Surface-Shield-Aerosol-OSHA-GHS-SDS-2020-10-20.pdf

 

[Tazzieman]

Troops back armoured underwear dubbed 'combat codpiece'

The latest piece of soldiers' kit - protective body armour for the pelvic area, known as 'the combat codpiece' has been unveiled.

www.bbc.co.uk

 

[Tazzieman]

Sorry , wrong forum

 

[NoMoTaco]

Yes it has Lanolin in it but the driers preclude it from being painted over (so I presume it never sets), it has a cedar perfume added, it's not bio-degradeable, it doesn't stop rust (you need a tannic acid for that) and it comes in a spray can.
It contains a petroleum distillate and compressed LPG which makes it highly flammable.
Around 10% is lanolin.

Great marketing though.

Surface Shield FAQs - B'laster Products

blasterproducts.com

https://blasterproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/SS-Surface-Shield-Aerosol-OSHA-GHS-SDS-2020-10-20.pdf

It comes in both aerosolized cans as well as raw form in bulk buckets. I cannot speak to its exact formulation (or the aerosol cans), but I can tell you The raw form is not flammable (I use this in conjunction with an air compressor and sprayer gun). We had concerns about this so we put a glob of it on the garage floor and hit it with a propane torch and nothing happened.

Long term I would say I do not have enough seasons "Under the belt" to make a definitive conclusion regarding Blaster Shield. Fluid Film worked well and held up fairly well year over year, but was never as "Waxy". But whichever you choose, I personally would never paint over any of these product unless a great deal of surface prep was done to remove the product and contaminants.

 

[Miki]

It comes in both aerosolized cans as well as raw form in bulk buckets. I cannot speak to its exact formulation (or the aerosol cans), but I can tell you The raw form is not flammable (I use this in conjunction with an air compressor and sprayer gun). We had concerns about this so we put a glob of it on the garage floor and hit it with a propane torch and nothing happened.

According to the MSD, being a petroleum distillate it should catch fire (in its raw form/bulk bucket) @ its "Flash Point >320 °F"
Which is very low risk to be fair.

https://blasterproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/SS-Surface-Shield-Bulk-OSHA-GHS-SDS-2020-10-20.pdf

 

[Loc Nar]

I'm looking into undercoating options, and figured now - with a brand new vehicle and everything pretty pristine underneath - is the best time to get it done. One option I've seen that I see no discussion about in this thread is the Woolwax Hard-On product. Seriously, that's what it's called. Here's the company description:

Looking for a permanent 1-time hard shell coating for your truck frame or equipment? Hard-On by woolwax™ is what you need. Originally developed as a chip guard for trailer trucks this formula is perfect for any long term applications. Hard-On is water based , so it has almost no smell. Dries to the touch in about 1 hour, and after 72 hours it is fully cured.

Hard-On by woolwax™ was developed to be used on both ferrous (steel, stainless steel, cast iron, and wrought iron) and non-ferrous metals (aluminum, brass, copper, tin,). In addition, this formula will adhere to primers and oily steel. Hard-On can be recoated with most urethane, acrylic or resin formulated automotive topcoats.

Hard-On by Woolwax™ is an excellent solution for wheel wells which is always a high wash area.

Hard-On™ is a water based coating that can be used on any metal surface. No smell. Paint or spray on.

Woolwax Hard-On is a high performance, permanent 1-time hard shell coating. NOT rubber. For those people that want a "1 time" application, as opposed to an annual maintenance products, Hard-On is a great choice. If you decide to go with Hard-On permanent coating, you will also need a cavity wax for the enclosed protected areas. We highly recommend Creep N' Crawl Cavity wax. This can be found at the the link here: Creep N' Crawl Cavity Wax.

Here's a pic comparing it to the wetter Woolwax:

And here's a pic of a pre and post-underbody coating:

Any experience or thoughts on this product? Pros and cons? I'm thinking it might be good for protecting against water crossings, salt air and mist from beach driving, etc. The harder dry coating seems better suited to that sort of exposure than a wetter product. I can imagine how easily sand, dirt, dust, and mud will get glommed onto and mixed in with the wet stuff. If you think the Woolwax Hard-On product would be a mistake, please let me know why. Thanks!

