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Gren failed to start

ECrider

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Not sure if right section to post in but think it's electrical/software based perhaps.

Last night I had a problem starting my car.

I collected my car after warranty/recall work from agent in Kent yesterday afternoon. It had had some bolts re-torqued, secondary nuts put on the drop links, steering straightened and software update to version xxxx1946.

Drove to pub 20mins down the road, had a few beers, came out after a few hours, jumped in and the dreaded happened.

Starter motor turning over (not the deadmans solenoid click of not enough voltage). Horrible sound. Starter motor was clicking over and over but did not fire ip the engine. Gave this a go several times, same thing. Bugger and queue usual embarrassment in a pub car park that I have had when owned Land Rovers and they played up.

Got out, locked it up, waited for screen to turn off, opened it up, got in, started first time like normal. Got home, turned it on/off a few times. No problem.

So, never ever had a problem starting the car before and have had it since last September.

First trip back to an agent.

Battery was showing 92%.

On the electrical screen it was jumping around charging from 2v-25v a lot and discharging a bit. Lot more active than pre-software date.

Will log with agent but seems computer linked or maybe immobiliser, maybe software????

But the on/off reset something which I presume is not mechanical.

Thoughts on a postcard to:

It was bloody fine before you touched it

East Sussex
 

Eric

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Not sure if right section to post in but think it's electrical/software based perhaps.

Last night I had a problem starting my car.

I collected my car after warranty/recall work from agent in Kent yesterday afternoon. It had had some bolts re-torqued, secondary nuts put on the drop links, steering straightened and software update to version xxxx1946.

Drove to pub 20mins down the road, had a few beers, came out after a few hours, jumped in and the dreaded happened.

Starter motor turning over (not the deadmans solenoid click of not enough voltage). Horrible sound. Starter motor was clicking over and over but did not fire ip the engine. Gave this a go several times, same thing. Bugger and queue usual embarrassment in a pub car park that I have had when owned Land Rovers and they played up.

Got out, locked it up, waited for screen to turn off, opened it up, got in, started first time like normal. Got home, turned it on/off a few times. No problem.

So, never ever had a problem starting the car before and have had it since last September.

First trip back to an agent.

Battery was showing 92%.

On the electrical screen it was jumping around charging from 2v-25v a lot and discharging a bit. Lot more active than pre-software date.

Will log with agent but seems computer linked or maybe immobiliser, maybe software????

But the on/off reset something which I presume is not mechanical.

Thoughts on a postcard to:

It was bloody fine before you touched it

East Sussex
I wonder did they dis- connect the battery for any of their work. How far did you drive after collecting it. I thought/understood/ read that others had initial software issues when the battery had been disconnected.
 

ECrider

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I wonder did they dis- connect the battery for any of their work. How far did you drive after collecting it. I thought/understood/ read that others had initial software issues when the battery had been disconnected.
50mins back home, no stops. Sat on drive for an hour or so. Drove to petrol station 10mins, no problems, then pub for a few hours.
 

Tom D

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The on board battery indicator is not particularly accurate. Mine was dead the other morning after 4 days of not being driven. The battery was down to 3 volts. I charged it and then took it to the dealer the dealer computer said battery was knackered. The car said it had 90%.

There’s a lot with bad batteries as many have sat around at the dealer for too long before collection. Mine especially.
 

ECrider

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Definitely seemed like there was enough juice but I will run a multimeter across it. Just seemed like the reset on/off cleared something
 

acwiltshire

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The on board battery indicator is not particularly accurate. Mine was dead the other morning after 4 days of not being driven. The battery was down to 3 volts. I charged it and then took it to the dealer the dealer computer said battery was knackered. The car said it had 90%.

There’s a lot with bad batteries as many have sat around at the dealer for too long before collection. Mine especially.
Mine was due for a new battery before i rejected the whole car !
 

Jean Mercier

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... Drove to pub 20mins down the road, had a few beers, came out after a few hours, jumped in and the dreaded happened.

Starter motor turning over (not the deadmans solenoid click of not enough voltage). Horrible sound. Starter motor was clicking over and over but did not fire ip the engine. Gave this a go several times, same thing. Bugger and queue usual embarrassment in a pub car park that I have had when owned Land Rovers and they played up.

Got out, locked it up, waited for screen to turn off, opened it up, got in, started first time like normal. Got home, turned it on/off a few times. No problem.
I had probably the same problem in September last year, see my post here: https://www.theineosforum.com/threa...cal-gremlins.12411996/page-54#post-1333212449
(with some explanation what I did and a sound file).

It never happened again.
 

ECrider

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Tazzieman

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Intermittent electrical problems are a PITA.
Usually it's the last thing somebody did.
Such as not torque up an earth cable , or fiddle with a fuse, connector etc.
 

ECrider

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Intermittent electrical problems are a PITA.
Usually it's the last thing somebody did.
Such as not torque up an earth cable , or fiddle with a fuse, connector etc.
yep, indeed. Was bloody fine before. Sun out now so going to cast any eye over the cabling, fuses, relays and plug it into the charger for good measure. Will run a multimeter over both batteries as well.
 

ECrider

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Tried lifting off the brake pedal last night while the starter was flying around in the hope it knocked something back into play. no dice, just shut the starter off and then you had to turn ignition off and on again.

Both batteries 12.85-12.95v so all dandy there this morn. Now on the charger for good measure.

Pushed all relays, fuses and tested -ve cables and the rest. All seems as it should.

Couldn't get to the ones under the reservoir in the engine bay, what a shit position.
 

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TD5-90

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Tried lifting off the brake pedal last night while the starter was flying around in the hope it knocked something back into play. no dice, just shut the starter off and then you had to turn ignition off and on again.

Both batteries 12.85-12.95v so all dandy there this morn. Now on the charger for good measure.

Pushed all relays, fuses and tested -ve cables and the rest. All seems as it should.

Couldn't get to the ones under the reservoir in the engine bay, what a shit position.
I would (as usual...) recommend checking the chassis ground connections/braids, see e.g. here . There are more in the vehicle (e.g. body to chassis), but this one is the only one to connect engine/transmission to chassis and caused quite some trouble to me.
In the simplest case check if all battery terminals are firmely seated & fixed. If they fiddled around with the batteries at service: Well justified...
 

ECrider

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Skydance

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My take is it’s all software. Occasionally I get all sorts of warnings (despite have latest 1946 software) but disappears on the next start up. Sometimes happens after you reset the battery or pressed reset mute button. This was recently after a 2 hour drive. I took these pictures to show the dealer as proof. Imagine driving round with mph error 🤣
 

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