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Let's get some perspective: Is your Grenadier AC working as it should?

G-Man

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Who else's AC is batsh1t crazy and randomly blows hot air one day and cold the next on the exact same setting? I don't think the AC system got the attention it deserved during the 1.2 million miles of road testing, that's for sure. I love my new truck but it's the one thing that drives me nuts on pretty much a daily basis as I fiddle away at the controls and I'm surprised Ineos haven't found a fix for it yet. I gather it's down to sticky solenoid valves or such like and is probably an expensive warranty concern for them.

It would be useful to set up a poll on this forum and get an idea of what percentage and numbers of owners here have flaky AC. This forum must represent a decent amount of the Grenadier owner population, perhaps it would help sharpen Ineos' perspective on the issue if it popped up on every Google search relating to Grenadier AC issues. I don't have the ability to raise a forum poll but maybe @Stu_Barnes would consider it a worthy exercise
 

CRH

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Ok new problem with AC fans and operation. Today, first time I noticed this but when I switch from (Front only) to (Front + Legs) - I also get cold air blowing on to windscreen causing condensation external in QLDs hot and humid weather... turn it back to FRONT vent only and it works as intended. Anyone else get this occurrence?
Mine was bled a number of times, topped up before this was fixed. It still takes time to settle down but it does need to be bled run, bled, etc refilled and then working
 
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G-Man

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My truck went in to my local service centre for a second time at the start of the month as it was still blowing cold air into the footwell on a heat setting and I had the standard 'hair dryer heat' output from the vents in the rear passenger footwell. They told me they 'double vacuum filled' the system this time round and so far (touch wood) it seems to be behaving a lot better. They did comment that the AC exchanger sits very high in the engine bay and so will be prone to air locks unless the system is completely purged.

I doubt very much that IA don't know how to fix these issues if a small independent garage can have a good grasp on the situation. It strikes me you just need to find a decent service centre who have the necessary competency in servicing AC systems and the professionalism to take your concerns seriously. I'd imagine the problems would persist when your IA approved service centre doesn't have a good vehicle AC technician and chooses to fob you off instead.
 
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Tazzieman

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Mine needed to be bled a number of time, ac re-gassed and now it near enough works, you just need to give it some time to think what it wants to do
How many social workers does it take to change a light bulb?
Only one, but it's really got to want to change.
😄
 
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CRH

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I can confirm
My heating and air-conditioning were useless. All the problems everyone has. Air-conditioning re gassed and working fine. Heating bled a number of times and topped up. After long driving, 350miles, it is now working as it should and I am happy. Just need the leaking safari roof doing for 3rd time.
 
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Dual Grenny Guy

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If I was on the fence about buying one of these and read this thread, I most likely may have never bought my first one. Then I would never of had the joy of owning my favorite vehicles off all time, and coming from a huge car guy that does own several now and has owned many cars over the years, that says a lot! It’s crazy that I own two and have none of these problems. Only one has the safari windows and it has now been thru one cat 2 hurricane (Francine), and two very heavy tropical storms/heavy winds/flooding/etc with zero leaks and was left outside during all those events (had to keep the classics and one convertible that I know would leak inside the garage). Also both A/C’s are ran daily (alternate driving them) and I actually try to create A/C issues by trying all the different modes/speeds, on/off, sit for long time running them, etc and they both still blow cold all the time. So much so that I rarely go pass speed #1, it really is cold.

The only thing I can figure out is that since I bought both mine in May of this year, that the known issues had been worked out somehow as I don’t think I was lucky enough to get two trouble free Grenadiers. Probably just jinxed myself, but I am being honest. I am most likely going to buy a Quartermaster when they finally hit the USA. If I didn’t trust or love these things no way I would have 2 and consider a 3rd. I hate to hear all of you went thru those issues and sounds like some still have an issue. Guess the main reason for this post is to let any possible future buyers on the fence, like I once was, know that it seems like the newer models (also have 2 buddies in different states that have 1 & 2 of their own with exactly the same experience as mine) may have fixed most of the earlier issues. This is not a post to argue with anyone about your issues, I am just stating my experiences with two purchases and my buddies with 3 total purchases on their end. So 5 Grenadiers bought after May 2024 with the only thing that can be said is an issue are the sounds and quirks with the ADAS that hopefully a new software update will eliminate that.

I will ask anyone reading this, if you purchased a Grenadier after May 2024 and have had issues please post on that with details. To all Grenadier owners issues or not, I am sure we can all agree how much of a pleasure it is to drive these bad boys!!!

