Build Thread The Lobster

[DaneJa]

And I didn't really get a chance to check the freeway lane-keeping as it's been snowing today so traffic was slow and I only drove and a section of freeway without many straightaways. The ride does seem a bit more comfortable at 36 psi, of course, and the boomy resonance over bumps is reduced a bit.

 

[DaneJa]

I thought I might install the Le Tech ladder tonight since it would be a quick and easy job. Well I don't know how others have been breaking these bolts loose on the OEM ladder. The first one I tried I twisted a Wera torx key on. So, in a proper demonstration of foolish stubbornness, I pulled out the impact driver and stripped the torx pattern right out of that bolt head. I'll attempt an extraction at some point but it'll be tricky since it's inside of a ~3" tube. I really hope they're not all like that, but I didn't try any others out of frustration.

 

[Jiman01]

A little more red to your overhead console shelf…1/8”shock cord with some paracord girth hitched/prusik’ed to make sunglasses and other stuff easier to slide in.

 

[DaneJa]

Le Tech Ladder install:
I managed to extract the screw that I, luckily only partially, stripped when attempting to remove the OEM ladder. A sharper TX40 bit, a hammer for some bargaining power, a T-handle for more tactility, and some care did the trick to get it out. Looks like the impact bit was hopping out of the teeth and only stripped the outer face. The alternative method I was contemplating does not bare mentioning -- suffice to say the OEM ladder would not have survived. With that done, the rest of the job was quick and painless following Le Tech's instructions.

NATO plug weatherproofing:
It's likely not as large a concern here in Colorado, but many forum members have had issues corrosion causing the NATO plug cap to be difficult to remove. Following some ideas/recommendations from a thread on the subject, I picked up a 2" rubber gasket from McMaster-Carr to at least deflect some water from the threads and applied silicon lubricant to the threads. Doesn't look like there is any sort of seal or gasket on the cap from factory, so I may add a thin gasket inside the cap later.

Bison Gear Overhead Cargo Shelf Under Basket rattle:
In order to solve a rattle from this area, I unmounted the under basket and applied some foam tape. As the truck traversed bumps the large flat shelf would deflect downward creating a gap between it and the under basket, which would contact and rattle when springing back to flat. In the first image you can see the gap as I pull down on the unit a bit. I ended up moving the foam tape a bit from the image to contact more of the shelf, but you get the idea.

Abenteuer 4x4 Sliders mount paint:
The slider assemblies themselves are rather beefy at a combined 150lbs of stainless steel, which seems to match for weight with other strong options. They do not have a center mount, so nothing in the center to hang up on. Remains to be seen if they will deflect in the center, but they appear strong at first glance. The mounts are 6mm and the slider rails are 3mm with several linear bends almost fully boxing them in.

Jack Wagon Overland imports these sliders to the US, but they only carry the full black powder coated option. I decided to paint the mounts to somewhat match the frame's Halo Red using Rustoleum Apple Red Satin spray paint which should make touch-ups later easy. I haven't taken them down to the truck to see how close the match is yet, but considering the location these are going it'll be close enough for me in any case. I'm terrible with a rattle can and had a few drips, but they're going to be abused and under the truck anyway.

 

[Dokatd]

Are you going to part with the stock ladder. I would be interested. PM me a price if interested.

 

[Clark Kent]

Le Tech Ladder install:
I managed to extract the screw that I, luckily only partially, stripped when attempting to remove the OEM ladder. A sharper TX40 bit, a hammer for some bargaining power, a T-handle for more tactility, and some care did the trick to get it out. Looks like the impact bit was hopping out of the teeth and only stripped the outer face. The alternative method I was contemplating does not bare mentioning -- suffice to say the OEM ladder would not have survived. With that done, the rest of the job was quick and painless following Le Tech's instructions.

View attachment 7892245

View attachment 7892246

View attachment 7892247


NATO plug weatherproofing:
It's likely not as large a concern here in Colorado, but many forum members have had issues corrosion causing the NATO plug cap to be difficult to remove. Following some ideas/recommendations from a thread on the subject, I picked up a 2" rubber gasket from McMaster-Carr to at least deflect some water from the threads and applied silicon lubricant to the threads. Doesn't look like there is any sort of seal or gasket on the cap from factory, so I may add a thin gasket inside the cap later.

