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Henry's Blog

Rok_Dr

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After just over 2 months ownership and 3500km its time to start a blog for Henry my Grenadier. The plan is this thread will capture my impressions, issues, mods and travels. I won't be going overboard with the mods and I’ll generally be sticking to easily fitted accessories and keep the weight down.

Why is he called Henry? Except for the GTV6 all my cars have had names with the 4wds following a theme of British Kings. Last year I named the Cub Longreach camper trailer “Banjo” after the Australian bush poet Banjo Patterson, so it was a short jump to naming the Grenadier “Henry” after Henry Lawson another Australian poet and compatriot of Banjo Patterson, while keeping with the existing British king naming theme..

My first impressions.

Overall they are positive, but there’s been lot of muscle memory retraining and a reasonable technology learning curve, coming from an early 2000’s TD5 Discovery 2.

The Good:
  • The car is solid and well built.
  • The ride is excellent and for its size and weight it handles really well.
  • Fuel economy currently is in the low 12l/100km range, which includes some towing. Getting mid 15l/100km when towing my camper trailer (approx. 1600kg). It also appears to be getting better as the engine loosens up.
  • The car tows really well and after the Discovery the extra power is most welcome.
  • The optional front tow hitch makes moving my camper trailer up my angled drive so damm easy.
  • He handles the dunes and soft beach sand very well in H4 with the centre diff locked and tyres at 18psi. Haven't had the need to try the front and rear diff locks yet.
  • Seats are really comfortable.
  • Radio is loud enough for me and I’m enjoying having Apple CarPlay. So far I’ve had only a couple of freezing issues with either CarPlay, dash compass or GPS. There are some pairing issues but that is due to my 4 year old iPhone. DAB reception is equivalent to the Kenwood I had in the Discovery
  • Though I’ve only had a short test I reckon I’m going to love the breadcrumb trail capture functionality.
  • Transfer case shifting effort is on par with my old Discovery.
  • Air-conditioning is positively frigid.
  • I was rather surprised to find that the Ineos seat covers fitted reasonably well and don’t slip off. Not perfect but perhaps Ineos have made some changes to the first batch.
  • Once I worked out the undocumented trip meter features I’ve grown to like the daily “from start” setting. I can use this to get the stats for the day’s travel while still having the traditional trip meter, which I display next to the odo and reset every time I refuel.
The Neutral and SoSo
  • The driving position is a work in progress to find the most comfortable position. I’m used to a low seating position with outstretched legs, so the upright position and left footrest are taking a bit of getting used to. That said on a long trip last week the position hasn’t been uncomfortable, but I did notice having to move my left leg around more often than normal.
  • The limited adjustment range for the driver’s door mirror is also an issue. Set fully out I’m still seeing a little too much of the car side. The mirror really needs another indent in the base so I can move it out further.
  • Despite having the full software update, I’m still getting front PDC errors while stopped at lights or intersections. Most annoying, but hopefully will be fixed a future software update.
  • There is a metallic resonance/rattle/vibration at 1800-2200rpm at slow speeds and when the engine is under load. The dealer has had two cracks at fixing it with some improvement noted after the last visit, but another visit will be required to get on top of it.
  • Having spent the last week eating other vehicle's dust it would be great it the HVAC recirculate button would not switch off every time I switch the car off.
  • No commercial DAB stations. This is a fundamental limitation in Australia as I’m advised by Ineos Australia that the radio is only DAB not DAB+.
  • I’m going to have to neuter the security panic alarm button on the remote with a small O ring soon. I’ve pressed it accidentally a few too many times including going off in my pocket.
  • I’ve also accidentally switched on the rear wiper by knocking the end button a number of times. More muscle memory training is needed.
  • Mismatched paint work. The front fenders are a slightly whiter shade of white compared to the rest of the car. I’m not alone as all the Scottish White vehicles I’ve looked at suffer the same issue to varying degrees. Not impressed for a +$100k car. In discussions at present with Ineos Australia as to a possible resolution.

