Battery drained.

[Grenxer]

Sorry guys but I’m in a pickle ! I’ve had Jeeps , Land Rovers, Isuzu troopers ! And and many many more cars and I’ve always know how to charge the battery. But unfortunately, I accidentally left the keys in my Grenadier and completely drained the battery. Now I have scoured the owners manual, searched online for tutorials and even called the dealer for help but they never answered! I’m climbing out of my skin with frustration simply needing some direction here where it he heck is the battery located so I can charge the darn thing so I can get to work??? Anyone ? Please?

 

[ADVAW8S]

Here is a wild question, how many people with trialmasters have experience battery drain vs number of people with fieldmasters single battery?

 

[angstorms]

I am doing the same with NOCO Genius 10 UK, as most of my time is school run and grocery so driving EV daily for easy navigating in town.

Are you able to charge up over 90%?

Mine only stops at 80% something and never beyond that level. Have to top it quite often.

I had it up to 90%, I am thinking the CTEK is fighting all of use Since I saw it discharging couple times . I need to go read that Manual on that Unit, It may get the boot, for different vendor product this summer.

 

[Tomdoc]

I have never had my battery SOC above 90% on the main one. The secondary one is always at 95% plus. Reason? My installed 2-way radio gear has a constant draw even when switched off (it's a known thing). Solution is going to be to install an isolation switch for the radios and a battery voltage booster in line to their supply. Thus always at 13.8V when using them but ability to completely turn them off from the secondary supply.

 

[Clark Kent]

It certainly is always a good idea to carry a dedicated starter battery with cables or a jump starter pack.

Regarding dpf regeneration, however, the best practice would be to finish the regen cycle driving, preferrably at elevated rpm and power. This has been discussed around here several times. Prevents both premature dpf failure and battery drain.

With modern vehicles, we have to accept who's master and who's subordinate...

I got caught with this on Monday.

I left home and drove 20 minutes to an appointment. 5 minutes from my destination a dpf burn commenced (fans operating, oil temp rise to 102c) and was still running when I arrived at a full car park. With no time to find another park AND wait for the dpf burn to finish I locked the vehicle and walked away with the fans still running. I came back 45 minutes later and the vehicle started normally.
I drive two short trips across town. After the 2nd stop the vehicle would crank but not start. Cranking speed seemed ok so I didn't think of low battery voltage. I logged a roadside call and sent my agent a message (their workshop was nearby). I then checked the off-road electrical page and saw 12.4V. Not great but not flat either.

30 minutes later while waiting for roadside I tried to start the vehicle again and it started normally. Then I realised that the main battery must have been drained by the dpf cycle and had not had time to recover. Waiting 30 minutes allowed the smartpass to trickle charge the main battery from the auxiliary battery so I could start normally.

The dpf logic needs to be improved to stop the battery drain after shutting off the vehicle.

Edit: My assumption is the fans are responding to a dpf burn but as @DenisM postulates, it may actually be a secondary cooling cycle and unrelated to dpf. Result is the same: high current draw from the battery after vehicle shutdown.

 

[Rok_Dr]

I

30 minutes later while waiting for roadside I tried to start the vehicle again and it started normally. Then I realised that the main battery must have been drained by the dpf cycle and had not had time to recover. Waiting 30 minutes allowed the smartpass to trickle charge the main battery from the auxiliary battery so I could start normally.

The dpf logic needs to be improved to stop the battery drain after shutting off the vehicle.

Edit: My assumption is the fans are responding to a dpf burn but as @DenisM postulates, it may actually be a secondary cooling cycle and unrelated to dpf. Result is the same: high current draw from the battery after vehicle shutdown.

Interesting. My understanding was that the smartpass should connect both batteries directly if the starter battery couldn't start the car. The trickle charging is another function. As to cooling fans I think they can run in both situations. I observed in the hot weather here that occasionally my fans ran at lower speed after i switched my car off.

