Side Steps - build your own

[Oz4WDriva]

G’day, having enjoyed side steps on my 4WD vehicles over many decades it was incumbent on me to provide them on my new Grennie. Besides obvious ease of entry to the cabin, front and rear side steps play a role in erecting the roof top tent and providing access to equipment stored on the roof. They also offer some further vehicle protection. My design criteria includes: able to carry 100 kg, fend off low scrub and not protrude more than about 25 mm, have minimal impact on the performance of the sliders, and, not have sharp edges to protect pedestrians and vehicle users. Additionally, able to be removed in the field in the event of damage.

I do not know of any readily available side steps so . . . my side steps were ‘home made’ with not much more than an angle grinder/cutter, an arc welder and some basic fabrication tools. Recycled materials were used other than the square hollow tube (25 mm rhs). Mounting is 50 mm ‘U’ bolts running parallel to the chassis to slide over rocks, tree trunks, etc. Overall length is 1730 mm and width of 100 mm. (More detailed info for those that want it.)

 

[DaBull]

G’day, having enjoyed side steps on my 4WD vehicles over many decades it was incumbent on me to provide them on my new Grennie. Besides obvious ease of entry to the cabin, front and rear side steps play a role in erecting the roof top tent and providing access to equipment stored on the roof. They also offer some further vehicle protection. My design criteria includes: able to carry 100 kg, fend off low scrub and not protrude more than about 25 mm, have minimal impact on the performance of the sliders, and, not have sharp edges to protect pedestrians and vehicle users. Additionally, able to be removed in the field in the event of damage.

I do not know of any readily available side steps so . . . my side steps were ‘home made’ with not much more than an angle grinder/cutter, an arc welder and some basic fabrication tools. Recycled materials were used other than the square hollow tube (25 mm rhs). Mounting is 50 mm ‘U’ bolts running parallel to the chassis to slide over rocks, tree trunks, etc. Overall length is 1730 mm and width of 100 mm. (More detailed info for those that want it.)

Hi Oz4WDriva, Those look really nice with the Grenadier. Nice addition to the Grenadier Rock Sliders.
DaBull

 

[Tazzieman]

Well done!
We (esp my wife) have found the rear tyre foldable step to be really useful getting to stuff on the roof rack.

 

[pt888]

G’day, having enjoyed side steps on my 4WD vehicles over many decades it was incumbent on me to provide them on my new Grennie. Besides obvious ease of entry to the cabin, front and rear side steps play a role in erecting the roof top tent and providing access to equipment stored on the roof. They also offer some further vehicle protection. My design criteria includes: able to carry 100 kg, fend off low scrub and not protrude more than about 25 mm, have minimal impact on the performance of the sliders, and, not have sharp edges to protect pedestrians and vehicle users. Additionally, able to be removed in the field in the event of damage.

I do not know of any readily available side steps so . . . my side steps were ‘home made’ with not much more than an angle grinder/cutter, an arc welder and some basic fabrication tools. Recycled materials were used other than the square hollow tube (25 mm rhs). Mounting is 50 mm ‘U’ bolts running parallel to the chassis to slide over rocks, tree trunks, etc. Overall length is 1730 mm and width of 100 mm. (More detailed info for those that want it.)

Pete, I have been mulling over the concept of a side step fitted over the sliders for a while. I really like this and might try to copy.
So it looks like you have bent some flat steel plate to get the desired angle, drilled this for fitting the U bolts and checker plate. The RHS is bolted to the checker plate also. The purpose of the RHS around the edge being to avoid a sharp edge slicing anything (or anybody!).
Were you able to bend the steel plate in a vice with heat (I have a propane torch) or did you use a press (which I don't have access to)? What thickness is it?
What was the welding required as I can not see a welded join. Why couldn't the checker plate be welded to the RHS and or the steel plate? It would still be removable via the u bolts wouldn't it?
If you have any detailed drawings please post.

Thanks Paul

 

[Oz4WDriva]

Hi Paul, thanks for your interest. Your questions:
Yes, flat steel plate bent to the desired angle and drilled for the U bolts. RHS is a mirror of the LHS. Yes, hollow steel tube gives strength and a flat surface to reduce impact injury. I feel that hollow steel tube is also easier to work with than round pipe if you do not have a pipe bender.
Yes, I bent the steel plate in a vice and heated along a scored line to keep the bend square and in the correct location. I used an adjustable wrench (shifter) to bend after heating with a propane torch. To score the steel plate use a cutting wheel along the surface of the steel. Use an old tile as a guide for the cutting wheel to keep the line straight and at 90 degrees to the centreline. It is 1/8 inch steel plate, yes imperial measurement as it is recycled material and not metric size.
The welding is between the mounting plates and the hollow steel tube. If you weld the plates to the hollow steel tube expect the hollow steel tube to bend when the weld cools. You need a chain and a bottle jack to straighten the bar after it cools. (Or a press if you have access to one.) If you do not straighten the bar the side step will have a large curve in it.
The checker plate cannot be welded to the bar as they are dissimilar materials, mild steel and aluminium. They have to be bolted together somehow. I used 'rivnuts'.
A 'rough' drawing with some instructions and Bunnings references is attached.

Hope this helps, Cheers Pete

 

[pt888]

Hi Paul, thanks for your interest. Your questions:
Yes, flat steel plate bent to the desired angle and drilled for the U bolts. RHS is a mirror of the LHS. Yes, hollow steel tube gives strength and a flat surface to reduce impact injury. I feel that hollow steel tube is also easier to work with than round pipe if you do not have a pipe bender.
Yes, I bent the steel plate in a vice and heated along a scored line to keep the bend square and in the correct location. I used an adjustable wrench (shifter) to bend after heating with a propane torch. To score the steel plate use a cutting wheel along the surface of the steel. Use an old tile as a guide for the cutting wheel to keep the line straight and at 90 degrees to the centreline. It is 1/8 inch steel plate, yes imperial measurement as it is recycled material and not metric size.
The welding is between the mounting plates and the hollow steel tube. If you weld the plates to the hollow steel tube expect the hollow steel tube to bend when the weld cools. You need a chain and a bottle jack to straighten the bar after it cools. (Or a press if you have access to one.) If you do not straighten the bar the side step will have a large curve in it.
The checker plate cannot be welded to the bar as they are dissimilar materials, mild steel and aluminium. They have to be bolted together somehow. I used 'rivnuts'.
A 'rough' drawing with some instructions and Bunnings references is attached.

Hope this helps, Cheers Pete

Thanks so much for the detail.