IMG_1692.jpg
 
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DenisM

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After just over 2 months ownership and 3500km its time to start a blog for Henry my Grenadier. The plan is this thread will capture my impressions, issues, mods and travels. I won't be going overboard with the mods and generally sticking to easily fitted accessories.

Why is he called Henry? Except for the GTV6 all my cars have had names with the 4wds following a theme of British Kings. Last year I named the Cub Longreach camper trailer “Banjo” after the Australian bush poet Banjo Patterson, so it was a short jump to naming the Grenadier “Henry” after Henry Lawson another Australian poet and compatriot of Banjo Patterson, while keeping with the existing British king naming theme..

My first impressions.

Overall they are positive, but there’s been lot of muscle memory retraining and a reasonable technology learning curve, coming from an early 2000’s TD5 Discovery 2.

The Good:
  • The car is solid and well built.
  • The ride is excellent and for its size and weight it handles really well.
  • Fuel economy currently is in the low 12l/100km range, which includes some towing. Getting mid 15l/100km when towing my camper trailer (approx. 1600kg). It also appears to be getting better as the engine loosens up.
  • The car tows really well and after the Discovery the extra power is most welcome.
  • The optional front tow hitch makes moving my camper trailer up my angled drive so damm easy.
  • He handles the dunes and soft beach sand very well in H4 with the centre diff locked and tyres at 18psi. Haven't had the need to try the front and rear diff locks yet.
  • Seats are really comfortable.
  • Radio is loud enough for me and I’m enjoying having Apple CarPlay. So far I’ve had only a couple of freezing issues with either CarPlay, dash compass or GPS. There are some pairing issues but that is due to my 4 year old iPhone. DAB reception is equivalent to the Kenwood I had in the Discovery
  • Though I’ve only had a short test I reckon I’m going to love the breadcrumb trail capture functionality.
  • Transfer case shifting effort is on par with my old Discovery.
  • Air-conditioning is positively frigid.
  • I was rather surprised to find that the Ineos seat covers fitted reasonably well and don’t slip off. Not perfect but perhaps Ineos have made some changes to the first batch.
  • Once I worked out the undocumented trip meter features I’ve grown to like the daily “from start” setting. I can use this to get the stats for the day’s travel while still having the traditional trip meter, which I display next to the odo and reset every time I refuel.
The Neutral and SoSo
  • The driving position is a work in progress to find the most comfortable position. I’m used to a low seating position with outstretched legs, so the upright position and left footrest are taking a bit of getting used to. That said on a long trip last week the position hasn’t been uncomfortable, but I did notice having to move my left leg around more often than normal.
  • The limited adjustment range for the driver’s door mirror is also an issue. Set fully out I’m still seeing a little too much of the car side. The mirror really needs another indent in the base so I can move it out further.
  • Despite having the full software update, I’m still getting front PDC errors while stopped at lights or intersections. Most annoying, but hopefully will be fixed a future software update.
  • There is a metallic resonance/rattle/vibration at 1800-2200rpm at slow speeds and when the engine is under load. The dealer has had two cracks at fixing it with some improvement noted after the last visit, but another visit will be required to get on top of it.
  • Having spent the last week eating other vehicle's dust it would be great it the HVAC recirculate button would not switch off every time I switch the car off.
  • No commercial DAB stations. This is a fundamental limitation in Australia as I’m advised by Ineos Australia that the radio is only DAB not DAB+.
  • I’m going to have to neuter the security panic alarm button on the remote with a small O ring soon. I’ve pressed it accidentally a few too many times including going off in my pocket.
  • I’ve also accidentally switched on the rear wiper by knocking the end button a number of times. More muscle memory training is needed.
  • Mismatched paint work. The front fenders are a slightly whiter shade of white compared to the rest of the car. I’m not alone as all the Scottish White vehicles I’ve looked at suffer the same issue to varying degrees. Not impressed for a +$100k car. In discussions at present with Ineos Australia as to a possible resolution.

