battery charge limitation

[Karearea]

Taking them out would be a big undertaking - they are hard to get at and very heavy. Diconnecting them to work on the car is a non-issue in respects to unpsetting the elctrical systems if you first open the drivers door and let the car wake up and then go back to sleep - around 15mins. Disconnect the aux battery negative lead, then the start battery negative lead and then the CTEK connections (if required - make sure that their lights have gone out first). I protect my negative battery leads in plastic zip lock bags while disconnected. To connect back up simply reverse the order. I have done this several times now and have not had any warnings or issues even with the batteries disconnected for several days.

Thanks for the details
Haven’t done it yet and after many more longer trips and getting to know the system better, I’m actually very comfortable with it!
And as I’ve said many times before, Shitake hasn’t let me down yet
She is quite “needy” though like our dog Harry.
She started “bleating” down in the car deck on the Cook Strait ferry having been left alone an hour ago, but recovered after some soothing words and a manual relock!

 

[DaveB]

Interesting one yesterday
I hadn't driven the Grenadier for 4 days
When I got in about 10:30 am it started first go as usual, I have the extra Auxiliary battery.
Middle of winter and it had gotten down to 5 degrees overnight, not sure if that had an impact.
Red battery alarm on screen and low battery voltage flashing red
I went to the electrical screen and it showed in red 38% main battery charge.
About 30 minutes of driving battery charge hit 61% and turned amber.
At 71% it turned white and the alarm went off.
It was up to 85 Amps charging for a while. I went down this morning after another 5 degree winters night and showing 65% amber state of charge.
Again kicked over straight away.

View attachment 7863946View attachment 7863947View attachment 7863948

Well I put the battery on charge overnight with my Ctek MXS5.0
After about 5 hours yesterday it was up to 80% charge and this morning it was up to 94% charge.
CTEK unit also tested the battery and said it was ok.
I will leave it off the charger overnight and see how it goes.

 

[Gwynne]

I have a November 2023 delivery car. When new the car battery would discharge about 1% per day - so after 10 days it would be about 90% fully charged if at 100% originally. Recently this has got far worse and the discharge, with the car locked and nothing left on, is up to 4-5% per day - so three says is 15%.

I mentioned this to my dealer (Harwoods, Portsmouth) and this deterioration and performance is apparently very common in that era vehicles. Ineos have been informed and are apparently working on a software fix with no eta. Does anyone know any more or have similar isues?

Many thanks

 

[Skydance]

I have a November 2023 delivery car. When new the car battery would discharge about 1% per day - so after 10 days it would be about 90% fully charged if at 100% originally. Recently this has got far worse and the discharge, with the car locked and nothing left on, is up to 4-5% per day - so three says is 15%.

I mentioned this to my dealer (Harwoods, Portsmouth) and this deterioration and performance is apparently very common in that era vehicles. Ineos have been informed and are apparently working on a software fix with no eta. Does anyone know any more or have similar isues?

Many thanks

Mine used to be like this. It would discharge quite quickly and never charged more than 90 percent. It would only charge at 1 or 2 per cent on average. Even asked my dealers to change the battery but they said no after doing testing.

However by luck, my dealer fixed this by resetting the software. This can only be done using the diagnostic software I was told. I have a feeling that some may not have the software installed properly in certain sequences.

Just come back after 2 weeks holiday and it fired up straight away with 79% state of charge. Charged upto 82% in 15 mins. Took delivery in May 2023

 

[YIPPE]

Well I put the battery on charge overnight with my Ctek MXS5.0
After about 5 hours yesterday it was up to 80% charge and this morning it was up to 94% charge.
CTEK unit also tested the battery and said it was ok.
I will leave it off the charger overnight and see how it goes.

View attachment 7864210View attachment 7864211

Did you charge directly to main battery or from the POS terminal under bonnet. A BMW video says to use the terminals under bonnet and not battery due to something with ecus / bms. I'm just wondering before I bolt up my charger tail plug directly to battery. If anyone knows if it would somehow affect the system, I don't see how. But as it is BMW engine I'm assuming same sort of thing in the gren. Otherwise I'll bolt up the charger lead under the bonnet.

