auxillary outlet connections

[skoller]

Can anyone explain which battery and which fuse box is the best to power auxillary outlets to power fridges etc. All the explanations so far about batteries,ctecks,alternator charging and the like is all a bit complicated and confusing and technical. It reminds me of my Defender days when it took a lot of searching to find out about things. I am sure this is all new to all of us and we are lucky we have some smart people among us to help out

 

[globalgregors]

Can anyone explain which battery and which fuse box is the best to power auxillary outlets to power fridges etc. All the explanations so far about batteries,ctecks,alternator charging and the like is all a bit complicated and confusing and technical. It reminds me of my Defender days when it took a lot of searching to find out about things. I am sure this is all new to all of us and we are lucky we have some smart people among us to help out

I’d also puzzled over this question but thought I should try things out as Ineos conceives them.

Accordingly I’ve been testing the dual battery system as delivered, with one small modification.
I substituted the cig socket 12V outlet in the loadspace with a flat panel that includes a 50A Anderson plug and a 12V cig socket.

Plugged into this I have a 350W inverter and a 40L drawer fridge, both piggy-backed off the Anderson.

I have been running the fridge constantly and occasionally charging an iPad and using a StarLink off the inverter.

The Offroad/Electrical screen typically shows maximum 97% battery remaining at the end of a days driving.
Running the above combination drops the remaining battery estimate overnight to ~72%.

This is then back up to ~90% within the first 30 minutes of driving.

When parked up I’m finding that my 250W solar blanket is charging the battery faster than the fridge can consume it.
That said, I’m in an arid location at present with unbroken sunlight.

The blanket has an MPPT controller which I alligator clip directly to the secondary battery.

So initial conclusion is that the standard setup (fridge plugged in in rear loadspace) is perfectly adequate at least for a fridge of this size in these conditions. It’s not what I’m used to but it seems perfectly functional.

I would however suggest the change to an Anderson flat panel as the standard plug in the loadspace is in a particularly exposed location if things move around.

I say all this intending to install a CTEK D250SE and 1000W inverter when we get back from this expedition.

Around the rest of the vehicle I presently have the following outlets allocated:

INT1 (port side footwell) - UHF radio
INT2 (starboard side footwell) - GPS
EXT1 (engine bay) - Front LED light bar
EXT2 (roof front starboard side) - Starboard side flood light
EXT3 (roof front port side) - Port side flood light
EXT4 - Winch
EXT5 (engine bay) - Unallocated

 

[TheDocAUS]

Can anyone explain which battery and which fuse box is the best to power auxillary outlets to power fridges etc. All the explanations so far about batteries,ctecks,alternator charging and the like is all a bit complicated and confusing and technical. It reminds me of my Defender days when it took a lot of searching to find out about things. I am sure this is all new to all of us and we are lucky we have some smart people among us to help out

Did you choose the aux power option?

 

[skoller]

Did you choose the aux power option?

Yes .Trialmaster

 

[TheDocAUS]

Then start adding the accessories to the power outlets provided as part of that package. One in each footwell (left and right side each with 10 amp circuits), four on the roof (but only two circuits, both of 25 amps), two circuits under the bonnet, one in the battery bay (40 amp circuit). You can then have the autoelectrician add a fridge circuit directly to the aux battery.

All these outlets are described in various threads on the forum, starting with a post just above by globalgregors.

Roof outlets use DTP plugs, others are just wire ends and you can crimp the joins or add plugs of your choice.

The Trialmaster also comes with a 7 stud busbar on the main battery and a 5 stud busbar on the aux battery. You can run your own circuits from any spare stud, read here.

LOWER RATED CIRCUITS FROM BATTERY TERMINALS
Ideas for this type of circuit can be found here.

BUSBARS USED ON THE INEOS
A 7 stud busbar is used on the main battery and a 5 stud busbar used on the aux battery, details here.

FUSES
If you want to know about the INEOS fuses read here.

CTEK CHARGERS
If you want to know about the CTEK 120S read here. The post also covers the CTEK 250SE (DC to DC charger with solar input).

UHF INSTALL
Watch John Canny's video here, and if you need mounting brackets go here.

TORQUE SETTINGS
If you want to know what torque settings to use for the busbar fuses and CTEK units (plus other stuff), look here.

 

[tristand]

To clarify what @TheDocAUS said - the 7 stud busbar / fuse box is powered from the main not the aux battery. It is easy to rewire it to be powered from the aux battery if you want to though:

https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/dual-battery-setup-modifications.12413300/

Tristan

 

[TheDocAUS]

Corrected, thanks. I think I started making that mistake after I bought a 7 stud busbar as a spare.

 

[skoller]

Corrected, thanks. I think I started making that mistake after I bought a 7 stud busbar as a spare.

Thank you . Thats the sort of guidance I was looking for. Excellent

 

[bnebenda]

I’d also puzzled over this question but thought I should try things out as Ineos conceives them.

Accordingly I’ve been testing the dual battery system as delivered, with one small modification.
I substituted the cig socket 12V outlet in the loadspace with a flat panel that includes a 50A Anderson plug and a 12V cig socket.

Plugged into this I have a 350W inverter and a 40L drawer fridge, both piggy-backed off the Anderson.

I have been running the fridge constantly and occasionally charging an iPad and using a StarLink off the inverter.

The Offroad/Electrical screen typically shows maximum 97% battery remaining at the end of a days driving.
Running the above combination drops the remaining battery estimate overnight to ~72%.

This is then back up to ~90% within the first 30 minutes of driving.

When parked up I’m finding that my 250W solar blanket is charging the battery faster than the fridge can consume it.
That said, I’m in an arid location at present with unbroken sunlight.

The blanket has an MPPT controller which I alligator clip directly to the secondary battery.

So initial conclusion is that the standard setup (fridge plugged in in rear loadspace) is perfectly adequate at least for a fridge of this size in these conditions. It’s not what I’m used to but it seems perfectly functional.

I would however suggest the change to an Anderson flat panel as the standard plug in the loadspace is in a particularly exposed location if things move around.

I say all this intending to install a CTEK D250SE and 1000W inverter when we get back from this expedition.

Around the rest of the vehicle I presently have the following outlets allocated:

INT1 (port side footwell) - UHF radio
INT2 (starboard side footwell) - GPS
EXT1 (engine bay) - Front LED light bar
EXT2 (roof front starboard side) - Starboard side flood light
EXT3 (roof front port side) - Port side flood light
EXT4 - Winch
EXT5 (engine bay) - Unallocated

Have you been able to locate EXT5? I think I found EXT1 but not yet EXT5 (I have the second battery and the aux switches)

 

[TheDocAUS]

This annotated image shows Ext 5 (look bottom right).

The fuse thread has lots of information.

 

[bnebenda]

This annotated image shows Ext 5 (look bottom right).

The fuse thread has lots of information.

Thanks, but I have seen that before. What I'm looking for is the "other end" (i.e. where under the bonnet is the EXT5 outlet)

 

[TheDocAUS]

That is on the forum also - a photo. I will see if I can find the image again.

The wires are near the airbox on a RHD car. The wire ends are taped in a shiny tape, whereas the other cables have matt black tape from memory.

EDIT: Found it, here are images from under the bonnet of a left hand drive INEOS.