@Rok_Dr ...I'm surprised re. the radio. I listen to DAB+ stations in Brisbane in the Grenadier.
I understood that DAB+ is the broadcast standard for Australia... and has been since its adoption here.
 

Tazzieman

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The white fender issue is a bit odd. Maybe another quirk of the brand. I'll double check my 'shroom in the morning.
 

Rok_Dr

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@Rok_Dr ...I'm surprised re. the radio. I listen to DAB+ stations in Brisbane in the Grenadier.
I understood that DAB+ is the broadcast standard for Australia... and has been since its adoption here.
Thanks @DenisM. Yes I'm also surprised. I couldn't tune in any commercial DAB stations in Perth and the Ineos Australia chap who was visiting the dealer when I got the software updated advised it was because the Grenadier radio is DAB only. That said all the marketing brochures say DAB+ while the owners manual is just DAB.

Cheers
Steve
 

Rok_Dr

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Refuelling Adaptor Nozzle

An essential accessory!!

The Grenadier fuel filler will only allow a small diesel nozzle to be inserted to fill the car. This is due to the misfuelling flap fitted in the inlet. While I can understand the need to stop misfuelling mistakes, this means you can’t easily fill up using a jerry can or at truck bowsers. A fundamental limitation for remote Australia.

I purchased the following adaptor from a local Auto One parts store. Similar adaptors can be found on E bay and apparently VW/Audi also make one as a spare part. Pro-Quip also make a jerry can spout with the right sized end. The equivalent petrol adapter has a smaller diameter.
IMG_1625 (Large).JPG


Works nicely with my standard Jerry can nozzle, but I’ve yet to see if it will allow me to refuel using a large truck bowser nozzle.

Cheers
Steve
 
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DaBull

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Refuelling Adaptor Nozzle

An essential accessory!!

The Grenadier fuel filler will only allow a small diesel nozzle to be inserted to fill the car. This is due to the misfuelling flap fitted in the inlet. While I can understand the need to stop misfuelling mistakes, this means you cant easily fill up using a jerry can or attruck bowsers. A fundamental limitation for remote Australia.

I purchased the following adaptor from a local Auto One parts store. Similar adaptors can be found on E bay and apparently VW/Audi also make one as a spare part. Pro-Quip also make a jerry can spout with the right sized end. The equivalent petrol adapter has a smaller diameter.View attachment 7842441

Works nicely with my standard Jerry can nozzle, but I’ve yet to see if it will allow me to refuel using a large truck bowser nozzle.

Cheers
Steve
Looks like it would work for other emergencies too! DaBull 😂
 

DenisM

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Thanks @DenisM. Yes I'm also surprised. I couldn't tune in any commercial DAB stations in Perth and the Ineos Australia chap who was visiting the dealer when I got the software updated advised it was because the Grenadier radio is DAB only. That said all the marketing brochures say DAB+ while the owners manual is just DAB.

Cheers
Steve
Hi Steve,
I put little faith in the veracity of the Owner's Manual :rolleyes:...

The paper label pasted on the underside of my head-unit reads:
INEOS Automotive: AS-IPC Media Headunit -DAB
EE-0000001975_001
Model No: INM2004MA SW: SW - 0000000303
Supplier Code: NEU Qingdao HW: EE - 0000001973

According to the Neusoft website, the INM2004MA model is exported to Europe, and presumably the UK (and Australia!) which are predominantly DAB+
Perhaps our UK and European forumites could chime in here?

Even though it says DAB, it should actually be DAB+"ready". Fitting a DAB-only -not DAB+ radio in vehicles for the Australian market is certainly NOT "fit for purpose". The Aust. Communications Authority settled on the DAB+ codec from the outset (excluding a trial with DAB 15yrs ago) on the basis of developments in Europe, especially Germany. Perhaps our German friends might comment on whether they can get DAB+ and what their head-unit model is?

So while the Ineos rep. might be "right" in thinking it's a DAB radio if he's just read the label, he's not correct 'in fact' in that it's actually DAB+:unsure:

I can receive at least a dozen DAB+ stations in Brisbane. While travelling south to Tassie last August, I was also able to receive DAB+ stations in Sydney and Melbourne.