Here's the Amazon link and the Woolwax site.

Edit - I just thought of one negative, but this would be applicable to the regular Woolwax coating as well as the dry coating, and that is that the helpful torque markings on certain bolts would be covered up. Of course, rust would eventually do that also . . .

 

[255/85]

I'm looking into undercoating options, and figured now - with a brand new vehicle and everything pretty pristine underneath - is the best time to get it done. One option I've seen that I see no discussion about in this thread is the Woolwax Hard-On product. Seriously, that's what it's called. Here's the company description:

Any experience or thoughts on this product? Pros and cons? I'm thinking it might be good for protecting against water crossings, salt air and mist from beach driving, etc. The harder dry coating seems better suited to that sort of exposure than a wetter product. I can imagine how easily sand, dirt, dust, and mud will get glommed onto and mixed in with the wet stuff. If you think the Woolwax Hard-On product would be a mistake, please let me know why. Thanks!


Edit - I just thought of one negative, but this would be applicable to the regular Woolwax coating as well as the dry coating, and that is that the helpful torque markings on certain bolts would be covered up. Of course, rust would eventually do that also . . .

My approach is to fill frame rails and other inaccessible cavities with a creeping self-healing wax in hopes it will get into pinch welds, etc. as I can't easily monitor the condition of those areas or repair. Yes, dirt and dust will stick to wax products.

I use abrasion resistant coatings on any surface that will take road gravel, etc. like inner fenders and the outside/underside of frame rails. Folks with color powder-coated Grenadier frames may have to consider Line X or other permanent tinted coating.

On mechanical chassis components I apply fresh paint (spray can) as often as I can. I do touch-ups at every service if needed. No gloopy coatings here. I don't want anything drivetrain related obscured from easy visual inspection including nuts, bolts, cotter pins, tubing, hoses, wiring, yadda yadda.

The rest of the underbody panels I clean and use clear spray paint on any area that seems to be showing accumulation of dirt or abrasion, etc and along any panel seams where paint cracking may allow moisture to intrude. As soon as any area appears to be heading for real jeopardy I clean, prep, re-paint and elevate my approach to one of the above protocols. I dislike irreversible tactics. It sounds more time consuming than it is but indiscriminately glooping on messy, sticky coatings is a nightmare to contend with down the road. Plus, some future owner will spit on your grave.

 

[Shaky]

On a recent 4WD 24/7 YouTube video, that I posted in the car wash thread. A 4x4 detailer had installed a flush system into the chassis of his defender.

Basically he had irrigation tubs through both chassis legs that were linked to a tap at the bag, he could just link this up to a hose and then flush any crap out. He also demonstrated how he could also flush the chassis with protectants in the same manner.

I don’t actually think this would be that hard of a task to complete if one desired this fitted to a Grenny

 

[Bruce]

Folks with color powder-coated Grenadier frames may have to consider Line X or other permanent tinted coating.

If someone was going to Line X their frame I doubt they'd have paid for the powder coating. I figured whatever color it came would get to the same brown eventually, and adding a wax coating would just speed that up.

 

[ChaosDogg]

I am planning on giving this a go, the marketing does seem pretty convincing.

Did either you or @Tazzieman go ahead with this? I just came back from a trip where I got mud got everywhere (the rear bash plate is pretty much a scoop) so I'm looking at options to make the cleaning process a bit easier.

 

[Tazzieman]

Did either you or @Tazzieman go ahead with this? I just came back from a trip where I got mud got everywhere (the rear bash plate is pretty much a scoop) so I'm looking at options to make the cleaning process a bit easier.

I've got some of this to try , plus lanoguard
If the rear bash plate gets jammed with dried mud I'll probably just remove it for cleaning.
Otherwise just pressure wash - and see what weeds grow on my gravel driveway!

 

[ChaosDogg]

I've got some of this to try , plus lanoguard
If the rear bash plate gets jammed with dried mud I'll probably just remove it for cleaning.
Otherwise just pressure wash - and see what weeds grow on my gravel driveway!

Yeah I took the bash plate off - this was after the pressure wash, mind you!


Was a good trip though, ended up throwing all 3 lockers on at one stage:

 

[Tazzieman]

Clay is a bastard!