Removing the underseat trim panels / accessing or removing the batteries

DCPU · Jul 5, 2023

Not sure it needs many words, it's simple to do. Remove floor mats, undo screws indicated by red circles and nuts indicated by green rectangles:

DCPU · Jul 5, 2023

It's a similar arrangement for the auxiliary battery (if fitted)

:

DCPU · Jul 5, 2023

One issue...to remove the remaining back trim panels means removing the M10 bolts (seems unsuitably large for a trim retaining fastener?) indicated here. However, some are located under the rear seat base and are not accessible in an N1. Clearly if the seat base was 70mm to the rear then these bolts would be directly accessible.

This is quite a compromise in the N1, as key fuse boxes (inline fuse for auxiliary battery and auxiliary high load fuses/relays) are not easily accessible without removing this panel.

ADVAW8S · Jul 5, 2023

@DCPU Your about to lose another pin from the drain.

DCPU · Jul 5, 2023

Yes - 100% failure rate

anand · Jul 6, 2023

DCPU said:
One issue...to remove the remaining back trim panels means removing the M10 bolts (seems unsuitably large for a trim retaining fastener?) indicated here. However, some are located under the rear seat base and are not accessible in an N1. Clearly if the seat base was 70mm to the rear then these bolts would be directly accessible.

One thing to note, even in a non-N1 those rear bolts are PITA and blocked from large tool access due to the brace/cross bracket of the rear seat structure. The trick is a 90º Torx key or a wobble bit

DCPU · Jul 6, 2023

anand said:
One thing to note, even in a non-N1 those rear bolts are PITA and blocked from large tool access due to the brace/cross bracket of the rear seat structure. The trick is a 90º Torx key or a wobble bit

Thanks ~ I'm at the agents later this week and want to check out the M1s on this matter. If access is reasonable, it adds another reason to move the seats back.

I'm struggling to understand why they are M10 though?

Jean Mercier · Jul 6, 2023

ADVAW8S said:
@DCPU Your about to lose another pin from the drain.

I can send @DCPU one of my NOT stainless nails for free to repair it, with instruction manual

anand · Jul 6, 2023

DCPU said:
I'm struggling to understand why they are M10 though?

I wondered the same thing the first time I looked at them

DCPU · Jul 6, 2023

Or indeed if the rear set of bolts are actually needed at all?

It may rattle a bit, but a layer of foam or foam pads could stop that.

anand · Jul 6, 2023

DCPU said:
It may rattle a bit, but a layer of foam or foam pads could stop that.

100% I don't see why that wouldn't work

DCPU · Jul 7, 2023

DCPU said:
Thanks ~ I'm at the agents later this week and want to check out the M1s on this matter. If access is reasonable, it adds another reason to move the seats back.

I'm struggling to understand why they are M10 though?

Managed to find an M1 to compare access to the rear M10 bolts:

DCPU · Jul 16, 2023

anand said:
One thing to note, even in a non-N1 those rear bolts are PITA and blocked from large tool access due to the brace/cross bracket of the rear seat structure. The trick is a 90º Torx key or a wobble bit

I ended up getting this set:

and the T50 was perfect to remove the 2 bolts to take out the trim panel that covers the main 7 way Littel fuse box:

It's a bit of a wiggle to get the panel out, but I'm not sure it's going back in again...

So now it's actually possible to access the main fuse box off the main/starter battery:

DCPU · Jul 16, 2023

And using a small inspection mirror (very carefully!) I read the fuse values, usefully hidden under the cables:

DCPU · Jul 26, 2023

So in trying to remove the final section of trim I managed to get the spanner and bolt jammed in under the seat:

So it was out with the seat bolts and flip it forward to recover the spanner. I think if I was removing the trim again this is the way I would start:

As mentioned by others, the bolts are very tight and have been threadlocked. I found the centre bolts adjacent to the handbrake adjustment mechanism particulary difficult to remove and had to resort to a big impact wrench to get them to move:

Solves the "mystery" of the two domed bolts, as they don't need removing to move the seat base, they appear to just be locating dowels to align the base with the bolt holes:

The drop from the rear loadspace height to the footwell level is very evident:

DCPU · Jul 26, 2023

So with decent access at last, it's easier to trace most of the key wiring.

Auxiliary battery positive:

Into the Littelfuse inline fusebox

and fused at 300A:

and running into the Smartpass service battery outlet:

I'm not sure this is that clear, but my workings on how the main and auxiliary battery are wired into the Smartpass (blue line), 350A supply for the rear NATO socket (green line) & 80A supply to the auxiliary fusebox (green line). The latter being more of a guess as the cable is bound into the loom and so not possible to trace 100%:

The other main positive supply coming off the main battery is sheathed in black convoluted tube in some of the photos and disappears down the right hand side of the gearbox tunnel heading for the engine bay. It does not appear to be fused in the immediate vicinity.

Tomdoc · Jul 26, 2023

Great job. Does everyone have two mystery connectors just flapping in the breeze either side of the CTEK? I have them - wrapped in spongy foam stuff it seems - like small molex in fact I see one in your picture here just to the right of the obvious INEOS sticker: Maybe as I have a basic model it's powering something I don't have!!

https://www.theineosforum.com/attachments/img_20230726_112124692-jpg.7821295/

Logsplitter · Jul 26, 2023

DCPU said:
So with decent access at last, it's easier to trace most of the key wiring.

Auxiliary battery positive:
View attachment 7821290 View attachment 7821291

Into the Littelfuse inline fusebox
View attachment 7821293 View attachment 7821295
and fused at 300A:
View attachment 7821296
and running into the Smartpass service battery outlet:
View attachment 7821297

I'm not sure this is that clear, but my workings on how the main and auxiliary battery are wired into the Smartpass (blue line), 350A supply for the rear NATO socket (green line) & 80A supply to the auxiliary fusebox (green line). The latter being more of a guess as the cable is bound into the loom and so not possible to trace 100%:
View attachment 7821298

The other main positive supply coming off the main battery is sheathed in black convoluted tube in some of the photos and disappears down the right hand side of the gearbox tunnel heading for the engine bay. It does not appear to be fused in the immediate vicinity.

So so you think that your wiring set up is the same as all others as I have the dual battery , high load and auxiliary socket set up, but at one point you thought maybe your vehicle was wired differently although that was before you could get full access to your battery box.

Logsplitter · Jul 26, 2023

Tomdoc said:
Great job. Does everyone have two mystery connectors just flapping in the breeze either side of the CTEK? I have them - wrapped in spongy foam stuff it seems - like small molex in fact I see one in your picture here just to the right of the obvious INEOS sticker: Maybe as I have a basic model it's powering something I don't have!!

https://www.theineosforum.com/attachments/img_20230726_112124692-jpg.7821295/

Yes I have the same connectors and have optioned dual battery , high load /winch , auxiliary sockets etc.

DCPU · Jul 26, 2023

Tomdoc said:
Great job. Does everyone have two mystery connectors just flapping in the breeze either side of the CTEK? I have them - wrapped in spongy foam stuff it seems - like small molex in fact I see one in your picture here just to the right of the obvious INEOS sticker: Maybe as I have a basic model it's powering something I don't have!!

https://www.theineosforum.com/attachments/img_20230726_112124692-jpg.7821295/

I think they connect to the seat belts and are supposed to alarm if disconnected whilst moving.

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