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No screen and multiple alarms - Final update - 18NOV24

jucumari

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My screen has gone blank, multiple lights and alarms sounding.
2024 trialmaster with aux battery system; 4670 miles; 4 hours from dealer; no software update; no problems with grenadier until this.

Four days ago we had a light rain. That afternoon I got into the car and noticed some wetness in the overhead liner (Picture 1 - damp overhead liner).

IMG_0289.jpg


I also saw some drips from the overhead (Picture 2- water droplets).

IMG_E5B4427165FA-1.jpeg


I dried the area and inspected the roof and saw no issues. Yesterday, I drove the Grenadier and a few minutes into the drive, I noticed that the right side of the infotainment screen changed color, then the same side of the screen began to flash between black and this purple color (Picture 3-purple info screen).
IMG_0295.jpg


I decided to head back given the issue and within about 5 minutes, the entire screen went fully blank and stayed that way, and multiple telltale lights came on, beeps started, and the turn signals were only functioning intermittently (Photo 4 - telltale while driving)
IMG_2945B57CE24D-1.jpeg


I looked on the forum and, in the manual for any ideas. I tried the mute button reset (30-sec hold) and it did nothing. I tried disconnecting the battery per the manual's instructions (disconnect ground from battery connector, negative from auxiliary battery, then negative from primary battery). I waited 10 minutes, then reconnected all in reverse order. Waited another 10 minutes. Turned key to activate the battery and multiple alarms still showing and lights flashing including locker lights, lights behind vent and hvac controls knob, and interior lighting. Started vehicle, and had continued multiple telltale alerts, constant seatbelt chiming, lights flashing. I shut down grenadier and waited overnight. Today, a half start showed multiple [but different] telltale lights and no screen - entirely black, no gauges, speed, etc. - (Photo 5 - half start telltale).

View attachment IMG_0306.jpg

I started the grenadier and got similar lights and more on the telltale. The seatbelt alarm was also constantly alarming. The lights that were flashing yesterday we no longer flashing (Photo 6 - full start).

IMG_A50812503BCF-1.jpeg


I shut off the grenadier and took the key out, and locked the door, the seatbelt chime was still alarming inside. I reinserted the key, turned halfway, and then turned back off and seatbelt chime stopped.



UPDATE 30OCT24

The day of the original post, the Grenadier alarm started going off in the middle of the night for about 4 minutes, then shut off on its own. The next morning, I tried to start the Grenadier, and there was no electrical power and therefore would not start.

After a call to the dealer, and thanks to other forum suggestions, I scheduled a tow with INEOS Roadside Assistance (+1-866-882-6411). Nearest dealer (RTGT Ineos, Wilsonville Oregon) is 183 miles from me. Ineos roadside assistance covers the first 100 miles. For the other 83 miles, I paid US$784.00.

When the tow truck arrived today, a new set of issues emerged.

The car has no electrical, so no way to shift into Neutral to be put on a flatbed tow truck. I called the dealer who suggested to jump start the battery in order to have power and shift into neutral. I followed the owner's manual instructions to jump start the battery. This did not work, no power was on in the vehicle, and there was no ability to start the vehicle or shift into Neutral.

I called the dealer again and mentioned that the owner's manual has another method listed to place the vehicle in Neutral (turning bolt underneath vehicle [the tool needed is in the included vehicle tool kit]). The dealer mentioned that they had not faced this before. They nicely had one of their techs take a picture under a grenadier showing the location of the bolt and texted this to me. Simultaneously I reviewed any online information about this issue and all posts on this forum with potential information on this. I reviewed the following Forum posts:

Procedure to shift into Neutral with a dead battery (fiddly but doable) | The Grenadier Forum (theineosforum.com)
Had to have vehicle towed today - editing title - found out not Ineos' fault! | The Grenadier Forum (theineosforum.com)
Grenadier won't move after engaging/disengaging neutral bolt | The Grenadier Forum (theineosforum.com)
Neutral bolt, help needed | The Grenadier Forum (theineosforum.com)
panne démarrage (Startup failure) | The Grenadier Forum (theineosforum.com)

The dealer said to turn the bolt clockwise until it "bottomed out." The owner's manual said to move the transfer case lever to a position between HIGH/LOW before turning the bolt. Forum posts varied on the transfer case movement and the pictures of service manuals on some forum posts did not match my service manual; I downloaded the service manual from the Ineos website and this version also did not match my manual. I decided to follow what my manual (included with the vehicle) said.

