Reardoor wont open

[Murray2105]

has anyone had the problem of not being able to open rear doors? I have had the occasional problem of not being able to open rear doors. Would randomly happen. Unfortunately it has been 2 weeks now since i have been able to open the main doors.

 

[Tenac]

Let me be the typical helpful forum poster. Did you unlock it?

All kidding aside nope no issue with the back doors opening, just closing time to time which was resolved with a quick visit to the shop.

 

[anand]

Have you tried from the inside? I remember someone posted at one point saying the button had become detached from the mechanism

 

[Max]

I have had to in the past push very hard on the button almost to the point of saying this not going to open, you might even try putting a broom handle end on it and put some body weight into it...yesterday I had a service and warranty work done on the Gren at Noosa and was told, they are waiting on the parts for a recall on the door mechanism/buttons. I would inquire with your agent.

 

[Stu_Barnes]

Mine definitely feels a bit grindy, and it takes a lot more force than the other to open, is there any noticeable sagging on your doors or misalignment @Max ? I know there have been a few with slightly misaligned rear doors in the USA.

 

[Ovrland Bill]

Have you tried from the inside? I remember someone posted at one point saying the button had become detached from the mechanism

That was my occurrence, where the button did not engage the actual opening mechanism when the ‘unlock’ (all doors) command was given. When I began to operate the interior handle I heard a “click” as the outside button re-engaged. This has occurred twice.

 

[Max]

Mine definitely feels a bit grindy, and it takes a lot more force than the other to open, is there any noticeable sagging on your doors or misalignment @Max ? I know there have been a few with slightly misaligned rear doors in the USA.

There is something going on, when I close the door with force it's hard to open but if just push it shut softly, no issue at all Stu_Barnes

 

[DenisM]

has anyone had the problem of not being able to open rear doors? I have had the occasional problem of not being able to open rear doors. Would randomly happen. Unfortunately it has been 2 weeks now since i have been able to open the main doors.

@Murray2105 ..do you suspect it's a solenoid failure of the auto unlock i.e. does the button just press inward with no resistance, or is it that the button does not budge?. If it's the former, you might try locking/unlocking several times using the master switch on the driver's door.
If it's the latter, try pushing "hard" with your shoulder against the main door to try and compress the seals then press the button firmly ...
This was my experience a few months ago: While putting pressure on the main door, I pressed the button and the lock freed itself. I have since sprayed the mechanism with dry seal ptfe spray and dabbed the locking mechanisms top and bottom especially the latches, with "white" grease. No issues since.

 

[Murray2105]

Thanks for that. It doesn’t sound as if it is not unlocking. I have a draw system installed and cannot reach the inside handle.

 

[Murray2105]

Have you tried from the inside? I remember someone posted at one point saying the button had become detached from the mechanism

Problem is i have draw system fitted and can’t get to the inside handle.

 

[globalgregors]

Problem is i have draw system fitted and can’t get to the inside handle.

Ah, we appear to have the same problem @Murray2105 . What did you end up doing?

 

[Murray2105]

I haven’t done anything yet. Have to try and remove everything to access inside handle. I can’t hear the lock operating when unlocking with the remote.

 

[DenisM]

I've just tried a small experiment:
With assistance of the faithful co-driver in the driver's seat, I sat in the rear compartment, pulled both doors shut and co-driver locked the doors with the switch on the driver's door. The handle on the "30%" door needs to be pulled twice (like the bonnet /hood handle) to free the latch.

I shut both doors firmly then locked the car with the remote. Again, the "30%" door latch released on the second pull and opened without the alarm activating!
So, have established that the mechanical act of operating the internal door handle overrides the solenoid locking mechanism

My first thought for a solution is to obtain a 1.5m length (or there abouts) of 1/2" plastic conduit and thread it with cord or thin wire with a "noose" protruding from the end to snare the handle. Approach the door from the back seat over / between whatever might be in the way, if possible and "fish" for the handle with the noose dangling from the conduit. Once over the handle tighten the noose and pull the door handle..twice... that's the theory...as for practice... Thin wire instead of the cord at least would enable one to manipulate the noose into position more effectively to snare the handle.

