Esc + ABS + Diff locks + Airbag warning after dual battery installation

[nasmo]

Hello all!

Be successfully managed to install the dual battery setup and we got 100ah lithium lipro4 installed with a redarc system. Now the top plug and play electrical outlets are being fed directly from the second battery.

I'm happy to also connect the back outlet directly to the second battery so now both of my fridges are draining the lithium battery. No issues whatsoever!

However right after taking off from a recent road trip in the desert and going on to gravel/road I suddenly faced with a very weird problem. ABS+ESC warning lights are on.

Keep in mind that I have done zero cutting or rewiring of the cables and I made sure to stay on the safe side during the dual battery setup as I didn't want to mess up the warranty. My car was running perfectly without any issues untiltoday!

Was my dual battery setup and this issue related? They just happened right after each other, I just hope its a coincidence!

The dealership did a check and all fuses are good and there is no harness or obstruction anywhere in the wheels. They continued to perform 3-5 hard resets and all of them come back with the same errors. They do clear however just simply driving for less than a minute you hear the doors lock (safety) and the errors show up.

Here is an attachment of the error codes.

Edit1: We checked the ABS system, it seems fine no issue everything is intact.
Edit2: The Head unit is fine also no issues here.
Edit3: The Difflocks are working as well, we replaced the oil while at it:
Edit4: Break pads have been replaced, as the sensor was very close, so might as well change all 4.
Edit5: Every fuse in the car (Main Fuse box + Cockpit fuse box) are OK, nothing burnt!
Edit6: The Difflocks will never engage, you are given the "Check for surrounding conditions" but they will never engage.

What seems to be the problem

 

[Skydance]

Are you aware of the following procedure when resetting the battery. I would do a reset by disconnecting the negative after the vehicle is in sleep mode. Before doing so check all ground connections. Go for a drive, some warnings light may come on but should eventually go away after a couple of starts. If problem still persists then dealers may need to reset software.

 

[nasmo]

Quick update: when car is switched off and goes into sleep mode and then it's switched on, I can now drive over 78 kmph/50 mph.

If I attempt to switch on diff locks or ESC it will give an error and I can only do those speeds.

Also cruise control will not work in all the cases mentioned

 

[nasmo]

Are you aware of the following procedure when resetting the battery. I would do a reset by disconnecting the negative after the vehicle is in sleep mode. Before doing so check all ground connections. Go for a drive, some warnings light may come on but should eventually go away after a couple of starts. If problem still persists then dealers may need to reset software.


View attachment 7882719

Yes I'm aware of that and my electrician did not follow this. The dealership attempted to do a hard reset 4-5 times but to no avail.

 

[TD5-90]

Quick update: when car is switched off and goes into sleep mode and then it's switched on, I can now drive over 78 kmph/50 mph.

If I attempt to switch on diff locks or ESC it will give an error and I can only do those speeds.

Also cruise control will not work in all the cases mentioned

The (german 2023) owner's manual says that driving with axle diffs locked is only supported up to 70kmph. It also says that ESC does not work (it _cannot_ work for technical reasons btw...) if axle diff(s) are locked.
So, maybe there isn't a malfunction?

 

[nasmo]

The (german 2023) owner's manual says that driving with axle diffs locked is only supported up to 70kmph. It also says that ESC does not work (it _cannot_ work for technical reasons btw...) if axle diff(s) are locked.
So, maybe there isn't a malfunction?

Yes but my diff locks wouldn't engage , I get an error. They start flashing amber and I am warned to check for conditions before locking. Except all conditions are good there shouldn't be a reason for diff locks not to engage.

Then my car suddenly is limited to 78 kmph and I need to shut off the car and let it sleep for me to enjoy higher speeds.

 

[TD5-90]

Yes but my diff locks wouldn't engage , I get an error. They start flashing amber and I am warned to check for conditions before locking. Except all conditions are good there shouldn't be a reason for diff locks not to engage.

Then my car suddenly is limited to 78 kmph and I need to shut off the car and let it sleep for me to enjoy higher speeds.

At what speed are you driving when trying to engage the difflock(s)? According to the manual, you have to

• have center diff LOW & locked,
• be slower than 15kmph,
• accelerator not more than 40%,
• ESC not active at the moment you engage the diff lock(s)

Flashing means the lock(s) try to engage. Usually, after a couple of wheel revvs they engage.

