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Are headlights supposed to be heated?

Standard 7" lights don't talk on the canbus.
Do we know for a fact that the headlights do? From what I remember they are triggered by traditional 12v, not data/CANBUS
 
Do we know for a fact that the headlights do? From what I remember they are triggered by traditional 12v, not data/CANBUS
I do not - but I'd be amazed if they don't. I thought just about everything in modern cars were canbus.

Isn't an engineer from the light mfgrs company on here?
 
I do not - but I'd be amazed if they don't. I thought just about everything in modern cars were canbus.

Isn't an engineer from the light mfgrs company on here?
Just checked on it, the headlights are triggered by regular 12v (through relays)
 
Just checked on it, the headlights are triggered by regular 12v (through relays)
Thread 'Nolden Headlights' https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/nolden-headlights.12410396/

Difficult to position the measuring tape one handed, but I believe it is an 8 inch light.
1000012308.jpg
 
Well, nothing is perfect. It's a commonly damaged part in a fender bender I'd rather not have be proprietary when Ineos shits the bed 5 years from now, and they could'a spent design cash on revising the ugly BMW shifter turd... at least the chinese are amazing at doing small production runs cheap. I just had one of our Merc vans in for repairs after it took out a nice 10 point buck. The Merc headlight assembly was 1200 dollars, but since the rig had 150k on the odometer, it no longer matched the right side assembly. I like our rigs to look neat and tidy, so I bought non oem for 250 for the other side. I couldn't tell the difference in my hand, and the fella issued the truck says he cant tell a difference at night. LED and laser ships are really quite cheap. I bet theres a difference in the materials that will show with road wear, but we shall see.
 
Maybe you could install a heating pad -, as this in the picture, around the headlights? Or at least close to the headlights.... It's 12volt - 50w. And not that expensive...
 

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Rest assured, if this becomes any kind of a real issue, the aftermarket will step in.

Decades of LR ownership have set my viewpoint to always a glass half-full. You won’t catch me crying, or throwing my arms up in the air in 10-years. There is always a way forward, and contingency plans when this proves difficult.
 
At -35°C icing of the windscreen outside is not an real or often happening issue, is it? The outside air is so dry, there is no humidity to ice something, when you're already down to that temperature for some time. It may ice if the car stood somewhere some time.

At --40°C my windscreen iced from the inside. Humidity taken into the inside of the car by shoes and your breath settled down on the windscreen (and all other screens)

Cheers
AWo
I was not talking abot humidity but "headlight glass cracks " discussed earlier.
 
Who is "they"?
And what do you mean with "aux"? Additional high beam? Working lights?

AWo
 
Silly question, I don't understand 90% of what anyone is saying, if the Grenadier light is 8" could you not just put a 7" in and have more gap for snow to escape and create the heat from a non-LED headlight. Or for those worried about future availability would this work. Or, as I'm an idiot (electrically), would this not work.
 
Depends...

To summarize...

- You would need the same mountung points because of the height adjustment
- If you use halogen lights, consider that more Ampere are flowing. Are the cables thick enough? Must the fuse be replaced? An halogen 7" uses 55 Watt, x2 = 110 Watt. The LED should have around 21 Watt. With 12 V the Ampere increase from 1,75 A to 4,5 A per light.
- Is it HCR or HC/R? (and not CRH even if it is your car) If the lights show an "H/CR" sign, the car switches the low beam off when it switches the high beam on. Internal electronics in the light keep the low beam on, while only the high beam cable is powered. That is the normal switching for a H4 halogel light. But that must not be for LED. If the light reads "HCR" it means that both connections stay powered on, low and high beam. That would kill your halogen bulb.
- Light monitoring - if the headlights are monitored this is either done by a signal, or most probably in the case of the Grenadier via the load. As the load increases with halogen, your headlight monitoring may show errors (another electronic gremlin added).
- it looks ugly with a (too big) gap
- It looks ugly, having cold coloured LED light all around but a warm coloured halogen headlight.
- you loose your daytime running light...that will throw an error...
- you loose your turning indicator light, that is not allowed and will also throw an error

AWo
 
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Who is "they"?
And what do you mean with "aux"? Additional high beam? Working lights?

AWo
After Market, some type of heated fog light that could be mounted on a front bumper light bar to make up for headlights getting blocked by snow.
 
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