The fact that @Murray2105 couldn't hear the lock deactivating implies it's either the solenoid itself, or a perhaps plug has come loose or a fuse has failed. I wondered if each door solenoid is separately fused, possibly not, with a single fuse for the system.

The answer to this just might live under the rear seats...a circuit diagram would be handy! (HINT for any IA sleuths perusing this forum!!! we're still waiting!) The dealer might be kind enough to email you the necessary info... that was the advice from Ineos Australia /Asia Pacific CEO Justin Hocevar at the tech talk in Brisbane last year.
First things first ...get the door open...

 

[Murray2105]

Thanks for that. Will try tomorrow.

 

[globalgregors]

I've just tried a small experiment:
With assistance of the faithful co-driver in the driver's seat, I sat in the rear compartment, pulled both doors shut and co-driver locked the doors with the switch on the driver's door. The handle on the "30%" door needs to be pulled twice (like the bonnet /hood handle) to free the latch.

I shut both doors firmly then locked the car with the remote. Again, the "30%" door latch released on the second pull and opened without the alarm activating!
So, have established that the mechanical act of operating the internal door handle overrides the solenoid locking mechanism

My first thought for a solution is to obtain a 1.5m length (or there abouts) of 1/2" plastic conduit and thread it with cord or thin wire with a "noose" protruding from the end to snare the handle. Approach the door from the back seat over / between whatever might be in the way, if possible and "fish" for the handle with the noose dangling from the conduit. Once over the handle tighten the noose and pull the door handle..twice... that's the theory...as for practice... Thin wire instead of the cord at least would enable one to manipulate the noose into position more effectively to snare the handle.

The fact that @Murray2105 couldn't hear the lock deactivating implies it's either the solenoid itself, or a perhaps plug has come loose or a fuse has failed. I wondered if each door solenoid is separately fused, possibly not, with a single fuse for the system.

The answer to this just might live under the rear seats...a circuit diagram would be handy! (HINT for any IA sleuths perusing this forum!!! we're still waiting!) The dealer might be kind enough to email you the necessary info... that was the advice from Ineos Australia /Asia Pacific CEO Justin Hocevar at the tech talk in Brisbane last year.
First things first ...get the door open...

Indeed, this is loosely equivalent to my own idea. We have the additional problem of the loadspace being filled with luggage and a cargo barrier in the way. Our drawer system is almost snug against the rear door so it will be interesting to see if the manual latch can be activated without modifications to the drawer installation.

However, as Iggy is still in the possession of Colombian Customs experimentation will need to wait until tomorrow night at the earliest.

As it’s Easter I’ve also not yet consulted Ineos techs with the question.

We had been seeing intermittent issues with the lock, however only with one key - so I am hoping that the gods of intermittent faults will cast the dice in our favour, allowing me to implement a mechanical fix in case it happens again. I’m thinking to drill a hole in the handle and attach some ripcord so that it might be activated despite the obstruction of the drawer system/fridge.

The fuse diagram indicates a single fuse for central locking, and the intermittent nature of the fault in previous weeks does suggest a solenoid issue. Other than the malfunctioning rear door, the central locking is working normally. Drivers door master unlock does not release the door.

The double-release finding is super helpful @DenisM so thank you for experimenting on your side!

If anyone is heading truly remote with a fully packed loadspace a little mod might be in order. I’ll email GrenadierUSA later today to see if they’re interested in fabricating a replacement (billet?) handle that would make a better emergency release.

 

[globalgregors]

I haven’t done anything yet. Have to try and remove everything to access inside handle. I can’t hear the lock operating when unlocking with the remote.

Ah yes, same symptom. Our battery was down to 67% after two weeks in a container so I’m also wondering if that’s a factor. Please keep us updated and we’ll do likewise.

 

[Logsplitter]

Ah yes, same symptom. Our battery was down to 67% after two weeks in a container so I’m also wondering if that’s a factor. Please keep us updated and we’ll do likewise.

So they are not disconnecting your batteries for shipping ?

 

[globalgregors]

So they are not disconnecting your batteries for shipping ?

I left it connected as it was only meant to be a three day container transit (two weeks later…) and we were racing the clock.
Things were a bit off-piste in Puerto Santo Tomás de Castilla, we loaded Iggy ourselves with assistance only where required.