Thinking back, it took me a little while to get the hang of tuning and storing the DAB+ stations of choice. I suspect this was because I was too hasty and forgot that it needs to "scan and lock on" like a digital TV...not "tune" like the analogue AM/FM.
Hope this helps
D.

EDIT: It appears that the Neusoft Model INM2004MB is exported to the US and Canada ... Canada no longer uses DAB but rather AM/FM/and SDARS (satellite digital radio) as does the USA.
 
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Rok_Dr

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Hi Steve,
I put little faith in the veracity of the Owner's Manual :rolleyes:...

The paper label pasted on the underside of my head-unit reads:
INEOS Automotive: AS-IPC Media Headunit -DAB
EE-0000001975_001
Model No: INM2004MA SW: SW - 0000000303
Supplier Code: NEU Qingdao HW: EE - 0000001973

According to the Neusoft website, the INM2004MA model is exported to Europe, and presumably the UK (and Australia!) which are predominantly DAB+
Perhaps our UK and European forumites could chime in here?

Even though it says DAB, it should actually be DAB+"ready". Fitting a DAB-only -not DAB+ radio in vehicles for the Australian market is certainly NOT "fit for purpose". The Aust. Communications Authority settled on the DAB+ codec from the outset (excluding a trial with DAB 15yrs ago) on the basis of developments in Europe, especially Germany. Perhaps our German friends might comment on whether they can get DAB+ and what their head-unit model is?

So while the Ineos rep. might be "right" in thinking it's a DAB radio if he's just read the label, he's not correct 'in fact' in that it's actually DAB+:unsure:

I can receive at least a dozen DAB+ stations in Brisbane. While travelling south to Tassie last August, I was also able to receive DAB+ stations in Sydney and Melbourne.

Thinking back, it took me a little while to get the hang of tuning and storing the DAB+ stations of choice. I suspect this was because I was too hasty and forgot that it needs to "scan and lock on" like a digital TV...not "tune" like the analogue AM/FM.
Hope this helps
D.

EDIT: It appears that the Neusoft Model INM2004MB is exported to the US and Canada ... Canada no longer uses DAB but rather AM/FM/and SDARS (satellite digital radio) as does the USA.
Thank you again @DenisM That is good information. If you have any tips/advice on how to scan and save stations of choice, rather than the default scan let me know.

Cheers Steve
 

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Roof Bars

For many years I’ve used Rhino HD square bars and as a result have a reasonable investment in fittings for them. While the INEOS Rhino roof bars are very well made and good value, the bar profile is different and they are only presently available in pairs.

Following on from the posts of @jb_hamon (eg https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/roof-racks-head-up-displays-and-dash-cams-etc-any-after-market-accessory.12410499/post-1333199557), I’ve fitted 3 1800mm HD Square Rhino bars. You could get away with 1650mm bars, but it would be tight. I already had 2 sets of RL210 legs fitted with S2 retaining straps (to suit a 70 series land cruiser) and purchased a third set of RL210DS8 legs (for a Landrover Defender) which had S8 retaining straps that are a slightly different profile and a couple of mm longer reach under the gutter. I couldn’t get the S8 straps as a spare part for my old feet, but the roof rack sales guy suggested buying a set of S5 straps used on a GU Patrol which have a significantly greater reach under the gutter. Unfortunately they only come in sets of 4 so had to buy 2 sets. Pic following illustrates the difference in reach.

IMG_1871_EDT.jpg


IMG_1763.jpg

S5 strap fitted

I’ve mounted the bars to the gutters, between and to the front and rear of the grab handles. I’m finding little or no gutter flex when I hang my 90kg off the bars in these positions. Since I’m not going to be carrying heavy loads on the roof, I’m not going to fit any further bracing or supports to the legs at this point in time.