I tried to move the transfer case into a position between HIGH/LOW. There was some slight movement downwards. Whether or not this was fully accomplished is unknown because there is no electronic display to confirm. There was no feeling, locking, clunking, or other input to my hand that made it feel like anything had moved or shifted into another setting. I then used the tool to turn the bolt clockwise (there is a small arrow beside the bolt that indicates to turn clockwise). I turned the bolt until it became difficult and eventually was unable to turn any further. The tow truck driver confirmed and was also unable to turn further. This should have manually put the vehicle into Neutral. I lowered the parking brake, turned the key halfway (as indicated in manual), closed the door and the car would not move and was not in Neutral. I tried again with the key in the ignition, but not halfway turned. I tried again with the key out of the ignition. The doors were firmly shut. Again, no movement. Note that the steering wheel was also unlocked this entire time.

I called the dealer who "haven't heard or seen this before" and let them know that none of the methods had worked. They had no additional suggestions and told me to work with the tow company to get it to them.

I then reversed the procedure - I followed the manual instructions to place the bolt back into the original position (bolt flush with case). After turning counterclockwise for some number of turns, the bolt felt flush with the face, the bolt looked flush with the face, and the bolt was unable to turn any further (also confirmed by tow truck driver). The shifter was moved back to the HIGH setting (again only a small bit of movement upwards) where it was originally. Whether or not this was fully accomplished is unknown because there is no electronic display to confirm. There was no feeling, locking, clunking, or other input to my hand that made it feel like anything had moved or shifted into another setting. According to the manual and my process, the vehicle was now back in its original state. As a check, we could not move the vehicle at this point either.

By now (2.5 hours from start), the tow truck driver had called his supervisor who had also showed up. Both of their suggestions were to slide the vehicle a few feet onto the truck using their chains/winch. The Grenadier was sitting on concrete. Obviously, the wheels were not rolling freely and this vehicle is quite heavy. I expressed my reticence at just dragging it onto the truck but was told by the towing crew that since it had to travel so far and go through some serious mountain passes, that having it on the flatbed was the best option. They proceeded to put some lubricant onto the ground behind the wheels and some lubricant on the truck bed. They then used the winch and hauled it up onto the truck and secured it.

I did not like watching the Grenadier scrape across the driveway and try to resist being pulled onto the truck.

The Grenadier is now in route to the dealer for assessment. I will cross-post a link to this post on all of the forum posts I reviewed for help in case other people end up in the same position. I will continue to update this post as the situation changes.

UPDATE 08NOV24

After 9 days I received a notification that the Grenadier was repaired and ready for pickup. Update from service manager was the following:

-The primary battery was non-functional and was replaced by INEOS. This battery issue caused voltage issues and likely resulted in the electrical issues I experienced. This particular service department had not seen this issue before.
-Software updates were performed (purchased in May '24 so it had whatever version of software that was).
-The seals around the Safari windows were replaced. The leaking issue observed resulted from the factory seals. This was an issue they had seen previously on a few Grenadiers.

Determining how to get the Grenadier back now - was $784 with INEOS roadside assistance to get it there, hoping to find a way to get it back that doesn't require as much of a cost.

FINAL UPDATE 18NOV24

The dealer asked INEOS to pay to have the car sent back to me. They declined. Dealer reported that they escalated the request at INEOS. They declined again. So I took a day off work, got transportation and travelled 4 hours to the dealer to pick up the vehicle.

