I suppose I could walk outside and look, but, my keyboard is right here, and so are you...Or just replace the factory aux battery with a lithium set up in the same space
... are these AGM's or just regular lead acids? and group size are these?
I suppose I could walk outside and look, but, my keyboard is right here, and so are you...Or just replace the factory aux battery with a lithium set up in the same space
... are these AGM's or just regular lead acids? and group size are these?
Neither, they are EFB... And I'm 98% sure they are 95R/H9 size as they are 105Ah eachI suppose I could walk outside and look, but, my keyboard is right here, and so are you...
Is it safe to assume, in a pinch, those are replaceable with a standard flooded and not an agm?
Sure.... EFB is effectively a "intended for auto start/stop" standard battery and is slightly more resilient to numerous high amperage moments (the auto start/stop system). It still uses (roughly) the charge profile of a traditional battery, unlike AGMs
I feel AGM can handle high amperage and actually do better with high tech vehicles. The trade off, is they do worst when you draw them past 50%. Also heavy draw loads are better suited with AGM.
But, I'm reading the charging system isn't suitable.
AGM would absolutely be better... But, it is also notably more expensive
My battery discharged rapidly from time to time without any reason within less than a week. When down to nearly empty all lights have been on (all but the e-call light vanished after charging). I talked to my dealer and they measured the voltage under various circumstances for some days. At the end they replaced the battery by a new one as the thought that there might be a damaged cell in the first one.
Hi @Disco Dave I’m thinking of one of these systems for my leisure battery usage such as fridge. It says to use the supplied ignition wire for vehicles with modern/euro 6 alternators. Have you used an ignition live wire to your dc to dc charger
No I haven’t. Am not sure why it is necessary, the aux gets charged by the main, which gets charged by the alternator. My DC-DC is bolted to the top of my battery box. I can basically send or receive power from anywhere.Hi @Disco Dave I’m thinking of one of these systems for my leisure battery usage such as fridge. It says to use the supplied ignition wire for vehicles with modern/euro 6 alternators. Have you used an ignition live wire to your dc to dc charger
Portable Power Technology Vehicle Power Hub 1300 - 100Ah Lithium
A fully integrated solution combining 100Ah lithium battery, DC-DC battery charger, integrated MPPT solar controller & power outputs, all in a portable box.www.12voltplanet.co.uk
Have you checked to see if the DC/DC charger shuts down when you turn the engine off? Theoretically, if the power supply to the DC/DC charger is constant it will not shut down and continue to drain the power source.
Hi Tazzieman. Have you used an ignition trigger wire or just direct connection via the dc to dc charger to one of the two Grenadier batteries
Yep, that's the trigger wire that I used for my portable LiFePO4 battery in a box with DC/DC charger.