 

[Clark Kent]

Did you charge directly to main battery or from the POS terminal under bonnet. A BMW video says to use the terminals under bonnet and not battery due to something with ecus / bms. I'm just wondering before I bolt up my charger tail plug directly to battery. If anyone knows if it would somehow affect the system, I don't see how. But as it is BMW engine I'm assuming same sort of thing in the gren. Otherwise I'll bolt up the charger lead under the bonnet.

Trickle charging is discussed in this thread.
Charge via the + post under the bonnet and the engine lifting ring (-), or under the seat but after the BMS.

The Grenadier has a Battery Management System (BMS) which controls the charge rate from the smart alternator to maintain a battery State Of Charge (SOC) around 80%. This leaves approximately 20% of battery capacity to absorb power during coasting when electrical energy can be recovered without increasing engine load and fuel consumption.
All current flow in and out of the battery needs to be downstream (after) the BMS so the BMS can do its job. If you trickle charge directly to the battery the BMS is unaware of the altered battery condition.
There is a link to a good YT video in that thread which demonstrates the difference of charging directly to the battery posts versus downstream of the BMS. See here.

 

[YIPPE]

Trickle charging is discussed in this thread.
Charge via the + post under the bonnet and the engine lifting ring (-), or under the seat but after the BMS.

The Grenadier has a Battery Management System (BMS) which controls the charge rate from the smart alternator to maintain a battery State Of Charge (SOC) around 80%. This leaves approximately 20% of battery capacity to absorb power during coasting when electrical energy can be recovered without increasing engine load and fuel consumption.
All current flow in and out of the battery needs to be downstream (after) the BMS so the BMS can do its job. If you trickle charge directly to the battery the BMS is unaware of the altered battery condition.
There is a link to a good YT video in that thread which demonstrates the difference of charging directly to the battery posts versus downstream of the BMS. See here.

Thankyou legend.

 

[DaveB]

Did you charge directly to main battery or from the POS terminal under bonnet. A BMW video says to use the terminals under bonnet and not battery due to something with ecus / bms. I'm just wondering before I bolt up my charger tail plug directly to battery. If anyone knows if it would somehow affect the system, I don't see how. But as it is BMW engine I'm assuming same sort of thing in the gren. Otherwise I'll bolt up the charger lead under the bonnet.

under the bonnet
positive terminal and engine lifting eye for the ground

 

[255/85]

Before we picked up the vehicle we had the dealer put the (single) battery on a charger for a few days. They used the underhood connections and our vehicle commonly hit 99-100% state of charge for the first 1000 miles. Now it seems to hover in the mid 90s even after a 50 mile drive and doesn't seem to hit the high numbers seen in the beginning. At some point I intend to permanently install a charger directly to the battery with an external plug similar to what @anand did as we don't drive every day. Currently less 3000 miles on the odo.

 

[Logsplitter]

Trickle charging is discussed in this thread.
Charge via the + post under the bonnet and the engine lifting ring (-), or under the seat but after the BMS.

The Grenadier has a Battery Management System (BMS) which controls the charge rate from the smart alternator to maintain a battery State Of Charge (SOC) around 80%. This leaves approximately 20% of battery capacity to absorb power during coasting when electrical energy can be recovered without increasing engine load and fuel consumption.
All current flow in and out of the battery needs to be downstream (after) the BMS so the BMS can do its job. If you trickle charge directly to the battery the BMS is unaware of the altered battery condition.
There is a link to a good YT video in that thread which demonstrates the difference of charging directly to the battery posts versus downstream of the BMS. See here.

My smart charger is wired directly to the starter battery and has been for about 10 months now. I use it on a regular basis with no noticeable issue. Do you suggest I take this out and just connect to the jump start post as I do when solar charging

 

[Xrford]

My smart charger is wired directly to the starter battery and has been for about 10 months now. I use it on a regular basis with no noticeable issue. Do you suggest I take this out and just connect to the jump start post as I do when solar charging

You can connect your positive of your charger directly to the starter battery post, it is where you connect the negative of your charger that affects the battery monitor system (BMS). Do not connect the neg cable of your charger directly to the neg post of the starter battery. You need to connect it between where the intelligent battery sensor is ( the IBS module is near the neg post) and the chassis ground or at a chassis grounding point. The BMS needs to see the negative electron current flowing into and out of the battery via the IBS in order to recognize whether the battery is discharging or is charging. If you connect your neg of your charger directly to the battery neg post you end up bypassing the sensor and then it can no longer sense the electron flow of the charger.