The dealer report says they performed the following on the Grenadier:

-Installed new rooftop seals to fix leak
-Replaced main battery
-Performed fault code read out test, found code P193203, Fuel level, plausibility deviation between consumption and level change. Document IATSB003368v2 and performed updates to control modules (DME, SCM, RVC, ASM, ESC, and Gateway control module).
-Washed the vehicle exterior

The Grenadier is driving fine and all issues seem to be remedied. However, I've noticed that since I picked it up, the door buttons on the door handles are all sticking when pushed in and require some rattling or movement to get them pop back out. I read a few posts on the forum from others who suggested various lubricant options or having dealer replace a part on each door (posts had various reports about success with this). I do not want to return to the dealer unless there is no other option. I used air to dry out the area on each door handle and then added some graphite power to each button. I then pressed each 30 times and open and closed each door 10 times (these numbers were arbitrary). No issues after 24 hours, buttons seem to be working like normal.

-END-
 
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anand

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I would drive it, as there doesn't seem to be any mechanical faults, and presumable the left side of the screen (gauges) is working appropriately...

Safe to say that an electronic component has failed, whether it is due to water ingress or not seems to be less important than getting it somewhere where it can be fixed
 

jucumari

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I would drive it, as there doesn't seem to be any mechanical faults, and presumable the left side of the screen (gauges) is working appropriately...

Safe to say that an electronic component has failed, whether it is due to water ingress or not seems to be less important than getting it somewhere where it can be fixed
Just to clarify - the entire screen is now blank - the gauges are not visible.
 

anand

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Just to clarify - the entire screen is now blank - the gauges are not visible.
If you're comfortable using your phone as a speedo or similar, I'd still drive it in lieu of the tow bill, but that's personal thought not official advice
 

Jean Mercier

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My screen has gone blank, multiple lights and alarms sounding.
2024 trialmaster with aux battery system; 4670 miles; 4 hours from dealer; no software update; no problems with grenadier until this.

Four days ago we had a light rain. That afternoon I got into the car and noticed some wetness in the overhead liner (Picture 1 - damp overhead liner).

View attachment 7874941

I also saw some drips from the overhead (Picture 2- water droplets).

View attachment 7874942

I dried the area and inspected the roof and saw no issues. Yesterday, I drove the Grenadier and a few minutes into the drive, I noticed that the right side of the infotainment screen changed color, then the same side of the screen began to flash between black and this purple color (Picture 3-purple info screen).
View attachment 7874943

I decided to head back given the issue and within about 5 minutes, the entire screen went fully blank and stayed that way, and multiple telltale lights came on, beeps started, and the turn signals were only functioning intermittently (Photo 4 - telltale while driving)
View attachment 7874944

I looked on the forum and, in the manual for any ideas. I tried the mute button reset (30-sec hold) and it did nothing. I tried disconnecting the battery per the manual's instructions (disconnect ground from battery connector, negative from auxiliary battery, then negative from primary battery). I waited 10 minutes, then reconnected all in reverse order. Waited another 10 minutes. Turned key to activate the battery and multiple alarms still showing and lights flashing including locker lights, lights behind vent and hvac controls knob, and interior lighting. Started vehicle, and had continued multiple telltale alerts, constant seatbelt chiming, lights flashing. I shut down grenadier and waited overnight. Today, a half start showed multiple [but different] telltale lights and no screen - entirely black, no gauges, speed, etc. - (Photo 5 - half start telltale).

View attachment 7874953

I started the grenadier and got similar lights and more on the telltale. The seatbelt alarm was also constantly alarming. The lights that were flashing yesterday we no longer flashing (Photo 6 - full start).

View attachment 7874946

I shut off the grenadier and took the key out, and locked the door, the seatbelt chime was still alarming inside. I reinserted the key, turned halfway, and then turned back off and seatbelt chime stopped.

Any ideas, guidance or help? Should I drive it to the dealer 4 hours away? Should I have it towed all the way there (~200 miles)? Is there something I can fix?
I tried to see if you have the safari windows, but even in the reflections I couldn't tell!

If you have them, this could be due to the gasket of the Safari windows that aren't glued as should be.
I had the same problem shortly after getting my car in May 2023. See my post here:

But lucky for me, it was (and still is) a 2023 model with no electronics on the roof and windscreen.
 

Skydance

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Just to clarify - the entire screen is now blank - the gauges are not visible.
If it’s blank. Then the dealer should get it towed back and offer you a courtesy car. It’s not safe to drive because you don’t know what speed you’re driving.
 

jucumari

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I tried to see if you have the safari windows, but even in the reflections I couldn't tell!

