So cables crimped and connectors installed on the Gren .
Then comes the side of the compressor ( I de-pinned the original connector and used Anderson again )
The fact that the Gren already had a fuse for this circuit I omitted mine from my pig tail . I used a 40 amp 12 v relay to control the compressor and a switch.
I used a relay that can me mounted on the Gren ( a lot of spare studs on the vertical part of the floor . ( tried mounting a relay base initially to be easy to change the relay if needed but due to the space constraint and the length of the studs it did not work , tried also a coupling nut and button head screw also did not work to my liking )
Location of Relay.
View attachment 7825440
The last bit is the switch I wanted this to be accessible without needing to lift he rear seat . so I decided to mount it with the air coupler. Will discuss this at the next bit.
Because I wanted to be able to use the air compressor with the Gren off I ignored the ignition wire. to avoid accidental activation (and for cool factor , could not resist) I used a covered switch .
To finish the harness I wrapped it with the finest quality chinesium tape ( could not find my tesa tape ) most likely someone nicked it . my brother insisted it was not him that turned out to be a lie, anyway .
Finished product comparison between my harness and the original supplied by ARB .
View attachment 7825441
Crimps used for the Anderson connectors :
View attachment 7825442
Air quick coupler + switch install :
Now this was a real head scratcher, almost came close to saying duck it and drilling a hole on the battery “box” but instead I cracked open a cold one and revisited it the next day.
So my solution to this is a bracket fabricated to attach with M10 sleeve nuts on the seat backet . Here I was playing with Millimetres very very annoying due to the proximity of the seat to the battery box . But its doable.
View attachment 7825443
View attachment 7825444
The bracket sits on the shelf on the left and extends up to the edge of the seat. I made sure there was enough clearance when lifting the seat and nothing was rubbing .
To connect the compressor to the palate I thought of 2 options. The easiest of the 2 is to use push in fittings and PTFE air line. The other is to use stainless braided PTFE lined hose . I opted for the second hoping that it will help dissipate some heat form the system .
View attachment 7825445
Now the outlets of the compressor are 1/8 NPT for the manifold silver bit and ¼ NPT for the black bit . I used an 1/8 NPT pressure switch on the manifold because of my future plans instead of the supplied ¼ NPT.
I decided to keep everything NPT and use the ARB couplers (They are US standard, might make an adaptor or change them later).
Connection is as follows SS braided line from compressor (in the future a T will be placed there to plumb the other side) that goes to the aluminium plate.
At the plate connection it would make sense to use an elbow but my plate was too thick for that so I opted for a bulkhead fitting and a 90 degree elbow .
Then the ARB quick coupler simply threads in. (I checked it does not interfere with the door or you legs)
The switch had to be mounted on the other side because there is simply no space.
Again this could be very easy if you are happy to drill the battery box. IF you do it the way I did just know there is minimal to no margin for error ( I have a lot of scrap aluminium prototypes to prove it )
View attachment 7825446
View attachment 7825447
Future plans:
1)Second air coupler on the left-hand side of the car with its own switch.
2)Professional made and anodised brackets. (Always good to know a machinist)
3) Third air coupler at the back of the car.
4) wiring revision for all watertight connectors (on the hunt for 40Amp 2 wire connectors that are not larger than the compressor itself + a delphi relay base)
That is all guys
Thank you hope you enjoyed. please feel free to share your installs.
I didn’t use Deutsch DTP plugs to connect my compressor, but an Anderson plug.
