NATO plug starter cables

[marcusnilsson]

Hi,

I’m looking for starter cables that can be connected directly to the NATO socket and to be used to jump start a variety of vehicles such as cars, atv, lawn mowers, tractors.

When I search for it here in Sweden there seems to be quite a few products readily available.

However, is there any considerations that needs to be taken here?

I’ve notice that except for length of the cable, one variable that seems to differ between the various products is the area of the wire. Some are 50mm^2, and some are 35mm^2. One specifies Amperage to 600A, one 1500A, others doesn’t mention amperage.

What should I be looking for here?

For anyone interested, these are the ones I’ve found so far;

Startkablar 1500A 35mm2 8m för lastbil

Tjocklek: 35mm2 Längd: 8m Kapacitet: 1500A Välj mellan Krokodilklämmor i båda ändar, krokodilklämmor i ena änden och Natokoppling i andra änden eller natokoppling i båda ändar.

lastbilstillbehor.com

Startkabel Nato 10m, 50mm²

• Kabeldimension 50mm² • Längd: 10m • 2-polig NATO-kontakt (hane) • Kraftiga krokodilklämmor

webshop.awimex.se

Startkabel 5m, 35 mm², NATO-anslutning

Startkabel 5m, 35 mm², NATO-anslutning Levereras i en slitstark väska. Ledararea (mm): 35 Belastning (A): 600 Kabellängd (m): 5 Form Tång: Rak Vikt (kg): 5,34

transportdelar.com

Startkabel TRUCKLIGHT EC-PL35/2-G Z NAK 6M | AutoKing.se

Startkabel EC-PL35/2-G Z NAK 6M TRUCKLIGHT | Fynda bildelar, sök med regnummer. Köp bildelar billigt.

autoking.se

 

[Bruce B]

I believe that you would be well served doing a little research about wiring length and amp loads. In brief, the higher the load and the longer the wiring run the larger the wire has to be. I’d simply make my own cables although I do these kinds of things…
This is definitely a case of bigger is better, within the limits of the NATO outlet.

 

[parb]

Can you even connect the NATO plug to the battery if the battery is out? Dont you need enough juice to activate the relay for the NATO plug?

 

[Clark Kent]

Hi,

I’m looking for starter cables that can be connected directly to the NATO socket and to be used to jump start a variety of vehicles such as cars, atv, lawn mowers, tractors.

When I search for it here in Sweden there seems to be quite a few products readily available.

However, is there any considerations that needs to be taken here?

I’ve notice that except for length of the cable, one variable that seems to differ between the various products is the area of the wire. Some are 50mm^2, and some are 35mm^2. One specifies Amperage to 600A, one 1500A, others doesn’t mention amperage.

What should I be looking for here?

For anyone interested, these are the ones I’ve found so far;

Startkablar 1500A 35mm2 8m för lastbil

Tjocklek: 35mm2 Längd: 8m Kapacitet: 1500A Välj mellan Krokodilklämmor i båda ändar, krokodilklämmor i ena änden och Natokoppling i andra änden eller natokoppling i båda ändar.

lastbilstillbehor.com

Startkabel Nato 10m, 50mm²

• Kabeldimension 50mm² • Längd: 10m • 2-polig NATO-kontakt (hane) • Kraftiga krokodilklämmor

webshop.awimex.se

Startkabel 5m, 35 mm², NATO-anslutning

Startkabel 5m, 35 mm², NATO-anslutning Levereras i en slitstark väska. Ledararea (mm): 35 Belastning (A): 600 Kabellängd (m): 5 Form Tång: Rak Vikt (kg): 5,34

transportdelar.com

Startkabel TRUCKLIGHT EC-PL35/2-G Z NAK 6M | AutoKing.se

Startkabel EC-PL35/2-G Z NAK 6M TRUCKLIGHT | Fynda bildelar, sök med regnummer. Köp bildelar billigt.

autoking.se

You will be aware that Ineos specced the NATO plug circuit for the sole purpose of powering the removable rear winch. A few have repurposed it to supply power for other uses, like shore power for caravans, etc. Ineos advise against this, as you would expect from the OEM.
You may not be aware that the circuit is fused at 350 Amps not 500 Amps per the marking on the overhead switch. So whatever your intentions are you're limited to <350 Amps. That's a bit low for a surge current application like jump starting other vehicles. I would just use a Noco or similar lithium jump starter instead.
If you proceed with your idea then use the CCA rating of the battery in the dead vehicle as a rough indicator of the current demands of the vehicle during cranking so you don't overload the NATO circuit.

