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I made the mistake of softly closing the bonnet and now the drivers side (RHD) wont unlatch and open.
Twice is very poor performance . Should be at least 99 before changing handsalways tug twice otherwise poor performance
Tug twice is the appropriate processalways tug twice otherwise poor performance
It sounds like an adjustment problem , unless the latch is somehow damaged.Found it I think? Need to try it more often just to be sure this trick is the correct one. With the bonnet locked, pull the lever until you feel the first step of the unlocking procedure, pull gently just until you hear it unlock. Do not pull further. Then release the handle and pull the second time. Then the bonnet jumps open....
(Edit) Just tried that multiple times, but not really the key to succes. Sometimes it works, mostly it doesn't
Mine still not working. Dealer reckons it could take days to get it working. Not a great system.Again struggling with my bonnet. I want to fill up the high pressure side of the heating, as I did a cooling bleeding system last week. (Also after struggling with the bonnet) After the bleeding procedure, I noticed that the reservoir was almost empty. But I didn’t had the cooling liquid. Now that I have,…. I want to fill that up, but the bonnet isn’t cooperating.
The first pull, no problem. But it doesn’t work with the second pull. There is no resistance in the handle. Also after the first pull only one side of the bonnet is unlocked. That’s probably the reason it won’t let me go to the second stage.
Did anyone else already found a solution for this problem?
Last week I just drove around with the bonnet open, ”Et voila” I could pull a second time and the release system was working again. This time “nada, nothing noppes” That trick doesn’t seems to work twice. :-(
If you're tugging more than twice, you're playing with it.Twice is very poor performance . Should be at least 99 before changing hands
I got warned to keep it PG so should youIf you're tugging more than twice, you're playing with it.
Luckily , it's an old school mechanical mechanismSometimes it helps if a second person presses the hood a little bit down, as the lock is under tension which can make unlocking difficult...
AWo
NOOOO!!! I can't believe that. I assume there is a software problem which is fixed with the next update. The dealer should read the error memory. Mechanical mechanisms...pfff......we're not in the 20th century anymoreLuckily , it's an old school mechanical mechanism
You do know with the double pull it's twice as complex as my 1978 911NOOOO!!! I can't believe that. I assume there is a software problem which is fixed with the next update. The dealer shoul read the error memory. Mechanical mechanisms...pfff......we're not in the 20th century anymore
AWo
I have no clue about that car but I assume, it is an enourmous amount of fun to drive it. Turbo? No, 1978 there was no turbo, right? I only know about the unlocking mechanism of my 1971 Land Rover Series 2a. But I must confess, it is also a mechanism where you need to act twice, as it has two of these locks.You do know with the double pull it's twice as complex as my 1978 911
Turbo was around from 1975. But they have terrible turbo lag. I wanted mechanical simplicity and small repair bills!I have no clue about that car but I assume, it is an enourmous amount of fun to drive it. Turbo? No, 1978 there was no turbo, right? I only know about the unlocking mechanism of my 1971 Land Rover Series 2a. But I must confess, it is also a mechanism where you need to act twice, as it has two of these locks.
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AWo
Oooof the 3.0L turbo death machine....Turbo was around from 1975. But they have terrible turbo lag.