 

[Logsplitter]

You can connect your positive of your charger directly to the starter battery post, it is where you connect the negative of your charger that affects the battery monitor system (BMS). Do not connect the neg cable of your charger directly to the neg post of the starter battery. You need to connect it between where the intelligent battery sensor is ( the IBS module is near the neg post) and the chassis ground or at a chassis grounding point. The BMS needs to see the negative electron current flowing into and out of the battery via the IBS in order to recognize whether the battery is discharging or is charging. If you connect your neg of your charger directly to the battery neg post you end up bypassing the sensor and then it can no longer sense the electron flow of the charger.

So I had it fitted by an 4x4 outfit in South Africa and I think they connected the negative to a chassis ground bolt. So is that OK

 

[acwiltshire]

I have a November 2023 delivery car. When new the car battery would discharge about 1% per day - so after 10 days it would be about 90% fully charged if at 100% originally. Recently this has got far worse and the discharge, with the car locked and nothing left on, is up to 4-5% per day - so three says is 15%.

I mentioned this to my dealer (Harwoods, Portsmouth) and this deterioration and performance is apparently very common in that era vehicles. Ineos have been informed and are apparently working on a software fix with no eta. Does anyone know any more or have similar isues?

Many thanks

I have a Feb 24 built Fieldmaster diesel. I would say that after 2000 miles it is loosing 3% a day. I have turned off the dashcam parking aspect as this ate power. What I notice is that even after a 165 mile run it can only make 72%.
I agree there is a weakness.

 

[Eric]

I have a Feb 24 built Fieldmaster diesel. I would say that after 2000 miles it is loosing 3% a day. I have turned off the dashcam parking aspect as this ate power. What I notice is that even after a 165 mile run it can only make 72%.
I agree there is a weakness.

The battery SOC is very much temperature dependant when setting off first thing in the mornings. I often don't use mine for sometimes 3 days, if it has been warm overnight for those 3 days it loses at most 1%. However on the frosty mornings after 3 days non use it can loose 5%

 

[Skydance]

I have a Feb 24 built Fieldmaster diesel. I would say that after 2000 miles it is loosing 3% a day. I have turned off the dashcam parking aspect as this ate power. What I notice is that even after a 165 mile run it can only make 72%.
I agree there is a weakness.

I would ask the dealer to have a look as it’s not normal. Mines charges very quickly above 80%, then slow down after 90%. After a system reset done by the dealer. Mine was previously like yours. It’s perfect now. Single battery.

 

[Xrford]

So I had it fitted by an 4x4 outfit in South Africa and I think they connected the negative to a chassis ground bolt. So is that OK

Yes any chassis ground point will work.

 

[YIPPE]

So really if i chase the postive terminal post from the bonnet back to the busbar at the battery, Connect my charger termination plug lead thing (ctek provide with their smart chargers) to this, and the negative lead of the plug to the negative body connection next to the start battery, I'll be right and have easier access rather than popping bonnet. Just flick open rear passenger door instead.

 

[Clark Kent]

So really if i chase the postive terminal post from the bonnet back to the busbar at the battery, Connect my charger termination plug lead thing (ctek provide with their smart chargers) to this, and the negative lead of the plug to the negative body connection next to the start battery, I'll be right and have easier access rather than popping bonnet. Just flick open rear passenger door instead.

That would suffice. Or go straight to the starter battery (+) terminal and the (-) ground connection next to the battery. For permanent charger connection see my post here and @anand's post directly above it. Serving suggestion only. The only rule is don't connect directly to the negative battery terminal or you'll bypass the BMS (IBS).

 

[TheDocAUS]

So really if i chase the postive terminal post from the bonnet back to the busbar at the battery, Connect my charger termination plug lead thing (ctek provide with their smart chargers) to this, and the negative lead of the plug to the negative body connection next to the start battery, I'll be right and have easier access rather than popping bonnet. Just flick open rear passenger door instead.

And also look here from the busbar end. One post on the 7 stud BB, a second on the 5 stud BB. AU Spec diesel.

 

[TheDocAUS]

Also around para 7.3 and following of the Rok Dr Guide.