IMG_1873.jpg
IMG_1875.jpg


Cheers
Steve
 
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Rok_Dr

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UHF Radio Install

I installed a GME XRS-370c UHF, following John Canny’s excellent YouTube videos.

Bought the 4wd kit, which includes the radio, heavy duty antenna base and low gain antenna along with a high gain antenna and an antenna cap (part No. CA006 or CA006b) so I can take the antenna off in the city. Finally I picked up a canvas antenna bag from AOS canvas for storing the antennas (Antenna Bag). Both fit snugly in the bag and it fits neatly at the base of the rear seat in the cargo bay.
IMG_1833.jpg


IMG_1835.jpg


Mounted the antenna on the front left of the bullbar.
IMG_1829.jpg


Encased the coax cable in conduit, from the antenna to the firewall and covered it again with fabric tape at potential wear points. I took particular care in removing the firewall grommet as one slip and it would have been irrecoverably lost. Used some packing tape and a forked trim tool to remove it and hold it safely during extraction.
DSC05005 (Small).JPG


Note if you have the safari roof option this grommet won’t be available so you’ll have to find another way through. Used a length of fluoro green whipper snipper cord to help feed/pull cables through and some masking tape to attach it to the coax cable.

Like John, I connected the radio to the passenger footwell auxiliary power cable (INT1 roof switch) and mounted it to the steel bracket under the glove box using double sided tape and a cable tie. I see on the forum that newer vehicles use this bracket for mounting the Knee airbag so you may need to find another position. I can turn the radio on using the INT1 roof switch, which I labelled UHF. I mounted the Mic bracket to the driver’s side blank panel and black plastic trim above. This gives enough clearance to access the switches below.

1707398687607.jpeg

IMG_1766.jpg


IMG_1765.jpg


Cheers
Steve
 

Rok_Dr

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Power Adaptor Cables

I’ve put together a set of Deutsch plug adaptor cables (Anderson, Merit and cigarette 12v), for the roof outlets. Velcro ties from Bunnings help keep them away from the doors and hold my LED light strip from the roof bars. Purchased the bits from Connector Tech ALS in Brisbane following the advice of @TheDocAUS. I may also make a NATO plug to SB50 Anderson plug adaptor in the fullness of time.

IMG_1629 (Small).jpg
IMG_1886 (Small).jpg
IMG_1887 (Small).jpg


Cheers
Steve
 

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Power Adaptor Cables

I’ve put together a set of Deutsch plug adaptor cables (Anderson, Merit and cigarette 12v), for the roof outlets. Velcro ties from Bunnings help keep them away from the doors and hold my LED light strip from the roof bars. Purchased the bits from Connector Tech ALS in Brisbane following the advice of @TheDocAUS. I may also make a NATO plug to SB50 Anderson plug adaptor in the fullness of time.

View attachment 7843833View attachment 7843834View attachment 7843835

Cheers
Steve
Steve

What cable size do you use on the Deutsch to Anderson plug?
 

Rok_Dr

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Steve

What cable size do you use on the Deutsch to Anderson plug?
12AWG Michael. I really should put an inline 20amp fuse on it, but in reality all the loads I will be running off the roof outlets will be way less than 10amps per outlet so the 25 amp fuse in the fuse box will cover me. The plan is to run any high amp Anderson plug loads, like an air compressor, off the NATO Plug or under bonnet jump start post.

Cheers
Steve
 

Rok_Dr

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Towing Preparation
First up the electric brake controller. I decided to go as standard as possible retaining the 13 pin EU trailer plug and getting the Ineos Redarc brake controller kit fitted.

The kit was installed by my trusted auto sparky (Schultz Automotive in Willetton for those SOR in Perth). It was not cheap as this was the first Grenadier they had seen, but they did a very neat job. I also got them to run an Anderson plug to power the trailer off the main battery, to avoid the hassles of using the NATO plug and an adaptor. They fitted it neatly in a weatherproof enclosure next to the trailer plug, wired off the main battery.