IMG_1527.jpeg
 
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Braydo

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I’ve had my system bled twice and coolant added after they said they found a leaking hose. They put in a new hose filled the system again and bled any air out. The drive home from the dealer it failed again, warm air up front and scalding hot in the back. When I got home I let it sit for 20 minutes and it was fine again. It happens probably once a week if I drive it frequently. I think I hear a baffle or vent slam closed or open just prior to it failing, not sure if that could be part of the problem
I had this issue for a couple of months from new. Then I changed my procedure and I've not had the problem repeat. I hesitate to post my 'fix' as it feels like voodoo, but this has worked flawlessly for me:

  1. I'm generally on Auto. I leave the fan setting at 0, and just operate the temp dial as desired.
  2. Before engine shutdown, press Auto which switches off the HVAC system (because fan is already set to 0) and wait a moment to ensure it is fully off. Then shutdown the engine.
  3. When starting engine, switch accessories on (but not engine start) and wait well past telltale lights out. Listen carefully and you'll usually hear some actuators working away behind the dash. Wait until all fall silent. Then start the engine.

If you are not on Auto with fan 0, then turn the fan to 0 before switching off the vehicle, but start up in the same way (with fan still at 0 until after engine start).

My only theory is that the actuators behind the dash are related to HVAC system, and catching them mid cycle with a start up somehow screws up the process. It maybe that it's not necessary to switch off the HVAC, only wait before startup, but I've not been game to try this for fear of messing with the juju.

But like I said - voodoo. Your mileage may vary.
 
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MTNDOG

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If I was on the fence about buying one of these and read this thread, I most likely may have never bought my first one. Then I would never of had the joy of owning my favorite vehicles off all time, and coming from a huge car guy that does own several now and has owned many cars over the years, that says a lot! It’s crazy that I own two and have none of these problems. Only one has the safari windows and it has now been thru one cat 2 hurricane (Francine), and two very heavy tropical storms/heavy winds/flooding/etc with zero leaks and was left outside during all those events (had to keep the classics and one convertible that I know would leak inside the garage). Also both A/C’s are ran daily (alternate driving them) and I actually try to create A/C issues by trying all the different modes/speeds, on/off, sit for long time running them, etc and they both still blow cold all the time. So much so that I rarely go pass speed #1, it really is cold.

The only thing I can figure out is that since I bought both mine in May of this year, that the known issues had been worked out somehow as I don’t think I was lucky enough to get two trouble free Grenadiers. Probably just jinxed myself, but I am being honest. I am most likely going to buy a Quartermaster when they finally hit the USA. If I didn’t trust or love these things no way I would have 2 and consider a 3rd. I hate to hear all of you went thru those issues and sounds like some still have an issue. Guess the main reason for this post is to let any possible future buyers on the fence, like I once was, know that it seems like the newer models (also have 2 buddies in different states that have 1 & 2 of their own with exactly the same experience as mine) may have fixed most of the earlier issues. This is not a post to argue with anyone about your issues, I am just stating my experiences with two purchases and my buddies with 3 total purchases on their end. So 5 Grenadiers bought after May 2024 with the only thing that can be said is an issue are the sounds and quirks with the ADAS that hopefully a new software update will eliminate that.

I will ask anyone reading this, if you purchased a Grenadier after May 2024 and have had issues please post on that with details. To all Grenadier owners issues or not, I am sure we can all agree how much of a pleasure it is to drive these bad boys!!!

View attachment 7877214
Interested to know the build dates on yours?
 
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Clark Kent

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I had this issue for a couple of months from new. Then I changed my procedure and I've not had the problem repeat. I hesitate to post my 'fix' as it feels like voodoo, but this has worked flawlessly for me:

  1. I'm generally on Auto. I leave the fan setting at 0, and just operate the temp dial as desired.
  2. Before engine shutdown, press Auto which switches off the HVAC system (because fan is already set to 0) and wait a moment to ensure it is fully off. Then shutdown the engine.
  3. When starting engine, switch accessories on (but not engine start) and wait well past telltale lights out. Listen carefully and you'll usually hear some actuators working away behind the dash. Wait until all fall silent. Then start the engine.

If you are not on Auto with fan 0, then turn the fan to 0 before switching off the vehicle, but start up in the same way (with fan still at 0 until after engine start).

My only theory is that the actuators behind the dash are related to HVAC system, and catching them mid cycle with a start up somehow screws up the process. It maybe that it's not necessary to switch off the HVAC, only wait before startup, but I've not been game to try this for fear of messing with the juju.

But like I said - voodoo. Your mileage may vary.

So basically this.
.
1731479246692.png
 
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Krabby

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Now that the mornings are getting chilly (it was ~36F this morn) it's quite apparent that my heat flat out sucks. If I use manual - set temp all the way to warm and try every fan speed - all I get is cool air. When I try auto I can hear what sounds like vents or something opening and closing and then I get mildly warm air. Thereafter, if I go back to manual, the air temp is warmer but by no means hot; it also gives three different temps out of the three "face" vents I can reach from the driver's seat. It blows my mind that the heat in my Fit is a million times better/more effective. The heat in my 1992 80 Series LC was tremendous, as it was in just about every other vehicle I've driven (bar my IIa LR). I think, I hope, I pray that all of this can be rectified with a software update and that it arrives sooner than later. Grrr. Or should I say burrr?
 
