Steps added to factory rock sliders

[Robert T]

I had a local welder fabricate some nerf bars/steps for the factory rock sliders. I had something similar on my LR4 and really missed having the step on the Ineos sliders.

After preparing/cleaning the bare metal I just painted them with a few coats of primer and rustoleum paint. I painted over the original powder coating too after some sanding and cleaning. The factory powder coat is extremely thin with a lot of chips and nicks from only 1700 miles of driving. From past experience when sliders get used the powder coating gets scratched off so it will be easy to touch up any scrapes and scratches with paint to prevent rusting.

 

[Stu_Barnes]

Clean and simple. I like it. I’m in the same boat with side steps, hopefully I’ll have some soon. The ones in the LR/disco 4 really spoiled me.

 

[Robert T]

Thanks. In hindsight, if I were doing this again, I would use aluminum diamond plate and secure it with screws or rivnuts. That would allow better rust protection on the 1" square tube because it could be painted on the top before installing the diamond plate. I sprayed some fluid film on the understand and also between the diamond plate and 1" tube so hopefully that will prevent rusting.

 

[Mountain4x4]

Not a fan of steps to hang you up. But this has got to be the lowest profile step in history. Excellent work.

 

[Zimm]

Perfect for the height challenged, and more importantly a few more inches of stand off from objects never hurts.

 

[MileHigh]

Is there any kind a version of this where they are attached with removable bolts so that for the majority of the time when we’re driving around town my wife can get in and out, but when I’m going to go up in the hills, I can take them off? or leave them on and replace them if they get jacked up?

 

[Robert T]

Is there any kind a version of this where they are attached with removable bolts so that for the majority of the time when we’re driving around town my wife can get in and out, but when I’m going to go up in the hills, I can take them off? or leave them on and replace them if they get jacked up?

Not sure why you would want to take them off. They don't reduce clearance and provide additional side protection from large rocks or tree stumps.

 

[MileHigh]

It seems that for for any 4x I’ve owned (Jeep, 4Runner) there are steps and there are rock rails. The step parts don’t seem to have the strength of the rock rail. Your’s are pretty low profile, robust and attached well, so the step part will act like a rail?

Or is it that most steps, aren’t built to rail strength standards, and drop below any kind of rail position so they will either bend or get caught?

Why wouldn’t Ineos offer a version of your set up?

 

[Robert T]

It seems that for for any 4x I’ve owned (Jeep, 4Runner) there are steps and there are rock rails. The step parts don’t seem to have the strength of the rock rail. Your’s are pretty low profile, robust and attached well, so the step part will act like a rail?

Or is it that most steps, aren’t built to rail strength standards, and drop below any kind of rail position so they will either bend or get caught?

Why wouldn’t Ineos offer a version of your set up?

Yes, they are designed to act like a rock rail/nerf bar as well as a step. I had something similar on my LR4 and they held up to a lot of rocks so hopefully these will as well.

I agree, Ineos should have offered their rock sliders with steps but there may be local laws in other countries regarding side protrusions or something....who knows..

 

[Steve.B]

I made some easily removable steps on ineos factory rock sliders the day of delivery, and so far so good.
I used 2 x 48mm x 1.5m mat black and galvanised fencing tubes from bunnings $20.00 each, 4 temporary fencing clamps each side $5.00 each from a temporary fencing place, 4 plastic end plugs $1.90 each from Stratco, and a can of mat black paint $9.50 from Repco. Will post some pictures tonight they don't sit as far out as the factory brush bars, and the fencing clamps although parralel connection's match the brush bar to roo bar connection's.
Very quick and easy to remove, but you need to firmly tighten the bolts.
I baught a spare tube as they were so cheep and a couple of spare temporary fencing clamps. 5 minute job to remove.

 

[Korg]

I made some easily removable steps on ineos factory rock sliders the day of delivery, and so far so good.
I used 2 x 48mm x 1.5m mat black and galvanised fencing tubes from bunnings $20.00 each, 4 temporary fencing clamps each side $5.00 each from a temporary fencing place, 4 plastic end plugs $1.90 each from Stratco, and a can of mat black paint $9.50 from Repco. Will post some pictures tonight they don't sit as far out as the factory brush bars, and the fencing clamps although parralel connection's match the brush bar to roo bar connection's.
Very quick and easy to remove, but you need to firmly tighten the bolts.
I baught a spare tube as they were so cheep and a couple of spare temporary fencing clamps. 5 minute job to remove.

Photos please.

 

[LC0013]

Photos would be a big help and thanks in advance for posting them.