1707959095864.png

Anderson Plug location

I bought a Narva 13pin EU to 7 pin flat wiring adaptor and rewired it so the power from EU plug pin 9 goes to pin 2 on the flat plug, The camper needs a hot wire to pin 2 to trigger the Redarc BMS to charge the house batteries from the Anderson plug when the vehicle is running. Modified schematic pic below. The trailer doesn’t have reversing lights. As an aside the Narva adaptor is wired up as standard to match the Grenadier Redarc electric brake install with the brakes on pin 12 of the EU plug and going to pin 5 on the flat plug.
1707959214232.png

Modified adaptor wiring schematic.

Moving on to tow hitches. Firstly the standard rear INEOS hitch receiver has an opening approximately 1mm smaller than most other hitch receivers in Australia. As a result not all 50mm tongues fit, so if you are buying another tongue test it before you buy. The camper trailer had a slight nose down attitude using the standard INEOS hitch, which has a 2.5" drop. I bought a Hayman Reece tongue which has a 1” drop. All sits pretty flat now (see pic in post #1) and the number plate is still visible.

1707959435198.png


I optioned Henry with a front tow hitch receiver as it seemed like a good idea at the time. I’m glad I did as it makes moving the camper trailer up my tight angled driveway so damm easy. Plus I can just idle it up the drive using low range unlocked.
1707959526531.png


Cheers
Steve
 
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TheDocAUS

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Towing Preparation

Moving on to tow hitches. Firstly the standard rear INEOS hitch receiver has an opening approximately 1mm smaller than most other hitch receivers in Australia. As a result not all 50mm tongues fit, so if you are buying another tongue test it before you buy. The camper trailer had a slight nose down attitude using the standard INEOS hitch, which has a 2.5" drop. I bought a Hayman Reece tongue which has a 1” drop. All sits pretty flat now (see pic in post #1)and the number plate is still visible.
In this post look under Towing Gear for some compatible towing tongues in Australia (for those that do not have one).
 

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In this post look under Towing Gear for some compatible towing tongues in Australia (for those that do not have one).
Thanks Michael, that's useful info. However given the tight tolerances I would still advise people to check and there will be variation in dimensions of tongues made by the same manufacturer. In my case the Hayman Reece tongue I had in my collection was slightly rectangular and wouldn't slide in far enough into the receiver to allow the pin to be fitted. The new Hayman Reece tongue fitted perfectly.

Cheers

Steve
 

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I currently driving a loan Grenadier while Henry is at the dealers getting a few issues attended to. Its interesting comparing the 2 cars. The loaner is a very low VIN number trialmaster diesel without a bullbar or winch. Not a peep from the front parking sensors and it is perceptibly less Gruff accelerating through the 1800-2000rpm resonance rattle zone. Steering doesn't pulse during low speed manoeuvring at the shopping centre.

Update from the dealer today is that they think they have solved the front PDC errors, have made progress with the 1800-2200rpm resonance rattles, but have a couple of more things to try, fitted the new door seals and applied yet another software update. Parts have been ordered for the rubbing steering arms and they will also look at the steering pulsing.

Cheers

Steve
 

Rok_Dr

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Water Tanks

Taking Jonathon & Hannah’s @globalgregors advice (https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/show-us-your-mods.12413129/page-3#post-1333221454) I bought a Pak offroad foot well water tank from OCAM industries who had it on special over Christmas, new year. https://www.ocamindustries.com.au/pak-offroad-foot-well-tank-water-tank-40lt-universal-fit

The tank has a low enough profile that it fits under the folded rear seat. I also fitted 15mm male-female mini ball valves and 15mm male snap fit hose connectors to the outlets on each side and made up a short hose pigtail so I can fill up water bottles. The snap fit connectors also allow me to hook up my 12 volt water transfer pump to move water to my camper trailer’s water tanks. Valves and snap fit connectors were purchased from E-bay.

If I need to carry additional water I still have the footwell bladder I used with my discovery 2 that I can lay on top of the folded seat and secure to the lower D loops beside each rear door.

1708609493260.png


1708609448042.png


1708609467426.png
 
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