might have to amend the old saying; "if it floats, flies or f@cks, then rent it"$2 grand! Like a boat - nice to have a friend with one
might have to amend the old saying; "if it floats, flies or f@cks, then rent it"$2 grand! Like a boat - nice to have a friend with one
The only puncture's I have ever had are screws, steel bar or rivets - never had one due to natural conditions to be honest and luckily! The last was a piece of 6mm reo about 100mm long, which was actually on a main road... likely fell out the back of a skip. Anyway, $360 later and I was okI bought one from ARB about 15 yrs ago. I vacuum packed/ sealed the plugs (with my "workshop" Aldi food vacuum sealer ) They're quite good for A/T tyres. For the odd puncture in a Subaru ('tek' screws usually from lazy tradies as there's a lot of rebuilding happening in the inner city surrounds) I use the Aldi Workzone kit. 43, 000 km no leaks... only driven around the suburbs
ARB for the RTW and more recently Saber Offroad, both good. These use self-vulcanising repair cords.On the subject of puncture kits, does anyone have good experience with a particular brand/type?
The conventional rubber plug and glue types works ok, but I did use a very particular 'umbrella' style plug which I use to have for my motorbikes, and then used one for my Ranger a few years ago. I just cannot seem to find the umbrella type kits for 4X4... what are you all thinking of using?
I’ve still got an old Safety Seal kitThe only puncture's I have ever had are screws, steel bar or rivets - never had one due to natural conditions to be honest and luckily! The last was a piece of 6mm reo about 100mm long, which was actually on a main road... likely fell out the back of a skip. Anyway, $360 later and I was ok
Well I've tested the rock sliders, it might be rude not to crack out the standard jack and see just exactly where the two shock absorber mounting brackets on the axle are...Would it not be as for most solid axled vehicles , plus the rockslider if fitted?
Is that still relevant if you have Tpms valves fitted?Replacement valves are part of a good repair kit. A bit more work than that guy's invention, a lot cheaper!
See diy
View: https://youtu.be/HZSvNRifTDw
No idea if you have the fancy factory ones. I have cheap external ones on my Disco ; they work fine and are easily replaced.Is that still relevant if you have Tpms valves fitted?
Do you mean for maintenance/tyre replacement or for recovery? With the bottle jack provided or with a high lift jack or other?What is the lifting point if you go with side steps versus the rock sliders? Or neither if you are waiting on after market rock sliders with useable steps? Thanks in advance.
exhaust jack likely problematic due to twin exhaust pipes... unless exhaust jack has alternate fitting to take air compressor of course....Do you mean for maintenance/tyre replacement or for recovery? With the bottle jack provided or with a high lift jack or other?
Taking a punt that you mean recoveries using a high lift jack (which is when you’d be using the rock sliders as a lifting point), I’m not sure there are any options from the side other than using a jack mate (e.g lifting using the wheel rim). Front and back options are also not great, as the metal bumpers don’t feature a dedicated lifting point and the plastic bumper presumably out of the question.
At the rear lifting with the tow point is usually possible but decidedly unsafe.
Recovery lifting with an exhaust jack possibly a bit easier on the Gren as it looks like it can be lined up under a chassis member (front/rear) or outrigger (sides).
Isn’t it going through one collector? Just hold a flipflop over the open pipe (or maybe that’s sketchy farmer practice speaking). Plumbers bung would be the more adult alternative but stand clear in case you’ve made a pop gun.exhaust jack likely problematic due to twin exhaust pipes... unless exhaust jack has alternate fitting to take air compressor of course....
Good question!: The side steps are limited to 300kg vs rock sliders 2000kg. So with the vehicle weighing 750kg a corner minimum, no jacking under side steps....What is the lifting point if you go with side steps versus the rock sliders? Or neither if you are waiting on after market rock sliders with useable steps? Thanks in advance.
Is this for changing a tyre? It’s rigid axles...Good question!: The side steps are limited to 300kg vs rock sliders 2000kg. So with the vehicle weighing 750kg a corner minimum, no jacking under side steps....
EDIT: from the Owner's Manual
"Position the jack between the two shock absorber mounting brackets on the axle."
I’ve got the jack mate with my hilift. Seems like a safer option to me.Do you mean for maintenance/tyre replacement or for recovery? With the bottle jack provided or with a high lift jack or other?
Taking a punt that you mean recoveries using a high lift jack (which is when you’d be using the rock sliders as a lifting point), I’m not sure there are any options from the side other than using a jack mate (e.g lifting using the wheel rim). Front and back options are also not great, as the metal bumpers don’t feature a dedicated lifting point and the plastic bumper presumably out of the question.
At the rear lifting with the tow point is usually possible but decidedly unsafe.
Recovery lifting with an exhaust jack possibly a bit easier on the Gren as it looks like it can be lined up under a chassis member (front/rear) or outrigger (sides).
The only thing I wonder is whether the holes in the steel rims are large enough to permit the hooks…?I’ve got the jack mate with my hilift. Seems like a safer option to me.