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Puncture

It may have already been discussed in another thread. But I haven't found anything else. Does anyone have experience with replacement valves? I found these...

 
On the subject of puncture kits, does anyone have good experience with a particular brand/type?
The conventional rubber plug and glue types works ok, but I did use a very particular 'umbrella' style plug which I use to have for my motorbikes, and then used one for my Ranger a few years ago. I just cannot seem to find the umbrella type kits for 4X4... what are you all thinking of using?
 
I bought one from ARB about 15 yrs ago. I vacuum packed/ sealed the plugs (with my "workshop" Aldi food vacuum sealer :) ) They're quite good for A/T tyres. For the odd puncture in a Subaru ('tek' screws usually from lazy tradies as there's a lot of rebuilding happening in the inner city surrounds) I use the Aldi Workzone kit. 43, 000 km no leaks... only driven around the suburbs
 
I bought one from ARB about 15 yrs ago. I vacuum packed/ sealed the plugs (with my "workshop" Aldi food vacuum sealer :) ) They're quite good for A/T tyres. For the odd puncture in a Subaru ('tek' screws usually from lazy tradies as there's a lot of rebuilding happening in the inner city surrounds) I use the Aldi Workzone kit. 43, 000 km no leaks... only driven around the suburbs
The only puncture's I have ever had are screws, steel bar or rivets - never had one due to natural conditions to be honest and luckily! The last was a piece of 6mm reo about 100mm long, which was actually on a main road... likely fell out the back of a skip. Anyway, $360 later and I was ok :cry:
 
On the subject of puncture kits, does anyone have good experience with a particular brand/type?
The conventional rubber plug and glue types works ok, but I did use a very particular 'umbrella' style plug which I use to have for my motorbikes, and then used one for my Ranger a few years ago. I just cannot seem to find the umbrella type kits for 4X4... what are you all thinking of using?
ARB for the RTW and more recently Saber Offroad, both good. These use self-vulcanising repair cords.
 
The only puncture's I have ever had are screws, steel bar or rivets - never had one due to natural conditions to be honest and luckily! The last was a piece of 6mm reo about 100mm long, which was actually on a main road... likely fell out the back of a skip. Anyway, $360 later and I was ok :cry:
I’ve still got an old Safety Seal kit
Safety Seal

Good bit of kit, and I still have some of the old red cords that I reckon are much better than the newer black ones that come with most kits.

Worst repair job I’ve had was 6 cords in a sidewall edge on the Connie Sue Highway, got too close to the edge of the track and a gidgee spiked me. Got me out of trouble but that tyre eventually went to heaven. One of the other guys did the same thing on one of the private aboriginal “tracks” we were lucky enough to get a permit for, and unfortunately 50 plugs wouldn’t have sorted that hole.

Hardest job was a stake right into the top of the tread block on a brand new Micky T FC2- lots of tread. Getting the stake out, using the auger and then getting a plug in there required a solid bit of timber and a heavy swing on a hammer I can tell you.

Everyone should have one of these in their vehicle I reckon.
 
What is the lifting point if you go with side steps versus the rock sliders? Or neither if you are waiting on after market rock sliders with useable steps? Thanks in advance.
 
Would it not be as for most solid axled vehicles , plus the rockslider if fitted?
Well I've tested the rock sliders, it might be rude not to crack out the standard jack and see just exactly where the two shock absorber mounting brackets on the axle are...
 
Is that still relevant if you have Tpms valves fitted?
No idea if you have the fancy factory ones. I have cheap external ones on my Disco ; they work fine and are easily replaced.
The Grenadier , isn't the pressure monitored by comparing wheel speeds? Dunno.
 
What is the lifting point if you go with side steps versus the rock sliders? Or neither if you are waiting on after market rock sliders with useable steps? Thanks in advance.
Do you mean for maintenance/tyre replacement or for recovery? With the bottle jack provided or with a high lift jack or other?

Taking a punt that you mean recoveries using a high lift jack (which is when you’d be using the rock sliders as a lifting point), I’m not sure there are any options from the side other than using a jack mate (e.g lifting using the wheel rim). Front and back options are also not great, as the metal bumpers don’t feature a dedicated lifting point and the plastic bumper presumably out of the question.

At the rear lifting with the tow point is usually possible but decidedly unsafe.

Recovery lifting with an exhaust jack possibly a bit easier on the Gren as it looks like it can be lined up under a chassis member (front/rear) or outrigger (sides).
 
Do you mean for maintenance/tyre replacement or for recovery? With the bottle jack provided or with a high lift jack or other?

Taking a punt that you mean recoveries using a high lift jack (which is when you’d be using the rock sliders as a lifting point), I’m not sure there are any options from the side other than using a jack mate (e.g lifting using the wheel rim). Front and back options are also not great, as the metal bumpers don’t feature a dedicated lifting point and the plastic bumper presumably out of the question.

At the rear lifting with the tow point is usually possible but decidedly unsafe.

Recovery lifting with an exhaust jack possibly a bit easier on the Gren as it looks like it can be lined up under a chassis member (front/rear) or outrigger (sides).
exhaust jack likely problematic due to twin exhaust pipes... unless exhaust jack has alternate fitting to take air compressor of course....
 
exhaust jack likely problematic due to twin exhaust pipes... unless exhaust jack has alternate fitting to take air compressor of course....
Isn’t it going through one collector? Just hold a flipflop over the open pipe (or maybe that’s sketchy farmer practice speaking). Plumbers bung would be the more adult alternative but stand clear in case you’ve made a pop gun.

Most come with a Schrader valve but you’d want a 100% duty cycle inflator, such as the ARB/TJM dual cylinder models.
 
What is the lifting point if you go with side steps versus the rock sliders? Or neither if you are waiting on after market rock sliders with useable steps? Thanks in advance.
Good question!: The side steps are limited to 300kg vs rock sliders 2000kg. So with the vehicle weighing 750kg a corner minimum, no jacking under side steps....
EDIT: from the Owner's Manual
"Position the jack between the two shock absorber mounting brackets on the axle."
 
Good question!: The side steps are limited to 300kg vs rock sliders 2000kg. So with the vehicle weighing 750kg a corner minimum, no jacking under side steps....
EDIT: from the Owner's Manual
"Position the jack between the two shock absorber mounting brackets on the axle."
Is this for changing a tyre? It’s rigid axles...
 
Do you mean for maintenance/tyre replacement or for recovery? With the bottle jack provided or with a high lift jack or other?

Taking a punt that you mean recoveries using a high lift jack (which is when you’d be using the rock sliders as a lifting point), I’m not sure there are any options from the side other than using a jack mate (e.g lifting using the wheel rim). Front and back options are also not great, as the metal bumpers don’t feature a dedicated lifting point and the plastic bumper presumably out of the question.

At the rear lifting with the tow point is usually possible but decidedly unsafe.

Recovery lifting with an exhaust jack possibly a bit easier on the Gren as it looks like it can be lined up under a chassis member (front/rear) or outrigger (sides).
I’ve got the jack mate with my hilift. Seems like a safer option to me.
 
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