Lower switch panel removal

[SoundEngineer]

Does anyone have experience removing the lower switch panel? I want to install some accessories to the top-left and top-right panel 'squares', which are blank. I had hoped each was a separate little metal square that I could remove by unscrewing the 4 torx screws, but the entire lower panel is a single sheet of metal. If I go ahead and undo the dozens of torx screws, what else do I have to do to free up the panel? Presumably I have to prise off the rotary knobs for Audio Volume, Air Conditioning (fan, zone, etc.)?

Any guidance or tips from users who have done this previously would be welcomed.

Thanks!

 

[CRH]

Does anyone have experience removing the lower switch panel? I want to install some accessories to the top-left and top-right panel 'squares', which are blank. I had hoped each was a separate little metal square that I could remove by unscrewing the 4 torx screws, but the entire lower panel is a single sheet of metal. If I go ahead and undo the dozens of torx screws, what else do I have to do to free up the panel? Presumably I have to prise off the rotary knobs for Audio Volume, Air Conditioning (fan, zone, etc.)?

Any guidance or tips from users who have done this previously would be welcomed.

Thanks!

There are a number of threads on here with pictures, it is 1 complete plastic unit that you remove rather than individual parts as it looks. They the modifications threads or what did you do with your Grenadier today thread. Sorry I can't be more helpful

 

[IslandFalconer]

You can’t install anything from the back, there’s a printed circuit sandwiched in the panel.

 

[Loc Nar]

Does anyone have experience removing the lower switch panel? I want to install some accessories to the top-left and top-right panel 'squares', which are blank. I had hoped each was a separate little metal square that I could remove by unscrewing the 4 torx screws, but the entire lower panel is a single sheet of metal. If I go ahead and undo the dozens of torx screws, what else do I have to do to free up the panel? Presumably I have to prise off the rotary knobs for Audio Volume, Air Conditioning (fan, zone, etc.)?

Any guidance or tips from users who have done this previously would be welcomed.

Thanks!

I agree with the limitations noted above, but check out the Ram mounts I added to those spots here. That may be helpful.

 

[CrazyOldMan]

Does anyone have experience removing the lower switch panel? I want to install some accessories to the top-left and top-right panel 'squares', which are blank. I had hoped each was a separate little metal square that I could remove by unscrewing the 4 torx screws, but the entire lower panel is a single sheet of metal. If I go ahead and undo the dozens of torx screws, what else do I have to do to free up the panel? Presumably I have to prise off the rotary knobs for Audio Volume, Air Conditioning (fan, zone, etc.)?

Any guidance or tips from users who have done this previously would be welcomed.

Thanks!

Have you looked at these options? I have the Owl accessory rail with the bulletpoint system, but the Agile system fits the top right and left spots, as you propose.

INEOS Grenadier Dash Ball Mount » Agile Offroad

Dash Ball Mount for INEOS Grenadier by Agile Offroad. Mount a variety of devices and a keep a factory Grenadier interior dash look.

agileoffroad.com

INEOS Grenadier Accessory Mounting Rail

We wanted to complement the Grenadier's offroad-centric interior with a clean, factory-looking Accessory Rail. One of the only major items lacking in the cockpit is a solid, high-quality accessory mount for phones, maps, iPads, Garmins, etc. The Owl Accessory Rail is machined from billet...

owlvans.com

 

[IslandFalconer]

Have you looked at these options? I have the Owl accessory rail with the bulletpoint system, but the Agile system fits the top right and left spots, as you propose.

INEOS Grenadier Dash Ball Mount » Agile Offroad

Dash Ball Mount for INEOS Grenadier by Agile Offroad. Mount a variety of devices and a keep a factory Grenadier interior dash look.

agileoffroad.com

INEOS Grenadier Accessory Mounting Rail

We wanted to complement the Grenadier's offroad-centric interior with a clean, factory-looking Accessory Rail. One of the only major items lacking in the cockpit is a solid, high-quality accessory mount for phones, maps, iPads, Garmins, etc. The Owl Accessory Rail is machined from billet...

owlvans.com

I have the Owl Rail as well, excellent piece of kit.

