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Starlink Mini

300chris

Grenadier Owner
Local time
3:46 PM
Joined
Dec 9, 2021
Messages
45
Location
Colorado, USA
So seeing that Starling mini is out, and at least for US they have a plan that allows for in-motion use. Has anyone yet installed one on their roof rack? Thinking since the mini will run off of 12v DC and is self-contained, could just use one of the existing power taps and run it from that.

-Chris
 
I may end up ordering it, I believe the Roam plan can be deactivated/activated at will, so that seems convenient
 
Views on the starlink vs. a weboost setup? I'm often in low to no signal areas and would benefit from connectivity. Weboost seems intrusive on the wiring front compared to starlink (I'm assuming starlink could be connected to the on roof power ports?).
 
I'm considering a Starlink mini. I may be wrong, but I haven't seen a fully mobile Weboost setup yet. You have to permanently attach the latter to your vehicle. A starlink mini can be carried in your backpack and used out in the bush.
 
Views on the starlink vs. a weboost setup? I'm often in low to no signal areas and would benefit from connectivity. Weboost seems intrusive on the wiring front compared to starlink (I'm assuming starlink could be connected to the on roof power ports?).
They are completely different routes to gaining communication.

If you're in no signal areas, the Starlink will be your best bet, assuming you have a clear(ish) view of the sky.

WeBoost is fantastic in low signal areas, but primarily for voice/text instead of super fast data (as the WeBoost is not MIMO).

It *could* be powered off of one of the roof switches, assuming you order a shorter cable, as well as the appropriate adapters to go from DTP plug to the 5521 connector (and can waterproof the 5521 connection).

The problems come when you attempt to use the provided 15m cable with 12v power, because the amp draw is exceeds what the tiny (28AWG?) wires in the cable can carry, and it'll start cutting out and rebooting. This is why the provided AC adapter outputs 30v. For my setup I'm running a 5m cable (purchased on Amazon with appropriate 5521 weather resistant ends) as well as running a 12v-24v step up converter. At 24v it works even with the 15m cable. Looking back at it after the fact, I would have ordered a 12v-48v converter and allowed the wiring to run at an even lower amperage.

For my set up the WeBoost external antenna is mounted on the roof rack and the Starlink will be as well (currently on a magnet mount)
 
They are completely different routes to gaining communication.

If you're in no signal areas, the Starlink will be your best bet, assuming you have a clear(ish) view of the sky.

WeBoost is fantastic in low signal areas, but primarily for voice/text instead of super fast data (as the WeBoost is not MIMO).

It *could* be powered off of one of the roof switches, assuming you order a shorter cable, as well as the appropriate adapters to go from DTP plug to the 5521 connector (and can waterproof the 5521 connection).

The problems come when you attempt to use the provided 15m cable with 12v power, because the amp draw is exceeds what the tiny (28AWG?) wires in the cable can carry, and it'll start cutting out and rebooting. This is why the provided AC adapter outputs 30v. For my setup I'm running a 5m cable (purchased on Amazon with appropriate 5521 weather resistant ends) as well as running a 12v-24v step up converter. At 24v it works even with the 15m cable. Looking back at it after the fact, I would have ordered a 12v-48v converter and allowed the wiring to run at an even lower amperage.

For my set up the WeBoost external antenna is mounted on the roof rack and the Starlink will be as well (currently on a magnet mount)
Thats very helpful, my issue is I am constantly on calls which inconveniently drop at the worst times in the valleys around here - maintaining signal is clutch. But, I will also take the kids camping in more remote regions so the starlink would be useful when farther afield. I am installing a roof rack in near term so may consider a permanent install of both systems on the rack. Any tips on routing wiring into the cabin would be appreciated, as the WeBoost looks like the roof antenna needs to connect via wire to the internal amplifier (maybe I'm wrong).
 
Any tips on routing wiring into the cabin would be appreciated, as the WeBoost looks like the roof antenna needs to connect via wire to the internal amplifier (maybe I'm wrong).
It does... It is easy enough to either pass over (or under) the door seal at the rear doors. If going over the seal, make sure it is at the bottom and with a drip loop
 
My Starlink Mini has come in but the Stalink roof rack mount doesn't fit the wide Leitner bars. I ordered this as a mount and it should be here tomorrow so hopefully I have a weekend project. My plan for the short term is to get another DC cable for the starlink, cut it and put a DT connector on and then use one of the roof power outlets for now. Later, when I put lights on the roof rack, I'll run all the wires in the car from behind the grab handle.
 
As anand explained, if you are going to use 12v power direct to the dish you really need a bigger wire than the one supplied with the mini. Higher voltage or bigger conductors are necessary. I’ve been able to use the Mini in my plane with a USB-C battery pack (20v), so that’s another option.

These guys have the wires already done up, and lots of pictures that help illustrate what you need even if you don’t buy from them:

 
That's a good idea and will do that. The extra wire I have for the mini is 20 awg. The Starlink specs say 25-40 watts, so at 12V should be 2.1 to 4.2 amps right? If I'm only running it a couple of feet from the dish to the roof connector I should be own shouldn't I?
 
My Starlink Mini has come in but the Stalink roof rack mount doesn't fit the wide Leitner bars. I ordered this as a mount and it should be here tomorrow so hopefully I have a weekend project. My plan for the short term is to get another DC cable for the starlink, cut it and put a DT connector on and then use one of the roof power outlets for now. Later, when I put lights on the roof rack, I'll run all the wires in the car from behind the grab handle.
Could the starlink mount bolts be substituted with Leitner trak loks?
 
Could the starlink mount bolts be substituted with Leitner trak loks?
Definitely; just need longer bolts and have them screw into the trak loks

edit: assuming you have a mount for the dish that has bolts to affix it
 
You could use the Starlink mount and attach it to the tops of the crossbars with t-nuts. The bolts that come with the mount are about an inch long with 1/4 fine threading and I'm guessing would need to be cut or replaced to use trak loks / t-nuts. The holes in the mount are about 4 inches apart so you would need to have two crossbars close to each other to have one bolt in each one. Here are some pictures of the Starlink Mini mount from Starlink.
 

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That's a good idea and will do that. The extra wire I have for the mini is 20 awg. The Starlink specs say 25-40 watts, so at 12V should be 2.1 to 4.2 amps right? If I'm only running it a couple of feet from the dish to the roof connector I should be own shouldn't I?
Depending on the wire quality 20awg is really right on the edge of being too small. 18awg copper minimum should work, but 16awg would give more headroom especially in high heat environments.
 
Last edited:
View: https://x.com/DVAMechanics/status/1822306061988069873


This is how I did it a few weeks ago. I will make up a few extra cables and post them on our website.
Here's the link to the cable if anyone needs one.

 
View: https://x.com/DVAMechanics/status/1822306061988069873


This is how I did it a few weeks ago. I will make up a few extra cables and post them on our website.

So seeing that Starling mini is out, and at least for US they have a plan that allows for in-motion use. Has anyone yet installed one on their roof rack? Thinking since the mini will run off of 12v DC and is self-contained, could just use one of the existing power taps and run it from that.

-Chris

I'm pretty happy with the performance so far. Open sky on the highway, I can get ~100 Mbps. Facetime and audio are actually better over Starlink than strong 5G for some reason.
 
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