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Americas High Load Aux Switch and Power Take-Off

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Hello All,

I am not quite sure if I need (1) High Load Aux Switch Panel & Electrical Preparation and (2) Power Tkae-Off

For (2), to me, it could be replaced simply by bringing portable power station. For (1), I am wondering what would be actual usage for it. I know that it is for more lights, winch, etc, but I am not quite sure what are the actual benefits of having them. I hope to use the vehicle as a daily driver, camping, and towing RV, eventually.

I see that there are three AUX by default, EXT1, INT1, and INT2 with 10 A. Adding (1) brings EXT2 (25 A), EXT3 (25 A), EXT4 (500 A), and EXT5 (25 A).

I have no idea which ampere is good for which accessories. Can you give me more details in what situation it would be really useful?

Thanks!
 

globalgregors

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Hello All,

I am not quite sure if I need (1) High Load Aux Switch Panel & Electrical Preparation and (2) Power Tkae-Off

For (2), to me, it could be replaced simply by bringing portable power station. For (1), I am wondering what would be actual usage for it. I know that it is for more lights, winch, etc, but I am not quite sure what are the actual benefits of having them. I hope to use the vehicle as a daily driver, camping, and towing RV, eventually.

I see that there are three AUX by default, EXT1, INT1, and INT2 with 10 A. Adding (1) brings EXT2 (25 A), EXT3 (25 A), EXT4 (500 A), and EXT5 (25 A).

I have no idea which ampere is good for which accessories. Can you give me more details in what situation it would be really useful?

Thanks!
The higher load made available in (1) is required by the optional winch. The only other medium-high load device that I'm contemplating for my vehicle is a twin air compressor.

As a rule of thumb, it's really only items generating rotational torque or heat that draw higher current. Latter examples might be 12V accessory kettles, electric blankets, tools, travel buddies (eg small ovens).

12V fridges, LED lights - the things you are likely to use camping - typically have a low draw.

I gather (2) is a 120V inverter, which allows you to use AC devices, which might include battery chargers, laptops/devices, tools, Starlink etc.

400W is not a lot, but is sufficient say for a laptop (~50W), fan (~60W) or small TV (~120W). Not enough for, say, a Nespresso coffee machine (~1300W) or induction cooktop (~1500-2000W).
Basically you want to check the wattage, which will be shown on the device you are thinking of plugging in, and obviously add them up if you’ll be using anything in parallel.

REDARC provides a good overview of the situations that folks typically build for, noting that in your proposal the auxiliary battery you're thinking of is portable rather than built in:

 
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The higher load made available in (1) is required by the optional winch. The only other medium-high load device that I'm contemplating for my vehicle is a twin air compressor.

As a rule of thumb, it's really only items generating rotational torque or heat that draw higher current. Latter examples might be 12V accessory kettles, electric blankets, tools, travel buddies (eg small ovens).

12V fridges, LED lights - the things you are likely to use camping - typically have a low draw.

I gather (2) is a 120V inverter, which allows you to use AC devices, which might include battery chargers, laptops/devices, tools, Starlink etc.

400W is not a lot, but is sufficient say for a laptop (~50W), fan (~60W) or small TV (~120W). Not enough for, say, a Nespresso coffee machine (~1300W) or induction cooktop (~1500-2000W).
Basically you want to check the wattage, which will be shown on the device you are thinking of plugging in.

REDARC provides a good overview of the situations that folks typically build for, noting that in your proposal the auxiliary battery you're thinking of is portable rather than built in:

Thank you so much. Now I have some idea with it.

As I don’t think I will add winch, it may be okay for me to skip. Also, given the performance of power station has been improved a lot today, the inverter is probably not a must have one, although it will take another space..
 

globalgregors

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Thank you so much. Now I have some idea with it.

As I don’t think I will add winch, it may be okay for me to skip. Also, given the performance of power station has been improved a lot today, the inverter is probably not a must have one, although it will take another space..
You’re welcome. I think that’s sensible - if you are bringing a power station you will have an inverter in that.
 
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The appeal of the high load aux switch panel for me is factory installed wiring to useful places on the vehicle and a way to control it. I'd love just the wiring and then being able to use something like a MoTeC PDM but the switch panel fits into the cabin well.
 

beg

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Does anyone have the link to the correct deutch connectors i can't find it ?
 

beg

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Thanks thats the one .
 

Logsplitter

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FlyingTexan

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Is there anyway to change the high amperage switches to 110v for US applications? I’d like to be able to run a shop fan or portable lights from the outside.
 

DaveB

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Is there anyway to change the high amperage switches to 110v for US applications? I’d like to be able to run a shop fan or portable lights from the outside.
Your not going to run 110V ac through your roof consol, next to 12VDC wiring
That would be very dangerous
Just run a second outlet off your inverter with a changeover switch
 

Tomdoc

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Is there anyway to change the high amperage switches to 110v for US applications? I’d like to be able to run a shop fan or portable lights from the outside.
This is not AC it is DC like all vehicles - you need an inverter to change to AC current then go from there.
 
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