Hi load auxiliary plugs don’t work

[Scott-Tx]

Hi load auxiliary ports have no power. Is there a fuse that could be blown? I tested all the outside auxiliary ports with multimeter. The ground is good but there is no power. I flipped all the interior switches on the power switch etc, any ideas?

 

[flynnsk]

There are two switches that control the Roof/rail outlets. A singe 25 for the driver front and a 25 shared across the remaining rail outlets. Check Pages 33 and 193 of US Manual, otherwise in the Resources look for Rok_Dr's Manual Supplement.
If you suspect is a Fuse, these would be under the rear seat. Check your glove box for updated Fuse card or again refer to Rok_Dr's Manual Supplement.

 

[Scott-Tx]

There are two switches that control the Roof/rail outlets. A singe 25 for the driver front and a 25 shared across the remaining rail outlets. Check Pages 33 and 193 of US Manual, otherwise in the Resources look for Rok_Dr's Manual Supplement.
If you suspect is a Fuse, these would be under the rear seat. Check your glove box for updated Fuse card or again refer to Rok_Dr's Manual Supplement.

I used both of these switches they both light up but as I stated there is no power to the outside outlets tested with a multimeter. I have no updated fuse card and cannot find any fuse that runs these in manual. I did check every fuse under the seat and all of them were good

 

[DaveB]

I used both of these switches they both light up but as I stated there is no power to the outside outlets tested with a multimeter. I have no updated fuse card and cannot find any fuse that runs these in manual. I did check every fuse under the seat and all of them were good

What do you mean you "used" both of these switches???
Also the vehicle has to be turned on or the PWR switch turned on.
Be careful that the PWR switch allows all outlets to be powered with the vehicle off and can lead to a flat battery.

 

[Scott-Tx]

What do you mean you "used" both of these switches???
Also the vehicle has to be turned on or the PWR switch turned on.
Be careful that the PWR switch allows all outlets to be powered with the vehicle off and can lead to a flat battery.

The vehicle was on and the power button was turned on, I turned on all exterior switches none of the have power but the switches themselves are lit up

 

[DaveB]

The vehicle was on and the power button was turned on, I turned on all exterior switches none of the have power but the switches themselves are lit up

Sorry, looks like a dealer fix

 

[Rok_Dr]

There are two switches that control the Roof/rail outlets. A singe 25 for the driver front and a 25 shared across the remaining rail outlets. Check Pages 33 and 193 of US Manual, otherwise in the Resources look for Rok_Dr's Manual Supplement.
If you suspect is a Fuse, these would be under the rear seat. Check your glove box for updated Fuse card or again refer to Rok_Dr's Manual Supplement.

There is a separate fuse box for the High load Aux panel switches that is not documented in the owners manuals. My manual supplement shows the location and fuse relay layout. click on the link in the signature line to go to the post with the download link . If you have the 5 seat Wagon then you will have to remove a few plastic trim pieces to expose the fuse box. If you don't have the time then I'd agree with @DaveB re a trip back to the dealer (should they be nearby)

Cheers
Steve

 

[Psignore00]

Did you remove the dummy plugs before testing the roof outlets with the multimeter? There are plugs/caps on the end to protect the connector

 

[TheDocAUS]

Hi load auxiliary ports have no power. Is there a fuse that could be blown? I tested all the outside auxiliary ports with multimeter. The ground is good but there is no power. I flipped all the interior switches on the power switch etc, any ideas?

Car needs to be running, and the relevant switch turned on also.

OR

If car is turned off, the PWR switch must be on and the relevant switch turned on also.

If you have done that, check for a blown fuse. Consult Rok Dr Guide.

 

[Scott-Tx]

Thank you for all the replies

 

[GN4HIR]

Scott, Where are you in Texas.

 

[Scott-Tx]

Bedford in DFW area

 

[LWA55DAL]

Adding a little to what others have said:

The Highload Aux switches only work with the 500Amp switch flipped with the vehicle off OR with the vehicle running.