View attachment 7892252

View attachment 7892253


Bison Gear Overhead Cargo Shelf Under Basket rattle:
In order to solve a rattle from this area, I unmounted the under basket and applied some foam tape. As the truck traversed bumps the large flat shelf would deflect downward creating a gap between it and the under basket, which would contact and rattle when springing back to flat. In the first image you can see the gap as I pull down on the unit a bit. I ended up moving the foam tape a bit from the image to contact more of the shelf, but you get the idea.

View attachment 7892254

View attachment 7892256


Abenteuer 4x4 Sliders mount paint:
The slider assemblies themselves are rather beefy at a combined 150lbs of stainless steel, which seems to match for weight with other strong options. They do not have a center mount, so nothing in the center to hang up on. Remains to be seen if they will deflect in the center, but they appear strong at first glance. The mounts are 6mm and the slider rails are 3mm with several linear bends almost fully boxing them in.

Jack Wagon Overland imports these sliders to the US, but they only carry the full black powder coated option. I decided to paint the mounts to somewhat match the frame's Halo Red using Rustoleum Apple Red Satin spray paint which should make touch-ups later easy. I haven't taken them down to the truck to see how close the match is yet, but considering the location these are going it'll be close enough for me in any case. I'm terrible with a rattle can and had a few drips, but they're going to be abused and under the truck anyway.

View attachment 7892257

View attachment 7892258


View attachment 7892259

View attachment 7892260

View attachment 7892261

View attachment 7892262

You have been busy. Looks like you're having fun with your vehicle

That NATO cap idea looks familiar..
The inside of the cap should be rubber lined. Sufficient(ish) to stop water getting to the electrical contacts but the damage is already done to the threads hence the gasket over the body to fill in the gap.

 

[RYAustralia]

I've driven two of these at speed with standard/factory steering stabiliser -comfortable on highway up to 166kph (top speed), no steering wobble and effortless. If you're not experiencing the same then there is maybe something different in your setup compared to the ones I've driven (Australian and Namibian vehicles). If it were me I would start with dealer checking steering and suspension setup rather than spending money on aftermarket just yet. Not saying there isn't a place for those, but might not be needed.

 

[RYAustralia]

I love the suffer and wait it out for a marginal result attitude.

Why are people soooo opposed to changing out a steering stabilizer, it's just a crazy mentality to me.

Especially when money is not typically the issue. Worst case you get a better part than stock and it feels about the same. Best case it makes the truck drive right down the highway. Having driven the roads in Colorado in a stock Gren I can speak from experience, the stock setup blows on those roads.

Not my experience in a diesel Aussie or Namibian vehicle. Maybe the US gas/petrol versions handle differently?

 

[DaneJa]

You have been busy. Looks like you're having fun with your vehicle

That NATO cap idea looks familiar..
The inside of the cap should be rubber lined. Sufficient(ish) to stop water getting to the electrical contacts but the damage is already done to the threads hence the gasket over the body to fill in the gap.

Yeah, I stole it from some guy here.

 

[DaneJa]

I have driven a few hours on the freeways since airing down to 36 psi now. It's far better than it was. I still have to stay on top of it, but I at least don't feel like I'm fighting it the whole time to stay in lane. It's acceptable but not great now. To some degree I'm sure I'm adapting a bit, but I do think it's improved. The truck needs to go to the dealer for a small paint chip correction on the driver door from a careless handler during shipping. When it does I'll ask about the alignment and see if they can center the wheel as it's a few degrees left of center.

I visited the Air Down Gear Up guys yesterday. They're going to use my build to engineer their 2-drawer and sleeping platform solution for the Grenadier. I really liked the assemblies they had in the shop; they're solid as hell and well considered for maximal utility. It looks like ADGU is going to be able to bring something to market that I wasn't able to find in my search: a sleeping platform that offers the full length from the rear doors to the back of the front seats.