 

[marcusnilsson]

Appreciate the valuable feedback.

Seems the idea is dead on arrival. Very disappointing.

I checked the type of batteries I would want to kick start and they require 900A. So nowhere near with the NATO socket’s 350A.

Seems like very silly engineering from Ineos side. Why put so much emphasis on a feature that I assume less than 5% of customers will buy (rear winch). Also the misleading marketing of 500A seems shady at best.

I’m running ARB twin compressor from that socket now, and I guess that’s better than nothing. However feels like a waste to not utilize it more/better.

 

[marcusnilsson]

Can you even connect the NATO plug to the battery if the battery is out? Dont you need enough juice to activate the relay for the NATO plug?

A different car…

 

[Mitchell300]

Appreciate the valuable feedback.

Seems the idea is dead on arrival. Very disappointing.

I checked the type of batteries I would want to kick start and they require 900A. So nowhere near with the NATO socket’s 350A.

Seems like very silly engineering from Ineos side. Why put so much emphasis on a feature that I assume less than 5% of customers will buy (rear winch). Also the misleading marketing of 500A seems shady at best.

I’m running ARB twin compressor from that socket now, and I guess that’s better than nothing. However feels like a waste to not utilize it more/better.

You’re idea is far from over !
Fuses don’t fail (blow) at their rated current. They are on a time / current curve and may actually fail under their rated value depending on duration of current, design and ambient conditions. The chart below is for the Littelfuse z case, 350A is the green line.
As you can see even by the manufactures rating the fuse will take 900A for 3 seconds.
In reality the high draw is likely to be for a shorter time. Even if longer it would be falling and the chart shows 10 seconds at >650A.
350A would be 1100 seconds. Full datasheet attached.
Do you’re own checks on this before proceeding.

 

[marcusnilsson]

thanks for adding granularity to the issue.

I’m not very well versed on electrical engineering. I will wait and see if someone with more knowledge comes up with a working solution and then piggy back. I guess clearly knowing the limitations of the system would be key (I.e. what type of batteries/engines can be jump started).

In the mean time i guess I can still use the “normal way” of connecting starter cables directly to the battery.

 

[Logsplitter]

thanks for adding granularity to the issue.

I’m not very well versed on electrical engineering. I will wait and see if someone with more knowledge comes up with a working solution and then piggy back. I guess clearly knowing the limitations of the system would be key (I.e. what type of batteries/engines can be jump started).

In the mean time i guess I can still use the “normal way” of connecting starter cables directly to the battery.

It’s safer and easier to connect jump start cables to the jump start post under the bonnet. That’s what it’s designed for and no risk of potential build up of gases as could happen in the battery box.

 

[marcusnilsson]

It’s safer and easier to connect jump start cables to the jump start post under the bonnet. That’s what it’s designed for and no risk of potential build up of gases as could happen in the battery box.

Perhaps that’s what I meant. I have the petrol version and there is one post to the side which is covered with a red + lid, and then more towards the engine which is a naked metal loop.

 

[landmannnn]

You could use the jump leads with a NATO plug to start the smaller equipment. For the tractors and other large equipment you would be able to use those jump leads to give a quick charge (5 minutes or so) which would allow the vehicle to start itself.
Those 1500 amp 10 metre cables you linked to are huge! They would weigh over 40kg.


The other consideration as mentioned is that the vehicle recovery industry has mostly moved away from jump start integral cabling and gone to jump boxes. It's much kinder to the host vehicle and in practice cheaper.

 

[Zimm]

It’s a time delay fuse and the amp draw is dictated by the starter motor which is obviously lower than the cca of the batteries installed. It’s a fuse. Fuses are reliable. Try it, and if it fails, replace the fuse, and don’t do it again. Pretty simple. As to what’s best? I carry a noco box and cables for the post. The nato plug seems like option three. As for cables, only as long as you need, no longer, and as thick as you can find.