 

[nasmo]

At what speed are you driving when trying to engage the difflock(s)? According to the manual, you have to

• have center diff LOW & locked,
• be slower than 15kmph,
• accelerator not more than 40%,
• ESC not active at the moment you engage the diff lock(s)

Flashing means the lock(s) try to engage. Usually, after a couple of wheel revvs they engage.

It only flashes when car is on power not ignited.

When in the setting you mentioned and I attempt to engage it it won't even flash ! I get check locking conditions.

Then my speed is locked to 78 kmph until I put my car to sleep and switch it back on

 

[nasmo]

At what speed are you driving when trying to engage the difflock(s)? According to the manual, you have to

• have center diff LOW & locked,
• be slower than 15kmph,
• accelerator not more than 40%,
• ESC not active at the moment you engage the diff lock(s)

Flashing means the lock(s) try to engage. Usually, after a couple of wheel revvs they engage.

Any attempt to set the diff locks will lock me into 78 kmph speed limit

 

[ryket]

I'm not an electrician but as a basic troubleshooting step... have you tried disconnecting the second battery & charger and making sure your primary battery is fully charged? If the problem goes away then you know where the fault is, if not then maybe something was damaged or misconfigured during installation.

 

[nasmo]

I'm not an electrician but as a basic troubleshooting step... have you tried disconnecting the second battery & charger and making sure your primary battery is fully charged? If the problem goes away then you know where the fault is, if not then maybe something was damaged or misconfigured during installation.

Hello there .

Yes we have tried that as well . The main battery is working as is charging and discharging properly without any issues. The secondary battery is also working as it should.

The dual battery system is wired well but I am currently at the dealership and they are having hell clearing the codes because they don't want to clear

 

[nasmo]

A little update 2:48 Pm +3GMT

We successfully cleared all codes for the first.

Driving the car however for 1 min brought back the ABS and ESC errors to the dashboard, we are currently working on steering calibration

 

[nasmo]

update 8:00 PM +3 GMT

We have disconnected the entire auxilary battery and all its connections. However still the ABS/ESC shows up. Evern after resetting (close to 20 times hard resets).

There is a signaling issue and god knows where it is being caused! The ineos tablet reading the codes is the worst ever, it doesn't even provide you with priorities or what to look at. Gives you nothing at all. There isn't even a service guide!

 

[landmannnn]

update 8:00 PM +3 GMT

We have disconnected the entire auxilary battery and all its connections. However still the ABS/ESC shows up. Evern after resetting (close to 20 times hard resets).

There is a signaling issue and god knows where it is being caused! The ineos tablet reading the codes is the worst ever, it doesn't even provide you with priorities or what to look at. Gives you nothing at all. There isn't even a service guide!

Ineos tablet? Is that a dealer thing?

 

[ryket]

My (amateur) guess is that you have either a poor ground connection or an electrical short that is causing data loss on the CAN bus.

I would check every connection and wire that got touched during the installation, making sure that connections are tight and the insulation isn't cut or damaged.

If you're only getting ABS and ESC errors now, then this narrows it down to an issue getting readings from the wheel sensors.

 

[nasmo]

Ineos tablet? Is that a dealer thing?

Yeah its the OBD reader with ineos' gateway. You actually need to be connected online to be able to pull the diagnostics tab!

 

[nasmo]

My (amateur) guess is that you have either a poor ground connection or an electrical short that is causing data loss on the CAN bus.

I would check every connection and wire that got touched during the installation, making sure that connections are tight and the insulation isn't cut or damaged.

If you're only getting ABS and ESC errors now, then this narrows it down to an issue getting readings from the wheel sensors.

The thing is, we disconnected everything else in the car that was done during the auxilary battery setup. We simply returned things to its stock/oem form.

Yet we are still unable to permanently clear/purge those error codes. Funny thing though, every fuse in the car is well! not a short anywhere.

It just happened that these errors only came up AFTER the auxiliary battery was installed. Was it a coincidence? or a real issue with the ABS non related to my installation? thats the million dollar question right here

 

[Tinerfeño]

We successfully cleared all codes for the first.

Clearing the codes is not important. They just give you clue where the fault is.
Do you have a list of the codes?

 

[nasmo]

Clearing the codes is not important. They just give you clue where the fault is.
Do you have a list of the codes?

I was able to capture the codes with my phone. Here they are.

 

[Tinerfeño]

Can't see any clear signs of missing power or ground faults.

Lots of communication/CAN faults which points towards CAN wiring problem because there is only a partial problem in the network. CAN is double wired and at least Land Rover uses yellow main color + indication color for CAN+ and CAN-. I would probably search for a pinched or cut wires at the area where work has been done.