Sure, I see that as #1 above. e.g. insufficient cooling or oil circ compared to a Jeep, for example. Feels weird though, when mere Jeeps or 4x4 SUVs are great for flat towing.
Where’s the weak link?
You have to be more specific while discussing a Jeep as an example.
Assuming we are talking about a part-time 4WD vehicle, the front axle and driveshaft can be mechanically disconnected from the transfer case. Typically the transfer case is also left in Neutral, and transmission - in Park (if automatic) or Neutral (if manual). In this case, when the jeep in question is flat-towed, the rear pinion of the transfer case is rotated by the rear axle, the chain (most if not all of the jeep transfer cases now are chain-driven) is in motion but lubricated by the ATF in the case, but the range selection gears are not connected to the output shaft of the transmission. As long as things can remain as I described, the jeep can be flat-towed as long as you want.
If there's a chance of some of that to reengage on its own, it's instantaneous horrendous news for the automatic transmission, or for the engine with manual transmission. Youtube has a great video of a Wrangler flat-towed by a Class A motorhome in low first.
The situation for full-time 4WD Jeeps (Grand Cherokee) may be different. The situation for full-time 4WD Land Rovers of the past (RRC, D1) is also different - you could technically flat-tow them with transfer case in N and transmission in Park - but I wouldn't trust the transfer case to stay in neutral forever. I don't even know if there's a detent ball that could keep the lever in neutral.
For the original poster - it's your decision if you prefer to have a 5600-lb curb weight vehicle on a trailer, or you can get under and unbolt the axle ends of the driveshafts and support them disconnected. I did exactly that once flat-towing a Range Rover Classic from San Diego to AZ - took me maybe 15 minutes to undo the bolts at the axle flanges.