Light bar and mounting

[CrazyOldMan]

I ordered the Rhino Rack cross bars and light bars from Ineos and the dealer installed them. What I really want is to mount the light bar UNDER the Rhino Rack crossbars so I can mount the ski/snowboard rack ON TOP of the crossbar (having them both mounted at the same time - ski rack above the crossbar, lightbar below). When I switch the mounting to go under for the lightbar, I can’t place the crossbar in the usual location - the light bar hits the roof. Have to move it really far forward so the lightbar can fit between the roof and crossbar. Has anyone else encountered this? If so, did you find a better lightbar option? My other option is just to switch out the lighter when I want the ski rack on.

 

[TheDocAUS]

I ordered the Rhino Rack cross bars and light bars from Ineos and the dealer installed them. What I really want is to mount the light bar UNDER the Rhino Rack crossbars so I can mount the ski/snowboard rack ON TOP of the crossbar (having them both mounted at the same time - ski rack above the crossbar, lightbar below). When I switch the mounting to go under for the lightbar, I can’t place the crossbar in the usual location - the light bar hits the roof. Have to move it really far forward so the lightbar can fit between the roof and crossbar. Has anyone else encountered this? If so, did you find a better lightbar option? My other option is just to switch out the lighter when I want the ski rack on.

The INEOS Lightbar's default install in Australia is under the roof rack. Can you post a picture of your rack and lightbar.

There must be something different with the bars.

There is a variety of brackets.

 

[CrazyOldMan]

Ah - the bracket - should have thought of that before posting. Thanks so much - you just made ski season next winter much easier (for those of us who don’t walk around upside down).

 

[sean0809]

I’m not sure why your dealer fitted the light bar on top of the front cross bar as it’s supposed to be underneath- but as you say it won’t then fit behind the safari windows on the B pillar as the depth is too narrow. The front cross bar is supposed to be fitted at the very front of the vehicle - ahead/towards the front of the safari windows (otherwise the windows won’t open, if you have them) by the A pillar, with the rear cross bar on the B pillar. I had that set up on delivery- however it was really noisy when driving (with the light bar/cross bar making a loud whistle above 50mph, even having added rubber noise-reducing strips in every gap) so I moved the light bar to the B pillar and put it on top of that cross bar (and ditched the forward cross bar).
However then you can’t put anything on the roof- as you’ve only got 1 cross bar…
So I then tried to fit the light bar back on the forward cross bar using the “43174 VA and HD LED Light Bracket“ (which is supposed to fit it flat to the cross bar and thus leaving the top of the cross bar free) however that bracket doesn’t fit the Ineos supplied light bar so don’t bother trying… (the ‘arms’ on each bracket are way too small).

I also tried fitting Rihno Rack ‘Vortex’ roof bars instead of the ones provided by INEOS, however they are not robust enough for the Grenadier and at speed resonate badly with the wind and vibrate the vehicle. Again, don’t bother trying.

I’ve now ditched the cross bars and bought a 3/4 roof rack and will fit the light bar at the front of that instead.

 

[CrazyOldMan]

Ok THAT’s depressing. No safari windows for me - joys of Irish genetics and too many days surfing as a kid in the 70’s without sunscreen. Love the look of the safari windows, but just too much time in surgery with my dermatologist and ENT!!! The dealer installed the crossbars centered on the 2 raised cross-sections on the roof - so pretty far forward but not all the way. I think a different under-mount bracket that screws into the side of the light bar might be a little tighter to the cross bar so I don’t have to move it so far forward - but without the safari window, i don’t have to worry about wind noise so much. I just want to find a good position, with light under and skis up top. Other option is to ditch the crossbars and light, admit that was a stupid option to pick, and get a spare-mounted ski rack in back, like the Fabio Gringo (which will be a pain in the keister to get ordered and sent to the US). That would piss me off so much.

 

[Sean]

Ah, but if you don’t have the safari windows then you should be fine with the forward cross bar and the light bar underneath. Mine came that way but because I had the safari windows I had to have the cross bar very far forward to still open the safari windows (hence the wind noise), which is why I later switched the light bar to be on top of the cross bar.

The fixing brackets I had attached (from the dealer, to attach the light bar to the cross bar) were these ( x 2) and it was easy swapping then over from below to above and back.

Pics attached

PS: at least I saved you buying the bracket that doesn’t fit or the vortex bars that aren’t robust enough- so not all bad news :’)

 

[CrazyOldMan]

Well, you’re awesome and I won’t hold the whole Oliver Cromwell thing against you - his extended proctology procedure in hell is fair punishment for sins that cry to heaven for vengeance. Yeah, I’ve got the same bracket, and they were easy to switch - but my dealer had the crossbar back by the B column (centered on the roof bump above the B column), and the light bar bumps back there. I’ll probably just push it forward a bit and move the cable clips. I think you were right to go to the 3/4 rack. That position just looks weird on the crossbar.