 

[SoundEngineer]

Thanks everyone for all the help - greatly appreciated. It turns out that the hole geometry of the smaller (2 screw hole) RAM mounts perfectly aligns with the holes in the switch panels. So changing using some 20mm machine screws, they fitted perfectly - no panel removal or drilling. These mounts are for (a) iphone 15 Quadlock magnetic charger; (b) iPad running Hema maps; (c) GME CB microphone holder.... or whatever I choose as, with RAM mounts, I can swap stuff around depending on the nature of the trip. See pics.

One more thing of interest... my brand new Grenadier Trialmaster (purchased in Australia in March 2025) does NOT have the 3-wire, 40A compressor wires as documented everywhere on this forum. Instead, it has 4 wires... these have been confirmed by INEOS Australia as being for an 240Vac inverter. INEOS confirmed that the latest batch of Grenadiers imported into Australia are (a) the newer model; (b) the "inverter ready" configuration - apparently they can be ordered with a 400W or a 2kW inverter with mains power outlets at various places in the vehicle. Regarding the 4 wires: there's a larger (40A?) yellow/green wire with 13.8V; a thin black ground wire (not large enough for the return current path from an inverter or my lithium charger); two purple and maroon signalling wires (one is LIN bus). See pics below, and diagrams from the official, latest, INEOS service/electrical manual.

My objective was to attach a Lithium battery DC-DC converter (I chose the CTEK D250SE - available same-day from Amazon and surprisingly affordable); to wire this in I used the "Inverter" constant 13.8V wire, but for ground I bolted it to the nearest chassis ground, and grabbed the "Ignition" signal to turn on/off the D250SE using a Mini-Blade fuse splitter/T-piece from Narda (bought at Repco). There's a bank of mini-blade fuses in the fuse box under the rear passenger seat that are all (except one) "ignition on" signals. So in the end it was a very simple process to install the extra lithium "third batteries" and get the requisite signals/wires for the CTEK D250SE, and install the chassis-mount Anderson connectors for my fridge, portable tyre compressors etc.. See pics.

The four wires taped beneath the RHS rear passenger seat (in place of the 40A compressor wires) are shown below, eminating from C138. From top to bottom on the LHS...
1) Con. Fo31*2 12V (13.8V) high current wire. I used this for my Lithium battery charger.
2) Con. C074*LE10
3) Con. C074*LF18 (LIN bus)
4) CI.31 (thin Gnd wire).

 

[Stu_Barnes]

Thanks everyone for all the help - greatly appreciated. It turns out that the hole geometry of the smaller (2 screw hole) RAM mounts perfectly aligns with the holes in the switch panels. So changing using some 20mm machine screws, they fitted perfectly - no panel removal or drilling. These mounts are for (a) iphone 15 Quadlock magnetic charger; (b) iPad running Hema maps; (c) GME CB microphone holder.... or whatever I choose as, with RAM mounts, I can swap stuff around depending on the nature of the trip. See pics.

View attachment 7890603
View attachment 7890604
View attachment 7890605

Great install @SoundEngineer. Just be mindful of the loading on the control panel with using 2 screws for the ram mounts. The outer ones you used just screw through to the panel itself and not the supporting bracket behind. If you take out one of the inner screws next to your mounts you’ll see it’s much longer. The screws on the periphery are short and the one on the bottom right for this mount are the ones which attach to the underlying bracketry.

 

[TheDocAUS]

Thanks everyone for all the help - greatly appreciated. It turns out that the hole geometry of the smaller (2 screw hole) RAM mounts perfectly aligns with the holes in the switch panels. So changing using some 20mm machine screws, they fitted perfectly - no panel removal or drilling. These mounts are for (a) iphone 15 Quadlock magnetic charger; (b) iPad running Hema maps; (c) GME CB microphone holder.... or whatever I choose as, with RAM mounts, I can swap stuff around depending on the nature of the trip. See pics.