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CRH

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Now that the mornings are getting chilly (it was ~36F this morn) it's quite apparent that my heat flat out sucks. If I use manual - set temp all the way to warm and try every fan speed - all I get is cool air. When I try auto I can hear what sounds like vents or something opening and closing and then I get mildly warm air. Thereafter, if I go back to manual, the air temp is warmer but by no means hot; it also gives three different temps out of the three "face" vents I can reach from the driver's seat. It blows my mind that the heat in my Fit is a million times better/more effective. The heat in my 1992 80 Series LC was tremendous, as it was in just about every other vehicle I've driven (bar my IIa LR). I think, I hope, I pray that all of this can be rectified with a software update and that it arrives sooner than later. Grrr. Or should I say burrr?
I would recommend having your system bled a few times and read the turning on and off procedures that have been suggested. Mine has been working well since, but then yesterday was cool. I hadn't followed procedure. Stopped car for a quick break, followed procedure before and after starting and hot air again all round.
 
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Tom109

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@Krabby - use those nuclear seat heaters!

My heat has always been good. When it’s cold I never turn the fan on until the engine reaches operating temp. For me, the switching between vents is what delivers the freezing cold blast. I would suggest you check your coolant reservoir levels when cold, and if no improvements hit the dealer.
 
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Dual Grenny Guy

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My build date matches the red one and although not perfect, my HVAC seems to do alright. I still notice the ambient air temperature is slow to change/catch-up to the true outside temperature, but other than that, no complaints.
I actually purchased the blue one first. So I was thinking since the red/maroon one was an earlier build date, that they fixed any known issues on it. Who knows. Just glad/lucky I got 2 trouble free beasts!! 👍🙌
 
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Tom109

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Mine was completed on 9/28/2023. I know this because the dealer never reset the service reminder so my Grenadier told me its birthday. ;)
 
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Krabby

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I discovered something this morning - once I was up to temp I set the temp dial to max, fan off, and pressed the auto button. The fan came on but so did the AC snowflake light (which I believe is normal) - but, when I depressed the AC button to turn it off, I heard a flap closing and the same "suction" sound I noticed the other morning. I tried this several times and it happened each time, so does the AC button somehow come into play with the HVAC heat disappointment?
 
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CRH

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I discovered something this morning - once I was up to temp I set the temp dial to max, fan off, and pressed the auto button. The fan came on but so did the AC snowflake light (which I believe is normal) - but, when I depressed the AC button to turn it off, I heard a flap closing and the same "suction" sound I noticed the other morning. I tried this several times and it happened each time, so does the AC button somehow come into play with the HVAC heat disappointment?
I hear lots of noises as it decides what to do. We all wanted an old technology vehicle, we just never specified from what era, so we got an 80's sinclair zx81 to run the tech.
I have on occasion had a loud vibrating flap noise when on full heat auto. I have a video but it's too large to upload and I have no idea how you all add the videos you do.
 
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Krabby

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I hear lots of noises as it decides what to do. We all wanted an old technology vehicle, we just never specified from what era, so we got an 80's sinclair zx81 to run the tech.
I have on occasion had a loud vibrating flap noise when on full heat auto. I have a video but it's too large to upload and I have no idea how you all add the videos you do.
It certainly has a mind of its own. I keep holding on to hope that it can be fixed via software because it is controlled by software. They totally missed the boat by not going old school on the HVAC; my only guess is they thought it would not have been posh enough or something. Mind you the truck doesn't have a visor mirror so it fails the upscale test anyway.
 
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CRH

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It certainly has a mind of its own. I keep holding on to hope that it can be fixed via software because it is controlled by software. They totally missed the boat by not going old school on the HVAC; my only guess is they thought it would not have been posh enough or something. Mind you the truck doesn't have a visor mirror so it fails the upscale test anyway.
I wonder if there wasn't enough room with all the required tech to fit cables and rods to operate so they went with a modern system as they tend to work, until they don't.
We have rear engine 1967 fiat 850 spider that has a small heater radiator in front of the dash with a leaver to open a flap to let air in. Various other flaps to open depending on where you want the air. If it's really cold we have covers to cover the vents over the engine to get a bit more heat. I'm guessing we might all be complaining if we went to this extreme simplicity but you would have thought it would have been easy enough to get something that works?
I did read an article, not saying anything about heater problems, but did mention they had to use a different system to BMW due to space?
 
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