Cheers
Steve

 

[Clark Kent]

Interesting. My understanding was that the smartpass should connect both batteries directly if the starter battery couldn't start the car. The trickle charging is another function. As to cooling fans I think they can run in both situations. I observed in the hot weather here that occasionally my fans ran at lower speed after i switched my car off.

Cheers
Steve

It was a bit weird. I thought similar. Perhaps the main battery voltage was not low enough @ 12.4v for the Smartpass to detect a flat battery and couple the two batteries, but was low enough for trickle charging to operate. I had a few start attempts over maybe a 5 minute window but had no joy until 30 mins later.

FYI: The Allianz roadside assistance number I got from Ineos in July 2023 has changed. The correct number for the Ineos Australia roadside plan is 1800 819 605.

 

[Clark Kent]

Interesting. My understanding was that the smartpass should connect both batteries directly if the starter battery couldn't start the car. The trickle charging is another function. As to cooling fans I think they can run in both situations. I observed in the hot weather here that occasionally my fans ran at lower speed after i switched my car off.

Cheers
Steve

I just posted about DPF over here after this little battery adventure caused me to do some more reading about regeneration mode. I agree the fans will operate as required.

The engine is forced to run hot during dpf regeneration and I am now convinced that's the reason the fans operate at full power during a dpf burn. The ECU cannot predict if the driver will shut off the vehicle during a regeneration cycle but will continue to run the fans from the battery to control engine and exhaust soak temps. I recall there is an electric water pump in the LP circuit so that pump may be running also to circulate coolant and expel heat at the fan forced coolers.

The ECU logic seems to sacrifice battery voltage if necessary to control temperature.

 

[Eric]

I got caught with this on Monday.

I left home and drove 20 minutes to an appointment. 5 minutes from my destination a dpf burn commenced (fans operating, oil temp rise to 102c) and was still running when I arrived at a full car park. With no time to find another park AND wait for the dpf burn to finish I locked the vehicle and walked away with the fans still running. I came back 45 minutes later and the vehicle started normally.
I drive two short trips across town. After the 2nd stop the vehicle would crank but not start. Cranking speed seemed ok so I didn't think of low battery voltage. I logged a roadside call and sent my agent a message (their workshop was nearby). I then checked the off-road electrical page and saw 12.4V. Not great but not flat either.

30 minutes later while waiting for roadside I tried to start the vehicle again and it started normally. Then I realised that the main battery must have been drained by the dpf cycle and had not had time to recover. Waiting 30 minutes allowed the smartpass to trickle charge the main battery from the auxiliary battery so I could start normally.

The dpf logic needs to be improved to stop the battery drain after shutting off the vehicle.

Edit: My assumption is the fans are responding to a dpf burn but as @DenisM postulates, it may actually be a secondary cooling cycle and unrelated to dpf. Result is the same: high current draw from the battery after vehicle shutdown.

And if you only have the single battery setup, you are stuck

 

[Clark Kent]

And if you only have the single battery setup, you are stuck

Exactly! I have a meeting with my agent next week before my vehicle goes in for some work for a month while I am in Europe. This issue is on the list I sent him today. Why didn't the Smartpass start assist function work per spec, and how is this a good management of the battery if it could leave a single battery vehicle stranded?

 

[CountyV8]

+ 1 for the NOCO the agents loan Grenadier went flat on me last week. Up and running again in a minute. So useful and stows under passenger seat.

 

[Rok_Dr]

Exactly! I have a meeting with my agent next week before my vehicle goes in for some work for a month while I am in Europe. This issue is on the list I sent him today. Why didn't the Smartpass start assist function work per spec, and how is this a good management of the battery if it could leave a single battery vehicle stranded?

I look forward to hearing their reply!

 

[nuclearmonkey]

I wonder if there is a time threshold that must be met in order for the smartpass to connect the two batteries together… ie - enough time cranking on the starter for the smartpass to recognize a low starter, and then open up.