There are inserts in all of the plugs along the roofline. These have to be removed to expose the contacts for the plug and to test for output. They also need to be removed to plug anything in. Testing these with a volt meter is tricky as you need to make sure and not cross the outputs or you blow a fuse.

Assuming you have done all of this and you still don’t have any power - you might want to test the NATO plug to make sure the auxiliary relay is working. You should hear if click when you throw the 500amp and the vehicle is not running. This should tell you if you have aux power at all.

If you have power to the NATO then you likely have a blown fuse on the circuit.

If you don’t have power at the NATO then you have a bigger issue.

I’d also check the voltage on the aux battery just to make sure it is not a battery issue.

 

[LWA55DAL]

Also - 3 of the 4 roof plugs are on the same circuit. The one that is individual is on the passenger front. If you have power to the front and not the back or vice versa - it’s certainly a fuse.

 

[Rok_Dr]

Adding a little to what others have said:

The Highload Aux switches only work with the 500Amp switch flipped with the vehicle off OR with the vehicle running.

There are inserts in all of the plugs along the roofline. These have to be removed to expose the contacts for the plug and to test for output. They also need to be removed to plug anything in. Testing these with a volt meter is tricky as you need to make sure and not cross the outputs or you blow a fuse.

Assuming you have done all of this and you still don’t have any power - you might want to test the NATO plug to make sure the auxiliary relay is working. You should hear if click when you throw the 500amp and the vehicle is not running. This should tell you if you have aux power at all.

If you have power to the NATO then you likely have a blown fuse on the circuit.

If you don’t have power at the NATO then you have a bigger issue.

I’d also check the voltage on the aux battery just to make sure it is not a battery issue.

Interesting. My Highload Aux switches (Ext2, 3 & 5) work independently of the 500 amp switch (Ext4). Also the 500 amp switch only works when the vehicle is running and the transmission is in D, N or R and traveling <80kph. Maybe NAS vehicles are wired differently??

Cheers
Steve

 

[LWA55DAL]

Interesting. My Highload Aux switches (Ext2, 3 & 5) work independently of the 500 amp switch (Ext4). Also the 500 amp switch only works when the vehicle is running and the transmission is in D, N or R and traveling <80kph. Maybe NAS vehicles are wired differently??

Cheers
Steve

The “high load” Aux switches should only work with the vehicle running OR the 500 Amp switch on.

Now - I agree that the 500amp switch only works in D, N, & R in terms of the “relay” for the NATO plug when the engine is running, but the switch does activate the Aux switches when in P and without the engine running. I routinely run the exterior roof area lights without the engine on, but to do so I have to flip the 500 amp switch to turn on AUX battery power. In theory - this is why there is an isolator between the primary engine battery and the AUX battery. When you flip the 500 Amp switch is draws from the Aix battery and will not drain the engine battery since the engine is not running.

You do bring up a good question - will the NATO work without the engine running in D, N and R. I don’t expect it will work in P as it was designed not to so as to not use the winch in P.

 

[GN4HIR]

Bedford in DFW area

Was hopeful you were in Houston and we could get together to sort it out.

 

[Rok_Dr]

The “high load” Aux switches should only work with the vehicle running OR the 500 Amp switch on.

Now - I agree that the 500amp switch only works in D, N, & R in terms of the “relay” for the NATO plug when the engine is running, but the switch does activate the Aux switches when in P and without the engine running. I routinely run the exterior roof area lights without the engine on, but to do so I have to flip the 500 amp switch to turn on AUX battery power. In theory - this is why there is an isolator between the primary engine battery and the AUX battery. When you flip the 500 Amp switch is draws from the Aix battery and will not drain the engine battery since the engine is not running.

You do bring up a good question - will the NATO work without the engine running in D, N and R. I don’t expect it will work in P as it was designed not to so as to not use the winch in P.

When the car is turned off, I just use the overhead power switch to turn on the roof outlets and run my LED lights not the 500 amp switch.

Also all loads in the Ineos draw from the starter battery. The auxiliary battery is only used for emergency starting through the smartpass isolator and has no circuits connected to it. This is not the normal setup most of us are used to and why Ineos have removed the consumer connection post on the smartpass.

Cheers Steve