 

[CrazyOldMan]

Ah, but if you don’t have the safari windows then you should be fine with the forward cross bar and the light bar underneath. Mine came that way but because I had the safari windows I had to have the cross bar very far forward to still open the safari windows (hence the wind noise), which is why I later switched the light bar to be on top of the cross bar.

The fixing brackets I had attached (from the dealer, to attach the light bar to the cross bar) were these ( x 2) and it was easy swapping then over from below to above and back.

Pics attached

PS: at least I saved you buying the bracket that doesn’t fit or the vortex bars that aren’t robust enough- so not all bad news :’)

Ok - using my American ingenuity (‘Murika!!!), I came up with a solution that thousands of others have probably figured out - nevertheless I will take credit for it. That’s the American way. RhinoRack has a great mounting system and light bar accessories that allow me to use the stock cross-bar, mounted at the B pillar, with the light bar in FRONT of the cross-bar, with plenty of clearance underneath, and no vulnerability up top (or interference with a ski rack). Ineos would NOT tell me the manufacturer of the light bar, but the bolts that came with the new RhinoRack (picture of parts attached) work - they are SLIGHTLY too long, but if you just throw on a couple of washers as a spacer, it’s perfect

.

 

[Sean]

That’s a great solution, thank you.

 

[TheDocAUS]

If you have Rhino Rack bars or platform, remember to look at the Rhino Rack brackets for ideas.

Plus there are other brackets beyond light bars. Here are some ideas from Australia:

MOUNTS
Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform/Cross Bar mounting accessories

1. KAON roof rack accessories;
2. SVNTY Offroad roof rack accessories;
3. Rhino Rack brackets;
4. 30 Second Wing Awning brackets;
5. RacksBrax Quick Release Awning Brackets (large range of quick release brackets);
6. Pirate Camp Co brackets to mount awning on Pioneer platform or bars, example here;
7. TLR offer brackets to mount solar panels on your roofrack (Rhino, ARB and some Rhino roof bars.);
8. Razed Mounting brackets; and
9. BUSHWAKKA Mounting Brackets.

 

[CrazyOldMan]

That’s a great solution, thank you.

Sorry - one modification - since you only need 2 brackets, plus the light bar adapters, I think this is the correct base packet. You’ll still need the light bar adapters as well, per my previous comment. Use the larger set of bolts that come with the light bar adapter (to screw into the side of the light-bar), but remember to throw on just a couple of M8 size washers under the bolt head - and of course the locking washer indicated in the instructions, between the adapter and the light-bar. If you don’t add the extra washers, you won’t be able to tighten the bolt enough (it’s too long), and the light-bar will just rotate freely.

 

[CrazyOldMan]

OK, also using my American ingenuity, I figured out I’m not totally sold on my solution - at least when it comes to ski racks. I think it’s way better for the light bar, compared to the stock bracket - but the reality is any rack, whether cross-bar or full rack, makes a lot of annoying wind noise and resistance. It looks a lot better the way I have it mounted, but I just don’t need the extra noise. So I’m just going to leave the light-bar mounted on the cross bars, but take them off and put them in storage in the garage. I think for skiing this winter, I’m going to try out the Fabbri Gringo - I just bought it in Italy and am having it shipped over. It’s mounted on the spare tire, and it looks easy to pop on and off, I don’t have to worry about moving my license plate for a hitch-mounted rack (although I also have a great solution for that and having been using it when I go mountain biking), and don’t have to climb up to the roof to get my skis. When I really NEED the light-bar for off-roading or camping when it’s dark, then I can put the cross-bars back on and plug it in.

 

[AWo]

In general I do not consider high beam light on the roof as the best possible solution. Why?

1. During dusty, rainy or foggy conditions your light on the roof is useless
2. When driving (bad) tracks / corrugated dirt roads at a certain speed (sometime you must drive them at 60, 70 or more km/h) transverse ruts etc. are not as good visible as they should
3. If the light is mounted too far in the front, your windscreen and hood will reflect light into your eyes and you loose your night vision capability. Every piece of dirt, insects etc. will illuminate.
However, in this example having it at the B pillar should be fine, leaving me with points 1 and 2.

The best place for high beam is below the hood. I would place working lights with a broad light patterns on the roof for handling the winch and slow heavy off road driving.

AWo

 

[Tazzieman]

In general I do not consider high beam light on the roof as the best possible solution. Why?

1. During dusty, rainy or foggy conditions your light on the roof is useless
2. When driving (bad) tracks / corrugated dirt roads at a certain speed (sometime you must drive them at 60, 70 or more km/h) transverse ruts etc. are not as good visible as they should
3. If the light is mounted too far in the front, your windscreen and hood will reflect light into your eyes and you loose your night vision capability. Every piece of dirt, insects etc. will illuminate.
However, in this exampel having it at the B pillar should be fine, leaving me with points 1 and 2.