 

[Steve.B]

Sorry I was a bit late with the photos, my old 92.2kg 203lb Irish Wolfhound Roland always likes to get in the action, the ARB compressors are mounted above rock slider and chassis height, they are waterproof, and mounted to a bash plate pictured, I made the loom, and the air intake is in the engine bay along with the air outlet, power supply etc.
The tyres are 295/70r17 Yokahama Geolander's on Black Rhino Yellowstone rims 38+, and Eibach aftermarket springs.

 

[SkiBum1]

I had a local welder fabricate some nerf bars/steps for the factory rock sliders. I had something similar on my LR4 and really missed having the step on the Ineos sliders.

After preparing/cleaning the bare metal I just painted them with a few coats of primer and rustoleum paint. I painted over the original powder coating too after some sanding and cleaning. The factory powder coat is extremely thin with a lot of chips and nicks from only 1700 miles of driving. From past experience when sliders get used the powder coating gets scratched off so it will be easy to touch up any scrapes and scratches with paint to prevent rusting.

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That is a really cool solution. I find myself jumping up into my Grenadier. I have rock sliders as well. I kind of jump up, thinking I don’t want to wear out the seat cushion bolster on the door side of the seat by pushing into it all the time. This is a good solution.

I don’t give a damn about the passengers…. It isnt their kick ass ride.

 

[Clark Kent]

Sorry I was a bit late with the photos, my old 92.2kg 203lb Irish Wolfhound Roland always likes to get in the action, the ARB compressors are mounted above rock slider and chassis height, they are waterproof, and mounted to a bash plate pictured, I made the loom, and the air intake is in the engine bay along with the air outlet, power supply etc.
The tyres are 295/70r17 Yokahama Geolander's on Black Rhino Yellowstone rims 38+, and Eibach aftermarket springs.

Nice work @Steve.B

Roland makes your Grenadier look small. Are the Eibachs so he doesn't hit his head getting in?

 

[Craig]

Sorry I was a bit late with the photos, my old 92.2kg 203lb Irish Wolfhound Roland always likes to get in the action, the ARB compressors are mounted above rock slider and chassis height, they are waterproof, and mounted to a bash plate pictured, I made the loom, and the air intake is in the engine bay along with the air outlet, power supply etc.
The tyres are 295/70r17 Yokahama Geolander's on Black Rhino Yellowstone rims 38+, and Eibach aftermarket springs.

Good idea - We’ll done

 

[Reducs]

Sorry I was a bit late with the photos, my old 92.2kg 203lb Irish Wolfhound Roland always likes to get in the action, the ARB compressors are mounted above rock slider and chassis height, they are waterproof, and mounted to a bash plate pictured, I made the loom, and the air intake is in the engine bay along with the air outlet, power supply etc.
The tyres are 295/70r17 Yokahama Geolander's on Black Rhino Yellowstone rims 38+, and Eibach aftermarket springs.

Are they friction fit only? Is there anything to prevent rotation if a real lard a$$ steps on them?

 

[Zimm]

Sorry I was a bit late with the photos, my old 92.2kg 203lb Irish Wolfhound Roland always likes to get in the action, the ARB compressors are mounted above rock slider and chassis height, they are waterproof, and mounted to a bash plate pictured, I made the loom, and the air intake is in the engine bay along with the air outlet, power supply etc.
The tyres are 295/70r17 Yokahama Geolander's on Black Rhino Yellowstone rims 38+, and Eibach aftermarket springs.

Is that conduit and conduit straps? If this is going to be dirt road only, maybe. But as soon at that 5700lb truck makes grazing contact with a solid object, they are gonna get torn off and be a hell of a damage multiplier. Do they make any hollow tube noise and resonate and any speeds, like blowing into a coke bottle? Seriously though, take those off in a controlled fashion, before they come off in an uncontrolled fashion.

 

[chrsbe]

Sorry I was a bit late with the photos, my old 92.2kg 203lb Irish Wolfhound Roland always likes to get in the action, the ARB compressors are mounted above rock slider and chassis height, they are waterproof, and mounted to a bash plate pictured, I made the loom, and the air intake is in the engine bay along with the air outlet, power supply etc.
The tyres are 295/70r17 Yokahama Geolander's on Black Rhino Yellowstone rims 38+, and Eibach aftermarket springs.

Where did you mount these compressors? Could you please provide pictures?

 

[Steve.B]

Are they friction fit only? Is there anything to prevent rotation if a real lard a$$ steps on them?

Yes friction fit, have done 2 people jumping on them test and they do not move.