Here I thought that the US has become to regulatory... y'all need a little tea party to get your government back in line.
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I think we are well passed that, you live in freedom over there whilst we live in chains.Here I thought that the US has become to regulatory... y'all need a little tea party to get your government back in line.
My understanding on my vehicle is that the support bars are attached to the metal bumper which is surrounded by the existing plastic bumper so the pedestrian safety aspect has not changed
.without these additional bumper support bars the radiators will fall out on corrugated roads as myself Annie and others have found. Ineos ought to own the problem and modify the early European spec vehicles but if they don’t then sort yourself a fix before going on a a long and remote expedition
Here is the RH bracket on my 9/2024 production NA spec.Help from our Antipodean , Southern African and American friends may be required for this one. As U.K. and far as I’m aware European vehicles are not fitted with this part then maybe someone from these regions could go into their friendly dealership and get the part number.
Do the latest European vehicles have different mounting brackets or the additional support bars fitted to them![]()
That’s exactly what I did appart from I didn’t have stainless steel zip ties. I used some fencing wire to tie both clamps together which worked for many thousands of kilometres until a proper fix.
Yesterday I picked a roll of stainless steel band clamp with end fittings so can make my own jubilee clips /steel zip ties.
Or the Top Gear kit which consisted of vasalein, viagra, condom and tampax.That’s what it’s all about. You’ll never have the right part with you if you take spares, so bits and pieces for a Macgyver fix is the way to go. Wire, cable ties, bicycle inner tube , epoxy resin, silicone sealant and section of nuts,bolts,screws etc. You just have to spot any issues before you get a major problem if you can. Easier said than done as I didn’t realise my transfer box cables were rubbing on the prop shaft until too late.
That’s what it’s all about. You’ll never have the right part with you if you take spares, so bits and pieces for a Macgyver fix is the way to go. Wire, cable ties, bicycle inner tube , epoxy resin, silicone sealant and section of nuts,bolts,screws etc. You just have to spot any issues before you get a major problem if you can. Easier said than done as I didn’t realise my transfer box cables were rubbing on the prop shaft until too late.
Do you have the same on the LHS?Here is the RH bracket on my 9/2024 production NA spec.
EDIT: Steel factory bumper.
View attachment 7890574
View attachment 7890575
Never underestimate the power of a coathanger!That’s what it’s all about. You’ll never have the right part with you if you take spares, so bits and pieces for a Macgyver fix is the way to go. Wire, cable ties, bicycle inner tube , epoxy resin, silicone sealant and section of nuts,bolts,screws etc. You just have to spot any issues before you get a major problem if you can. Easier said than done as I didn’t realise my transfer box cables were rubbing on the prop shaft until too late.
Why not just use Loctite so they will never back out?Adding this pic because it shows detail of the back of the transfer case cooler (left side wing), the cooler hoses and mounts and part of the support strut underneath. This MY23 vehicle belongs to an Australian modifier and YouTuber and has been worked hard.
You can clearly see in this pic that there is not a lot of protrusion of the studs through the grommets. With such little engagement it's not hard to visualise the cooler becoming dislodged due to vertical loads like corrugations which is where @Logsplitter and @Annee Grenadier_girl have had problems.
In lieu of those support struts which may be hard to obtain and fit in other markets, a pair of heavy duty stainless steel zip ties wrapped around each mount would encase the cooler within the mounts without impacting maintenance or cooling. Part of heavy offroad/remote trip prep perhaps.
The cooler may still pop out of the grommets but it won't fall out of the mounting frame and cause further damage.
Personally I'd like to see those cooler studs extend further through the grommets, although it's a C frame mount so there are clearance constraints, and the rigidity of the mounting frame increased either by forming or a revised material spec.
It's been proven to be a vulnerable area and hopefully IA have made a note for product improvement.
View attachment 7890662
Use Loctite where? The mounting studs are a push fit into the grommets. You could also call them pegs or posts.Why not just use Loctite so they will never back out?
Exactly. But in my experience if you have these rads off then glue the grommets in place as the rad rattles around without them and at £18+ each for a rubber grommet they are very expensive to replace. I used gorilla glue to glue them in placeUse Loctite where? The mounting studs are a push fit into the grommets. You could also call them pegs or posts.