The best place for high beam is below the hood. I would place working lights with a broad light patterns at the roof for handling the winch and slow heavy off road driving.

AWo

I think we are best waiting for an aftermarket drop in solution for the standard auxiliary lights.

 

[AWo]

That will only come, if this is a standard size or many more Grenadiers will be sold (or there will be an adapter for a standard size which might nearly fit).

Does anyone know which size and mounting scheme the auxiliary light have?

Ahh, something in additon...due to the size of the original auxiliary lights and the space they are mounted in, do not expect to much light performance. LED-Light performance is related to heat and that is related to cooling surface. More heat requires more surface and that require more space. In other words, there will be a limit for the performance possible with the space given or you relinquish in regards of the life time of the light.

Cheers
AWo

 

[CrazyOldMan]

In general I do not consider high beam light on the roof as the best possible solution. Why?

1. During dusty, rainy or foggy conditions your light on the roof is useless
2. When driving (bad) tracks / corrugated dirt roads at a certain speed (sometime you must drive them at 60, 70 or more km/h) transverse ruts etc. are not as good visible as they should
3. If the light is mounted too far in the front, your windscreen and hood will reflect light into your eyes and you loose your night vision capability. Every piece of dirt, insects etc. will illuminate.
However, in this exampel having it at the B pillar should be fine, leaving me with points 1 and 2.

The best place for high beam is below the hood. I would place working lights with a broad light patterns at the roof for handling the winch and slow heavy off road driving.

AWo

Yes, I think you’re right. I got the Rhino-Rack crossbars in my config for skiing, and added the LED bar because “why not” but it was a stupid indulgence. The rest of my config was very purposeful, but that was just a “whatever” selection. At the end of the day, I dislike the wind noise at speed, would prefer a spare-mounted ski rack in back, if possible (the Grenadier is already quite high), and the idea of a full rack and tent at this stage of life is about as attractive as having the Viet Cong shove bamboo under my fingernails. My version of an outdoor adventure involves matching wits with trout for the day (my wife says this is appropriate since the fish and I are intellectually on the same level) or putting in a good day of running away from wolves while out snowshoeing, but then there had better be a decent lodge with a well stocked bar, extra feather pillows, and if the kitchen sends out my steak other than à point, there will be hell to pay. So maybe the cross bars and LED bar just need to go.

 

[Metricshifter]

That will only come, if this is a standard size or many more Grenadiers will be sold (or there will be an adapter for a standard size which might nearly fit).

Does anyone know which size and mounting scheme the auxiliary light have?

Ahh, something in additon...due to the size of the original auxiliary lights and the space they are mounted in, do not expect to much light performance. LED-Light performance is related to heat and that is related to cooling surface. More heat requires more surface and that require more space. In other words, there will be a limit for the performance possible with the space given or you relinquish in regards of the life time of the light.

Cheers
AWo

there is a thread on the forum about replacement auxiliary lights, https://www.theineosforum.com/threa...t-upgrade-without-any-cutting.12415008/page-5 and agile offroad offer Baja Designs XL-R-80 LEDs - https://agileoffroad.com/product/baja-designs-off-road-lights-for-ineos-grenadier-by-agile-offroad/

 

[CrazyOldMan]

Yes, I think you’re right. I got the Rhino-Rack crossbars in my config for skiing, and added the LED bar because “why not” but it was a stupid indulgence. The rest of my config was very purposeful, but that was just a “whatever” selection. At the end of the day, I dislike the wind noise at speed, would prefer a spare-mounted ski rack in back, if possible (the Grenadier is already quite high), and the idea of a full rack and tent at this stage of life is about as attractive as having the Viet Cong shove bamboo under my fingernails. My version of an outdoor adventure involves matching wits with trout for the day (my wife says this is appropriate since the fish and I are intellectually on the same level) or putting in a good day of running away from wolves while out snowshoeing, but then there had better be a decent lodge with a well stocked bar, extra feather pillows, and if the kitchen sends out my steak other than à point, there will be hell to pay. So maybe the cross bars and LED bar just need to go.

So update - the Fabbri Gringo, purchased from a distributor in Italy - shipping almost cost me as much as the rack. Fits 4 pair of skis, you can buy an adapter for snowboards or bikes, it goes on in about 60 seconds and locks to secure your gear. Thank goodness it didn’t actually say “Gringo” on it - that would definitely be asking for trouble. I just took off the LED bar and Rhino-Rack crossbars and put them away. Not sure when I will actually have occasion to use them - since I have a hitch-mounted Thule bike rack and spare-mounted ski rack. For camp lights, I’ll find something to put off the side.

NB - for the stock 265/70/17 K02’s, the Gringo needs the extra 300mm extension cables, or they won’t be long enough