View attachment 7890603
View attachment 7890604
View attachment 7890605
One more thing of interest... my brand new Grenadier Trialmaster (purchased in Australia in March 2025) does NOT have the 3-wire, 40A compressor wires as documented everywhere on this forum. Instead, it has 4 wires... these have been confirmed by INEOS Australia as being for an 240Vac inverter. INEOS confirmed that the latest batch of Grenadiers imported into Australia are (a) the newer model; (b) the "inverter ready" configuration - apparently they can be ordered with a 400W or a 2kW inverter with mains power outlets at various places in the vehicle. Regarding the 4 wires: there's a larger (40A?) yellow/green wire with 13.8V; a thin black ground wire (not large enough for the return current path from an inverter or my lithium charger); two purple and maroon signalling wires (one is LIN bus). See pics below, and diagrams from the official, latest, INEOS service/electrical manual.

My objective was to attach a Lithium battery DC-DC converter (I chose the CTEK D250SE - available same-day from Amazon and surprisingly affordable); to wire this in I used the "Inverter" constant 13.8V wire, but for ground I bolted it to the nearest chassis ground, and grabbed the "Ignition" signal to turn on/off the D250SE using a Mini-Blade fuse splitter/T-piece from Narda (bought at Repco). There's a bank of mini-blade fuses in the fuse box under the rear passenger seat that are all (except one) "ignition on" signals. So in the end it was a very simple process to install the extra lithium "third batteries" and get the requisite signals/wires for the CTEK D250SE, and install the chassis-mount Anderson connectors for my fridge, portable tyre compressors etc.. See pics.

View attachment 7890606
View attachment 7890607
View attachment 7890608
View attachment 7890609

The four wires taped beneath the RHS rear passenger seat (in place of the 40A compressor wires) are shown below, eminating from C138. From top to bottom on the LHS...
1) Con. Fo31*2 12V (13.8V) high current wire. I used this for my Lithium battery charger.
2) Con. C074*LE10
3) Con. C074*LF18 (LIN bus)
4) CI.31 (thin Gnd wire).

View attachment 7890610

Thanks for the 4 wire ends update for AU models.

 

[nzmark]

Great install @SoundEngineer. Just be mindful of the loading on the control panel with using 2 screws for the ram mounts. The outer ones you used just screw through to the panel itself and not the supporting bracket behind. If you take out one of the inner screws next to your mounts you’ll see it’s much longer. The screws on the periphery are short and the one on the bottom right for this mount are the ones which attach to the underlying bracketry.

Hi @Stu_Barnes . Can you advise where you got your bracket from, please? (https://www.theineosforum.com/attachments/img_0662-jpeg.7890625/)

 

[DenisM]

@SoundEngineer thank you for the clear explanation...much appreciated

What intrigued me was your comment
"See pics below, and diagrams from the official, latest, INEOS service/electrical manual."
Was your access to the Ineos manual via the kindness of the local Ineos dealer or is it available elsewhere?

 

[BenTN]

... It turns out that the hole geometry of the smaller (2 screw hole) RAM mounts perfectly aligns with the holes in the switch panels. So changing using some 20mm machine screws, they fitted perfectly...

I'm going to nerd out for just a moment here. The RAM 2-hole mount uses an industry standard pattern called the AMPS pattern. It's actually based on an old four hole pattern that was 30 mm by 38 mm. The diagonal of that pattern is 48.4 mm, which is now used as a common 2-hole pattern.

Turns out that the Grenadier console pattern is actually 47.5 mm center-to-center across the square. However, you got lucky and it is close enough to work.

I doubt this similarity was intentional on the part of INEOS/Magna.

 

[TheDocAUS]

Hi @Stu_Barnes . Can you advise where you got your bracket from, please? (https://www.theineosforum.com/attachments/img_0662-jpeg.7890625/)

Grenadier Works Store: https://grenadierworks.com/products/console-device-mounting-bracket