That is pretty sweet
Thanks, I appreciate it. I’ve been doing 3D printing for over 10 years now. I approach it like eating an elephant- a bite at a time. People will recognize that I use TinkerCAD, which is what they let 1st graders use. I just can’t get past it, and it ‘works’ for me. On printers I started out on wooden Printrbots and just keep building the pyramid- though the printers are getting better and better, especially at removing some of the ‘little things’ that drive you crazy. Strongly recommend PRUSA printers. I have MINI, MK3, MK4 and the XL. So from $350 to $3500, they all work.
I am a big fan of Tinkercad as well but I suggest you give Onshape a try, like all CAD programs it takes a bit to initially get your head around but worth the effort. The ability to go back to any step, easily make a change and have that change flow through all stages is priceless.
www.theineosforum.com
Which filament did you use or recommend? On some of my smaller parts I have Meade they do not like the heat and bend. Granted mine were for small Molle parts being suspended upside down and the weight pulled them to the point of it not being useful.
Good question. Right now I’m printing these in Carbon Fiber filled PETG. That stuff is STIFF, but I haven’t tried it out at internal car temps, that might be an issue for PETG, even if it is fiber reinforced.
www.3dxtech.com
Thank you.Good question. Right now I’m printing these in Carbon Fiber filled PETG. That stuff is STIFF, but I haven’t tried it out at internal car temps, that might be an issue for PETG, even if it is fiber reinforced.
I have some Prusament PC and PA resins (CF filled). The PA(11?) is probably as good as I can get for thermal resistance.
I also have ASA. A bit from PRusament, a bunch from Inland (Microcenter) and a couple of rolls from 3DXTECH.
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I highly suggest the ASA from 3DXTECH, over the Inland. They have glass fiber filled, so you can get better printing and final properties. Plus, their fiber doesn’t ‘snap’/break like the Inland stuff does. Feels like Inland skimps on additives like an AO.
Most machines can go to 300C or close enough for PETG. PA should work too, at least some grades. Getting adhesion to the bed is one issue,. The main on for this project is that it is bigger than most print beds, that is why I print it on the XL. It could proabably be printed in parts.
there is the max 256mm. Otherwise I have to print it on my cr-10 in less good quality.