If you have them, this could be due to the gasket of the Safari windows that aren't glued as should be.
I had the same problem shortly after getting my car in May 2023. See my post here:

But lucky for me, it was (and still is) a 2023 model with no electronics on the roof and windscreen.
Thanks for telling me about your experience! It does have the safari windows. I called the dealer, and they suspect the windows may be the explanation as well.
 

jucumari

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If it’s blank. Then the dealer should get it towed back and offer you a courtesy car. It’s not safe to drive because you don’t know what speed you’re driving.
I agree - when driving it a short distance without the speedometer yesterday, I also realized there is no way to know how much fuel is in the tank either. I can't begin to tell you how annoying the constant seatbelt chiming is. It's like sitting in a box designed to torture you with sound.

We work with the dealer Monday to have it towed to the dealership and they will assess and hopefully fix the solution to the leak and electric.
 

Skydance

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I agree - when driving it a short distance without the speedometer yesterday, I also realized there is no way to know how much fuel is in the tank either. I can't begin to tell you how annoying the constant seatbelt chiming is. It's like sitting in a box designed to torture you with sound.

We work with the dealer Monday to have it towed to the dealership and they will assess and hopefully fix the solution to the leak and electric.
I feel the pain for you. Hope you get it fixed it soon.
 

Nocrays

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I hope things are progressing to sort out your problem.

A couple of months back I saw a customers vehicle being scull-dragged off the back of a flatbed truck at the dealership. Even once on the ground they struggled with getting in to neutral.

Its a shame that they have complicated what should should be a simple system.
 

jucumari

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Update posted on the original post.
TLDR - primary battery was malfunctioning, caused voltage issues. Primary battery replaced by INEOS. Performed software updates. Changed Safari window seals.

I thought that have the auxiliary battery system was supposed to provide redundancy for the primary - is that not how it works? Also, I paid a lot to have it towed there and don't want to have to pay again to get it towed back. Seems to me that since this was a warranty issue that rendered the car non-functional that INEOS (corporate) should help out. Seems like a double whammy if I have to go get it or pay to have it towed back - (1) cost me 784$ to get it towed there, (2) will cost me at least the same to have it towed back OR (3) going to pick it up will result in more miles on the car, missed work time and fuel.
 

parb

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If batteries are connected to each other and one has a short (or rather a very low internal resistance) then you can't really charge either of the batteries nor start the engine. If you install a dc-dc charger that acts as an isolator then you'd have one surviving battery but if that's not the starter battery then it won't matter unless you switch position between them.

This is not the most common fault. it's one of the types of faults they teach you in electrical engineering school. It's a type of a fault that is difficult to work around unless you configure the batteries isolated to each other and parallel to each other.

The challenges with getting the car into neutral, even when doing it manually with the disconnect seems concerning to me.
 
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Battery issues are the biggest killer of any new car
Any time electrical faults appear the very first port of call is to test the batter voltage and do a load test
Bit late in this instance but something that every single car owner should know
As far as I am concerned your dealer was /is useless , given location and costs they should have advised to get the batter tested buy someone local, even a roadside breakdown service/mechanics could have easily found and replaced the faulty battery
 

jucumari

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Battery issues are the biggest killer of any new car
Any time electrical faults appear the very first port of call is to test the batter voltage and do a load test
Bit late in this instance but something that every single car owner should know
As far as I am concerned your dealer was /is useless , given location and costs they should have advised to get the batter tested buy someone local, even a roadside breakdown service/mechanics could have easily found and replaced the faulty battery
Through this event I have recognized that I have little knowledge of an electrical system and how batteries operate in a vehicle. This experience has inspired me to learn some basics about this vehicle’s systems and figure out what level of service I can diagnose and treat before sending it out.
 

trobex

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So for anyone that had owned a car, a basic battery swap or charge should get us out of trouble. It seems the Ineos system is highly flawed and unless your very competent with this battery configuration... well then we have no chance do we. Very costly for a new car with a new battery... basically $2000AUD in towing costs... I would be livid.
 
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