My mistake, knowledge needed to remove the fuel sender

[alexandruast]

Hi,
I went the easy, lazy way of installing an air heater diesel pickup line in the fuel tank without dropping the tank. All good, I managed to make the required 16mm hole in the fuel sender, but when trying to fit the pipe I dropped it into the tank
In the past 16 hours I tried to pick it up using various claw/magnet methods, but unsuccessful. The thing is, I am 300Km away from home, in an underground garage, and I need to leave. I've covered the hole with a wine cork, I assume it's drive-able to the nearest elevator, where I am planning to lift the vehicle and drop the tank.
I have no ideea if the sender unit removal requires special tools or it can be done with regular tools. I've seen some tanks need a special tool to unscrew the safety ring.
Can you, please, give me some suggestions? Photo with the sender unit before drilling, and a picture taken with an endoscope with the pipe in the tank.
Why Ineos did not put an access hatch for the sender unit remains a mystery to me, given the "built for purpose" mantra.

 

[Jean Mercier]

Hi,
I went the easy, lazy way of installing an air heater diesel pickup line in the fuel tank without dropping the tank. All good, I managed to make the required 16mm hole in the fuel sender, but when trying to fit the pipe I dropped it into the tank
In the past 16 hours I tried to pick it up using various claw/magnet methods, but unsuccessful. The thing is, I am 300Km away from home, in an underground garage, and I need to leave. I've covered the hole with a wine cork, I assume it's drive-able to the nearest elevator, where I am planning to lift the vehicle and drop the tank.
I have no ideea if the sender unit removal requires special tools or it can be done with regular tools. I've seen some tanks need a special tool to unscrew the safety ring.
Can you, please, give me some suggestions? Photo with the sender unit before drilling, and a picture taken with an endoscope with the pipe in the tank.
Why Ineos did not put an access hatch for the sender unit remains a mystery to me, given the "built for purpose" mantra.

Just a suggestion: ask your dealer to send you pictures or a video of the procedure if he is willing to do it

 

[alexandruast]

Just a suggestion: ask your dealer to send you pictures or a video of the procedure if he is willing to do it

Many thanks for suggestion, the fuel ring unscrews to the left without any special tools. Unfortunately, the elevator is available tomorrow at 18:00, so we'll have to wait a bit. Good thing is that the procedure is now clear, hopefully everything will go without issues this time. Thanks a lot! Will keep a log here with the updates.

 

[McPharmer II]

If I get the problem right: how about a strong magnet (if available) and get the screw from outside the Tank and lead it to the hole?

 

[alexandruast]

If I get the problem right: how about a strong magnet (if available) and get the Screenshots from outside the Tank and lead it to the hole?

Magnets do not good, because only the threads are magnetic, the rest seems to be aluminum. I managed to pick up the pipe with claws multiple times, but cannot get it out no matter what, the only way to get it out is to pick it up with the claws by the nozzle, otherwise the hole is too small to insert anything there to hold the pipe and shift it until it reaches the nozzle. An endoscope with a claw will work wonders, but I only have them as separate items which do not fit in the hole at the same time, plus the position is super awkward.

 

[McPharmer II]

Ah, okay. Then good luck!

 

[alexandruast]

Removing the tank was a pain in the arse. Much harder than anticipated, especially for a "built for purpose" vehicle.
Despite the "official" documentation, these are the steps to properly remove the tank:

1. Remove RHS rear wheel and wheel arch pieces (wheel arch, fender, mud guard).
2. Remove rear muffler bash plate.
3. Remove the 4 muffler mounts (it's easier to just unscrew the mounts, inverted torx head required).
4. Remove the tank bash plate.
5. Remove the heat shields attached to the tank.
6. Support the tank from beneath.
7. Remove the tank mounting straps and mounting screws.
8. Lower the tank about 2-5cm.
9. Remove the rubber fuel filler hose.
10. Lower the tank an additional 5-10cm.
11. Unclip the fuel lines from the tank body.
12. Disconnect the breather hose, the conector is somewhere in the middle between the filler and the tank.
12. Disconnect the fuel lines from the sender unit (the connection and dismounting is different for each of them, do not force them, if they don't uncouple then you are not using the correct dismount combination). I found out that I could disconnect both if I remove the smaller one first, you have to lift two pins of a ring from one side and pull the ring from the other side). The larger one I forgot how I managed to get it out).
13. Disconnect the electrical plug. This one has a safety socket, you also need a combination for it to unplug, and the access is very difficult.
14. Lower the tank, you need at least 3 to 4 people for this operation is the tank is not empty, because the tank is removed by twisting it to clear the exhaust, otherwise you'll have to remove the whole exhaust and 4 sensors (lambdas and other - lambdas do not have connectors on them, are hardwired, they cannot be twisted without wrecking the cables). The tank can and should be emptied, though. We did not do that, but it was a pain.
15. Untwist the sender unit ring to left (anti-clockwise). You need a special tool for this. Already existing universal ring clamps do not fit. We made one using four steel L-shaped brackets, unfortunately it was late so no pictures available. It won't untwist by hand, DO NOT TRY TO WHACK IT with a hammer!

Mounting operation in reverse. Total time 4 hours, occasionally 2 people needed, and 3-4 people to lower/raise the tank back.

Muffler bash plate is a pain to mount back if you did touch the plate while offroading and is just a bit out of alignment. The screws should be replaced with something stronger, the torx head is soft and easily stripped.

 

[TD5-90]

Removing the tank was a pain in the arse. Much harder than anticipated, especially for a "built for purpose" vehicle....

Good work, excellent description, hats off!

Now that we see the form of the fuel tank it is pretty obvious why the fuel gauge only can give sh*& readings...

 

[Fab]

Good work, excellent description, hats off!

Now that we see the form of the fuel tank it is pretty obvious why the fuel gauge only can give sh*& readings...

It also helps understanding the readings, making it less sh*&
Thank you Alexandru.

 

[Jean Mercier]

Muffler bash plate is a pain to mount back if you did touch the plate while offroading and is just a bit out of alignment. The screws should be replaced with something stronger, the torx head is soft and easily stripped.

I had the same problem with mounting back the front bash plate, although it had only some deep scratches, and I agree for the screws.

 

[emax]

Good job

But a question due to missing language skills: What do you mean with the "sender"'?

Do you mean the outgoing fuel hose?

 

[alexandruast]

Good job

But a question due to missing language skills: What do you mean with the "sender"'?

Do you mean the outgoing fuel hose?

Fuel sender = the plastic cover thing that all the connectors and hoses are plugged into, and the fuel pump is usually attached to, and which is secured by a large ring. Also, common terminology for that unit is fuel pump, but in this case, the pump is not attached to it, the sender is just a cover.
This cover:

 

[DenisM]

Good job

But a question due to missing language skills: What do you mean with the "sender"'?

Do you mean the outgoing fuel hose?

My understanding is that "the sender" is the float device incorporating a variable resistor which "sends" a variable voltage to the fuel gauge to indicate fuel level.